Meteor Club - "We will let you know when the danger is past" | All clubs (...members only!)

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#79 8 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Quoted from Coyote:
Okay, question - since work is real slow, I threw together a board outline. But figured I'd ask ya'll - if you're interested, what you'd prefer:
(1) A single board for the three rockets, or a board that only handles one row of the rockets. (The latter, one extra board will get you the spinner lights, as well..!)
.. and ..
(2) How to connect the wires? I can either: (1) make simple solder pads for each wire, (2) give each connection a single-pin molex header, or (3) A single molex header for the whole board? (1 would require soldering wires in. 2 would require crimping on a header. 1 & 2 would require no wire cuts - meaning you could jump back to the old style easily. 3 would require trimming wires and crimping on a header.)
--Me.

A PCB for the rocket lamps would be nice. I would prefer a header pin type connection. It would involve adding wires and crimping but I think it would look better when done. Only neg I see is that the PCB would have wedge base twist in sockets? Those are typically 555 lamps and they do run hotter than #44 lamps.

Going back to the beginning of when you posted pics of your transformer, It looks like the transformer was replaced with a different one. It should be stamped 16B on the top. This is where you need to start, check voltages at the rectifier board's test points and then the solenoid driver test points. The game will never boot if it doesn't get 5V and 12V. It also needs the coil voltage for the 7th flash. If the sound board is working, the game will chime with every flash of the MPU, the flicker doesn't chime and is very quick blink og the LED.

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#81 8 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Quoted from Coyote:
Yeah, that's one of the downsides. There are no 'screw-in' bayonet bases. There are a couple solder-in #44 bases, however, that would mean that: (1) Longer standoffs are used, which are harder to find unfortunately, and (2) when a bulb goes, you'd have to remove the whole thing. So, I went with the same ones used on WPC games, so that they'd be interchangeable.

Well, I made progress since then. My MPU is a little strange in the fact that the first 'flicker' isn't a 'flicker'. It's more of a 1.5 to 2 second fade. Turn the game on, the LED instantly comes on and a hum eminates from speaker. After about 1.25 seconds, the LED will quickly fade off, and the hum will diminish. Then the first blink comes.
My problem was - I wasn't sure if that first on time was 'the flicker' or the first flash. If it was the flicker, it meant my 5101 chips were bad. So, I just got a used MPU off of here (I posted a wanted ad) and sure enough - if has a quick flicker and flashes. So, I snagged the 5101 chips, plugged them into my board, and yup, it powers up. So, I have a (mostly) working game. A *LOT* of bulbs out, broken drop targets... all rubbers were removed (waiting on new ones to arrive now). All coils worked, haven't gotten to the flippers yet.

One of my Meteors had the the lamp socket mod where you solder the control wire directly to the center tab of the socket. Look at pinwiki. It's a lot of work but it's reliable since the connection goes directly to the bulb, eliminating the current to flow from the solder tab to the bulb. This is where they fail because over the years, the insulator dries out and shrinks, causing the bulb to stay loose and not make good contact with bulb tip. Remember, controlled lamps are switched through the ground side of the circuit. The positive voltage comes from the trace wire under the pf. So basically the base of the socket is the hot side.

I'm glad your game is running now, yeah sometimes ya gotta spend some cash. It's odd that the you only got 1 flash. usually it's 2 flashes when 5101 is bad. The 5101 sockets are subject to corrosion if the battery leaked, it's a good idea to replace them as this may give you more trouble down the road, usually when you have people over for a pin party lol. Check out Pinball Life for the flipper mechs.

I'll be restoring my Meteor next year. The pf is currently getting restored, I have a NOS back glass and cab stencils. May try to have a cab reproduced since mine is rough.

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#85 8 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

I think this could be a good switch replacement: ebay.com link: itm

The silver box is a line filter and the red thing on it is the MOV or surge suppressor. These rarely fail, I only replace them when doing a full resto.

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#86 8 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Quoted from Coyote:
Yeah, I saw that. Honestly, I'd rather go the easy route (for me?) and make a small board to mount in there. Since I don't plan on LEDding it out (at least for now, I haven't seen any good LEDed Meteors yet..!) I would hate to have to unscrew that specific row to get to a single bulb.

I'd like to see how these come out and will buy if you make extra. On my first Meteor, I just replaced all the rocket lamps with new single mount sockets and it was alot of work. Also tight with not much room to change a bulb.

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#94 8 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Quoted from Coyote:
Quick question -
Will these new drop targets work? (On right. Note the long ridge under the three, down the center of the shaft. My original doesn't have it, and the small half moon is what catches and keeps the target up.)

IMG_20160428_210058_(resized).jpg

The one on the right is the newer stern style, circa 1980, started on later run of meteor. Some of the later Meteor had these targets on the upper bank. To use the the newer (hooded style) you need to change all of them to match. The earlier flat targets is called "chicklet" style. What is the T you need? I have extras...

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#98 8 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Quoted from SealClubber:
Did the bally one work with the flipped ridge?

It's not Bally, rather early Stern. A Bally target will not work in a Stern DT bank. If you look at some earlier stern such as Hot Hand or Dracula, you will see these "chicklet" targets.

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#100 8 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Quoted from Coyote:
Interesting. What changes were made in the assembly to support these? Anything other than flipping the top plate?
I went ahead and reassebled my #3 Rocket assembly. I reversed the top plate and installed it. While it *technically* works, I do NOT like these targets. First off, they sit lower, so the artwork gets cut off. (And, if the artwork was higher, it'd be visually cut off by the top lip of the 'tombstone'.
Here's a shot of my new #3, and an shot of the existing #2 -
IMG_20160429_220703_(resized).jpg
IMG_20160429_220651_(resized).jpg
Unfortunately, I don't have a choice right now, as all the DT banks - except for #2 - had broken or missing targets. D'oh. So they'll all get replaced. But I'll be looking for new targets in the 'chicklet' style. Heh.

That's a good question, but sorry I don't have an answer. I'm not sure if they changed the mechanism along with the targets. My theory is that they made the later targets with the lip on top because the flat ones were often getting broken from hard hits. The hooded target seems more robust. Now the numbers sitting low on the pf could be another issue. Is it possible that the 3 is stamped too low? I have an NOS number 3 target here and the 3 is about 1/16 below the underside of the lip. When I have a chance I'm going to measure the 2 styles side by side and see what the difference is. Also where did you buy the repro targets from?

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#107 8 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Quoted from DK:
AWESOME! Thank you! I can definitely work with that

It's also in the manual if you have it.

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#108 8 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

I have a Meteor head here an and someone did the same thing, I hate that! Animals!

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#111 8 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Quoted from SealClubber:
Yes, but my Stern chiclet/tombstone targets have that same ridge.
They might work if they modified the bank, which his apparently was?
The stamped ones are made by PBResource.

Yes PBR and classic arcades also sells them but I don't know if his are from the same mold. Another PITA is "bricking" with the repro targets, but that's a whole other issue. Also the memory coil release levers have to be tweeked on the METEOR dt bank.

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1

#117 8 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Quoted from Coyote:
Oh, another dumb question -
The ribbon cables from my sound board (two of them) have 1 less pin than the header on the MPU. (So there are two unused pins on the MPU..) What's the right orientation for these?
Played the first game on my game since I brought it home. Flippers need to be rebuilt, switches adjusted, but it's solid. I'm happy with it. Had fun playing a game. Not bad for a $300 game.

Bricking is when you hit a drop target dead on and it doesn't drop. Notorious Stern thing. I think it is more with the repro targets being more flexible than original. If your game has sound, leave the ribbon cables alone. There are unused pins on the J5 header of the mpu. IIRC they are the 2 far right side. My Meteor is all apart right now so I can't tale any pics.

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#119 8 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

The ribbon connectors are oriented the same as they are on the sound boards. I think the left ribbon has a key and the right one should be butted up next tot the left. One the J5 the ribbon should be going upwards. Usually the dirty side of the ribbon will face up lol.

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#120 8 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

ok, I had backwards, it the sound board ribbon the faces up and J5 face down, see pic of my F2K.

P5010145_(resized).JPG

P5010146_(resized).JPG

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2

#127 8 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Quoted from Gryphun:
Also looks like you are missing the instruction card (am currently redoing all of mine).

Meteor_transformer_instructions_(resized).jpg

I have had some of the Meteor cards reproduced at my favorite print shop. I had them done on heavy card stock in off white. Selling set pictured to PS'ers for $25 + postage. Single transformer card $5 ea + postage and Meteor self test for $5 + postage. I also have complete sets for Xenon, FG, EBD, Star trek and F2K. F2K nad EBD also include score cards. Can bring any of these to Pinfest as well.
I will also ad this to the market place.

P5020158_(resized).JPG

P5020159_(resized).JPG

P5020160_(resized).JPG

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#128 8 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Quoted from Gryphun:
Definitely keeping busy with the restoration (mid-range) since purchasing this Meteor several months ago. Hoping for CPR to reproduce the playfield.

Meteor_back_box_light_board_(resized).jpgMeteor_back_box_paint_(resized).jpgMeteor_lockdown_bar_(resized).jpg

Stripped the lamp board, that's brave. I did to 3 games so far. Are you replacing the lamp sockets?

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#131 8 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Quoted from Gryphun:
Lamp sockets don't look too bad so decided to keep them - lamp board just needed a facelift.
Per the instruction cards - you have IM.
Did you happen to make this instruction card as well - goes on bottom of cabinet (left of transformer and above the speaker)

cabinet_bottom_instruction_sheet_(resized).jpg

Yes, I wasn't sure if this was used in Meteor, mine didn't have it. Will be included with set.

P5020161_(resized).JPG

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#132 8 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Quoted from DK:
Can anyone help me with this "T"? Hopefully there's an extra for sale somewhere out there. I'd like to make the targets all uniform if possible

image_(resized).jpeg

I have a T to match the other targets, it's NOS, $10+postage

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#136 8 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Quoted from Coyote:
Is the 'Ball in Play' lamp behind the backglass supposed to be 'always on'? Wondering if I have a short in my lamp driver board..

No, only when game is active for the specific player, probably a shorted scr, easy fix. If you go LED then you might as well buy the Alltek lamp driver board since it has a jumper to eliminate strobing. Jumper connects to the feature lamp bus inside the backbox behind the lamp/display board to the Alltek board. I see them all the time for $99.

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#138 8 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Quoted from Coyote:
Okay, thanks. I'll probably be getting a new board, since in addition to that one stuck on, I have a handful that aren't lighting at all.

No lighting of lamps can be a number of things, loose socket, bad bulb, cold solder joints on lamp driver, connectors and of course the lamp driver. Also check the square connectors in the backbox for GI and the display board controlled lamps. They are weird connectors and hard to find. I found them at Newark.com and bought a bunch, 3 pin( service outlet plu) 4 pin (speaker volume), 6 pin and 9 pins. LMK if you need any, I can sell cheap.

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#151 8 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Quoted from Gryphun:
Shout out to Lovef2k. Instruction cards he made are awesome.

Thanks! I can't wait to see your game completed. Also thanks for explaining your re-paint process.

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#155 8 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Show quality for sure

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#157 8 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Quoted from TaylorVA:
Just joined this past Satirday.

You scored a nice one

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#181 7 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Quoted from Chosen_S:
Hey guys, I started a game in mine and strange things are happening... Everything was perfect, but now when the pop bumper is hit with the ball the knocker fires, and the drop targets on the left continually reset. Is there a particular chip I should replace on the mpu?

I had a similar problem with a seawitch, but mine had run away scoring as well. Turned out to be one of the PIA's.

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#184 7 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Quoted from TaylorVA:
Best place for replacement coin door parts?

somebody I think in Australia was reproducing the plastic coin slots. I can't find the link now but they were pricey. CPR made the pricing plates and sold there stock to Marco. Try them as they are only a few bucks a piece. I have some spare coin slots if you need any. I have repainted some with Krylon Fusion paint and they turned out nice

DSC01939_(resized).JPG

DSC01940_(resized).JPG

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#189 7 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Quoted from Gryphun:
Wish I knew that you had extra coin slots when I ordered the instruction cards - am in need of 1.
Prior owner filed down the edges that protrude through the chrome bezel - reasons unknown.

I can send one to you. I think I saved your address. I think the ones I have are all painted white like the F2K photo.

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#190 7 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Quoted from Coyote:
Was Meteor's door textured like that? Mine's stainless..

I have never seen a stainless coin door on a stern. I know the early games like wild fyre and stampede had a grey painted door non-hammer tone, just smooth. Post a pick of it.

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#194 7 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Quoted from SealClubber:
Has anyone had an issue with the repro drop targets not staying up? If so, anyone know a fix?

Quoted from Willathrilla:
Having the same issue. I tried shortening the springs, they're a little better but still not good.

Try tweaking the tabs on the memory target release mechanism. Bend them as needed. Shortening the springs sounds like a good idea but that puts more tension on the target and might actually pull the target down.

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#201 7 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Quoted from Gryphun:
Something a little different...

Your Meteor is looking great. I have done quite a few cab repaints so I know how much work is involved. I like that you aren't afraid to change up the colors.

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#202 7 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Quoted from Coyote:
Okay, I was wrong. Apparently, it was textured grey. However, because of it's age and something some previous operator did, it's feels sanded smooth and done up in silver. I can feel the texture in the paint, but it's real light. I mistook it for stainless until I got close enough to study it.

Yeah it was probably repainted. The rustoleum hammer tone silver is almost identical to the original finish. It takes some practice getting the hammer effect to spray evenly. It's great for the legs as well.

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#212 7 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Quoted from Coyote:
Woah, woah, woah... No coin lock-out coil?

Interesting to see how this speaker sounds..!
On another note - is there a replacement MPU board available that still USES ROMs, and isn't an all-in-one like the 'Ultimate' board?

Yes, the Twobits reproduction -35 with "Fixit" rom. His price went up $100 since I bought mine in 2008, now $329.
twobits.com

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#213 7 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Also you may be able to get it set up without the fixit rom and only Meteor eproms for less money, email him and see...

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#215 7 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Quoted from Gryphun:
What is so special with that twobit board that it is priced $129 over the Alltek? Since this is all new to me what am I missing?

Nothing actually, I don't know why he raised his price so much. Still even with either Alltek or Twobits, there's no free play option. Only Free play on Bally games. Coyote doesn't want the Alltek so that's my only other suggestion. Heck, for the money you can have the original MPU rebuilt if it's worthy.

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#217 7 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Never too old for pinball

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#219 7 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

I can check tomorrow

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#238 7 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Does anybody know if the Swinks Stern coin slots will accommodate a SBA coin. I know it's trivial but I would like everything proper. If you look closely these coin slots, they have a longer opening for the SBA. Swinks doesn't have a link to contact unless you have an order number and I haven't ordered yet.

