I really don't want to derail this thread but, You were right, the balls from the listing were'nt from the U.S. , it's funny that when you ask the same question (asked differently) at the same person, you get a more precise answer.
The listing has been corrected now and indicates that the balls are made in India.
That answer satisfies me,' India is'nt China at all as for quality..... , but, I also understand that India is'nt the Unites States also.
To each there own, I don't mind buying again from the same seller.

So the next item I need to look at on this machine is the ball shooter lane feeder assembly. I have an issue where the eject cam (2) doesn't return to it's resting position. A number of rapid flipper presses will eventually get it to settle back down and allow the next ball to be staged.

I haven't worked on a game with this type of assembly before. The compression spring seems like it would be the main force to return this arm to it's resting position, I didn't know if compression springs tend to need to be replaced or stretched out a bit to store some of their strength. Also guess I should check that anything isn't rubbing or binding it's movement. I probably would also clean or replace the coil sleeve.

Any additionally advice would be helpful.

tz_ball_shooter_lane_feeder (resized).png

It's likely gummed up clean it really well and lube it at the pivot point ... one of the few things that needs lube on a machine.

you will likely need a new coil sleeve, not pictured in your diagram...but sholar said...clean it first...

This is one of the only places where you oil a pinball. Take the mechanism off, clean the mounting bracket assembly (7) A-8268 in the diagram, apply fresh oil.

Not on Twilight, but on Addams, I've seen this part have it's plating worn off, and it be worn down enough that parts have to be replaced... but that is extremely rare. It requires a LOT of play to have to replace parts here. But they may need oil every few years.

If this is needing lubrication, add a drop of oil to your slingshot pivots, and at the rocket launcher 'V Pad' assembly kicker. It might save you from having to disassemble the mechanisms to get them lubricated.

Ok sounds like cleaning and some lube at the metal on metal contact points is in order. I’ve got a pen of super lube I use to juice spinners so hopefully that works for this.

I haven’t fully lifted this playfield before, is ejecting the balls out of the gumball machine required/recommended and is that pretty straight forward to do?

Not required out of the Gumball or Lock. The trough, yes.

If you ever want to empty the balls, tho - go into test menu and look for the last one, named "Empty Balls". It'll eject the balls from everywhere.

I always use a small piece of fabric that I put between the metal wire that feeds the gumball to avoid that the balls will roll back when I lift the PF. The same for the eject hole. That works fine.

Best regards
Tom

Super lube is fine. Less is better.

I'm going through and cleaning this up now. Coil, sleeve, and plunger cleaned up, all looks good. The main point of friction seems to be 7 like you said, seems pretty gummed up. Tackling it next.

That did the trick, thank you all for the help with this.

Looking for these two upper pf plastics if anyone has a spare set. Mine is cracked and I’m replacing the switches with the Great Lakes mini pf set so was hoping to have new plastics to go with it. Willing to pay shipping and a few bucks for your trouble.

image (resized).jpg

https://littleshopofgames.com/shop/playfield-plastics/playfield-plastics-partial-plastic-set/twilight-zone-bally-pinball-machine-commonly-damaged-7-piece-replacement-plastic-set/

Or check parts places for a complete plastic set.

LTG : )

Came across these earlier this week when I was looking for parts:

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/31-1765-16
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/31-1765-17

Might pick up 2 of these protectors as well:

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/31-1765-17-G

I’m out of town until mid next week, but I’m almost certain I have a pair of these I can send you. I’ll check when I’m home if you haven’t found anything by then.

Nice find, I use polycarbonate to protect the Magna Flip sign.

IMG_0401 (resized).JPG

IMG_0402 (resized).JPG

Ended up finding a NOS TZ PF, Ron K is currently working his magic on it, but the original turned out to be really nice once I cleaned it up a little. Anyway, if anyone is looking for a nice factory TZ playfield, let me know. Overall really clean. The lightning bolt insert has sunk a little, but that's the only thing I could really find other than some slight wear around the rocket kicker and the normal ball track/dimpling stuff. Overall a really clean PF for it's age. Would be a great candidate for clear coat, or would probably look amazing cleaned & polished.

Lots of pictures here: https://photos.app.goo.gl/Sqv7S3zduEyrB21Y6

Chris

PXL_20240406_221516459 (resized).jpg

Is this your PF or the NOS PF in the picture ?
It looks really nice.

This is the playfield I removed from the machine, the NOS playfield I bought is at Ron Kruzmans getting clear coated. Had I known the original (this one) was this nice, I may have passed on the NOS and just had Ron clear coat this one.

Chris

How much are asking for this one?
I'm not interrested since my original PF is already nice and CC'ed but for anyone else who would be interrested.

Looking for some help!

I've built a couple TZ pins and I've collected a few clock boards along the way. Now I'm doing a scratch build on a CFTBL and I need A LOT of these lamp sockets - which are not available anywhere. They were only used on TZ and CFTBL.

Yes, I see there's a few listed on Ebay - for the entire board, but I'm hoping I can buy a few sockets here and there from those of you that did the LED clock conversion like me. If anyone is willing to sell a few to me to help the cause, please shoot me a PM.

Thank you all!

IMG_6425 (resized).jpg

Have you checked places like Mouser and Digikey? May have to measure the pins on one of your boards first. But we already know it a T-1 3/4, so that should help narrow it down.

Yep, also known as an #86 bulb - of which there are many sources. The PCB sockets seem to be made of "un-obtainium".

You can have mine for free, only, shipping might cost a lot from Canada.
Let me know.

