Yikes. No offense but that is way too bright and messes up how GZ looks. Again just my opinion.

Agreed that’s why my other brand lights are set far lower than most people. The way we use them is to add additional lighting to brighten things up just a little not to add floodlighting as so many call it.

It used right I think every game benefits from lighting like this.

Once I get my set I’ll be happy to post a pic of some real man lighting not this blinded by the light silliness

All jokes aside if super bright is what people want more power to them. If you want dark and dreary as in no extra lighting go for it. I have nothing against either camp. As I have gotten older and exclusively play in a room with the lights off I much prefer the additional lighting the the PS provide. I can openly admit I was a huge hater for a long time but I have come to realize that they are important to us and thus we use them. Glad to have an alternative that doesn’t break the bank.

I get the feeling that the Pro version will be more like my neos and what I will want. I have yet to add lights to my GZ because the GI does so much changing in that game that always on PS lights would ruin it. Hope your pros give us what we want/need.

Thx

This is the reason I've gone mostly back to strategically adding spotlights on my games vs stadium style lights, it allows you to maintain the atmosphere of the game a lot better. For example on my IMDN the spots do an amazing job of "lighting the stage". Totally depends on the game though, not all benefit as much and those do well with the stadium lights.

Agreed, so easy to color-wash the whole playfield. However, I will say that when I added a slight blue-tint to my DIY lights on MET it was a life-changing experience how it made the PF art pop. So yeah, totally game dependent.

pinlights so you may have covered this but is there a 50/50 chance I’ll have to fix/solder my new gi module when I receive the lights? And also do they go out of whack and I need to reconfigure them every time the power goes out? THX

Thanks for your quick reply - that all sounds like awesome sauce!

My set arrived today thank you and it will be installed tomorrow
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pinlights My sets arrived today, thanks for the fast shipping. Install was really straightforward and simple. I want to say that the customer service you receive is above and beyond. This product fills a need for dark games or games you want more lighting effects in for a reasonable/competitive price. If you want something to brighten up your playfield and have flash interaction, this product is for you. I will say that the low profile metal mounts are a game changer and a must have item no matter which brand of lighting you go with. I have both brands of lights and use the metal mounts for both because I didn’t want to apply the magnet strip adhesive to my games art blades. If you are on the fence on these lights, I would recommend jumping in, you won’t be disappointed. I am also waiting on the next version that integrates more light and flasher options. Here are my unfiltered pictures of my CSI with and without the Pinlights.

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If you purchase this set now, are you out of luck for upgrade with more color options?

I believe that's a Pro version that they are going to release in the near future.

A+ on making the lights unplug from the harness instead of just leaving them in the playfield or dangling over the cabinet.

I have the other brand on my Stargate, though they look great, for the price, I'm fairly non-plussed. You set out to solve the quality of life problems which resonates to this user!

I got my low profile mounts a couple days ago. I would have bought the full kit from Pinlights, but I had already bought (but not yet installed) a set of "the competition" a few days before the Pinlights announcement with the big TPF discount (which was still outrageously expensive). I opted to use the low profile mount instead of the magnetic strips that the others came with. Installation of these was very simple on my Fish Tales, and the light strips cling to the metal just as well as they do to the magnetic strips. It's a little tricky to get the metal mounts under the glass channel, but once you get it started the rest of the strip just slides under there. I had no need to use the provided adhesive... they are a very nice snug friction fit. The beauty of these is that there is no "stripe" between the bottom of the glass channel and the top of the magnetic strip. With the others, I've ALWAYS ended up with a little bit of visible mirror blade or art blade between the bottom of the glass and the strip... with these that is totally eliminated.

I highly recommend these low profile metal mounts, whether to be used with Pinlights or another brand of light kit.

lol…. Your next move is to create 4 for sale ads with forums enabled, and then make sure at least one of those is on the front page of the forum 24/7.

Dam that Met looks awesome......

Sorry but the image on the right is not bright enough I can't see anything can you turn it up in photoshop please?

Also that image on the left is perfect exactly as the designer intended you shouldn't change a thing.

Playing both sides of the argument its a conspiracy ya know.

I have been reading this thread from day one and I have to say that your posts read like you are a real class act. Nobody should have any qualms about purchasing from you.

I wish you all the luck in the world with this and future products.

Regards,

Roger

Need some tech help. Got my lights today and have them installed. Cannot get them connected in the app. Also should the lights be on even without the app connection as mine are not.

Board does have all 3 lights lit up on it.

Hey there! So we sent out a service bulletin to certain customers indicating a batch of cables from our fabricator where the molex wire contact wasn't crimped down all the way. The insulation was crimped so there wasn't a risk of the cable coming loose, just the connection being flaky. We sent out replacement harnesses to everyone, though everyone may not be affected. If you want, you can just punch down the two contacts in the white molex connector on the GI/flasher sensor cables. An email should've been sent with a tracking number either last night or earlier this morning.

I have a feeling those new cables will help your GI situation. If the GI is off, the light bars sync to it by default.

When you open the app and click "Add Game", are you not seeing the Pinlights Classic device show up? The phone should've prompted you for bluetooth permission so it could locate the device and switch it over to your wifi.