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#241 7 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Quoted from swinks:
I stumbled across this thread and thought to chime in, I designed the internal slot to be the maximum height and width to allow any coin. Original I helped out a aussie that wanted to accommodate a 20 cent coin which is quite large. If you need a measurement of the auctual designed opening just yell out.
As for Shapeways you can message the designer, near the part is who it is by and you can click the designer and then a new page comes up and then you can contact.
Here is a link to the growing range of my parts and mods
http://www.shapeways.com/search?q=swinks&sort=newest

thanks for the support Taylor

Thanks for the info, do you think maybe in the future Shapeways can remake the credit/start button for the Sterns?

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#244 7 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Quoted from dothedoo:
I think you can get the price plastics from Marco or PBR.
Get the credit button decal on ebay, Marco's is NOT chrome mylar and looks wrong.
ebay.com link

Get the credit sticker from Pinballrescue.net
They have the chrome

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#247 7 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Quoted from Coyote:
I hope you guys don't start calling me an outcast now..
....Sorry.

Did you use the OEM Stern bats?

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#263 7 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Quoted from TaylorVA:
Fired up my Meteor for the first time tonight. Flipped power switch once and it would not fully boot. Flipped off and then immediately on and it fully booted. Did this about 4 times and the same every time. Anyone know why or have an idea why it might be doing this?

My F2K doesn't boot every time either. I stumbled on this thread, could be the issue?

https://groups.google.com/forum/?fromgroups#!searchin/rec.games.pinball/mpu-200/rec.games.pinball/kKqN2i7x9Xs/5qVbwIj2CgAJ

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#266 7 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Quoted from Vanapult:
I'm assuming it's because the longer shift would make for less flipper travel, which would in turn reduce the player's ability to trap the ball on the upper flipper.

I think he was referring to the shaft that goes through the PF. I think the repros were made longer to fit various game mfrs. Only a shorter flipper "shoe" would make less travel. The shoe being the part that the flipper bat mounts onto.

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#272 7 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Quoted from janus:
Greetings all. Just picked up a Meteor. The backglass is in rough shape. Anybody know if any decent originals or repros are available?

No rerpo that I have ever seen. Hopefully if/when CPR does the PF maybe they will do the back glass.

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#312 7 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Quoted from Gryphun:
Not as hot in the Bay Area but my clear coat dried to the touch in less than 2 hours.

That's the nicest Meteor cab I have seen! Nice work!

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#316 7 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

spiffy

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#339 7 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Quoted from Coyote:
Quick small update...
Parts came in for the light boards. I assembled them. Unfortunately unable to mount them in game yet, as my screws were too short.
Here's an image showing one all together with light sockets, one together without, and the back of #3.
Spacing of the boards in the game is VERY tight - mainly because the sockets are wider than what's in the game. I may try adding a spacer in the middle to support the board. But because the circuit traces have to run down the sides, it may not be possible. The two-pin headers are for the conmon/power wire, and both pins are connected - save with three populated 2-pin header at they other end. Help wiring that common.
Unless I have a lot of interest, I may not offer these up. It's about $11 per board, not including the headers and spacers, and assembly. Since you need four for the game (3 rockets, 1 spinner) that can add up. I am going to get a quote from another manufacturer that can also populate the board, and see what they want and price breaks
-Mike

Would it be possible and more cost effective to make a single PCB for the rocket inserts? This would eliminate the need for insulators between the boards and allow the 3 rows to be closer to each other.

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#340 7 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Quoted from Lovef2k:
Would it be possible and more cost effective to make a single PCB for the rocket inserts? This would eliminate the need for insulators between the boards and allow the 3 rows to be closer to each other.

This would also bring the mounting spacers and screw count from 6 to just 4 of each...

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#342 7 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Quoted from Coyote:
Yeah, can be done. I'm working on a board now to test. Again, though, the downside is that the board would ONLY be used for the rocket lights - couldn't be put into the spinner row of lights. The larger size board means that the single board would cost more than a single small board, but hopefully it won't be 3x the cost. :

Not 100% on that - with all the light socket holes, the board flexes. I'm tempted to leave all 6 spacers in when running it this way.

Games that use these lamp boards don't usually cover all of the inserts anyway so I would be happy with just getting the rocket inserts on the one board. That's where most of the congestion is.

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#353 7 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Quoted from Lysurgeon:
Are these the correct cabinet switches?
http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=597

I would call Pinball resource for the cab flipper switches. Steve knows what you need.

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#354 7 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Quoted from Gryphun:
Thanks. I cleared the memory and reset the DIPs.

Thanks. After clearing the memory I also reseated the coin door connector and was able to trip the little wire with a quarter to get a credit.
Music turned on, flippers activated, and it was go time!
All I need to do now is go through the audits and set replay at a low score to continually get credits.
Also need to figure out why my drop targets are not resetting.
When you hit all drop targets there is supposed to be an explosion sound then all of them reset.
The last set of drop targets that are up, you knock them down, they go back up in unison but none of the other drop targets go back up so no reset - more trouble shooting awaits...

Make sure the leaf switches behind the drop targets are closing fully when the drop targets go down. Put game in switch test from coin door button. Verify switch number to each drop target. Or do it visually.

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#374 7 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

One of my past Meteors also had a silent spinner. I tried different sound boards with the same result. I'm thinking it's a software problem. We need a classic Stern expert on this one. I will do some digging.

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#375 7 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Quoted from MotorCityMatt:
I have this same issue, put an order in for the nvrom, will this fix the sound issue?

It's possible...

0

#395 7 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Just want to let anyone who wants to know, a fellow pinsider is taking interest for making repro side rails for early solid state sterns. If he can enough interest to make 10 pairs, he will do them. I'm in for 2 pair.
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/38592

0

#402 7 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

AFAIK nobody made Stern side rails. Even the latest Bally rails from Marco are not right. I sent back 2 pair because of bends and extra holes.

0

#406 7 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Quoted from Coyote:
Okay, to clear up the confusion -
He's making the cabinet side rails - the plates that are on the outside of the cabinet that the glass slides into. These are NOT the wood rails on the playfield.
Taylor doesn't do metal.

Coyote got it right. The reason there are 2 sizes of the rails is because the Stern wide body early solid state, such as F2K and Big Game have a longer cab as well as a wider cab. There are definitely no wide body stern side rails on the market. I had 5 sets made by Doug Huse about 5 years ago. If there were any standard Stern side rails in the past, I'm pretty sure they have been long sold out.

0

#411 7 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Quoted from Coyote:
Okay, another strange question -
For the coin door config - was there a standard on coins accepted? Any options available when purchasing?

Any update on the lamp boards?

0

#413 7 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Quoted from Coyote:
Probably another month or so before I get first test ones in. It's been slow because of work (And wife and I splitting up..)
But, I have two protos that I'll be getting done - one with 5050 SMD LEDs (same units that are in most bulbs for sale out there), and one that has the screw in lamp holders.

Sorry to hear about the marital thing, that's gotta be rough. I appreciate what you are doing for the Meteor, I'm sure it will work out.

0

1

#416 7 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Quoted from Captive_Ball:
New Meteor member here....been reading up on this thread the last couple days to familiarize myself. I have a players example that has a few broken plastics. Anyone have an extra (used is fine) playfield plastic that goes above the METEOR drop targets? Example below.

I might, let me look over the weekend. I'm also working with Pinball Rescue for repro Meteor plastics but it's been slow going.

0

#418 7 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

I have a restored and clear coated Meteor PF on the way! Will post pics when it arrives, hopefully on Monday.

0

#422 7 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Quoted from Coyote:
Awesome! Who did the work?
Unrelated - have a general question for all owners here - if you could add or changed ONE RULE to the game, what would it be?

It was done through a pinpal that I have known for quite a while, I don't even have the guy's contact info. It did take more then 6 months to get it though. As for Meteor rules, I'm not into changing rules but I would like to have the roms with the bug fix and go to 7 dig scoring.

0

#425 7 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Quoted from Coyote:
Looks good. I'm debating between getting mine restored/cc'd or waiting for CPR.
On another note, I'm afraid to ask - has anyone seen the movie this game was made after?

pm sent

0

#441 7 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

I agree, you should always replace corroded header pins. Gold flashed contact do wear and sometimes need replaced. For cleaning them, you must use non-abrasive materials. I use a qtip with rubbing alcohol or tarnish remover.

0

#443 7 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Quoted from bdPinball:
Very good points. Deoxit huh? I'll have to get some of that stuff.
I gather these header pins CERTAINLY wouldn't be the same 156s that williams uses. That would be WAAAY to simple. What about the female pins? They definitely don't look like your standard molex crimp plug!
-B

Actually they are .156 header pins. The smaller ones like on the MPU are .100. Wms used IDC connectors for the female sockets, IDC=insulation displacement connector. The wires are actually pinched in the connector housing to make the connection. Meteor also uses Molex connectors but they are crimped on. The connectors are replaceable but they need to be done one wire at a time. There's a tool designed to remove the connectors or you can use a tiny flat blade screw driver. You can reuse the original housing if it doesn't have any burns. If a housing need to be replaced they can found at the usual pin part suppliers like Big Daddy Enterprises, Great Plains, Marco etc. You will also need to by a crimping tool. The housings used on Stern games are KK Molex type. If you need to buy new ones, don't forget to buy the key pins because most likely you won't be able to remove the old ones. You can probably find some how to vids on youtube. For .156 connections that have a high current draw such as GI circuits, you can upgrade to the Trifurcon connector. This grabs the pin on 3 sides as opposed to just one side.

0

1

#445 7 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Quoted from bdPinball:
Geez, and I JUST BOUGT all the miles to do every possible male/female for Williams games. I have a romper I got from gp, but I don't know if it does kk or not.
IDC = one of the crappiest methods I've ever seen for attaching a female plug in a pin/socket situation. Technically all ribbon cables are IDC too, so I suppose I should clarify that.. IDC on anything other than a ribbon cable is for the birds!
I'll look at my crumpets. Damnit. CRIMPERS!

HAha! IDC connectors were cheaper to make for the pin mfrs. I know they cause all kinds of havoc on the early Bally games like, xenon, EBd Fg etc. When I do a complete restore, I remove all of the IDC connectors and replace with the KK type and repin everything. Its brutal and tedious but necessary for a reliable game.
Oh, what is a romper?

0

1

#447 7 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Quoted from bdPinball:
This spell check wants to call a crimper anything BUT! Well honestly I've just Gotten all the crimping stuff, and my very first project is to de-solder some wires from some pins on my BK's mpu, and apply a proper plug.
I'll start slow, but I can see whileing away the hours just Meteor, Ebedie-le and me... <3. <3, repinning her molex plugs, and stripping her copper bare.. applying just a little flux, and... Get out the crimpers.
-B
(The flux was for comedic effect. I know flux goes on the playfield surface, not in a molex romp joint)

There's no need to flux or tin the wire before crimping. The wire need to be bare so that the connector can crimp down tightly to the wire. Just strip off about 1/8 to 3/16 of inch of insulation and you're good to go. I give the wires a little twist before crimping on the new connector. If you use the cheap Waldom crimper like I do, you need to do 2 crimps per wire, first one on the wire itself and the second on the insulation.

0

1

#450 7 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Quoted from tomdotcom:
Just moved my Meteor upstairs and I'm having sound problems now. Game has an aftermarket sound board, 2 new cables from Mpu to sound board and also nvram for u8/u13. Any ideas what might be causing this? See video:
» YouTube video

I'm not aware of any after marker sound boards made for Stern MPU 200 games. Did you disconnect the ribbon cables during the move? I would double check all the connections in the backbox.

0

1

#464 7 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Quoted from tomdotcom:
Anyone know a part number or size for the METAL slingshot threaded posts that go down through the playfield? I believe someone has installed the wrong ones on my game.

Not sure what you're asking for, can you post a pic?

0

1

#468 7 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Quoted from tomdotcom:
Thanks, mine def has a carriage bolt still, and lovef2k gave me some ideas to fix mine. Thanks boys

That's why we're here

0

#482 7 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Quoted from Coyote:
Silly question -
Can the WMS/Bally leg brackets (http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=144) be used in the Stern cabinets? A couple of mine are stripped, and I'd like to upgrade, stiffen them up.

You can but you will have to remove the wooden corner braces in the cab. I tried using this on F2K and the corner braces were a little too wide for the brackets to fit flush on both sides. Of course removing the wood braces will weaken the cab structure so maybe try making smaller braces and glue them in first and then add the new leg brackets?

0

#487 7 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Quoted from Coyote:
Okay, apparently I'm just going to spam this thread, as well. Sorry guys.
Got the new light board in from the PCB plant, and I have an important question -
How important is it to have built-in resistors for putting LEDs in?
The current design has two spots for a resistor network that can be soldered in, if you want to use LEDs with an original board. However, the latest board didn't work out as they're in the way of the screws to mount it to the playfield. So, either I make the board larger - sticking over the screws on either the top or bottom to fit them, or remove them completely. Right now I'm just thinking that I'll remove them (anyone that uses LEDs will likely put them in other sockets as well, which would require use of a newer light driver board..)

I don't think the resistors are necessary. Since the rest of the playfield doesn't have them anaway, I just use the Alltek lamp driver and you can add all LED's no problem. Someone also made a mod that firs on the lamp driver board that adds resistors at the header pins, either way you want to go. Pluus waht would happen if it did have resistors and you want to use standard lamps?

0

#489 7 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Quoted from Pmaino:
Just recently joined the club and I'm loving the pin so far. Two quick questions for the group as this is my first "early" stern.
1. When you dead pass from one flipper to the other, should the flipper be tight and not move when the ball hits it or is there a bit of a rattle to the flipper? I have tightened the hex screws for the flipper shaft but it seems to still sit loose.
2. Where can I purchase a new flipper shaft and bat? Can't seem to find them on Marco or pinball life. What's the part number?
Thanks.

Pete, early Stern flipper parts are tough to find. Pinball Life has these, it's for later games but will work on Meteor:

http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=2411

Plunger link assy only:

http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=2349

Coil stop reproduction, not as good as originals but will work:

http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=2315

Nobody make the flipper shaft and bat assy so you have to use this:

http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-3994-5

Sned me a pic of the flipper mechs.

0

#490 7 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Quoted from Lovef2k:
Pete, early Stern flipper parts are tough to find. Pinball Life has these, it's for later games but will work on Meteor:
http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=2411
Plunger link assy only:
http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=2349
Coil stop reproduction, not as good as originals but will work:
http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=2315
Nobody make the flipper shaft and bat assy so you have to use this:
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-3994-5
Sned me a pic of the flipper mechs.

The flipper mechs in these games can be 2 different styles depending on date of MFR. If the mounting plate fts flush against the pf, you have the older style. This has a shorter Flipper bushing than the later stern. The pawl is differnet also.

The flippers should not bounce or rattle. Could be worn out bushing, worn EOS switch, worn plunger link, weak coil. You can also check Pinball Resource for stern parts.

