(Topic ID: 228596)

Orbitor 1 - Scratch build, reaching for the stars!

By Isochronic_Frost

5 years ago


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#19 5 years ago
Quoted from Isochronic_Frost:

Does anyone make a new wiring harness for this game? I need a complete wiring harness for the backbox to the playfield. I can look into making it by hand but just checking if anyone knows of a shop reproducing the required harnesses!

Contact Shawn at Third Coast Pinball. He is producing back box harnesses and play field harnesses for some of us who are restoring some Classic Stern pins.

I looked at the O1 drawings at IPDB. And O1 is the same basic wiring as the other classic Sterns There are some differences but I think minor.

https://pinside.com/pinball/biz/directory/1180-third-coast-pinball

#23 5 years ago
Quoted from CaptainNeo:

the wiring harness in hand would have been the deciding factor before even attempting this project.

Sometimes, Captain, you just have to roll the dice.

#25 5 years ago
Quoted from Isochronic_Frost:

Sometimes all ya need is a wing and a prayer, and a half dozen helpful pinsiders to get the silver ball rollin'

3 weeks later
#28 5 years ago
Quoted from Isochronic_Frost:

• Spinning bumpers (Haven't heard from my contact in a while, going to begin the search again for these)

In one of Game Room Collectables you tube videos, mechanic Ray was showing and Orbitor frame with those spinning bumpers. The video is not new but you might give them a call. Sure cannot hurt.

3 months later
#43 5 years ago
Quoted from Isochronic_Frost:

Yeah at first I was hesistant but if I am able to get it from him I’m taking both. I really need that head!

I’m thinking this could qualify for the score of a decade.

2 weeks later
#47 5 years ago
Quoted from Isochronic_Frost:

The one near me for sale was up for probably 4 months before it sold.
Don’t part it out, that’s a shame! Novelty games take a long time to sell.

Truer words have never been spoken. When selling, patience is a virtue.

4 weeks later
#53 4 years ago

Only 889 Orbitor 1s produced.

It is nice to see one rise from the dead.

2 weeks later
#66 4 years ago
Quoted from Isochronic_Frost:

How do I reattach the cardboard light sockets to the underside of the vacuu-formed plastic playfield? Does anyone know the proper adhesive to use??

You are probably going to be looking for something from 3M company.

I do not know what would be proper but my thoughts lean toward upholstery type of adhesive. You spray the adhesive on both parts and let it sit for a minute, or whatever it says on the can. And then press one part to the other.

If you follow directions, the 2 parts will be bonded in a permanent manner.

#68 4 years ago
Quoted from Isochronic_Frost:

Alright, I just want to thoroughly research it before doing it, because I don’t wanna ruin the playfield, obviously!

I guess the question should be asked is if you want them to be bonded on permanently? Or do they need to be removable?

#70 4 years ago
Quoted from Isochronic_Frost:

Probably removable because they hold the lights in I could switch to LEDs but still the lights wouldn’t last forever. Also the way the lights mount to the cardboard removing them could ruin the cardboard thus making it useless and I don’t want to them to be permanent if they run the risk of being ruined

You want something that will peel like Post-it-note, it sound like. Or a merchandise price sticker that can be peeled off. A temporary bond, so to speak.

I have some 3M adhesive that I use to spray on the sanding discs I use on my dual action sander. It holds the discs good enough that I can use the DA and when the disc is worn out I can peel it off and spray a new disc and slap it on and go back to work.

I got this adhesive at an auto body supplies store.

You might try talking to someone at an auto upholstery shop.
========================

You might try to call someone at 3M

https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/company-us/all-3m-products/~/All-3M-Products/Adhesives-Tapes/Industrial-Adhesives-and-Tapes/Non-Structural-Adhesives/Spray-Adhesives/?N=5002385+5582877+8710676+8710815+8710968+8711017+8713605+3294857497&rt=r3
=============================

What about hot glue? That is easy to apply with a hot glue gun. And when you heat it up with a hair dryer it gives up its bond very fast.

https://www.amazon.com/s

#73 4 years ago

OK. I'm looking at your picture.

