Appreciate hearing your experience! I'll give it another shot and see what happens/

No problem - if you need other pictures, just let me know.

Good luck.

I was able to remove after some effort trying to get it lifted enough to remove. Thanks!

Anyone know if this backboard mod can be purchased somewhere still?

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1226-game-room-info-shop/04277-nba-fastbreak-backboard-mod

Contact taylor34 as he made them.

Thanks! I shot him a quick message and he said he doesn't have any of these backboards available and may or may not make more in the future.

If anyone has one of these backboard mods for the shot clock and doesn't need it or want it anymore, I'd be interested in buying it off of you. Lemme know. Thanks.

Are PIN2DMD colorization files done and available for NBA Fastbreak? Who has them and how do I get (or purchase) a set? I don't see mention of it on the VPUniverse forum.

I literally just got Fastbreak color pin2dmd files from president on vpu yesterday. Contact him for files

https://vpuniverse.com/forums/topic/6749-nba-fastbreak-wip

What's better PIN2DMD or ColorDMD?

ColorDMD is better in every category except price.

Actually, it’s a taller unit too and I’m not sure how well that would fit under the Fastbreak backbox insert game. Seems like it would make an already challenging translite to get out even more difficult.

I went with colordmd LED not LCD on this game, fits perfectly

I'd have to disagree as you can also color your own files with the editor and technically you can just build the unit if thats your thing. You can customize games that don't have color dmd available and you can also retheme dmd games this way. Obviously this won't be for everybody but nice for those who want to create content or make a custom pin. I am into virtual pinball so I was quite comfortable with pin2dmd by the time I started collecting. That's not to say colordmd isn't great too just different strokes.

I have a pin2dmd that doesn’t have a flash card. Are you able to help me get it working?

The fastbreak backbox tub is the same size as any other wpc95 tub. The "backbox game" just adds a flipper mech to the depth on the back of the tub and doesn't interfere with anything. Either LCD or LED ColorDMD would be fine. Agree on better in every category statement. So true.

Sure send me a pm when you are ready to give it a go

I got a new hoops ramp as my basket was pretty cracked up. I need to remove the hoop protector as well as moving over the reed switches that are underneath. I understand I need to drill out the rivets, just not sure what the best way to do that is? Not looking to mangle my existing ramp as it's still useable and a decent spare.

Oh, and I would then need to rivet back in the reed switches to the new ramp. What size rivets does this take and where do I get them from? The hoop protector came with tiny nuts I can use to reinstall it if I can't figure the rivets out for that portion.

As long as you use a sharp bit, the rivets will come right out. As for the reinstall, the kit comes with nice Allen screws, I didn't bother riveting it, you will never notice. If you really want to rivet it back on, there is a pinball press rivet kit you can buy, I forgot where I got it, but with a little practice it's not too hard.
But you will need some kinda hard bench mounted vise to hammer on.

Did you get tiny screws for the reed switches too? I didn't see those in there, but maybe I missed them amongst all the packaging peanuts...

Another option is to replace the existing MRS with one of our ramp MRS - which are smaller/lighter and simply adhere to the ramp....plug/play...

Matt

You have a product page with info and prices?

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/mampm-creations-mrs-catalog

Shoot me PM to order.... We support the legacy MRS'... As in your NBAFB.... And make new versions.....

Matt

Hey NBA Fans,

I came across a problem I cannot solve. So I have 2 NBA FBs linked up. I decided to do a quick shop job on them both this weekend. After which, I played a few games on each.

I noticed that it takes a different number of Jet Bumper hits to activate the Power Point modes for each pin. For example, one of them only needs 20 to start Hook Shot, while the other one takes 40 bumper hits. So I went into their respective menus to see if I could set them on the same. Easiest thing to do was set them both on Easy Preset and see what happens. But even after both were set on the same preset, the number of bumper hits were still different.

I looked at the manual and here is what it says:

"ln order to compensate for game-to-game variation in Jet Bumper response, the award levels are based on a percentage of the average number of Jet Bumper hits made per game played. The minimum average number of Jet Bumper hits is five. The first Power Points award is always given at 1% of the average number of Jet Bumper hits per game. All Power Points awards following the first are based on a percentage of the average number of Jet Bumper hits per game and the difficulty adjustment. The start of Power Hoops modes are based on a percentage of the average number of Jet Bumper hits per game and the difficulty adjustment. "

So does this mean if I have longer games on one of them (and hence more pop bumper hits) it will take longer to move through the Power Point modes? I feel like I should have the ability to adjust it. I have no idea how this will affect head 2 head game play.

I did consider doing a factory reset to bring the number back down to 5, but then I would lose all my rings/scores. Plus eventually it will get to the same point as it is now as I tend to favor one of them more than the other.

Any advice?

Just a thought but if I'm reading that right, the "variation in Jet Bumper resposne" jumps out at me. Since you have two games I would expect the games to be out of sync if (probably) even one of the pop switches was less sensitive than the other game. Maybe pull the glass on both games and roll a ball around in the pops and compare the reaction. Another thing, are all of the wafers not chipped? A chipped wafer can reduce switch sensitivity. Again just a thought.

Go to setting. Look for easy medium or as any other settings. Is in setting an adjustment. Goid luck.

Yes. You are 100% correct. One of the pins had less sensitive pop switches than the other (which I have now corrected)

The weird thing is the less sensitive pop switch pin is the one I need more hits on. I think that can be explained by the fact that is the pin I play all my solo games on.

I really wish there was an easy way to reset them to be the same without losing all my rings.

I installed the presets to be the same and that didn't work. I also can't find a setting specifically for the pop bumpers/power points.

