Edited-

I have a prototype or sample JD and an NOS populated production left ramp. Although the entrance optos are indeed in different locations, the proto or sample also has a wider opto bracket than the production as the lower part of the ramp is wider as well. Otherwise I would think it would work in either spot as the harness is long enough.

Looking at it carefully now, either would require the different opto bracket to relocate it. If you aren't supplying the brackets, then holes in the proper location would be enough to transfer them although they are riveted on.

Dredd ramp update... Good day today. After spending nearly 2 weeks to redesign a platen specifically for the Judge Dredd big ramp, after an initial forming failure today, on my second try after making a few tweaks to both the platen and the forming process, I successfully formed the monster. I have rough cut the ramp out of the form and will spend tomorrow hand finishing the first one. Once it is finished, I will be test fit all the pieces in the game. Once I am satisfied with the fits, I will spend a couple days just forming and rough cutting out the pieces. Once I have a bunch ready I will start finishing them. With the loss of our favorite resin for molds and the difficulty with the big ramp, this has been the toughest project so far....but feels real good to be at this point.

Awesome update. Thank you!

Awesome news! Thank you sooooo much for all your time and hard work! I can’t wait to place my order! Going to be a great year for pinball thanks to you!

This is fantastic news! My ramps are all wasted on my machine. As soon as these are available I can finally get it together and play it.

I'm putting together the Judge Dredd I got dissasembled and I'm not sure im missing something in the zone where the wireform connect with the ramps.

Should something be in those two screwholes? And is there a vertical hex post between the plastic ramps?

Thank you in advance for your help.

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Hopefully this helps.

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Yes, everything clear now

Thank you

Sun came out so I decided to take break from ramp making and post some photos of the last two Dredd pieces. I like to focus my efforts on the harder parts of the project first....Obviously for this one it is the big ramp. I am finishing big ramps now and will likely work all the way through what I have formed and then get into the production of the other pieces. Couple hundred more ramps to finish!

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Awesome news! Please keep us posted when we can order them all! Thank you again for all your hard work for this pin!!!

QUESTION! Can I disable Super Game from the settings in JD? Or is it just necessary to pull the contacts from the button to disable that functionality?

Not sure it can done by the settings but certainly you could disconnect the switch. By doing this the machine will eventually throw up an error though because the switch hasn't been activated in so many plays.

Just unplug it from the button but leave the wires connected to the switch.

Cleaning out some boxes of games from the past

Whole pile of Dredd Stuff here

What you see is what you get

Everything will need a good cleaning

take everything for 75$ shipped
Don’t like the price - make a reasonable offer

USA shipping only

Thanks

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S O L D

Hi All.
I have just acquired a Judge Dredd.
I was sold it with an intermittent upper right flipper problem.
Turned out the flipper was not working at all and it was the fuse on the fliptronic II board.
The pin seems to be playing okay. I'm not up to speed with the rules at the moment.
The odd thing is that the game starts in superplay (2 balls) mode even when I press the standard start button.
All optos are okay.
I opted to reset to factory settings.
Any ideas please?

Trough optos/receivers/wiring/plugs or too many balls in there? Should be six.

Do the 2 balls enter the shooter lane at the same time? I had this issue with mine and got an acrylic ball trough liner and that solved the issue.

Took out a ball. Working OK now.
Is there a setting to clear out balls in the menu?. I couldn't find one.

It's Time to start shipping some Dredds!

I will begin notifying those on my list later today. If you know you are on my list and no longer interested, please let me know. I still have a lot of ramps to make, but I have a good deal already to ship. What people order will help me adjust production to fit the needs.

Regardless of where you are on my list, if you want to let me know what you want, I would appreciate that a lot, again so I can adjust production.

The first thing I noticed when removing the ramps from my own game is that they were very fragile. I immediately made the decision to make all of the Dredd pieces out of my thicker (.150") plastic for greater strength and durability. I think the most fragile was the big ramp. When I removed it I had to be careful to support it as I thought it would just break in my hands! In addition to making them out of thicker plastic, I also corrected some items and where I could, I left more plastic for strength, particularly at mounting points. Although I ended up destroying my own ramps in the molding process, they were in very good shape for making the molds. The only actual breakage I had was at the big ramp right side exit. The mounting tab had broken off and this is one point where I left more plastic for strength. All in all I am very pleased with the results of all of the pieces.

