Wouldn't mind adding one to my permanent collection. Meteor was the first pin I've EVER played, broke, and helped fix. When I was 10.

Boom. Very easy. no tools needed, and takes like 20 mins. Definitely worth it as this game can be rolled rather easily.

http://xpinpinball.com/shop/catalog/7volution

Nice! I didn't know about these.

I converted mine to seven digits years ago, thanks to an extra wire and a Shabow custom rom. Great upgrade and highly recommended, whichever method you choose.

I see you have the hooded drops in the Meteor bank. Replacement drops with hoods, hot stamped or with decal, are readily available. The tombstone variety, like those in your number banks, are NLA and must be sought out in the used market. The tombstones drop better, in my experience.

FWIW, the original drops had decals, not hot stamped. Action Pinball sells replacement decals for Meteor drops and the spinner, but I am not impressed with the resolution. They aren't bad, they aren't good. They're simply OK, in my opinion. I need to make own one of these days. I have the Meteor spinner art on file and made my own sticker for that.

And, in case you missed this information, the Pinball Pimp now sells Meteor cabinet stencils.

Enjoy your Meteor.

One other note that has been mentioned elsewhere, but should be added to the club thread...

Stu has completed the art work for Meteor. There is no timetable that I am aware of for adding it to the CPR reproduction schedule, but the fact that the artwork has been completed is reason to hope for new PFs some year in the future. As I recall, he had another artist working on the BG and plastics, but that art work has not been completed, but I could be wrong.

I refuse to convert my meteor to seven digit displays. I want to be able to brag that I have a pinball machine I can roll over! I love drop targets, so Meteor satisfies my jones for them. On the other hand, the rectifier board is a big trouble spot for these machines. I've bought a replacement board, but been to chicken to replace my patched up one, because my soldering skills may not be up to the challenge.

I bought a whole set of new drops at the Allentown show. Of course, I had already bought the stickers. I'm not impressed with the sticker look.....

Enjoy your Meteor, and sign me up for the club!.

If I remember correctly, the one button takes you through each diagnostic/setting, the other changes the setting option if you're in a setting.

For example, if you're in the high score levels, the extra button changes the high score that you want set for that level.

On other games like ballys, the start button has this same function.

Sorry. That is not exactly right. Just checked this on my early stern. The button closest to the door is used to reset any of the settings, audits back to zero. The button farthest from the door changes the setting or diagnostic you're in.

The credit button serves the same purpose as ballys

Rather than getting 7 digit displays, people should simply set up their games much tougher.

An example... I got a Firepower2, it was so easy I rolled it first game. Hardly a challenge for anyone to play. No point owning a game like that. I removed the mini post rubbers down by the out lanes, and now it's a drain monster. Just one simple change made the game a keeper.

If you find you're rolling Meteor constantly, I would remove those massive star posts in the outlanes. Thatll sort out the men from the boys. . Then if you STILL keep rolling it, get 7 digit displays.

I love my Meteor BTW ... One of the classic Sterns of its era.

rd

I had to make my Galaxy tougher. Doing so stopped the easy rollovers cold; however, I like the seven digit scoring on Meteor. There's a difference between it and Galaxy, as far as evoking a desire within me to make it harder, but I can't put my finger on it.

Meteor has a fun spinner shot. If I remember correctly, Scott Charles tweaked the performance of his spinner until he was getting 100k for a single rip through (don't quote me on that number, but his results were impressive). How tuned is your spinner? The best I've noticed on mine is 81k; time for a tune up?

I bought a bottle of dry slick at pagg. That will get that spinner ripping!

What bottle of dry slick? Lol.

Did you use it all already? Dude you "rip it" way to often!

Mount a contact switch behind your start button and then wire it to a coin shoot switch. Thus, when you press the start button it also adds a credit.

Or just set replay to something stupid low.

Alltek has free play for Ballys, but not for Sterns.

Easiest thing to do is set the game to 40 credits, then set it to "replay", then set the first replay level at 10,000 points. Set the second one to 100,000 points. Then manually click up 40 credits. You will never run out of credits.

rd

When the quarter goes through the coin mech, the final tiny wire switch at the bottom drops when the quarter hits it, and it closes the switch. If you wire something up to that, then it's up to you how and when you close the switch manually, or like jabbles said -- automagically by piggy-backing another switch. Just pick the switch that still adds credits (with or without a mech) and is still wired up.

-mof

Just do this.

I have a real nice one I need to sell if anyone wants to join the club.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/fs-really-nice-meteor-in-northeast-pa

I'm kinda in the club, been working on a meteor for the past month or so...still haven't played the game. Got a little more work on the playfield, but at least the spinner is done

IMG_20150802_202450.jpg

This is the game that got me started, I love it.

Instead of spending 300+ on 7 digit displays, just get the divide by 10 roms.

Pulled the pop bumper mylar off using heat on mine. Worked fine until I got impatient then I lifted some paint near the edge. Did not try the freeze method.

This is the second time in this club. Meteor was the first pin I owned. That one was a mess when I bought it and should have been parted but I bit the bullet and got it decent again before I sold it. I plan to keep this one for awhile.

Also, does the new roms fix the bug? I think it has something to do with the bonus.

Friend needs to do some repairs on his meteor. I know its an older stern but is there a repair guide avail for this system? link or pdf?

Thanks

Nice looking machine Seth. Its making me antsy.

New club member here. Having some sound board problems. I think it's related to the connector. Can someone post a pic of the ribbon cable sound board connector?

I'm now a member having bought this exact machine. Put a refurbished mpu board in it and it plays great.

Jabbles180 fixed the drops and a bunch of other issues. He removed the outlane posts and it plays like a demon. I have to do something nice for that guy for everything he's done!

I fixed the sound problem by swapping out one of the 5101 chips on the cpu board for a 5101P-1 instead of the 5101L-1 chip that was the game when acquired so no need for pics anymore.

Also fixed a non-working memory drop target by replacing Q8 with a new TIP 102.

Such an amazing pin!!! It will be staying around here for while!

I recently obtained a meteor, and have mismatching flipper coils.
The manual has 34-4500 for all 3 flippers.
I have 34-5050's for the lower flippers (kinda soft) and a 34-4500 for the upper flipper (IMO, too strong)

Any recommendations for the upper flipper or does everyone use a 34-4500?

For the flippers, you need both sets of numbers in the manual for the coils (one pair for each winding...in this case, I think the 34-4500 refers to the hold coil). The lower are J-25-500/34-4500, these are pretty common and available at Pinballlife etc. The top flipper coil is a J-25-600/34-4500 and is a little more difficult to source. When I redid mine, I left the original in place as it still worked. Also, many of these shipped with a 1 ohm 5W resistor in series with the top flipper coil, I replaced with a 1 ohm, 10W. Some may not have had it and you can adjust the EOS switch to lower the power on the top flipper if you think the plastics are in danger.

Will adding a resistor to the top flipper reduce the power? If so, how/where is it wired? That flipper can be a wet noodle and still be perfectly capable of doing its job. I am tired of breaking drop targets.