0

#492 7 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Quoted from setzkor:
If you have the mech that sits flush to the wood on the playfield, you will need to get the bushings from PBR, the ones at PBL will be too long. For the shoes and bats, actionpinball has stock of the shoes (A-192), though they are $10 each...and you will need the bat as well (Bally C611-5 will work). Not sure if PBR has the shoe to make it a one stop shop...
http://www.actionpinball.com/parts.php?item=A-192

Ah! I forgot about Action Pinball. The A-3994-5 is a universal replacement that is a molded one piece flipper bat and shaft. I know about the 2 different bushing sizes, that's why I asked Pete which mechs are in his game. I have actually cut the longer bushings to make them work on the flush mount flipper plates. Will the Action Pinball A-192 work in the later Stern flipper mechs?

0

#496 7 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Quoted from Coyote:
Yeah - originally the board wouldn't have the resistor soldered in, allowing the end-user to solder them in. But, I agree - hundreds of other ways to tackle it, so, one more board ordered, make sure it works out. Excited.
Re - the flippers. Am I the only one that upgraded to the WPC flipper mechs?

Cool, I can't wait to get one of these boards. Die hard Stern fans will leave in the old junk flippers lol...

0

#499 7 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Quoted from Coyote:
This board took me a LOT longer than it should have, because of other projects (including a new MPU-200 board I'm messing with, and messing with adding rules to the software..) In the meanwhile, while my TZ keeps kicking my ass and making me angry, I have always jumped back to my Meteor.

It's all good. I'm no where near ready to start the Meteor anyway. Also learned to be very patient when it comes to waiting for new pin parts.

0

#520 7 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Looks pretty good so far, I like having a single board over 3 separate boards. Do you have the lamp bases, I assume they will be wedge base type? Is there a schematic showing the pin outs? I noticed 8 mounting holes in the board, will we need to use all 8? I'm thinking something like this will work? http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/254-5032-01

0

#523 7 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

I signed up for the playfield a few months back. Fingers crossed for pf and backglass.

0

#528 7 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Quoted from zacaj:
Anyone buy replacement drops from PBR? Mine were all warped when they arrived .....

I have bought several drop targets for various games from PBR and have gotten 1 or 2 warped ones, just call them and explain, I'm sure they will take care of you.

0

#533 7 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Quoted from Coyote:
Hope everyone had a great holiday!
My second "test board" came in while I was out. I'll try it tonight or tomorrow..

What a clever idea, I like it!

0

#535 7 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Quoted from Coyote:
For the record, the coin door blue 'credit' button label that Marco sells is *not* metallic. It's horrible.
I was already pretty much writing off Marco - this pretty much sealed the deal.

I noticed that myself. I get them from the Pinball Rescue.net, the same guys that might someday get the meteor plastics done lol. I have an extra I can mail one to you, PM me your address. Oh and the Marco DT decals for F2K suck too!

0

3

#537 7 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Quoted from Coyote:
Thanks! You're awesome! I'll PM you, though no rush - I ordered it since I'm thinking about tackling my (horrible) coin door next month, but haven't started yet.. I'm looking into available methods to recreate that.. marbled(?) look.
For those interested in the LED board above, I opened a poll - curious to get thoughts:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/meteor-lamp-board#post-3530754

The marbled look is called "a hammered finish". You can recreate it very easily with Rustoleum hammer tone paint. The silver is a pretty close match and works great on the legs as well. You will need to do this when the weather breaks. It needs to be warm when you apply this paint to get the hammer effect right. If you have a warm area that you can spray paint it, that might work too. Here's a pic of a door I did a few years ago. I had the coin bezel, flapper and eject button chromed. Also new stainless carriage bolts that I polished with my dremel and green rouge. It takes some practice with the hammer paint to get the technique right, practice on some sheet metal. Also use a good auto primer. You paint both sides, even the hinge. Make sure the door is straight, sometimes they appear straight until you actually get it installed. If you have access to a blast cabinet, you can use it to remove the old paint and any rust spots.

If you want those white plastic coin drop bezels white again, just hit them with some Krylon fusion paint. This door has the crappy Start sticker before I discovered Pinball rescue.

DSC01939 (resized).JPG

DSC01940 (resized).JPG

0

#539 7 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Quoted from Coyote:
Thank you, Lovef2k! I have to get my door off, and disassembled before painting, so it'll be at least beginning of spring, but, I can't wait. I did pick up the paint; and yeah, it looks really really close!
For those interested in my light board, a question -
I like how the LED board came out - so much - that I'm thinking that I won't even worry about making the incandescent board. If anyone here was thinking about getting one from me, and not wanting the LED board, drop me a PM, lemme know.

I like the LED one but if a lamp goes out will we have to replace the whole board? Also will we need to run the alltek LED/lamp driver to stop flickering/strobing?

0

4

#541 7 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

The repro Meteor plastics sets are now complete and ready to order. It's been a long wait but I think it was worth it.

http://www.pinballrescue.net/Plastics_Meteor.html

0

1

#543 7 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

The spinner decal shown is wrong but will be corrected.

0

#549 7 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

It's a great price considering all the work you put into that game.

0

#558 7 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Quoted from MiamiRedSkin:
What is the going rate for an average meteor these days?

$600 to $800. $1000 if it's really nice. Don't believe it when a seller says it's rare because it isn't. It is rare to find one that hasn't been played to death though.

0

1

#559 7 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Quoted from Coyote:
Another quick question on the lamp boards -
Would $60 a piece be too steep for a single Rocket lamp board? I'm looking at getting various quotes right now..

I would pay $60 for it if it has the LED's installed. That would save about $21 depending on which brand of LED's one would buy to put in the game. Plus it would save another $21 for the replacement lamp sockets and the extra work to solder in all of the sockets if you decided to remove the brackets that hold the lamps. I did it once and it was a lot of work and all the sockets were very close together making it hard to replace the lamps. And finally since you're adding the resistors makes it an even better bargain.

0

1

#568 7 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Got Mine Wed. I didn't do a side by side comparison but they look nice.

0

#570 7 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Quoted from zacaj:
Either of you got intact left sling or upper arch plastics you no longer need?

Will take a looksee

0

#574 7 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

So there's no protective paper on the back side like CPR's?

0

#613 7 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Quoted from Coyote:
Just a quick update on the lamp boards..!
I have the final test board ordered. I should get it beginning of May. *However*, like I mentioned earlier this year, I'll be out of town on two road trips (first half-way across the country, second all-the-way across the country).
So, I won't be able to test it until mid-June. However, I'm expecting it to be good.
Right now, I will be making a single board for the rockets, and another board for the spinner lights. After I have those done, I will do a board for the METEOR drop lights.
After that - no plans. If someone has an idea, open to it. Right now, the boards that ARE going to get made will be a limited run (mainly because, I'm a poor bastard, and can't afford to order a huge stockpile )

I think it would be good idea to take per-order deposits to help pay for them. I would be glad to pay up front for mine.

0

#614 7 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Quoted from WhiskeyTango:
Has anyone purchased a new plastic set?
Classic Arcade
ebay.com link » Stern Meteor 10 Piece Pinball Machine Plastic Set Brand New 6 Color Screen Print
Pinball Rescue
http://www.pinballrescue.net/Plastics_Meteor.html
Are these the same set?
I'd like to get a nice set for my Meteor, but I'm a little gun shy.

Get the set from the Aussies. I was the one that got them to make them. It took almost a year but it was worth the wait. Their set also has a custom key fob included.

0

#618 7 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Quoted from Pinball_Nate:
WooHoo! I'm joining the club, with a project Meteor bought at A-town. Probably will not start seriously diving into it until winter hits, but looking forwards to it!!
Beware, I will be on here a lot bugging the hell outta you other members for instructions.................help...............etc.......

Congrats! Was that the one in the back row near Starship Fantasy? If so that was nice score for the price.

0

1

#632 7 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Quoted from SilverballNut:
So I picked up a meteor in a bulk deal in February, fixed it up (touched up and clearcoated the playfield but not perfect), repinned/rebuilt everything and put new plastics on and 7 digit displays (although going back to six digits). Eventually I'll probably repaint it and powder coat the coin door but it plays fast and held up all through TPF pretty well.
FYI I used LEDs with a new Altek board set. GI was just natural whites.

That's a nice looking Meteor. The back glass looks almost perfect. For shits and giggles, I had a original set of Stern legs powder coated in black stardust with a clear gloss top coat. They look stunning. If the light hits them just right, you can see a rainbow effect in the flakes. I will probably get the coin door and lockdown done the same. If you have access to a bead blaster, you can restore the coin door yourself. Rustoleum silver hammer tone paint looks identical to the original finish and very durable. You only need to blast the front of the door and the trim. Clean out and blast media from the hinge with some acetone and a brush. Practice spaying the hammer paint on some scrap to get the technique down.

0

#649 7 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Quoted from freakandgeek:
Recently moved mine and flippers no longer work...I have tripled checked every connector there is and still cannot figure it out. They all look to be good and in the right places.
The flipper coils have power, but none work. All other coils work. Everything else in game is normal.
A weird thing that I don't think is normal is the shoot again bulb comes on when I hit the right flipper button. So seems like I may have a switch issue.
Anyone have a clue? I am out of my comfort zone here. Never been good at troubleshooting these old Sterns and Ballys.

I did the same thing, make sure the square white connector in the backbox is connected. I think it was a 6 pin connector.

0

#653 7 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Quoted from WhiskeyTango:
Hey Team Meteor.. Quick question.
Has anyone tried the newer, one piece molded flipper bats from Marco?
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-3994-5 or http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-3994-4
Meteor is listed at a compatible product, but I wanted to see what people are using before I ordered anything. Thanks!

I have these in my F2K and they are fine. The original stern bats are a more narrow at the widest part and they are NLA. As long as there's no ball hop between the flipper return guide and the base of the flipper, you should be good. Another option if you have the original bats and are still usable you can clean them up and spray them with Krylon fusion paint. It comes in many colors now. Did the SB-300 work for you?

0

1

#665 6 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Quoted from uncle_jose:
Ok... I'm assuming that Stern used this design on other machines, correct? like Flight 2000 which I'm about to work on it.
Once again, thanks to all for their input!
~ja

Yes, F2K has a similar drop target bank for the 1-5 drops. The same bank was used in nineball as well.

0

#673 6 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Quoted from Coyote:
Actually yeah - I have the schematic ready, just haven't measured out and laid out the board. Same with the lamps for the spinner and the three bonus X lamps. Will probably NOT wait until they're all ready, and release them as each one is ready.

Any updates on the LED boards?

0

#675 6 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Quoted from Coyote:
Will let you know this coming weekend. I just arrived back in town Saturday, and have to catch up with missed work and unpacking this week. If the electrical characteristics work, and match what I requested, then I can start offering them, and it will make the spinner board and the other boards ('bonus x', METEOR drop boards) much quicker, as I don't have to worry about production.
Will post, probably this Sunday, a few pics and video of them. This means that next week I will be waiting on a larger-order quote.

Great news, thanks!

0

#677 6 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Quoted from Coyote:
I'm not expecting any surprises, since I checked resistor values, voltage and current one final time before sending this board off.
The ONLY thing I'm curious about is that this board will have solder pads, so that if a user wants to, they can directly solder the lamp wires to the board. (Instead of getting a molex connector and crimping them on.) While I don't expect any issues, it's possible that they will be unuseable in one form or another.

Yeah I think it would be best to install connectors in case the board needs to be removed for any reason.

0

#679 6 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Quoted from Coyote:
AARGH.
I must have *the worst* luck with ordering PCBs. Maybe I need to try a different manufacturer.
So the last two days I went over the board - everything was A-okay. The only odd thing was the warm-white LEDs - they were different from the cold-white ones:

They had black fronts to them. I kinda liked this, actually! So, after checking all the resistors and traces, the board looked really good..
Until I plugged it in.
All the warm white LEDs were... *RED*.
Argh!
While I'm waiting to hear back from the company that assembled it, I'm going to go ahead and contact a couple Chinese manufacturers, and start process to get quotes on larger amounts of boards.
--Mike

Bummer, but you're heading in the right direction. I applaud your efforts.

0

#684 6 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Regardless of what type of lamp is under the insert, if the insert is either opaque, semi opaque or translucent, the light will glow differently. I wouldn't be too concerned. If anyone is bothered by it, they can add a filter under the insert.

0

#727 6 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Quoted from Coyote:
WHich means -
If you (anyone!) hasn't signed up for a playfield, DO SO!

I asked Kevin about a Meteor repro pf, even if they do decide to run it, it will be a long time before they can even get to it. They have many pf's to do before hand. A back glass repro would be nice too. Even my NOS has some issues. At least we have nice repro plastics available!

0

#728 6 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

I just picked up another Meteor with a decent pf. It was running fine until today. I started a game and now the upper flipper is chattering, machine gunning. Any ideas? I'm thinking EOS problem?

0

#730 6 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Quoted from zacaj:
Usually a bad coil, or bad secondary switch on lower flipper

Thanks. I'll take a look at it later tonight.

0

#854 6 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Quoted from Robotworkshop:
So, I have been working on my coin door. It had one broken .25 mech installed. I just put in a pair of .25 metal mechs and one SBA mech on the door. Also found that two slots were covered in duct tape to keep people from using those slots. Took a while to get that and all the old dried up adhesive off.
After all these years it is hard to tell what parts may have been mixed up. The game currently has the SBA mech on the right and the .25 on the left and in the center. Is that how these were normally configured? I have a blackout and it has the SBA in the middle and the .25 mechs on the right and left. I wasn't sure if the Stern should be like that or the way it is now. If your machine came with two .25 and one SBA mechs how are they positioned?
Still need to find the mounting bracket and switch for below the middle mech. It looks like all three switches are the same. If anyone has an old coin door being parted out I could use those parts and a few screws. Maybe even one of the white .25 entry slot plastic pieces.

The sba coin was released around the same time as Meteor. I have seen this game with 2 slot coin doors with no sba slot and also 3 slot doors with the sba slot in the center.

I think it's possible that the sba was added to the game later in production. Notice that Bally did the same by adding sba to SMB, xenon FG and EBD in or around 1980.

Personally i like the 2 slot door for Meteor. If you plan to use the sba put it in the center slot. You can change the amount of credits given per dollar coin on the mpu dips. IIRC you can choose between 4 thru 7 credits per coin.

0

#856 6 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Quoted from Robotworkshop:
Thank you for the suggestions. I also have a Blackout and it has the SBA mech in the center. I wasn't sure if Stern was setup differently. I'll move that slot for the SBA to the center like my other game. Still need to find a bracket and switch for that center mech but can add that later when I find it.

I would love to help u with those parts but all mine are in storage until our house is finished. Just so you know Stern vid games w the black doors have the same inards and a ton of them on epay right now. The only difference is the absence of the white credit button.

0

#860 6 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Quoted from Robotworkshop:
If you ever do get to them I'd be glad to send you a set of the light shields I made for installing LEDs in the coin door.

Thanks. Get the power cord from Pinball resource. Flat one its like 14 feet long and prespliced.

