If J2 was disconnected from the rectifier board when you did this test then you're good.

However if J2 was plugged into the rectifier board then your meter was potentially toning due to the low resistance in the transformer meaning your result might be misleading.
The DC resistance on the primary (mains side) winding of the transformer is very low at about 3 ohms.
Multi-meters in continuity mode can tone with resistance readings as high as 150 ohms.
Something to be aware of, i.e. check your meter reading rather than rely on just the tone.

Thanx for this extra info, @quench....definitely going down in my repair notes logbook.

As it happens, when I was doing the test, J2 was disconnected from the rectifier board. I had plugged a row of header stakes into the loose J2 connector so that I could alligator-clip the pins under test to the mm leaving my hands free to put the other mm lead on the AC cord prongs.

Header Stakes (resized).jpg

Cool,
I forgot to mention about your playfield issue, check the J1 connector on the rectifier board. The factory rectifier boards had an 8 pin header at J1, while most replacement rectifier boards have a 9 pin header at J1. The playfield J1 female connector is only 8 pin wide. Make sure that 8 pin female connector is plugged into the left most pins of J1. If you happened to replace the female connector housing with a new 9 pin housing, carefully check the wires are in the correct housing positions.

Yep - that was indeed the root of the no solenoids firing issue. All playfield coils were reading 6.25 VDC on all tabs instead of ~43 VDC. Last night, I took a closer look at J1 and noticed that exact issue pin issue. The original TA-100 rectifier J1 is 8 pins and the XPin J1 is 9 pins and when I re-pinned that connecter (with a new 9 pin housing....first mistake!), I put the last three (GI Bus, Feature Lamp Bus, and Sol Bus) wires on the end instead of counting 1,2,3 from left to right like I should have as best practice (which would have made it obvious on my bench during the re-pinning session). Oy.

After getting those pins right on J1 and getting the service outlet out of the circuit, things are significantly better. I'm still running through a short punch list of misbehaviors that I'll work on tonight:

- While the major solenoid issue is resolved, I still have two (the "O" and the "R" in the METEOR DT bank) that don't drop during the Self Test. The main coil on that bank resets them ok.

- I'm running an Alltek Lamp board for LEDs. I'm getting flickering on 8 control lamps in one area of the playfield whereas the other 49 or 50 control lamps are ok and do not flicker. I swapped out the Alltek for my spare Alltek and it does the same thing, so I don't think there's anything wrong with the lamp board.

- There's a bit of a hum coming from the speaker. It's not noticeable during gameplay with all of the sound effects playing, but you can hear it during attract mode when there is no other audio present. I only had the game for a few days before tearing it down but I don't remember this occurring when I picked up the pin months ago. I did replace the OEM speaker with a higher end one during the restore - I might switch back to the original as a data point / test. The 1980 Black Knight I've had for the last few years has a similar hum so maybe it's normal.

I recently picked up a Stern Pirates and am now realizing it is likely a re-import from Italy. A previous owner converted the chord at some point by splicing into the original cord with a proper 3 prong plug. I looked through this forum (admittedly I may not have found the correct post if one is in here) but am questioning what else I need to look for. What other steps to the conversion do I need to look/check for? Most of the info on pinside seems to relate to Williams and older games, I haven't yet found one on converting a SAM system back from Euro voltages. Thanks in advance for the help.

So I figured out my question above with some help form the Pirates forum. Now I have one other question. Whoever had the pin before me didn't do any work on the power box so I'll be changing that out. They did however repin and jump the 9 pin connector from the power box to the transformer. The problem is they have the black line in 3 with jumps to 2 and 1 and the white line in 9 with jumps to 8 and 9. I still think its correct because it was working. Can anyone post a pic of this connection in a 2000s stern to confirm the transformer side wire colors.

Hello everyone!

I just picked up a Bride of Pinbot that was an import from Germany and is missing the service outlet under the PF, which I would like to add. One of the previous owners rewired for the power supply to function on 120v but it looks like they forgot, or neglected to add a thermistor when they did the conversion.

Since I'll be wiring up the new outlet I figure I may as well solder a new thermistor in. How dangerous, if at all is it to continue to use the machine like this?

IMG_20220104_155425 (resized).jpg

And a few more pictures of the quality workmanship:

IMG_20220104_155525~2.jpg
IMG_20220104_155539.jpg
IMG_20220104_155600~2.jpg

Any thoughts on this before I clean things up?

Thanks in advance!

The shrink wrapped wire is confirmed to be hot.