If you may have entered your wifi password incorrectly and it didn't connect, just hold the "NUKE" button down for 5 seconds and try adding the game again. That'll reset the board including the saved (possibly wrong) wifi password.

Hope this helps! If not, happy to walk it through by phone tomorrow.

-- Jimmy

Needed both nuke button and toggle on the connector. Working now

It was also some user error with the app.

Now to fiddle with them.

FYI the Pinlights classics do not work for STTNG. They are too wide and hit the launch wireform on the right. Perhaps the narrower pros or the other brand neo ones would fit.

Yeah I can help with that. I need to probably pop a neo strip out of another game and see if that fits. There is very little room on that right side of STTNG due to that launcher wireform. I mean I have the classic strip in the game but it pops up a little due to the pressure of side wall and wireform pushing on it. It is solely from the width of the LED channels.

With respect to the app I think that would be a good change. I think what happened last night was exactly what you said it did not connect due the password and then I had no way of knowing that as just said no game found. The other issue I had (user issue) is that because you use a database for the game name I was not getting past that stage either. I was trying to name the game what I wanted like the other app allows. Meaning I was calling it STTNG and it wouldn't accept that as it wants to assign the game itself. Once I realized that and put in Star Trek it populated all the titles and I could pick my game - again user error.

Working with the lights/app I have noticed that they have a very purple hue to them (or seem to). Granted STTNG has a lot of purple but I cannot seem to get the look I am going for without it seeming overly purple. Part of it is I am just used to the color wheel/circle of the other app is all. I am sure I will find a happy medium.

The additional metal brackets are really nice. Things are really tight in the game so they aren't always playing nice when lifting the playfield (they have pulled out twice now - well one side that is). Overall I like the metal bracket idea better than the stick on magnets just need them to push in a tad further into the glass channel for this game.

Pro version - correct me if I am wrong here please. These will be narrower, more lights??, and interactive with the GI (i.e. if your GI goes red they go red like GZ etc) - right?

Top pic is lights on bottom is lights off. I had not adjusted any settings on the strips in this pic. As you can see very purple look to the lights and too bright IMHO to start. I have adjusted them way down at this point but did not get a pic of that. For the way I use lighting I just like a little additional lighting to see the playfield better. I am not a floodlight type so my results will not be like or others or what these lights can "fully" do.

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Exactly I want some additional light but not overdone.

On the purple tint - adjust GI flasher mix -- does this work at all if I do not have the GI flasher connection hooked up? I don't like the UV flash on the other brand at all and basically never hook it up (its hooked for Frank on MBR and that is it - it was fitting there). Should I connect this up somewhere?

Yeah, I think there are a couple instances where the UV flash looks cool, but so many places it seems so out of place.

This is exactly why I have my fingers crossed for the "basic" version where it's just lighting with no flash inputs.

You should put that in your marketing. Sounds so much better than UV Glow (yeah not yours I know)

At least its honest.

Is there instructions sheet for the kit install that we can download and read?

Are you planning a version that taps power from the machine instead of requiring a separate 12v plug? I prefer not to use the service plug for a bunch of reasons, including that I use it while I'm servicing the game.

Great video, nice simple and clean install.

I have Stern, Williams, and JJP Games. I was going to start with WOZ because really needs light.

Your solution looks good, so I will live with the the 12v plug. I'll probably run it outside of the machine to an outlet.

Just put in an order and am excited to install them.

Pictures don’t do these any justice, these things look amazing, especially in metallica when you’re frying the little bastard.

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Got mine in last night. Here's the before and after in an unlit room. This is initial setting. I didn't do any adjusting yet.
I need to get a new playfield. Most of the inserts have the clear coating coming off of them and the mansion has the same and a previous owner put mylar over it to prevent more wear. It feels like some of the inserts have raised up to increase the wear. It works for now.
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This is not a rant, just my experience of the install. I really like how it lights up the pf and the price is much better than the competition. It makes me want to play the game more now that I can see more. I know there's a learning curve to any new product or design. I'm very happy with this.

The TAF install was pretty straight forward except that I have the original pf hinges (big PITA). The pf does not slide, only hinges. I used the prop and reached over the back from the topside to install the wire keeps on the back of the pf and then reached from underneath to feed. I installed the wire in the keeps first and then stuck them on the back. This helped so I didn't have to fight the limited room that you have to work with. I bought the metal rails and didn't unpeel the adhesive strip. It's a little loose, but it doesn't come out and the pf glass might tighten it up once in.

The wires.... I read the email and looked at the wire crimps. The ones I received had the wire insulator crimped where only the wire should be, so no connectivity to the terminal. Also not a complete crimp. I folded the wire strands back and crimped them in and they work.

Connection... I believe it is because I have an older phone. I downloaded the app but my phone would not pick up the game. I tried messing with the blue tooth settings to no avail. My brothers phone worked fine and paired with the game. After he did the update (.11) mine then picked up the game and all is well.
My thought is that if you have an older phone and the update has not been done, it won't detect it. (I'm not the most techy guy either). I didn't try pushing the nuke button.

I will see which of the games I have will benefit from this. It won't be very hard to move this from game to game and see what game needs this, but I'm sure I'll be buying more.

Have you had any power overflow errors when trying to hook flashers to different triggers? This has been an issue for me with other products. Also, nice to see that a local is making these.