0

#880 5 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Quoted from KJS:
Hi all. Joining the club hopefully next week.
Anywhere to buy a new repro backglass at all? I think Bgresto have them but not mirror effect only grey?
Thanks

no but hopefully John Greatwich can make it. There may be a copyright issue since this game has a trademark and was made for the movie.

0

#999 5 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Has anyone noticed that CPR moved the Meteor pf to the "pipe" from the "boutique zone"? Weird thing is that it states under the heading to follow boutique zone instructions but the other pf's in the pipe are standard pre-order.

0

#1000 5 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Quoted from KJS:
You can get new repro mirrored backglass from the Netherlands. Bally bingo[quoted image][quoted image]

Shipping must be a killer to the USA!! It looks nice though...

0

#1001 5 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Yes! We need a link.

0

1

#1048 5 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Quoted from Pinball_Nate:
Installed the LED light boards for the spinner lights and the rocket bonus - a LOT of wires to solder since I didn't use the pinned plugs option, but I tested with an AC adaptor and they seem to work just fine, I'll know once I get my project Meteor up and running.......
[quoted image][quoted image]

I must have missed the post about these being available,are they still?

0

1

#1086 5 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Quoted from zacaj:
Already checked the four sockets, but they're not touching anything. Can't think of anywhere else they could short. But I still don't get what the connection is between those four lamps. It's not like they light in unison usually. Hence the need for a good schematic

Weird things can happen with switched lamps if the switch matrix come in contact with ground. On one of my restore F2K's, the red outlane lamps were staying on solid. I racked my brain for 2 days and if I tapped the side of the cab, they would go out. It turned out to be a short between the coin door ground and a switch on the coin door. Look over any work that you did between now and before the lamps started flickering. Also did you confirm that the lamp driver is good?

0

#1098 5 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Quoted from hocuslocus:
I don't see any, only 44/47 bulbs

Somebody must have changed them to get the flickering effect.

0

#1102 5 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Quoted from hocuslocus:
it's the same socket size right?
Just a different type of bulb, do they go in the lighting baffles?

Yes they are bayonet style. Same voltage I believe. I assume by baffles, you mean tilt, ball in play, HSTD etc.? I haven't seen any game use them except for Black Hole. I would stick to regulars there but you can use the 455 blinkers/flashers behind certain areas of the backglass, like behind stars, planets or meteors. I just remembered that I saw the 455 on a Nineball once to highlight the pool balls on the backglass.

0

#1109 5 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Quoted from NeilMcRae:
anyone on the list for a replacement playfield from CPR?

I am. are they out of the "boutique zone" ?

0

#1111 5 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Quoted from Coyote:
Supposedly. But the email address, when you pre-purchase, says (or did when I did) thanks for the interest in the boutique listing.

I think that's what I got too...

0

1

#1116 5 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Quoted from ChipScott:
Can I ask the group a question. This is my first older machine, and while its not absolutely necessary at this point, i was contemplating replacing the flipper bats. I took a look under the pf and it looks like the flipper bats are held in place by right-angled hex screws; however, when I removed those screws the flipper bats didn't budge, at all. I didn't want to do anything too aggressive until I asked the group if I was missing something??
Thanks in advance!

If the bats have been on there for a long time, they will need a little persuasion to remove them. Hold the flipper crank still and try turning the bats in both directions to loosen them. Sometimes you need to twist and lift upward until they are free. In some cases the flipper bats are molded to the flipper shaft and you need to replace both. If you have a single screw under the flipper bat, you can just buy replacement bats, (plastic part). If you are going through the trouble, you might as well change the bushings as well. They are the white plastic pieced that the flipper shaft goes through and it help with 3 screws.

I have seen 2 different styles of flipper mechs on Meteor depending on run date. If yours has a space under the mounting plate, you will need the longer bushing. If the mounting plate fits flush under the PF then you need the short one. The short one is a little tougher to find, but I think Pinball resource has them.

0

#1118 5 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Quoted from ChipScott:
Thank you for your responses! I will be working on this one and keep you posted.
On another note, after about 10-15 min of gameplay, while raising the pf to take some second and third looks at the flipper mechanisms, I noticed the upper flipper coil was quite hot to the touch. Does not looked burnt, actually looks like a new-ish coil. The other coils were cool to the touch. All the wires to this coil seemed appropriatly placed and well soldered. EOS switch was appropriatly closed and opened well when flipper was engaged. Any ideas?

Was the correct flipper installed? Is the flipper resistor present under the PF? That flipper is supposed to have a 1 ohm resistor mounted under the PF. It's a fairly large resistor and usually white. It's there to soften the hitting of the Meteor targets since the flipper is so close to them. I'm not sure on Meteor, but games that use 2 flippers on one switch usually get power from lower flipper EOS switch that is piggy backed on the lower flipper secondary EOS closes. If that EOS has high resistance it may cause upper coil to get hot. Or it just could be the coil is on it's way out or is bad.

0

1

#1121 5 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

The coil looks like an original or at least a OEM replacement. I see by the pic that this game has been worked on everything looks good. Also it looks like the flipper bats have been changed judging by the longer shaft that the newer ones have and I would leave those in there. Unless you don't like white but I believe that's the original color. I may be wrong on this but I believe the strong side (lower resistance) of the coil is between the center post and the blue wire post. When the EOS opens 3/4 of the stroke of the flipper bat, the weaker (high resistance) side takes over (EOS open) between the blue and brown wire posts. So take the readings from there set on ohms. The black things are diodes not transistors. Diodes allow current to pass in only 1 direction. Since all the coils on the game share the same power line, these prevent current from traveling through all coils at the same time. It's possible that one of the diodes is going out (rare) or there was a poor connection, so when you bent them you may have improved the connection which reduced the heat.

Another thing could be the OES switch itself. The contacts build resistance from dirt and oxidation. The resistance between the contacts should be no more that 2-3 ohms. High resistance in a EOS switch will cause voltage drop to the coil which in turn causes more current draw, creating more heat. My Meteor was blowing the 43V fuse because the EOS swith was out of adjustment so these are critical. The EOS needs to be isolated from the circuit in order to test resistance, otherwise it may measure through the coil which you don't want. The EOS contacts can be cleaned by using a fine file, burnishing tool or fine sand paper, same for the flipper cab switches. Do NOT use these on the rest of the game switches since they gold plated, You must use a nonabrasive cleaner such as alcohol and a Qtip. Hope this helps.

0

2

#1134 5 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Quoted from ChipScott:
Wondering if I could get some help.
I have a new Stern meteor in my collection. It had been playing fairly well for a couple weeks. Last week, occasionally, not all the time, while playing a game, the game would go into reset, during which time the flippers would fall dead, the game would spontaneously boot and go through the five beeps, and then with hitting the credit button a new game would start and play well for a couple games. Weird.
Anyway, last night I turn it on, 5 solid beeps and game turns on. Attract mode shows normal lighting sequence, however, when I hit the start button the game is stuck with a single audio tone, lights going crazy, points are scoring for no reason. I also notice that the drop targets are not popping back up. They are all depressed, and do not pop back up when the game is turned back on.
This is my first older solid state, and so it's a bit of a learning curve for me. And in general, I am relatively new to working on pinballs in general. I did take a look at all the wiring. I found one shotty wire by the coin door which I resoldered. All of the wires otherwise looked good. No wires crossing or touching. I checked out all of the fuses and I do not see any blown fuses. All of the LEDs in the rectifier board at the base of the cabinet all have solid green light. coils at the drop targets are not hot. I see no burned coils. I do not see anything unusual in the back box when I mostly look at the boards. I know this has to be something that is fixable, I just have no earthly clue right now. Does this sound familiar to anyone? Can anyone offer any helpful tips or suggestions so that I can get this bad boy up and running. This is such a great game, I hate that it's not functioning well. Thanks in advance everybody.

I would try re-seating the grey ribbon cable on J5 of the MPU and the other end at the sound board(SB-300). Make sure you put it back on the same pins as there is a key on the header pins.

This game is over 40 years old now so connectors can be a big problem on these games. I would start with the power supply first (TA-100). Look for burned connectors. Make sure they are fully seated. Do a voltage test at the test points and make sure they are within specs. If that passes, then move on to the solenoid driver test points. The MPU needs a steady 5V and 12V to keep it from resetting. The MPU gets power from the solenoid driver. If the voltage regulator on the S driver is going bad, the game will reset.

Also you said 5 beeps at start up? It should be 7. Are you sure the game is booting properly? Do the score displays cycle between current score and high score?

Do you have corrosion on the MPU from battery leakage? That's a killer.

If you don't have one already, get yourself a good VOM with a diode tester like the Fluke 117. Also look up pinwiki on the interweb under the Bally/Stern section, you will learn a ton. Good luck bro!

0

3

#1137 5 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Quoted from ChipScott:
Thank you for the advice guys.
As far as beeps, I should clarify, there's 2 slow beeps, then a few second pause, then 5 faster beeps. The battery is redesigned to be off of the mpu board and sits on the floor of the back box.
lovef2k I will try and follow your recommendations. I appreciate you taking the time to write the response!

I meant to add, make sure you connect the ground braid from the cab to the braid in backbox. These are often removed for transport and forgotten about because the braid usually falls down inside the cab.

0

#1165 5 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Quoted from TractorDoc:
I keep forgetting to post pictures.
Recently acquired/installed a set of the Convolux plastic protectors in orange. They may not be for everyone, but I really like how they look in my game.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Do the original posts have enough length to accommodate the protectors?

0

#1167 5 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Quoted from TractorDoc:
I had enough thread above the protector and plastics with the standard posts. Because of the added height/reduced exposed threads I used 6-32 acorn nuts to secure the plastics. I could snug these up a bit; I think if you tried using the standard caps not enough post is exposed and they'd pop off easily.

I 6-32 stainless acorn nuts that i can use. How much does this set cost? I plan to do a meteor restore next year.

0

#1182 5 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Quoted from Crispin:
Hi Meteor crew, hoping someone can suggest what I'm missing. I thought I'd be able to get this done before Allentown but I don't think I'm going to make it. I bought this game as a project with a blown mpu and have never played the game before hand so I don't know how the drops behave. I installed a new weebly board mpu and a set of new J5 connectors from the mpu and the sb300 sound board. I re did the 3 connectors on the rectifier board and installed the proper fuses. I recrimped the 4 connectors at the mpu and the J3 and J4 connectors on the sdb.
The game boots up and plays but there's no sound and only the flippers work properly. The rest of the coils don't fire when the proper switches are engaged even though the 1 amp slow blow fuse is good under the playfield. I can fire the coils by grounding the resistor's tabs on the sdb and they all fire in coil test. I noticed strange behavior with Column ST1 which has the #3, 3 bank drop targets on the right, the 1 and 3 bumpers, the pop bumper and the slings. The drops scored fine when dropped and didn't engage anything else but when I engaged the rt sling the meteor targets reset, left sling drops the letter O, pop bumper drops R, advance 1 bumper drops T, and the advance 3 bumper fires the right sling. None of the switches that enacted other coils scored points.
While checking the columns I noticed that all other columns switches were wired the same way with the column wire on the top lug, the row wire on the side lug attached with the unbanded side of the diode and the banded side of the diode is on the back lug. The column that I have in question had the 1st 3 switches of the drop target bank wired the same way with the column wire attached to the top lug shared across all 3 switches and their respective row wires on the side lugs. The rest of the switches in the column had the order reversed with the column wire on the side lug and the row wire on the top. I switched the 2 wires on the slings, the bumpers and the pop bumper to match the wiring configuration from the 3 drop target bank. Now all ghost firings are gone and the bumpers, pop bumper and slings all score when hit but the thumper and the slings don't fire their coils when engaged. I checked the switch test and receive a "0" indicating ther are no stuck switches. The one thing I forgot to mention is the 2N3584 transistor that regulates the high voltage is shot because I get a 230V reading at the rectifier board. Could that be hampering my coils from firing correctly? I'm running out for a birthday dinner but will be back in 1.5 hrs, hopefully I can at least fix the coils and then maybe I'll bring her to the show and see if I can fix the sound on Thursday. Thanks in advance for your time.

I'll be at the show tomorrow. I can bring an extra sb-300 to throw in your game for testing. Make sure you connected the ribbon cables correctly. It's easy to be off by 1 pin. Did you buzz the 1 amp slo-blo with a meter, sometimes those fuses look good but fail when ohming them out. Those old fuse clips get weak on those also. I'll be in the back row with my F2k. I have a red Ram with a big old red rental trailer behind it.

0

#1184 5 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Quoted from Crispin:
Thanks Lovef2k, I wasn't going to bring her because she wasn't fully functioning but you have inspired me. I made sure the new J5 cables started at pin 1 and set the next set with pin 1 right next to it leaving 2 pins at the end not connected when both connectors are on. I also removed the fuse and checked and made sure the clips were grabbing the fuse. I'll throw her in the car and look for you tomorrow. Thanks so much!

You got it bro.

0

#1186 5 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Quoted from Daditude:
Meteor is one of the greatest games of that era (EBD, paragon, fathom, and flash gordon being my other top ones). It's so nice that you can share it with others.

That's why we have this forum, to help out other pinheads. It's a beautiful thing! Speaking of EBD, I have 3 1981 versions on the chopping block for restoration this coming year. I do complete high end restos on my games. I'm going to work on the cabinets this year. I'm hoping to get all 3 completed. Then over the winter and next spring I will do the pf swaps and re-assemble them. 2 will be for sale and 1 I will keep.

You have good taste. I did a Fg a few years ago and sold it to a well known collector in CA. Fathom has been unobtainable for me so far. Paragon is cool but I'm not a huge fan of Bally wide bodies. Except for Embyon, I like that one.

Other future restos will be Meteor, Seawitch, Xenon and high Speed.

0

#1188 5 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Quoted from Daditude:
If i could afford it, i would be going after one of those EBDs. Im sure you will have no issues selling them, however. If i come across a fathom for sale, i will let you know.

cool, thank you!

0

#1196 5 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Quoted from Crispin:
Big shout out to Rich,(Lovef2k), who helped me revive my Meteor because apparently I can't handle simple directions. I had my Meteor dip switch settings backwards because I misread the instruction sheet. What made this even worse was both Andrew who made the board and Dennis who was gracious enough to spend the whole afternoon helping me fix her asked if I double checked the settings! The dip switches are upside down on the board so the they read from 8 to 1 not 1 to 8. Rich sauntered over and immediately knew what the problem was. I took out the dip switch sheet and corrected the game code and everything was perfect. Thank you Ivan, Dave and crew for an awesome weekend! Thank you Rich for inspiring me to bring her then fixing her. Thank you Dennis helping me all day and for not choking me out after I told you the story!

I'm glad you brought the Meteor and I was also glad to help. I'm sure Andrew was thinking it was deeper issue and he wasn't there to witness the odd behavior of the game to notice that the dips were out of order. Anyway, I'm glad it all worked out and that the game also had working sound after all. It was a fantastic show with awesome games and record setting attendance this year so I heard!