Cross checked the MOV part number (TNR15G431KM) to Marcos website and it appears I still have the international variation. Since they're so cheap and wiring them up in parallel offers additional protection I think I'll be ordering a couple of them for extra peace of mind. *Just to clarify- I would add the second one the same way the current one is connected?

What about the thermistor? Pick one up and add it in place of the orange (looks red in the picture) wire on the far right that attaches to the top lug of the fuse?

Fuse is rated 5 amp - 250v. Appears to be a slow blow?

IMG_20220104_191319~2 (resized).jpg

Don't parallel MOVs - one will suffice and two is NOT better. By placing two in parallel you would change the properties of the parts.

I was under the impression that two would offer additional protection based on Vid's quote below:

Connecting them in parallel is fine.
https://components101.com/articles/metal-oxide-varistor-mov-overview
"The MOVs should always be connected in parallel for increased energy handling capability and if you want to get higher voltage rating you should connect it in series."

Fuses:

5 amp 250v is Euro.

8 amp 125v slow blo is USA

add in the 120v MOV and thermister.

Change out the line filter for a 120v one.

add in the service receptacle you should be good to go.

Check the output of the transformer before plugging it in the power board, this is important.

Hey guys,

I just picked up a Gottlieb System 3 Gladiators import and noticed that the power cord has been changed back to a standard US plug. I haven't encountered a converted machine before, but when I started looking at the schematics and doing a little research, the black and white wires look like their swapped. Can someone verify this for me? Is there something I'm missing?

The game booted and played fine when I picked it up from the seller.

IMG_20220123_165937 (resized).jpg

IMG_20220124_171605 (resized).jpg

Thanks Vid for confirming and offering a solution! Much appreciated! I found the part you mentioned on PBR's website and I'll get that ordered.

On Williams / Bally games particular a No Fear where do you plug in the replacement cord to?

Generally you'll solder the bare wires on the end of the cord to the proper place in the game.
There are many, many possible things that could have been done to your game since it left the factory so don't just go by 'standard' advice. Take pictures of what you have. If your cord is missing, say so.

Check the key posts in this thread and ask specific questions where your situation isn't covered.

Does anyone know if there's a good video that shows the step by step of replacing a line cord on an EM machine? Vid's pictures and guides are helpful, but I feel like some sort of video would help me better visualize for example, the placement of the ground connectors.

Vid, I was with my new home inspector today and watched him test a GFCI outlet that was ungrounded. It didn’t trip. I’m assuming the button on his tester made a connection between the hot and ground.

Was it just an old GFCI that doesn’t function like newer ones? This house I’m looking at has no ground wire at the outlets (built in 1959). I presume the 3 prong outlets and GFCI were added later.

Will be interesting to hear my electrician’s quote for fixing that issue.

the ultimate fix is rewire the entire house to get ground wire everywhere, we recently did our 1948 house for the same reason. There is a provision for using a gfci outlet to add a 3 prong outlet on systems with no ground wire, not sure on details, but the supposedly the testers do not work on them. more protection then just wiring a 3 prong outlet to 2 wires, but less than if you have ground.

Product Review: Leviton 3W101-E 2-Pole, 3 Wire Grounding Plug, Black -- $3.95

I have a sys9 with a missing ground pin... clipped it off.
I decided not to reach into the machine and replace the entire cord, and just do the plug.
I don't like the big bulky yellow heads.
I found this Leviton option, and gave one a try.

Pros:
* takes up less space on the power strip
* better color

Cons:
* tricky to close up the housing (one time issue), but it can be done -- you really want to plan out how much wire you cut from the un-scored part.
* not a lot of housing material clamping down on the cord -- feels like pulling on the cord = pulling on all 3 strands

I may loosen this up and tightly wrap electrical tape around the cord end 1-2x and reclamp it and see if I have more confidence in pulling on the cord. Otherwise, I'm just going to mark the cord with some silver oil based paints for now -- to remind me not to yank on the cord when it comes time to unplug the machine some day.

Happy for now. We'll see...
-mof

open-and-say-ahhh (resized).jpg

plug-shapes (resized).png

silver-markings (resized).png

size-comparison (resized).jpg

I learned on Leave It To Beaver you never unplug something by pulling on the cord!

Looks way better than the funky industrial one ive used!

Just bought a few, thanks! :

Leviton 3W101-E 2-Pole, 3 Wire Grounding Plug, Black https://a.co/5qg3v6g

Let us know how you creatively create more traction/less bend from the plug to the cord. I haven't adjusted mine yet.

Sometimes when we move machines -- we create tension on cords, and I want to limit wear and tear.

-mof

OH SNAP!!! I'm gonna use those name-plate zip ties to put the names of all games at the plugs on outlets from now on -- I was using labels and tape, and they come off over time.