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You are wanting to attach these cardboard tubes to the under side of your play field. I agree with Darcy, replace the cardboard with plastic tubes. I think you could find the right diameter in PVC plumbing tubing. For what you are doing, hot glue should hold those tubes securely enough to the play field. Hot glue would be a temporary bond that can be broken with a hair dryer.

I'm 95% positive that the type of plastic the play field is made of is bondable and will accept Superglue. So you could bond either cardboard tubes or plastic PVC tubing to the play field in a permanent bond using superglue. But hot glue has good holding power and gives you the flexibility of a temporary bond.

If you wish to take it a little farther, you could bond a a small flat piece of plastic to the side of the plastic tubes; This would make a mount to which you could use a standard bayonet light bulb socket. You can buy bayonet sockets in all kinds of configurations for any type of mounting situation. The metal tabs on these sockets bends into any shape of angle easily. You could make the bulb fit into a plastic tube at any depth you would want and be able to get rid of that squeeze type socket if you wanted to.

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1 month later
#79 4 years ago
Quoted from Isochronic_Frost:

Sorry for lack of updates, so many things and other projects going on... finally got a chance to check these from gdonovan and unfortunately they’re too small! I went to the store after and checked and it seems like 2inch ones would fit correctly, but nobody had the flat finish nuts, they all were Bell-shaped which was frustrating! Also the screw hole in the 2in ones were HUGE not sure what they normally secure them with...
My next move is to find the correct finish nuts as well as try and source the correct motor from Granger’s, hopefully they can help!
Another obstacle in my path to launch this Orbitor has reared it’s head. The flipper brackets are missing, and I was given extremely helpful pictures by pinchatt
If any brave and kind soul wants to lend me the metal flipper support/mount to used as a template to fabricate my own I will be sure to have a pair made for you aswell! I’ve also found someone to make the spinning bumper brackets and will have extras made for anyone else who would like to attempt this in the future![quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Those motors look like Dayton C-Frame motors.

https://www.google.com/search?q=dayton+c-frame+motors&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwicoKWC2cfjAhUBVa0KHXZGACMQ_AUIEigC&biw=1276&bih=897

Zoro.com carries a lot of these. All sizes. And there other sellers, as well.

https://www.zoro.com/dayton-c-frame-motor-shaded-pole-1-in-l-sleeve-4m070d/i/G0896384/feature-product?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIofPzhdnH4wIVRdbACh1OswMVEAQYAiABEgI59vD_BwE

3 weeks later
#100 4 years ago
Quoted from KJS:

Just got my baby back from GreatScott! restos! Such a fun game.
Would like to beef up my flipper coils to get the back targets, anyone done this?
Did my own drain hole repairs and came up pretty nice. Keen to get some led strip going soon.
Alltek board installed but the target insert lamps flicker like crazy even with anti ghost leds?[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

I'll keep saying this because it is an easy item to overlook. On the Alltek MPU board, in the upper left hand corner of the board you will see two pin jumpers and two sets of 3-pins. To use the Alltek MPU on a Stern those jumpers need to be on the two left hand pins for correct operation. For Bally pins, the jumpers need to be on the two right hand pins. If you are not jumped correctly you may run into problems, such as flickering LEDs and general poor performance.

#102 4 years ago
Quoted from KJS:

Thanks for the info cotton, I believe I only have the alltek lamp board.

OK. Just for grins, on page 4 of the lamp board instructions, it matters which control lamp wire you attach the supplied jump wire to. Each control lamp is going to have one striped wire and one solid color wire. The instructions specify to attach the jumper to the solid color wire.

I doubt this is your problem and you are probably jumped correctly but this is the last item I know of that might help you.

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