0

1

#1197 5 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Also, did anyone see the Rage Tilt shirt that said "I'm not fat, I'm a wide body" and the game on the shirt said "Meatier" on the backbox, so clever I had to get one.

0

1

#1199 5 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Quoted from NeilMcRae:
Folks,
just noticed that Meteor replacement play fields are about to go into production by the looks on CPR...
Neil.

Yes, it has moved out of the "boutique zone" but I think they are at least a year or so out before they release. There are 6 titles ahead of Meteor still. They just did the backglass as well. I got one and it looks great. I just noticed that there was a significant price increase on their backglasses though. I wonder what's going on there. Knowing CPR, there must be a legitimate reason.

0

#1210 4 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Who did the powdercoat?

0

1

#1213 4 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Quoted from ChipScott:
Hey Lovef2k , the folks at TNT organized the powdercoating for the game, so I'm not entirely sure who actually did the job. Looks great though, whoever did it did a good job.

Thanks, I'll hit Todd up for the info...

0

#1215 4 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Quoted from toddtuckey:
Powdercoating was done by Bonehead Performance in Warrington PA!

Thanks Todd.

0

2

#1237 4 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Quoted from dothedoo:
Noticed on CPR’s site today that playfields are in production. [quoted image]

I've been on the pre-order since it was in the boutique zone, I can't believe it's finally happening!

0

#1244 4 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Quoted from RC_like_the_cola:
Seems my METEOR drop bank had the back plate install incorrectly. The bottom edge should be inside the lip of the main bracket. Fixed that and it is waaaaaay better. Now, I need a leaf switch or just the bent blade for the switches that score the individual drops when they fall. One broke while adjusting it. Can't seem to find this specific type of leaf switch anywhere.

You can probably get away with bending the leaf blades. You need to remove the switch stack from the assy to get the proper bend. If you need to rebuild a switch, buy the parts from Pinball Resource. He has 3 different thicknesses and the gold flashed contacts all sold by the piece fairly cheap. His blades has detents where you cut them to the length you need. Contacts are easy to add on with a small ball peen hammer and a soft area to work on. I buy a bunch at a time to keep on hand. You never know when you'll them if you many games. I have some NOS tombstone targets for Meteor, don't know if I have a E or not. Will let you know. I'm pretty sure I can scrape up a used on though.

0

#1245 4 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Quoted from Lovef2k:
You can probably get away with bending the leaf blades. You need to remove the switch stack from the assy to get the proper bend. If you need to rebuild a switch, buy the parts from Pinball Resource. He has 3 different thicknesses and the gold flashed contacts all sold by the piece fairly cheap. His blades has detents where you cut them to the length you need. Contacts are easy to add on with a small ball peen hammer and a soft area to work on. I buy a bunch at a time to keep on hand. You never know when you'll them if you many games. I have some NOS tombstone targets for Meteor, don't know if I have a E or not. Will let you know. I'm pretty sure I can scrape up a used on though.

Sorry for the missing words, I think faster than I can type lol...

0

3

#1247 4 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:
I've created these custom apron cards, and am making them available for $10 per set, including US postage. I print these on a photo printer using OEM ink (no cheap third party) and OEM ultra gloss photo paper. I then cover in 3 mil clear gloss laminate, and razor cut to size.
Please PM me if interested.[quoted image][quoted image]

I ordered these from Mr_Tantrum and received very quickly. Pics are in a F2K apron but the colors are the same as Meteor. Couldn't be happier with these!

P7260064 (resized).JPG

P7260065 (resized).JPG

0

#1252 4 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Quoted from jonesjb:
I don’t own a Meteor pinball machine yet, but I have a damn good topper here. Just have to buy a pin to go with my meteorite...[quoted image]

awesome!

0

#1254 4 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:
I'm still fighting my damn drop targets. I rebuilt the bank with my new targets and then screwed up the E, E and O leafs. They'll register if I press the back with my finger but not naturally with the target itself. I just can't seem to get those leafs right. B l a h.
I did scoop a CPR glass for $190 though! Excited for that to get here. Maybe it'll motivate me to work out the kinks on the drops so I can play again...

The good thing with that bank is that it's easy to remove from the playfield to work on it. I would first clean the switch contacts with rubbing alcohol. Remove them from the back plate and bend them to give more tension on the leaves. Maybe the reset bar is not dropping enough to allow the links to drop far enough to let the fingers lift/activate the switches?

0

1

#1257 4 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:
Not sure really. I noticed the M is the only one that really drops in the exact perfect spot. Seems all the others drop TOO far which can prevent a target from registering the full press.
I'll get back to it. Hauling my new world cup 94 home now, then hauling Af-Tor up (sold) and possibly dragging black Knight 2000 up as well. Would like to be dragging a space shuttle down shortly thereafter

That's a lot of moving around lol. You may have noticed that the Stern drop target banks of this era were cheaply made. Inferior metal I guess. The target link are usually egged out around the holes that ride on the shafts. This could cause some issues if they are really bad in your case. Even the shafts get grooves from the links moving around creating even more slop. But I never seen any of them bad enough to cause the switches not to activate.

I was talking with Marc Mandeltort of Marco Spec about the bad Stern parts. He said he would be willing to reproduce some of these parts. All he asks is for the part numbers. He does all of his parts in stainless steel. I think it's time to get this ball rolling!

0

#1263 4 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Quoted from NeilMcRae:
Thanks but wanted to see it powered up
Did some games come like this from the factory?

It's a mystery to me what the red score backglasses were for. One thing to note is the red version does not have the HSTD window for the lamp behind it. From IPDB, Meteor was also assembled in Australia, could be the source of the red glass? There were also knock down games made, 423 of them so maybe the red glass was from those? I have noticed that some export games, Bally and Stern had different backglasses than the US versions. Kiss for example.

I have a NOS red version that has some minor art separation in the center, I have not installed it in the game to see what it looks like.

0

#1269 4 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:
Yikes.[quoted image]

So which one is which?

0

#1273 4 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Quoted from RC_like_the_cola:
Got an issue on mine that is the last thing on the list since I finally got the METEOR drop bank working as intended. The last issue is that my right slingshot is firing on its own and scoring even though I have placed paper between the switch contacts. It was doing it and I figured must be getting a switch closure on a vibration, but after digging into it and doing the paper test, it isn't that. It will fire on its own when other things are firing. Either flipper can cause it, drop banks, pop bumper, but not consistently. I recall reading that bally/stern games could have issues like this due to interference. Could this be what's going on? I can try shielding the wiring.
Thanks for any info.

If the sling is awarding points then there must be switch closure somewhere. Most likely a vibration issue or the switch stacks are creating a short. Did you try tapping on the PF near the sling shot? If it has a capacitor, clip it as they are not really needed for sling shots.

The following may be your issue or not but it's interesting as many Bally Stern games do this:

Search "phantom sling shot fire" in the above search box. 3 threads should come up about this.

My F2K does the same thing, upper left sling fires whenever it wants to. I never took notice if it scores or not. It's not set up for play at this time. Keep in mind that I completely restored this game top to bottom and the phantom firing started after the restore. I haven't tried to fix this yet, but I think it may be EMF that is firing the sling. Maybe the newer manufacturing of the caps and diodes are inferior from the days of old? Who knows! I'm thinking of changing the caps from ceramic to tantelum (spelling?) or mylar. Perhaps they are better insulated?

0

#1274 4 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Oh, also look for any solder droplets on the switch from any previous work.

0

#1301 4 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Quoted from hawkmoon:
Can anyone direct me to a web site that has a 6 bank drop target assembly to replace mine??? I've already tried Marco,BAA.and PBL.!! PBL has a 3 bank and a 4 bank ,but not 6!! Is it possible to put in 2.3bank targets and wire them together??Thanks!!!!

Is your missing or just broken?

0

#1313 4 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Quoted from Isochronic_Frost:
Welp I just finished picking up and ripping apart that VILE abomination of a pinball machine. The woodwork/termite infestation was abysmal and destroyed everything, but it was thankfully a dead colony. No eggs or larva at all.
However the ungodly amount of vile god damn cockroaches and palm-sized spiders that crawled out of every fucking cranny of that machine has broken my spirit.
I no longer believe “any game can be saved” this game deserved death. (Pictures will be posted in my thread for them tomorrow)

Sorry to hear that! Luckily Meteors are common.

0

#1327 4 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Quoted from Y3AG3R:
$2500 is the most one has sold for. Better question is: Is anyone looking for a $2500 Fully Restored Meteor? lol

You never know, I sold a restored F2K for $6k in 2012. It all depends on who is looking at the time.

0

1

#1345 4 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Quoted from westofrome:
I've been having an issue with my METEOR drop target bank where sometimes when the bank resets, the M and first E targets get reset a little too high, and then the auto-drop can't drop them again. This only happens maybe half the time. You can hear the click of the auto-drop mech but it doesn't catch to drop them. If I gently nudge it slightly lower, then the auto-drop mech can finish the job.
These are all repro targets from the same set. Is there anything I can do to adjust the mech so these don't get returned as far? Thanks!

It seems that the M and E may be hanging up when fully raised. Lift them manually and see if they are binding somewhere.

0

#1377 4 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Quoted from Multiball33:
Who has the best replacement drop.targets nowadays? Saw Marco's has a set with the decals. Also saw classic arcades has a hot stamped set? My game has different ones. Some hooded and others non-hooded?

The non hooded drops are NLA. The hooded and non hooded are interchangeable.

0

#1378 4 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Quoted from Lovef2k:
The non hooded drops are NLA. The hooded and non hooded are interchangeable.

Try Pinball Resource.

0

#1380 4 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Quoted from zacaj:
Pbr has hot stamped, but both my sets from them were warped.

Did you tell Steve? I'm sure have corrected that for you.

0

#1382 4 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Quoted from zacaj:
After I got the first set, I contacted them, and they sent another set.... that was also warped. Between the two I was able to at least get one set together that was only sorta warped and still at least worked, so I gave up

That sucks. You would have thought that they would have made sure the second set was straight. It must be the way they are storing them or crappy plastic. I have gotten their's before without issues.

0

5

#1398 4 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

The wait was worth it and finally over!! In photos, my restored PF on the left, CPR on the right. Very pleased with the PF. Smooth clear with no flecks or boogers. Wood thickness and dimensions are consistent to original. Major cutouts for flippers, slings, drops and pops are very consistent to the original. I verified by placing the CPR over the original and I can see all cutouts aligned very well.

P1170114 (resized).JPG

P1170115 (resized).JPG

P1170116 (resized).JPG

P1170117 (resized).JPG

P1170118 (resized).JPG

0

#1402 4 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Quoted from woz:
Thanks for the pics. It's always nice to know in advance that things line up.
I wonder why CPR decided not to put the rubber ring sizes on the playfield? It doesn't matter to me as you can't see once plastics are installed... just wondering Mine should be here next week.

Just be aware that I only checked the major things like flipper shaft holes, DT, pop bumper cut outs. The smaller holes and dimples will need to be verified upon swapping.

0

#1403 4 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Quoted from Coyote:
Interesting. I too am surprised they left out the rubber sizes.
Also, did they use the wrong color for the secondary, outer insert keylines? (Easiest to notice comparing the two playfields and the lights in front of the "METEOR" drops..) Or, did your playfield just fade that much? I can't tell on my OEM field since I'm not at home at the moment. ..

I think CPR has only done 2 classic Stern pfs, the other being F2K. That one also didn't have the rubber sizes, not sure why, but they are not necessary since they are shown in the manual.

Keylines, My original was restored so I cannot verify the extra thickness on mine but they are both yellow.

0

#1404 4 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Just found these 2 extra holes on the CPR Meteor. I'm not saying this is an error but more than likely just a variation from manufacturing. An easy fix, just parallel an extra GI there. I have 1 or 2 more Meteors here to check but they are buried right now.

P1180119 (resized).JPG

P1180120 (resized).JPG

P1180121 (resized).JPG

P1180122 (resized).JPG

0

#1407 4 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Quoted from Coyote:
Not complaining, just noting differences. I looked at yours more closely, and it just looks like it was restore work. (I got home late last night and didn't go downstairs. Now that I'm up, I will be working in the basement this long weekend, so I will be taking a look.)
I also noticed on CPR's site (and verified on your images) it looks like they missed a dimple up behind the Meteor drops, and have another added hole in the back arch. More light!

It could be a missing dimple, or my pf had an extra hole there. IDK and will check it out. Either way, it's no cause for alarm since it's probably only for a post for the pf plastic. I don't see extra holes at the arch, you might be seeing the alignment keys used for the silk screening.

0

1

#1409 4 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Quoted from Coyote:
Oh, no. That post was added during production. Mine has it to, as does the other handful of Meteor's I've seen. (I'm guessing because they had reports of the ball hitting that rubber and smashing one of the bulbs back there.)
(And you're right, I was mistaking one of the registration marks as s drilled hole on first glance!)

That could be but I think it was just missed. With no post there, you would have an unused hole on the plastic piece. All you need to do is place the plastic piece over the existing dimples and mark the location of the missing dimple. I'm not sure but maybe doubling up on the rubber ring will reduce the chance of breaking the GI lamp?

0

#1448 4 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Quoted from slochar:
Can you turn off the comma on the pinitech's like you can with bally 7 digit displays? (I forget what you cut on the bally displays to do this....)
My OCD doesn't allow commas on stern games.....

Pinscore had a removable jumper for the comma. I would think Pinitech do as well?

0

1

#1457 4 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Quoted from Coyote:
My PF is on its way. I may order a set of blues from you for my Meteor soon. Whenever you open back up. I think the blue would look sweet.

Dang Mike! You weren't the first one on the list lol...

0

#1460 4 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Quoted from Pinballer73:
A group order here in Australia had 3 playfields delivered to one address. One of each grade, Gold, Silver & Bronze. Can you identify which playfield is which from the photos below? [quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

That's good stuff! I got a gold and it's pretty much flawless.

0

#1462 4 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Quoted from Quench:
Middle playfield is Bronze? Artwork missing along the right edge.

That should be hidden after the wood rails are installed.

0

#1495 4 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Quoted from KJS:
I have my Meteor finally running after what feels like an eternity, but have one last issue I'm hoping someone can help with.
Machine is constantly resetting.
I have narrowed it down to J2 pin one orange wire on the mpu. I have then narrowed it down to the M target on the top target bank. Disconnect orange wire and no resetting and game plays. so obvious one, change switch and diode, but no fix, same issue! Any advice is appreciated!
The other switches in the row seem.fine and isolating them didn't fix the reset issue.
The other issue I have is I have the Alltek led board in but the 1 rocket row of inserts flicker. Have tried many different leds, resistors and diodes to no avail.
I believe it is a common problem for the board and Meteor but if anyone has gotten leds to work please let me know. I'd rather not go back to globes.
Thank you!