Problem solved!

I put 1/4" zip ties, tightly bound, inside the housings for strain relief if they will fit.

fascinating -- u mean to say you cinch off the end of the cord inside the housing as tight as possible? knowing that tie can't pull out?

Yep

I do it when the housing clamp is too big for the crap wire i had to use.

I just used these on 3 of my pins, and they're great.

The 1st one took a bit longer as I experimented on how long to keep the wires so the outer jacket of the cord gets pinched between the plug halves.

I like these a lot better than the round, yellow plugs.

-Paul

I’m interested to hear if this is incorrect.

This is a picture where the line cord comes into the box inside a reimported-from-Japan WPC machine. The only other similar picture I found in this thread has the incoming white and black line cord and onward black and white reversed.

I haven’t powered it back on yet but the seller said that the machine functioned properly before put in storage.

13A74006-443A-4870-A261-F36F2ACD0345 (resized).jpeg

What's the magic length? I'm considering getting a 10 pack of these and replacing all my big round yellow ones. Then I'll use those for games I'm not keeping, but still need ground plugs.

About 1/2" from the screw terminal on the ground. There's a threaded boss that the leads snake around. I make the length of the leads just be long enough so that the outer jacket is right up to that boss. You'll see what I mean when you see it.

-Paul

Great info. I refer to this thread frequently.

So the black one goes too the fuse and line filter and red one goes too the line filter in and out ? You had them the other way around right in your pic

Needing line cord for a pin and a few different projects I was at Menards today and I realized it was cheaper to get a really long extension cord, cut it into pieces, and terminate the end for a line cord. My time was probably worth more than the effort of putting new ends on the cut up pieces. The 15a grounded straight plug ends where like $2 I think. Nicer/ more expensive ones like shown a few posts up are easier to put together.

Seems odd the "outdoor" cords are usually less expensive for the same gauge, but don't come in black. Better, water resistance insulation is less expensive?

"orange" a common color, seems to marked up at times when all other factors are the same, gauge, length, brand, insulation, etc. The "shop replacement cord" with one end stripped off already was more expensive than an extension cord of the same length, derp.

Sort of relevant youtube review of extension cords.

I picked up a bunch of extension cords for $2 each when Sears was going out of business and have been using them as replacements on machines for several years now. It allows you to semi-customize the cable lenght further than the premade cables.

I have a question for vid1900 or others. While installing a replacement power plug on a Simpsons that came into the shop, I decided to check all my other games for wiring issues. I measured AC volts between all games from lockdown bar to lockdown bar with the games powered on. On all games (save one), there was essentially zero AC volts shown.

However, on my Mousin Around, I was seeing 60V AC between either game to the left or right of it in my line up. Assuming I had previously installed a replacement plug incorrectly, I inspected the plug only to find that the plug and cord appear to be factory originals in good shape with no fraying, etc.

So did Bally wire the game incorrectly from the factory? I noticed the factory plug was NOT the polarized type. eg, both prongs are the same size. What's the easiest way to fix this? Install a new plug, or open the junction box where the off/on switch resides and see how they have it wired? Thanks!!

Here are some pics of my Mousin' Around wiring. It all seems to be factory to me, but I have 60v AC between Mousin Around lock down bar and any other nearby game's lock down bar. Any thoughts on what's going on? Seems like the polarity is wrong on Mousin.

Ma1 (resized).jpg

ma2 (resized).jpg

ma3 (resized).jpg

Three prong cords aren't typically polarized because it's impossible to plug them in wrong. To reverse the hot and neutral the ground prong has to be removed.

I checked the outlets and power strips the games are plugged into as Vid1900 suggested and found no errors. I checked the Molex plug wiring that comes from the transformer and the white and black wires and associated jumpers inserted into the 9 pin square molex follow the schematic. From the transformer a hot and neutral wire go to the on/off switch which has four lugs - white and black going in and a white and black coming out. I found that the white and black wires entering the on/off switch have no continuity (obviously they shouldn't) but when the switch is turned to "on", the white and black wires coming out of the switch show continuity (make a continuous peep on my Fluke when set to diode/continuity check). I can not figure out what is happening here! How can this be??

The white and black wires do not peep when the switch is off, only when it is turned on. I thought maybe the on/off switch is defective but I desoldered the black wire and repeated the test and no peep. Needless to say I am a bit confused!

When I get a "peep" on the meter between the white and black wires, it is on continuity setting. When I measure from the Mousin Around pinball lockdown bar to other pinball lockdown bars, I am getting 60v ac.