One other thing I noted that I would like everyone to check when assembling the pieces. On the Big ramp at the center Exit (to Dead World) the two brackets at the exit I found to be a little tight with respect to how they fit, specifically the top edges where they meet the underside of the top edge of the ramp. I checked the fit against the original ramp and it is was also tight. Once the pieces are riveted to the ramp, I feel they will put additional stress on the top edge of the ramp. So, I will be shaving my own bracket tops down about 1/16".

The ramps are being offered without decals and without any metal beyond the entrance flaps. There are I think 16 pieces in total that the whole set that need to be riveted to the new ramp. If I were to provide these 16 pieces, I suspect the cost overall would increase $150-$175, so I promote reusing your existing metal.

All pieces are pre-drilled for the metal that must be transferred. Odin noted that on the prototype Big ramp, one of the optic sensors was mounted down near the entrance to the ramp vs at the upper left corner. I am reproducing the ramp as if that sensor is in the upper left corner. If you have a Prototype Big ramp that has this optic sensor down near the entrance and want to preserve it, let me know and I will send you a Big ramp without the pre-drilling at the upper left corner. You would need to position your sensor on the ramp then mark and drill the mounting holes for the bracket and the two 1/4" holes in the side of the ramp.

I am also not providing decals and I was easily able to remove my own. They cleaned up beautifully and I will reuse them. As soon as I take a break from ramp making, I will assemble my own set of ramps and post pics. If you want a new set of NOS Dredd Decals, there are some available to purchase at Pinball Inc. Note that as I write this they only have 12 left in stock.

https://www.pinballinc.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=120&product_id=292

Prices:

Big ramp $235
Stakeout ramp $125 (Includes ball containment piece at the top of the ramp)
Air Raid ramp $65
Black Out Ramp $130
Functional Subway $65
2 Piece Dead World Subway $115 (This is a non functional subway.

There is a full set discount of $35

For those interested, JodyG here on Pinside (aka rampomatic.com) has hand held rivet kits for sale.

Also check out his tutorials for both riveting and reusing decals!

Sun came out today so took outside photos.

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Looks great!
One remark about reusing existing metals: 4 ramps contains 2 metal guards/each ramp. The access to the lower rivet is very limited. With standard tools like Pintonka, it's impossible to reach. A flat and narrow surface is required to provide support to the rivet head.

Here's a link to a video (first post on the page) I did here on Pinside using the hand rivet tool that JodyG sells. I also have a river press, but use the hand tool just as much....and always when doing riveted ramp entrance protectors.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/swords-of-fury-custom-ramps/page/8

Very nice!

10 years ago when the last of the NOS ramps seemed to disappear from all the vendor's sites and I acquired a few of them from Australia, it looked like that was indeed the end and they would never be available again.

Thanks Freeplay40 and now all Dredd owners can rejoice!

Instead of rivets I have heard of people using stainless pan head Allen head screws. May be an option for some of the pieces.

Just received my Dredd ramps yesterday. Thank you Freeplay40! Packaging was excellent with lots of foam peanuts and bubble wrap to protect all the ramps. Can’t wait to install and get Judge back up and running! Well worth the wait!

I know I'm on your list FreePlay. Once I here from you I was wounding how you take payment. Thanks for making these ramps and after looking at the pictures it's going to be a full set of JD ramps for me.

Hi everyone!
I would like to show you the mods I make for this fantastic pinball machine.
If you are interested, please visit www.dystopicpinball.com and contact me via email/whatsapp for further information and prices. Thank you

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I received my Judge Dredd Ramp Set from Freeplay40 yesterday...

Wow! They are amazingly well made. With the slightly thicker material, they are better than original.

Highly recommended!

With Freeplay40's ramps and CPR's playfield, we are almost there. Who do we beg, bribe or threaten to get the playfield plastics reproduced?

- Mark

I really want this game in my collection again. Best playfield art and callouts from the 90s.

I will ask next week my contact. Maybe he has few screen printed sets available.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/hep-this-week-9-17-18/page/186#post-6297123

Thank you!

- Mark

P.S. I installed your Crane Mod two weeks ago when I shopped my Judge Dredd. It's awesome!!!