Is in difficulty I guess. I’ll look at tomorrow and let you know

I figured I'd just give an update that I finally was able to ship out my ramp diverter to Mantis Amusements last week and they are currently working on getting the dimensions so we'll have some reproductions available since those seem to be pretty much unavailable anywhere.

Take one for the team. Much appreciated.

Is there an adjustment / settings adjustment for the shot blocker that moves back and forth?

Mine doesn’t move far enough to the right to block a jump shot from the right saucer. It’s needs to travel about a 1/4” farther.

When the defender is moving into that fourth position, where on the slotted arc in the playfield is the stem of that mechanism? All the way to the far end of the arc? Room to spare? How does it compare to the position of the same things for the first shooter spot?

Im inclined to think the defender plastic or metal flap is out of adjustment more so than there needs to be an adjustment underneath.

It’s a little to left from the players perspective.

You make a great point, tho… it could just be off center from a physical perspective.

I’ll take a closer look

Actually, one question of my own for the group after talking about that shooter 4 position...

I put a new hoops ramp in from Starship Fantasy recently. It is thicker, as most of you know, and fit reasonably well, but not perfectly. One of the angles or positions that seems to have changed is how the tip of that clear plastic piece that gets attached on top of the right side of the basket loop is now in the path of the shooter 4 shots. It's not every single time, but say half of the shots from shooter 4 hit that plastic piece and careen off the rim of the basket and fall down. Then other times it shoots it straight into the basket no problem. So it feels inconsistent, but the position of that plastic isn't changing. More like how the ball is sitting down in the saucer and subsequently how squarely the plunger tip hits the ball. I'm not honestly sure if it's the less force hit that careens away or the more force hit that does.

Anyone experience this before? What was your solution?

I'd sure like to know the anwer.

Take a pic of what you are speaking of.
I have had the new hoop ramp for what is likely 2 years now (I think).
Shooter 4 on my pin pretty much never misses.
And while i guess it could happen and i wouldn't know, i find that #4 is the least likely shooter to randomly have the ball goto and get an automatic shot, so many times when i get "in the paint", by default i pass it to shooter 4 so i'm usually paying attention to what happens.

now im curious as well, i just bought new ramps at expo from them, but was going to wait until this summer to install.

I'll take some pics and try to label them a little as to what I mean. I never looked at how that geometry was prior because it never missed from there. Oddly enough, when I got my game last November, it was shooter #1 that wouldn't always work. Used to come up short some of the time. I replaced the coil sleeve and double checked tightness and alignment on all the bolts and screws and brackets when putting it all back together after a topside tear down and it's never missed a single time since then.

This shooter #4 inconsistency I think is more likely related to something underneath affecting how the plungers are hitting the ball. Need to likely put it into test mode and just try to shoot the ball repeatedly and see if I can notice a pattern.

Larry... thanks for chiming in. Ramps went in fairly well. Centre ramp was good and I got the two front protectors swapped over and re-riveted back in place. I did want to mention to you at some point that the two entrance protectors you provided as new and already installed on the hoops ramp were not quite right. The leftside one had too small of a hole on the end of that metal piece to allow the screw to go through it and into the post. I drilled it out slightly bigger and that's fine now. The rightside one I still don't have secured down properly as it was not long enough to reach the post on that side. It's not too short by much, maybe a 1/4" or so, but it just won't get there unless you put some kind of serious force on it and I just don't want to do that. I will likely reuse the protector from my old ramp, but to do that I need to take out the new ramp again and I didn't notice this discrepancy until it was already all installed and I wasn't enthusiastic about undoing everything I just did to fix it. I will in the near future though.

No two piballs, even the same title, are never the same. Remember they drilled holes by hand back then. I need to know if others are experiencing this problem or not. If they are, then I need to fix it.

Regarding the shooter 4 misses, I went underneath today and double checked the coil and sleeve and bracket and spring and plunger. It all looked pretty much fine and as expected.

Next thing I'm going to swap back to original is just the replacement round plastic piece that mounts on top of the rightside of that hoop loop. The ball hits the corner of it when it misses and I'm wondering if the extra thickness of it or lesser flexibility is what is causing the ball to careen off instead of just hitting and then falling into the basket.

I already had this type of problem but with the shooter 3, what solved my problem was putting a washer where the coil is fixed, this leaves the coil slightly inclined, the shooter works better this way, at least in my case, tomorrow I will take photos to make it easier to understand

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/pin2dmd-problems-on-an-nba-fastbreak

I created a thread looking for help with a PIN2DMD display if any of you have ideas to share.

I took the photos I mentioned in the previous comment, in one of them I marked in purple where the washer goes, note that the plunger is slightly off center of the rubber, this solved my problem with the shooter 3

IMG_20240329_093011352_HDR (resized).jpg

IMG_20240329_093011352_HDR~2 (resized).jpg

Hello everyone, the shot clock on my Fastbreak every time it turns on remains static at number 24, could this be a bug in the rom? I've already noticed some sound bugs in this version I'm using (2.1)

How does the connector on the shot clock itself look? Connector lined up correctly with the pins? Not off by one from one side or the other?

I already checked the connector, it's perfect
I also installed a power drive from another machine of mine and it didn't solve the problem

Is the shot clock in the features adjustment menu? Like where you can disable it? Maybe it's not enabled. Not sure if that's possible. I don't have the manual in front of me at the moment.

I just checked here and the only setting in relation to the shot clock in the feature adjustment menu is the difficulty level, in the test menu there is nothing related to the shot clock

Stuck on Kobe's follow up uniform number. Spooky.

https://www.cbssports.com/nba/news/why-kobe-bryant-changed-jersey-numbers-and-what-no-8-and-no-24-meant-to-the-nba-legend/