If you have the manual handy, look at the switch matrix. Find the column with the M drop switch and see if any tilt switches are in line with that. You may have a bad capacitor on one of the tilt switches. With game in play mode, disconnect the coin door harness plug and then drop the M target and see if the problem goes away. This will isolate the slam switch or any other shorts in the coin door that sometimes affect the switch matrix.

0

#1523 4 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Quoted from Chosen_S:
Ok, I had a doh! Moment.
I finally located a manual for the allTech MPU, For some reason the jumpers on clock speed were never moved for the correct clock speeds for Mpu 200.
I guess that fixed the sound problem, but I still think the game sounds like crap and not like it’s supposed to with the original MPU.
The out hole switch issue is fixed as well
Doh!
Thank you for the super fast help guys!

Perhaps it's time to re-cap that sound board. Easy job if you have basic soldering skills and a de-soldering tool as well.

0

1

#1524 4 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

At one point I had about 8 SB-300's and was testing them all in the same game, it's amazing how some of them have a different sound, some were pitchy and some seem to play back in different speeds.

0

2

#1527 4 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Quoted from Chosen_S:
Thank you for the suggestion. I recapped the sb300 before I posted.

Big maybe, I know it’s old, but i get clear dings and everything else including the windup of the low to high tone as the game progresses... I’ll find a suitable replacement and do that this week.
I’m not getting the spinner sound, I hear the first blip of it, but then it just glitches out.
I’m wandering if it’s the alltek mpu.
I have a flight2k in storage, I may unwrap it and grab it’s sb300 and swap it in :-/

The speaker could still be bad. Only certain frequencies may cause distortion. It could also be a bad output amplifier transistor going bad or connector issue at the SB-300. Just an FYI, F2K's sound board has a jumper wire on the back side because the game has speech. That will still work in Meteor, but not vise versa.

0

2

#1559 4 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Classic Stern boards are identical to the Bally of the same era, 77 to 84. I'd say the weakest link of the Sterns is the rectifier(power supply) board. They used very small bridge rectifiers that were mounted to a thin heat sink mounting plate. Almost every one I see has been rebuilt and/or hacked to death. The main fix was to add larger rectifiers that were reverse mounted and have larger heat sink fins mounted on them. This board is very similar to the Bally rectifier board but has less heat sink area.

The best reproduction available is the weebly replacement board. Reasonable pricing. Available fully assembled or DIY.

The next weakest link is the connectors to said board. Those usually have burnt pins and/or connectors. Using Trifurcon connectors on the heavy wires help very much.

The MPU's are very similar. Bally is the -17 and -35, Stern has the MPU-100 and 200. Stern MPU's have a different clock speed compared to Bally. Reproduction MPU's have a jumper setting for this. Meteor will be a 200, if not swapped with a Alltek or weebly by now. Weak point of original boards are header pins and U8 and U13, the 5101 RAM chips. As with most MPU's or CPU's, battery corrosion can be an issue from leaky batteries.

Lamp driver and solenoid drivers are interchangeable without modification. It helps if all mods have been done to the solenoid driver.

Sterns have their own version of sound and speech boards. Weak link to sound are the ribbon cables from J5 MPU to the sound board. Sound board should be re-capped by now.

The lamp driver can be changed to a Alltek Lamp/LED driver board for adding LED's. There are also cheaper alternatives where you add flicker eliminators to the connectors at the lamp driver board. Meteor is tricky when it comes to LEDs. Read prvevious posts in this thread for more info.

Weebly has built in NVRAM and also NVRAM available for MPU-200

https://nvram.weebly.com/new-pcbs.html

0

#1571 4 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:
Does anyone know the proper p/n for the shooter rod and spring? I'm about to place an order with Marco and it'd really be nice to throw that in as well. I don't think it's the same one as all the Williams machines (because of the beehive piece).. Right?

Which spring? Long one inside cab or short outside cab?

0

1

#1575 4 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:
Both, I guess? Whatever wear parts I should replace along with the rod. I can't seem to find anywhere, including the manual (unless I'm blind which is certainly possible) that breaks it down.
I assume the outer spring is pretty standard, and the inner spring may also be. Really the rod is the biggest question mark for me. Mine is roached.

I have a stern parts book somewhere. at work now so access at this time. The inner spring is a softer one. They usually have color on them for the strength of the spring. I'm not sure how they work though. I would call Marco. They are always eager to help on the phone. I will look for part numbers after work.

0

#1578 4 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:
Both, I guess? Whatever wear parts I should replace along with the rod. I can't seem to find anywhere, including the manual (unless I'm blind which is certainly possible) that breaks it down.
I assume the outer spring is pretty standard, and the inner spring may also be. Really the rod is the biggest question mark for me. Mine is roached.

Sorry for the slow response. Dug out the parts cat. tonight finally. The inside spring is 5A-137, outer 5A-136. The inner spring is basically sold by the strength you prefer for your game. Most early solid state games need a super stiff spring. I would go for the medium light for Meteor. Marco suggests the #10-149 outer spring for F2k, they don't show any for Meteor but I would think it would be the same since they share the same assembly. Marco carries a red beehive shooter housing which I think would look cool on Meteor.

0

#1583 3 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:
A good friend of mine sent me these to replace the busted ones I had. Can't wait to install them!
[quoted image]

Nice the upper near the spinner is usually always broken.

0

#1584 3 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:
Any info on the rod itself?
Thanks a bunch for digging that out and looking through it for me!

Yes, the rod is A-315. I usually just fix them up with chrome and if the end is peened over, just file it down. You can also buff the knob (no pun intended ) to get the shine back.

0

#1611 3 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Quoted from ss-pinball:
Picked up my Meteor project today...claims it ran like a top when he put it in storage 5 years ago...then 10 years ago.
Playfield is in good shape (no obvious wear or cupping--but where did the fishing bobber come from?!!??!!? I mean, it is under the playfield glass...I really don't know and neither did he!) AND I got a Bonus populated playfield! Woo Hoo! Also, no wear. Both look like they are in really good, avobe average shape. Has original boards...the downside? Well, there's no backglass. And it doesn't run. ANd between the two playfields, I don't have a full set of plastics.
Next stop? Reading five years of posts about this pin!

What happens when you throw the switch?

0

1

#1614 3 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Quoted from ss-pinball:
Has anyone done anything interesting with rubber color or translucency? I'd love to see some pics...
I see that Marco has a black rubber set? Anyone have any pics of that? (Any feedback on the black rubbers on other pins?)
Also, I'm not much for clown-vomit-looking pins, but I think that adding a little bit of color could make things pop on Meteor.
Anyone have some lighting they are proud of and want to show off?
(Ordering the repro backglass, so colored LEDs aren't necessary to help hide backglass flaws on this one).
Is there a deep preference in the group for the version of the backglass that is more desirable?

Black rubbers are not as soft as white so game play might be different. I don't know about colored ones but I think purple or red would look cool. I just don't know how pliable they are.

I would get the green option back glass. I got the repro before they added the green.

0

1

#1676 3 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Quoted from ss-pinball:
My Meteor actually has a Silverball Mania spinner on it....which leads me to believe that Classic Bally and Classic Sterns may share more than just a board set. Anyway, I was able to look on the Silverball Mania machine page here on Pinside and get some detailed pics of the spinner. (My Meteor is at my other house and the Meteor pics do not have the correct angle to determine the exact linkage type used).
Anyway, from looking at those pics I was able to find what I think might be a compatible spinner, assembly and link for $9.95 shipped on ebay. A little acetone, maybe a scrape with a razor blade and the new spinner will be ready for a couple of stickers. The link was of a slightly different style--probably older. Instead of a single loop around the spinner arm, it has several loops (and resembles a spring) and therefore probably doesn't need those fat spacers. For $10 it was worth the risk.

The spinners are similar but the Bally spinner has a thicker wire stem that runs through the center on the spinner. Therefore you need to swap it over with the Bally mount (hood) with it or enlarge the holes on the Stern.

0

#1701 3 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Quoted from Aflacjack:
Lol yeah I completely missed the single battery. Displays don’t come on, just a couple orange dots. And no solenoids fire nor will a game start. There’s issues somewhere, just gotta find them. Might be easier once I get it unloaded and can check fuses, etc

Start at the rectifier board. Slide the clear shield up and remove it. Get a high quality VOM if you don't have one already. Get familiar with pinwiki.com Bally Stern section. It's a great resource for volatge specs for each board. Also mod fixes and other info.
A locked on or steady illumination of the mpu red led indicates a few different problems. First could be no 5 or 12 bolts reaching the mpu to activate the reset section for booting up. Can also be a bad transistor on mpu reset section. IIRC Q1 thru Q5? Corrosion in the reset section also. Bad U9 IC or deeper problem. Can also possibility be that the sound board ribbon cables are dirty or misaligned or installed incorrectly.

Start measuring voltage test points at rectifier board. Be careful not to touch with bare hands as there is 200+ volts for the score displays there and on solenoid driver board.

Record all voltage test points for the rectifier, solenoid driver and mpu.
Report results here.
Compare results to pinwiki and look for discrepancies.

This will atleast get you started and possibility be able to get game to boot up.

0

#1708 3 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Quoted from Aflacjack:
Yeah yeah...some is ok

So you saying the original rectifier board is bad?

0

1

#1760 3 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Quoted from Pinball_Nate:
Ok, checked all my leaf-switches for contact with game off, there were some switches closed on the drop targets and the brand-new switches and mechs installed for the sling-shots. DOH!
The roll-over stars all looked ok.
I also noticed that the mechs were not aligned properly and would not allow the switches to remain open with the new rubber stretched in front of them, and that the arm for the slingshot was sitting too far back to be effective.
Sooooooooo, I pulled off both mechs, doweled up the holes and let the glue dry overnight. I'll be re-assembling soon and report back! Hope the leaf switches were the problem.
One question, with the new arms for the slingshots, how close should the rubber be to the rocker arm when it is in the "resting" position" I figure it should be as close as possible to allow for maximum rebound?
Nate

That's why you cannot go by the dimples. You need to dry fit the mechanicals before drilling pilot holes. Especially for the drop target banks.

0

#1761 3 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Quoted from Aflacjack:
Slowly getting there[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Looks nice. Did you run into any issues installing the wire guides? Also did you have to remove alot of clear coat from the star roll over inserts?

I have a cpr and an original to swap.

0

#1766 3 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Quoted from Aflacjack:
No issues so far. The wire guides were easy out and easy in. Working on the star rollovers next so I’ll let you know.

Thanks for the feedback. be careful with the star roll overs. Be patient if you need to remove any clear. You could end up lifting the clear from the inserts since they are plastic, the clear doesn't have much to bite on. I use very tiny files and sometime a very small Dremel bit.

0

#1809 3 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Quoted from Charles_Kline:
Repair log on Meteor:
The game would not boot, I'd get two flashes from the LED and that was it.
From my initial inspection of the boards I found the obviously leaking battery and a burnt up corner of the board with some previously replaced components.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
I begun cleaning the corrosion with vinegar and a brass scrub brush:
[quoted image]
The ram socket looked ok but I could see corrosion followed the trace up to the socket and sure enough that one pin was half chewed away.
[quoted image]
New socket:
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
After cleaning the corrosion and replacing the socket I would get 7 flashes on the MPU but it wouldn't complete the startup. I directed my attention to the burnt up corner which I read was the reset area.
Sure enough one of the resistors, R113, was failed open.
[quoted image]
Replaced the resistor (the one between the big turquoise ones) and it would fully startup after the 7 flashes. Glad to see all the displays work, they don't come on until it fully boots.

Congrats on the boot. Yes the displays will not fire up until boot cycle is complete, but you will see a slight glow behind the glass at first.

Only 2 flashes indicate faulty 5101 and I see your socket suffered corrosion damage. It looks like you fixed that? You replaced R113? For the 7th flash, the MPU is looking for 43V and I believe that does go to R113. I'm amazed that those old 5101's U8 and 13 still work, they look original.

0

#1811 3 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Quoted from Pinball_Nate:
Does adjusting the two set-screws on either side of the round bar where the platform that swings up to re-set the drop targets help at all to raise the drops higher above the pf line?
If you loosen those can you swing the bar in either direction to get more height and then re-set the screws??

On the memory targets there's a small tang that the drop targets sit on when reset. When the mem coil is activated, the coil pulls the tang inward by magnetism. I'm not sure how much you want to raise the targets but those tangs and slightly adjustable by bending them. Yours may have been bent downward at some point which is causing them to sit low. The only problem with bending the tangs upward is that the target may tend to slip off of the notch on the target.

If this is a CPR PF or one that has been cleared, the targets of course will appear to sit low. I compared the thickness of the CPR against my original and there was just about no difference between them but there may be some variations in the wood that was used for the repros?

0

1

#1812 3 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Just throwing this out there. A while back I asked the guys at pinballrescue.net to make Meteor plastics. I took a while but they have been done for a couple years now. They did a great job on them and they matched the colors very well. Their price is $118, not sure what that equates to in USD but might be the same and they take paypal IIRC.

Not sure of the current Covid restrictions or time dealys though, but worth a look if you need to replace all of your plastics.

0

1

#1825 3 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Quoted from Charles_Kline:
Glad you figured it out. BTW it looks like that the screws in the coil stop are in backwards. They should be screwed in from the stop side into the metal frame. You can see the marks from the castle washers.

I think it should have 2 external tooth lock washers and nuts on those screws as well.

0

#1846 3 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

your knocker is mia also.

0

1

#1854 3 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Pins 33 and 34 are not used. I have seen 16 pin and 17 pin cables on these games. If you have the 16 pin ribbons, leave pins 33 and 34 open on the sound board. Same with the J5 on MPU if it has 34 pins. Make sure the ribbon connectors are matched to the numbers on the connector, pin 1 from sound board to pin 1 on J5 and so on. . Be sure there is no gap between the 2 ribbon connectors.

Also inspect the ribbon where it mates with the connector, if 1 wire breaks or dislodges, no workie. I'm pretty sure Weebly has replacements for these.

0

#1856 3 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Quoted from Pinball_Nate:
Thanks, I will get this into place and report back, it seems like this is making my game act up, I will inspect the wires, although they seem very hard to diagnose since they are very thin and coated with the plastic "ribbon". Urgh.
I do have 17 pin cables.
Nate

Besides a visual inspection, if you have some new .100 header pin strips that you haven't used yet, place them into the connectors on each end and test with VOM. If your meter has a continuity test option with an audible sound, that would be the best, if not I suggest you buy the Fluke 117 for pin work.

0

2

#1859 3 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Check and see is trough/outsole switch is stuck closed.

0

#1904 3 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Quoted from Pinbub:
I finally rejoined the club today. I got my first pin, a Meteor, when I was 13 years old in 1982. I stupidly traded it around 1986 for a Space Duel Video game. I've been on the hunt ever since. Today I picked one up that boots and plays but will need a lot of work. I plan on taking it all the way!