I just put in a new start button on my newly acquired JD. (The original was cracked and sticking.)

Everything is okay in game mode but when I want to put in a high score name the pin does it itself with three 'A's.

Any ideas please.

TIA.

Hi All.

This question is a little more complicated than my previous posts.

So all 4 'Judge' flashers are not working.

I have checked voltage connectors J125 and J126 and they are well seated and robust.

The same goes for drive connectors J107 and J106
and J102 from the power board.

I also checked F111, which seems to be the only fuse on the Flashlamp Circuit. It was fine.

So question 1a is (and I have asked this on other forums with no suggestions) is there a quick and easy way to test a Q transistor on the board and,

Question 1b is could all of the 'Judge' Q transistors fail at the same time.

Or could it be something else.

Help needed and appreciated,

Thanks.

Hello freeplay40,
Can you please put me on the list for a full ramp set Judge Dredd. Thx

There is a "dirty test" for TIP's on the driver board although i've only used it for flipper coils/pop bumpers and the like, not flashers.
This involves using a wire lead with an alligator clip one end which you attach to the metal tab of the TIP and then shorting the other end to ground (usually easiest to short to the ground braid wire) If the TIP is blown the coil will fire doing this method. Not sure if that works for flashers though.

My machine is still sadly in bits awaiting restore so i can't check how those flashers are wired. Do they all go through the same connector to the driver board?
It would be fairly unusual to blow all the TIP's yeah BUT i guess if they are commonly wired and the connector was shorted then perhaps?? I do doubt that though. Did you remove the fuse from the board to test? sometimes testing in situ can give false results. Are you sure you are getting continuity through the wires in the connectors? I would follow the wires to the connectors on the driver board and test continuity from either end. Sometimes if there's several connectors in a chain it's easiest to check in sections.

Done!

Hi All.

I am no further forward with my problem of the pin putting in three 'A's by itself when offering up a high score.

I know it has been asked for before on this forum but would someone be kind enough to take a pic of the four wires attached to the standard start button?

TIA

How about posting an image of yours? Others can then inspect what you have and advise you on what to connect to where.

I might be the last person to realize this, but I bought a blacklight flashlight and found this number on the playfield. It's hard to capture with the camera, but looks like "398512." It doesn't seem to any of the numbers in the cabinet that I noticed. Any insight?

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Well, it appears I need to get better at searching the interwebs. Here is the answer link and a quote from Pat Lawlor via Pinsider kosmo via ipdb. Quoteception:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/blacklight-playfield-serial-numbers-why

kosmo:

"Quote from ipdb.org, tz page

"In this listing is an image of a playfield under blacklighting, revealing a serial number. We asked Pat Lawlor why the manufacturer did this. He replies:

The reason for the serial numbers seems strange by todays standards. In 1992 Williams agreement with its distributors gave them exclusive sales right to a territory. They did not have the right to sell outside of their territory. But some were doing just that. In order to track the games origin from a distributor into the wild, the blacklight number was added. Williams knew where the game was originally shipped. If the game turned up outside of that territory, it was assumed that the distributor had "Bootlegged" the game outside of his territory. Then it was up to management to decide what penalty to incur on the offender. Remember, this was during a time when it was PROFITABLE to sell and operate pinball machines. This practice would be laughable today because ANY sale of a pinball machine is a good sale.""

It was a way for the distributors to make sure others are not selling in their area if I remember correctly. Something like that. Each area had its own serial number.

Good idea V.

Pics below of my start switch.

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I recently rebuilt mine, and had this same problem. Took a long time to find it. Turns out to be the large red button (also is tied in) was the problem. Compare both of them and see if they are plugged in the same.

Do you mean the left side square button?

Yes ,compare the plugins to the right square button.

Two of the wires relate to the lamp.
Two relate to the switch with three possible contact points.

I tried the same configuration as the square button switch and all is back to normal.

Thanks for the advice

Glad to help.

That makes sense, Those switches usually have terminals marked NO (normally open), NC (normally closed) and Ground. If you had the wire on the wrong one (NO/NC) it would do what you describe.

Small correction. The terminals are labeled NO/NC/C. The C is "common" not "ground". For those that are interested in learning more search for "spdt" or "1 form c".

@ StarWarsTurtles - are you still making this mod?