I probably would have done the same. Space duel was a cool game but I was lousy at it lol.

0

2

#1933 3 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Quoted from lowbeau67:
Can anyone post a high def image of the stenciled
Meteor on the back of cabinet. I've seen this on
a lot of meteors and I'd like to paint it on mine.
Figured I can use my cameo to make stencil.

Mine is too beat to take an image. Email Jeff at Pinball Pimp. He makes stencils for many games including Meteor. He made me some custom one offs for me in the past and also some replacement that I FD up.

He made the Star Trek font for me a few years back. The Enterprise was from a partial cab stencil that I had left over and I tweaked it with some red and yellow. EBD as well. And fairly cheap.

File174 (resized).jpg

File196 (resized).jpg

0

#1949 3 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Quoted from semicolin:
Oh my goodness! This is amazing! The last couple of years have been fantastic for Meteor, with a new software release running 7 digits on the original board and now your complete modern re-code!
I can't wait to give this a try. I hate to ask, but will there be a version that will work for people who have installed 7-digit displays in their game?

I agree, I love this re-code and the sounds. Now I have to learn how to do this since I have 2 Meteors to restore.

0

1

#1950 3 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Quoted from lowbeau67:
I've looked but can't find the color of the
red on the cabinet. I had it written down and
lost it. Can anybody help? Thx. I remember
it maybe being a duplicolor type.

I would pull one of the coin door trims and look at the paint that hasn't faded and get a bunch of red color samples from different paint mfrs. and try to match.

0

#1973 3 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Quoted from Jaymach1:
And a word of advice from experience. Buy some new star rollover buttons. Most of them come with the negative print of the button part. Use that negative print to fill the insert before you clear coat. If you get any clear in the insert the button won't work properly and it will be a disaster to sand each groove.
[quoted image]

I have bought a few replacements and never received the negative print. I have seen them still in nos playfields though. I wish cpr used them when they put the clear on.

When putting clear down, do you pull the negative out before or after the clear dries?

0

1

#1984 3 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Quoted from PantherCityPins:
Add another Meteor to the resurrection list. I got a project machine from a buddy of mine, he nabbed it out of a warehouse. No idea when it last worked, probably sometime in the 80s from the look of the machine. The rectifier board was completely hacked and corroded so it was replaced with a rottendog board. I repinned all the connectors to that board with fresh housings. That improved things but the MPU still would not boot. Turns out there were several chips on the board with rusty legs and at least two legs broken off inside the sockets. Instead of paying for the original board to be repaired (with an unknown price tag), I opted for the Altek MPU board. Wow, I have to say I'm impressed with that product. It was shipped to my house in 3 days, set the dipswitches and Meteor is alive! I did have the wonky sound issue at first but resetting the game memory on the Altek fixed that. Overall, everything seems to be working ok, a few switch adjustments and some fresh rubber and we are good to go!

That's awesome. And not even any locked coils is amazing. I love bringing old games back to life.

0

5

#1988 3 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

I plan to open a Pinside shop for the sale of tech cards and labels for various games. Since these were just done I wanted to offer this to the club right away.

These are very accurate replicas of the Meteor tech cards and warning stickers with some enhancements. I had these printed on heavier stock than the original flimsy paper were. 3 of the cards are specific to Meteor and the rest are generic to Stern MPU-200 games. List includes:

Meteor Self Test Display Numbers (mounted in cabinet right side front)

MPU Switch Settings/ Meteor Switch Assignment (Back Box)

Series Switches and Positions (Back Box)

Grounding Boards Warning (Back Box)

Self Test (Back Box)

Ground Connection Label (Back Box)

Stern 16-B Transformer Wiring Connection Instructions (Cabinet Floor Behind Transformer)

QC Checklist(Under Playfield)

Fuse ID 1.25A Slo Blo Fuse (Under Playfield)

Fuse ID Chart (Rectifier Board Mounting Plate)

High Voltage Warning Sticker, QTY 6 (Score Display Trays and 1 for Rectifier Board Shield)

High Voltage Sticker (Solenoid Driver Safety Shield)

Self Test/Memory Clear (Coin Door)

18 Pieces total.

The price is $45 and postage is included for USA. International okay.

I also have complete sets for F2K, EBD, Xenon, Flash Gordon and Bally Star Trek. Seawitch coming soon.

P4170001 (resized).JPG

P4170002 (resized).JPG

P4170003 (resized).JPG

P4170004 (resized).JPG

P4170005 (resized).JPG

P4170006 (resized).JPG

P4170007 (resized).JPG

P4170008 (resized).JPG

P4170009 (resized).JPG

P4170010 (resized).JPG

0

#1991 3 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Quoted from Coyote:
Nice! Does your Meteor DIP chart take into slochar 's updated ROM? (I was going to do this for the DIp switch chart, as I wanted to have a copy with the new functions on it.. )

No, just all original. I could make them if you supply the revisions. I'm not familiar with Scott's update but would like to know.

0

#2031 3 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Quoted from rcbrown316:
I just ordered the last meteor pf cpr had in stock today. Are you saying they are not clear coated? Or not clear coated to your liking?

I bought one in the beginning. I was on the "boutique" list from the start. Beside the missing score values, mine is very nice. I matched up to a stripped original and all of the major cut-outs were spot on as was the thickness of the wood. Clear is perfect.

0

#2040 3 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Quoted from rcbrown316:
Thanks F2K. It looks like the score values are on this one, Were they all missing?
RB

AFAIK

0

#2058 3 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Quoted from scooter75:
Thanks for responding. If you can show what is on each switch that would be awesome. My game had wires hanging and a switch stack from a bally game. Didnt have the little caps. trying to order the parts I need and then see what the correct wiring is. I think as I do my swaps from now on Im going to start posting detailed wiring photos for others. I try to take them before the swap but this was messed from the start. Thanks again.

Sling shots do not have a cap installed. Not necessary. Should have have 1 diode per sling shot. Pair of switches wired parallel for side.

0

#2059 3 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Quoted from Lovef2k:
Sling shots do not have a cap installed. Not necessary. Should have have 1 diode per sling shot. Pair of switches wired parallel for side.

Per sid3

0

#2062 3 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Quoted from scooter75:
There is a switch with a diode and a switch with the arco .05 cap - the orange disc cap. I attached the picture of the mess I have. If I am wrong about that being a cap, i humbly beg forgiveness.
[quoted image]

Yes that IS a cap and I stand corrected. My meteor has caps but I can't help with pics at this time, all my games are not set up right now. I can only lift coin door and peek inside for now.

0

#2070 2 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Quoted from FlipperFanatic:
Recently aquired a very nice Meteor. Looks great next to Galaxy and F2K.
Looking for the fabled Stern unicorn...need a left sided slingshot arm. I know I can replace with a Bally but I'm kinda OCD and wanna try to stay original as possible.
PM me if you have one for sale.

Do you need to replace a missing one, or is the one in there very sloppy?

0

1

#2095 2 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Quoted from rcbrown316:
Half assed repro? Is there someone else's repro you would prefer or would you prefer this repro wasn't available at all? I'm fairly certain based on my experience there is a certain level of variance in all the original machines that came off the Stern production line. I for one am thankful I have the option to restore an original or obtain a brand new pf for these 40+ year old machines. It appears there are many that feel the same way.

I mostly agree, it's better than no repro at all. I'm a little torn about the quality issues but in the end when you are playing the game, you don't really think about artwork flaws or colors.

Meteor was in the CPR "boutique zone" for years and I was on the list from almost the beginning so I was thrilled when CPR sent me an email. True, they could have spent a little more time with the graphics. I was more upset about the back glass and then they offered the green version after I had already bought the first release.

0

#2106 2 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Quoted from DaveSpade73:
Nevermind. I see what it's for

If the fuse clips seem weak, replace the fuse holder. Loose clips can cause heat build up and pull extra current which can cause fuse to blow.

0

#2107 2 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Quoted from DaveSpade73:
Nevermind. I see what it's for

A bad coil diode can also make the PF coil fuse blow...

0

#2109 2 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Quoted from DaveSpade73:
Replacing that one fuse fixed everything.

It should. Its for all of the coils on pf except flippers. They do blow occasionally and I don't know why. Play a few games in a row and see if the fuse clips get warm.

0

#2139 2 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Quoted from nocreditdot:
Finally finished my meteor restore/playfield swap. It went from a wretch to a pretty nice example. Also did the 7 digit conversion.
[quoted image]

Sa-weeeet! I bought Swinks coin drop bezels in red, now I gotta get the red beehive. I didn't start my resto yet but it's on the back burner.

0

#2141 2 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Quoted from rcbrown316:
PBL has the 600 coils. I just got them for my seawitch a week ago. Also spot on with the resistor. my SW had a smorgasbord of wrong coils and the upper left flipper resistor was open so someone bypassed it and put a 500 coil up there to boot. The drop center bank drop targets were just dropping in fear. I moved the working resistor array from the upper right flipper over to the left and put the 600 coil in. Everything is good now.

My seawitch has WMS flippers in it now, got it that way.

0

#2143 2 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Quoted from rcbrown316:
The assemblies or just the bats?

complete assemblies, all 4

0

#2149 2 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Quoted from Charles_Kline:
You have 4 flippers on your Meteor?

Haha no please read post 2141

0

#2150 2 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Quoted from rcbrown316:
Interesting. Old style or wpc style?

Not sure game is buried and I have not looked inside for years. Hopefully same as HS so I can use the parts.

0

#2152 2 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Quoted from Charles_Kline:
Lol why are we talking about a seawitch in the meteor thread.
//<![CDATA[
window.__mirage2 = {petok:"75417a3f4da55f9c49e739f11a89b4b1e7182fd1-1626631634-1800"};
//]]>

Is there a seawitch club? I never looked.

0

#2154 2 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Quoted from slochar:
Yep....
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/any-seawitch-fans-on-pinside/

Only 7 years ago lol

0

#2155 2 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Quoted from rcbrown316:
Interesting. Old style or wpc style?

I peeked inside the witch today to look at the flippers. So 3 of them have original base with WMS cranks, plungers, and bats. One has a WMS base that's like the one s in my HS, so early wms? Sys 11. The funny, or maybe not so funny thing is with the longer bats, the ball flies across the pf and has gotten stuck above the plastic more than once. They also make the game too easy to play. Being it's from the Jersey shore area, I'm thinking this was Barry White's work. It also had the backbox type transformer setup mounted to the floor of the cab in place of the 16B trans.

0

#2157 2 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Quoted from rcbrown316:
haha barry white. holy cow. haven't heard that name in a while. I bought a shadow from him that was a total disaster.

This was a CL buy about 7 years ago. By the seller's explanation, I came to that conclusion. I'm not 100% on that but wouldn't be surprised. The cab has some wicked planking and has been painted all over with a brush.

0

#2158 2 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Quoted from Lovef2k:
This was a CL buy about 7 years ago. By the seller's explanation, I came to that conclusion. I'm not 100% on that but wouldn't be surprised. The cab has some wicked planking and has been painted all over with a brush.

Might be a Sandy victim...

0

1

#2167 2 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Quoted from lowbeau67:
Loose wire on my coin door
harness. Putting my meteor
back together. I think this red /yellow wire attaches on the credit switch on the right side of diode. Is this correct? Thx
[quoted image]

The two red/yl wires should be soldered on the same tab, non banded side of diode.

0

#2186 2 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Quoted from Coyote:
Okay, with the recent talk of drop target names, and with Meteor my next PF swap coming up, added to the fact I needed to clean some things using the sonic cleaner, I got out the original drops that came out of my Meteor and got them cleaned up. The replacements were bought new, and ar ethe ones that have the large lip on the top of them.
When I got my game, the rockets were all original. But the 'METEOR' drops had some replacements in the set. Only one looks original, my "M" target. However, I am not entirely sure it IS original, as it is different from the rockets. Are all the METEOR targets supposed to be like this, for the 'memory' feature?
[quoted image]
In case you can't see the echos of the text, the one on the left is from the "3" rocket, and the one on right is the "M" target. They are identical, except for the long lead-catch on the "M".
I am going to need at least 3 of these, at MOST 6, if these are not meant to be on the game.
Edit: The lightning bolt is 1 of two obvious replacements - they are identical to the "M", just with the bolt on the front of them. A third one (not pictured) was one with the lip that a previous operator actually ground off to make it fit.

This is something I never noticed until you brought it up. I have a hoard of NOS targets here. All have the long catch. Hooded and tombstone or chicklet as some refer these to. Unfortunately I have no E or O tombstone targets and only 1 E hooded target.

Now I'm wondering if these will even work. I bought them from a guy in New Zealand several years ago along with a bunch of other nos stern targets.

16284473520145786414540798320066 (resized).jpg

16284473711896142202224477239085 (resized).jpg

16284473985245501724116719718024 (resized).jpg

16284474172612719233992282984183 (resized).jpg

0

1

#2189 2 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Sorry about my foot in the pic lol. Yeah I smashed my toe like 6 months ago!

I'm curious to see how how the Swinks hold up in the game over time.

0

1

#2196 2 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Quoted from Mathazar:
Taking a small break from the CPR playfield swap and I'm starting to look into what I need in the cabinet of the project Meteor I picked up a few weeks ago. Pretty much all the parts seem to be there, but the knocker looks odd.
From what I can tell, aside from the wrong coil (I have a new, proper N-26-1200 in my parts bin), everything looks correct except for the plunger. Shouldn't there be a plastic tip at the end of the plunger to hit the strike plate? Unfortunately, the Stern parts catalog for that part isn't particularly helpful in that regard. Marco's has a blow-out Classic Stern knocker diagram that doesn't seem to show the complete parts list (no spring, washer, or e-clips on the plunger) but it does show some sort of tip at the end of the plunger that mine is missing. However, I'm having great difficulty in finding that plunger part or an equivalent online.
Any suggestions? What do your Classic Stern knocker plungers look like? Could a classic Bally knocker plunger work in its place?
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Yes there should be a nylon or plastic tip that protrudes about a half of an inch. check the cab floor, you may find it and can crimp it back in. I went and looked at my 2 Meteor and a Seawitch. The witch is missing the knocker and I can swear that I had and can't find now, great! LOL

0

#2203 2 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Quoted from Mathazar:
I've tried retro-brightening some white (now yellowed) chime boxes for my Mata Hari and it didn't do much. Tried it multiple times using the manufacturers directions, trying natural sunlight first and then a dedicated UV light, not much improvement at all (and it was messy). If you're successful with whitening your targets, I'd be very keen to know what brand stuff you used and the process that worked. I'd be willing to try it again.....meanwhile, I try not to look at my yellowed chime boxes.

It might be the peroxide. You need to use a very strong one. Like the hair dressers use. Also it needs to be stored in the dark. Any sunlight will weaken it.

0

#2205 2 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Quoted from play_pinball:
I just retrobrited the coin entry slots on this door. It took 3 full days in the sun to really see results.
In retrospect I should’ve done the button too
[quoted image]

Looks nice, I cheated by painting my coin entries w white Fusion paint. 7 years later they are still bright white

0

1

#2220 2 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Quoted from bigguybbr:
Got a little play time on the Meteor while messing with my camera set up.

Love it! I gotta do this to my Meteor!

0

1

#2231 2 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Quoted from lowbeau67:
So I've got my ground braid all ran
and everything shows continuity except for
shooter rod. Am I missing a piece that would
fit in the hole for rod? Not sure .
Lockbar receiver removed as I have to have a small
part welded by my buddy.
[quoted image]

The shooter rod itself is isolated from the cab by the beehive on the Sterns. I can't think of a way to ground it. I would think since the inner plate is grounded, you should be fine.

0

1

#2236 2 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Quoted from Coyote:
Isn't there a coil sleeve in there as well?

Not on a beehive shooter.

0

#2242 2 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Quoted from Mathazar:
Speaking of which....the project Meteor I picked up and am currently restoring has only 1 test switch on the coin door (amongst many other missing parts), and the schematic references only 1 test switch. Yet I've seen pictures of Meteor coin doors with two switches.
What's the deal there? At first I thought maybe someone ran the volume control pot from the speaker location to the coin door for easier access, but I've seen Meteor pix with 2 switches on the coin door plus the volume pot still at the location below the speaker.
[quoted image][quoted image]

I think the coin door with only 1 cherry switch is from a MPU-100 game or maybe even a EM? I have seen different variations of coin doors on Meteor. Some with only 2 bolt holes on trim and hinge. Some with 3 holes. Some with 2 coin entries, some with 3 which makes a little sense since the SBA coin was released in '79. Sterns coin door harnesses usually have the game title on the tag, look for that.

Other weird thing I noticed between 2 Meteors here, one has inset coin door trim, so the trim is flush with cab front. Other is top mounted above the door opening.

I have not seen any Stern doors with the volume pot attached, always on cab floor.

0

#2250 2 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Quoted from bigguybbr:
I know it works on the Alltek and the original. I don't think it works on a Weebly. The barakandl is a Weebly right?

Yes it is. I would ask Andrew.

0

#2259 2 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Quoted from barakandl:
Older boards with through hole parts usually have a solder blob jumper for A12 near J5. It is labeled on the silk screen. IRQ is still absent from J5 on I think all versions except a few early ones that there are only small amounts of out in the wild.
When I did the switch to SMT parts I did a complete reroute of all tracks on the board and decided I did not want to route A12 jumper option because did not expect it to ever be used.... whoops.
I just ordered boards earlier this week so it is going to be a few months before I do another MPU update. I will keep this in mind tho. Coming soon adding connectors to make it easier to connect a scorebit.

Any updates on NVRAM availability or any -54 rectifier boards in the near future?

0

#2261 2 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Quoted from barakandl:
Cypress semiconductor shut down their factory that made the core NV chip during covid. Now we are feeling the ripple. I can't get the chip, at least not at a price that does not fit my $15ea price point. When they where still under the RAMTRON brand the first reel I bought was $1850. I got a quote recently for $14000 for a reel. Supply and demand.
The source I normally get them can buy direct from Cypress. They are telling me the lead time is around December currently and it has already gotten pushed back once.
To keep new boards in stock I am using NV chips that where pulled out of ricoh copy machines. The pulls are coming from probably the most professional people in the business of salvaging chips. They have huge factory where all the do is pull valuable chips from E Waste western companies dump on China. I don't really want to assemble the NVRAM modules with a used chip. The MPUs and etc I assemble with a salvage pull I at least get to burn in test. I have not had any issues. In fact back in like 2015 I sold around 2k used FM1608 and I never heard of one going bad.... but now starting to ramble.
I was getting super burned out around the start of the year and had to switch to SMT to keep me from doing assemble 12 hours a day. The SMT switch makes boards like the -54 rectifier board a lot less attractive since I can't automate assemble of much of any of it. I do have a valid design on the PCB. Maybe I will do a kit, but I feel like I have a lot other lower hanging fruit to get first. Ie... just ripped out every little board from a gtb system 3 game for recration, filters, diode, drivers, optos, etc.
PS prepare for shortages of MOLEX parts. Seems like I am having trouble with certain part numbers. India factory probably shutdown for a while.

Thanks for taking the time to update. I heard a factory in China that made an IC that goes into just about everything, including autos, had burnt down. Relocated and that burnt down! IDK how true that is?

I have already noticed the shortage of the Molex housings. Especially the 24 pin .062 that is very common on Bally/Stern games. The last time I looked on Big Daddy's site, he had no .062 at all. The only good thing is that if not burnt, you can reuse them, they just look ugly but you can change the pins at least.

I would be in for the -54 kit. They seem rather simple.

0

#2263 2 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Quoted from barakandl:
Cypress's NVRAM factory is in Thailand. I think FeRAM is a special process.
I can't buy the molex 26-48-1241 24pin cut to size headers, at least not at a good price in bulk quantity I need. TTI's lead time is 13 weeks on that part number... blah. Currently ripping the locking tab off of the CH3.96A series headers.

We appreciate what you have done and are still doing for the hobby. I was referring to the 24 pin plug connector, but yet the KK style are getting scarce.

0

1

#2304 2 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Quoted from lowbeau67:
First swap going good but found something I forgot about when I did initial teardown 10 months ago.
My right lower flipper is missing the switch that engages the upper r flipper.
It looks like this was hacked up top to work. Does this look legit or should u rewire with proper double switch.
Thx. Beau
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

I would replace all EOS switches while you have the PF out of the cab. The upper flipper has it's own EOS and can run directly from the power wire coming from the lower flipper. Some guys like it this way as it takes away the lag between the upper and lower flipper, but this might cause a larger current draw and make the GI lamps dim for a split second. It shouldn't be a problem if your power supply is healthy.

0

1

#2313 2 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

I have been using Stamps.com for first class mail, since the USPS site doesn't offer first class option. I found that sending a small bubble mailer that weighs 2 oz or less only runs about a dollar and change. So a promo key FOB should be just about the same price. The only kicker is that there usually isn't a tracking option on this service. They also have a discount option on UPS services.

0

#2375 2 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Quoted from Mathazar:
With the middle post issue behind me, I moved on to the METEOR DT bank issues:
#1 - the O and R wouldn't drop in the self test but do drop fine in gameplay and they reset ok
#2 - random targets in this bank don't stay up...one or more targets fall after every reset.
#1 was easy and my fault after reassembling the bank when I cleaned it and put in new targets. The two memory solenoids for O and R were mis-aligned - took them out and screwed them in straight. Works again!
For #2, resetting the bank by hand on my bench worked consistently well, but not in the game. I surmised that the targets were not getting enough height on solenoid-activated resets and therefore could not consistently rest on the fingers of the memory solenoids and instead, they'd just drop. There didn't appear to be an inordinate amount of play on the reset bar, but taking a closer look there are definite worn-in grooves from the DT arms rubbing against it for more than 40 years.
[quoted image]
My solution for that was to secure a piece of rigid PETG plastic (1/32" thick) on the bar to give the drop targets a bit more height during reset and more of an opportunity to latch onto the memory solenoid fingers.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
Works like a champ so far. Ran Self Test burn-in for 50 cycles, no more random falling targets!

It's time that somebody started to reproduce these parts. If this were stainless it would last for decades.

I have seen some significant wear on stern drop targets.

0

1

#2381 2 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Quoted from RGarriott:
Hey guys got a quick question. I finishing up my meteor, when I got it it was was pretty bad, most lights didnt work so on so forth. I redid and cleared the playfield, installed a new power supply, redid some connectors, pops and the drops. Installed the Weebly anti flicker boards and fired it up.
Surpringly everything looked good except the knocker was locking on due to the rod getting wedged between the screw head and the plate, but easy fix. Lights looked good except the #1 rocket lights still flicker, need to figure that out and the flippers dont work. When I press the right flipper it lights the shoot again insert, so i need to figure that out, and the left does nothing.
Any Ideas before i dig in?

Meteor is known to still have some flicker lamps even with anti-flicker boards. It was covered earlier in this thread. You can try adding a 470 ohm resistor across that lamp.

Flippers not working could be bad relay. See if the relay clicks when running coil test. If could also be a power interruption on the PF somewhere or from backbox to the PF. Follow the daisy chain with a meter to verify power. Insert lamp lighting when pressing flipper is most likely a short somewhere, may have happened when replacing connectors so double check your work.

0

1

#2440 2 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Quoted from Mathazar:
This is what I got, but holy cow did the price jump. When I bought these a few months ago, they were .59/ea. Now they're $4.99/ea.
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/265-5003-03

That's insane! I would bet that PBR has the same spring for less than a buck each.

0

#2468 2 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Quoted from SlapDrain:
Upon further inspection that is a 7 digit score display. Can i safely swap that with the player 4 display and get the proper alignment back for the credits/ball count?

You can if it's a 6 dig display, which is what was used from factory. But some mods have to be done in order to run the 7 dig in the player's locations. See if there's a jumper to turn off the commas if using in match/ball display you don't want the comma. Most of these newer LED displays have that option.

0

#2481 2 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Quoted from cookpins:
Ordered, thanks!
Another thing I’m trying to figure out is why these rocket and meteor lights are always on when I start a new game. I don’t think either are correct. When in attract mode the lights cycle independently as they should. Could this be a due to setting on my switches?
[quoted image]

There's probably a short to ground somewhere in the game. I had an F2K where both of the outlane/special lamps were lit solid and I found a short on the coin door. Weird things happen that don't make sense when you have a short. Try pulling the coin door harness plug after starting a game and see if they go out. If not, start looking elsewhere. A short in the switch matrix may also cause this as well. Did you do any work recently, if so, go back and check everything you touched.

0

#2515 2 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Quoted from slochar:
Some of the bushings have been coming longer so you don't need it in those cases.
I much prefer the offset type anyway since they don't tend to snap at the weak point and have updated most of my early games to use the later bracket style.
I would like to find a new source of the stepped plungers the older mechs used.

What was the purpose of the stepped plunger? I don't have a diagram of the type 2 flipper assembly but it seems the A197 is the same part number for both style plungers.

I have some NOS base plates for the type 1 flippers but if I can't use the original plunger, what's the point? Would you use the old style plates or just the later ones? Is there any difference in game play between the two styles?

0

#2604 1 year ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Quoted from DakotaMike:
In the club, thanks to a fellow Pinsider from Minnesota. Meteor is in solid shape, and only very minor wear on the pf.
[quoted image]
Immediately put it on location at The Pinball Room in Sioux Falls. Had a broken meteor drop, but otherwise no other problems so far.
The last comment I'll make is, man these Stern spinners rip! Even shots that aren't completely clean and smooth can still rack up the spins. Crazy good spinners.

Stern spinners are the best.

0

#2676 1 year ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

I take small pieces of Mylar and place them under the plastics where any screw head is present. Especially on sling plastics. It seems to help.

0

#2697 1 year ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:
I was tired of my Meteor playing like crap so I gave in and pulled the bank again, this time intent on scrubbing it clean (like I've admitted just needs done by default at this point for all the other Sterns I've touched). I had "rebuilt" it multiple times (read: DID NOT CLEAN) and it seemed fine outside the game, but was wildly inconsistent in the game: half dropping targets, repeatedly resetting because some didn't want to stay up, etc.
In addition to the overall filth, I noticed I only had 3 screws and the entire assembly wasn't firmly secured to the playfield. Obviously very, very necessary. All cleaned up and firmly secured, it finally functions properly again.
I have a CPR playfield that was touched up and cleared around 7 months ago. I feel like I'm about ready to swap it but curious from those who have done it, is meteor one of the easiest swaps ever? It seems like it should be..?
Also my upper left plastic was broken and had to be mylar'd back together. Anyone have a decent old one laying around after buying new ones? I don't think this one is commonly broken.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

I don't think any CPR PF swap is easy. Some easier than others, yes, but.

The dimples are not reliable most of the time and this is huge for drop target banks. These need to be installed in the correct location otherwise you can have issues with them rubbing when they drop or resetting. And since Meteor has 4 DT banks, it won't be straight forward. I had this issue with CPR's EBD and those drop banks.

0

#2729 12 months ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Quoted from swinks:
Sorry, just replied - time difference
Apparently the history is that the original molds were modded to hooded and PBR has that modded mold so the tombstone mold no longer exists.
The issue with the repro hooded ones is many they have too much flexi and bounce back and then forward before the tareget can drop - effectively bricking.
My repros a a replica of the original and are made of solid PA12 Nylon and have been performing well.

I have a set and can't wait to try them out.

0

#2730 10 months ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

While doing a Meteor swap I noticed 2 unused GI lamp spaces under the upper arch plastics. Does anybody know why and has anybody lit their's up? It looks fairly easy to add them in.

16883571170597652638327194317235 (resized).jpg

16883571401647324157222750970692 (resized).jpg

0

#2732 10 months ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Quoted from Mathazar:
Yep...I noticed the same when I restored my Meteor (CPR playfield). They were on my original playfield but not populated. I went ahead and populated them - looks good, I think!
[quoted image]
[quoted image]

Looks great. What leds did you choose?

0

#2733 10 months ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Anyone looking for a cpr pf?

0

1

#2735 10 months ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Quoted from Mathazar:
Thanks! I went with Comet retro warm white for GI and color matched the inserts. I also put in the Comet "animated" Fire LEDs (three), one behind each rocket trail on the backglass to make it look like the fire is burning.

Nice touch. Did you use the original style flippers or later version? I can't find plungers for the old style.

0

#2753 10 months ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Quoted from Foxxstone_80:
Update: the knocker works! It appears the SE9302 transitor worked fine as a replacement in Q3.
The knocker isn't near as loud as the one in my paragon though. I'll need to mess with the placement or maybe put a weaker spring in? I used a 10-135 general use spring.

Fwiw the sterns aren't as loud.

0

1

#2770 8 months ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Quoted from cookpins:
Thanks for the specifics steps, I'll pick up some spray primer as well then. For sanding, did you just use something like 80-120 to scuff them up a bit?

If you have a local powder coat place I would ask them to blast them for you. They should charge that much. I had a blast cabinet to do the coin door but wasn't big enough for the legs.

0

#2771 8 months ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Quoted from Lovef2k:
If you have a local powder coat place I would ask them to blast them for you. They should charge that much. I had a blast cabinet to do the coin door but wasn't big enough for the legs.

Shouldn't charge

0

#2916 80 days ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,925 6

Quoted from Foxxstone_80:
Remove the spinner. Make sure the ends aren't bent at a weird angle. Clean the ends with your favorite cleaner then with metal polish. Put the spinner back in. Apply a drop of lube on each end. You spinner is now "juiced". Enjoy.

Mollybendum (spelling?) works great for this. I have it in powder form and don't need much. My F2K spinners rip now

Meteor Club - "We will let you know when the danger is past"

By pinballholder

8 years ago

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