IMG_0403 (resized).JPGIMG_0404 (resized).JPG

By the way, it is'nt working well but if you only need the sockets, then that is'nt really important for you, right?

Correct! I'll shoot you a PM. Thanks!!!

I'm gearing up to replace my clock housing, decal, possibly the PCB. While I have this thing off the machine and taken apart are there any suggested maintenance things I should do?

I'm assuming cleaning and lubricating the gears is probably something I should do. Looking at past posts I see some people suggest lithium grease, others mention super lube. I was wondering what is currently recommended for this?

I used super lube without any issues. Not sure what others or the preferred method is.

I have my old clock boards and could pull off the bulb sockets. Just pay for shipping and they're yours. I can't imagine shipping would be much if I pull the sockets off board.

I just looked on ebay for fun. People really like their old, broken clock boards. Who'd pay that much given that there are repos available (that likely are much more reliable)?

I'll send you a PM. THANK YOU!!!

I still don't know how to check the voltages going to the two boards but in order to eliminate possible errors is the motor for the TZ clock (A-16652) the same as the one for Ted's jaw in Roadshow (A-13997)? In addition, can I interchange 8 driver pcb assembly (A-16100) for the one in Roadshow (A-16100-2)? I don't want to break both machines as, apart from the slow startup of the clock everything works perfectly.

FWIW. Hello TZers.
Anal post here, Mini playfield details.
While checking metal posts hardware and seeing what the difference with part numbers are etc.
Here are some of my observations.
TZ mini playfield has two styles of #8 Wood Screws.
Items on pg. 2-40 with pg. 2-41.
Item (19) & (20) pg. 2-40.
Item (19) is #8 Wood Post 02-4426-1. Item (20) is #8 Wood Post 02-4426-2
IMG_0001[1] screwpost detail (00) (resized).jpg
Next, posts with part 03-8371 Spacer Spool hole size #8.
IMG_0001[1] screwpost detail (00a) (resized).jpg
Finally correcting mounting of item (2) pg. 2-40 A-16332 Street Light Assembly
with item (20) 02-4426-2 #8 Wood Post & washer.
IMG_0001[1] screwpost detail (00b) (resized).jpg
The bracket A-16332 assembly is mounted very firmly now.
---------------------------
Here sadly Pinsider did not know the two deferent #8 wood screw post sizes are used
on the mini playfield and thus pierced the wood.
Pinside_forum_8036376_3779623 screw through playfield oops (a) (resized).jpg
Note: One can add Part numbers and amend TZ page 2-46 [Posts]

Cheers.

vec-tor thanks for sharing the picture of my TZ. Indeed when I took the picture I saw the spike coming out of the predrilled hole in the MPF and I did excatly what you mentioned, I added a washer to adjust the length of the post.

Even that pin is more than 24 years in my collection, I never "touched"/changed that post. So it's worth whenever you're doing some maintenance work, double check the installation.

Best regards
Tom

So i finally got my Ball Baron Polaris for TZ and as crazy at it is, the subway sensor thinks it’s the Powerball EVERY time.
The sensor card is working well as i tested it manually, taking it off and placing the balls against it and it works…(recognizes that the Polaris balls are NOT the Powerball).
However in gameplay, only the steel balls work fine, passing through the subway sensor… but all Polaris balls dont..

Any idea?

I did use a towel to clean the new Polaris balls before inserting them in the game. Didnt do anything.
Shall i « leave them to dry » for a bit?

Could the layer of (protective alchool?) on them be the reason why in the subway the sensor board cant recognize them properly? (But then again, they work fine when i manually approach them to the board after unscrewing say sensor board). Seems like the plastic layer of the subway (in between the sensor board and the Polaris ball passing) prevents the board from recognizing the chrome balls. And again, it works well with normal steel balls… crazy

IMG_9141 (resized).jpeg

They should have been cleaned with soap and warm water and dried/buffed with an old T shirt or cotton cloth, microfiber works ok as well. You don't want that oil and industrial residue in the game, regardless of if that's your issue with the powerball or not.

I use alcohol to clean the oil off new balls, but yes definitely want to clean them off before putting in the game.

That works too.

Thanks - i did just that: warm water + soap, then dried with a cloth.

Still 100% recognized by the subway sensor as a Powerball each time one Polaris ball is in

Talking to someone about this today and they suggested it's specific to your game as that sensor is a proximity sensor. I have them in my tz, as I'm sure hundreds or more others do with no issue so I can only suggest it's a combination of the sensor AND the balls but it's not like those balls aren't magnetic at all, they are held in place by the Tz magnets just fine. I'm out of my depth at this point really though.

Thanks man.
Yes, i’m certain my issue is sensor board related. I’ve ordered a new one and will do a swap. Just so weird that it detects steel balls and not chrome ones. I cant get me head round with it.

I know at some point someone designed new sensor boards with pots to adjust the sensitivity, don’t know if those are still out there somewhere. I occasionally get a false power ball in the subway after a camera shot but haven’t dived into how to resolve it.

Mine have been finicky over the years. It’s always been connector issues.

Yes, this is what happens to me as well when using steel balls. Occasionally it will call for a powerball.

Unfortunately, for now and with my sensor board, seems as i cannot use chrome balls

Just to be sure there is no misunderstanding the Polaris balls are carbon steel.

My Tz intermittently gives a prox sensor error, unrelated to the balls in it, I unplug it and replug it and it works fine for months.

Yes, my mistake. Carbon indeed.

Good to know, will do an unplug/replug just for the sake of it. Thanks.

The prox sensor is one area where the 'hack' of soldering wires directly is a good thing. (eliminating the connector)

My TZ has started doing an odd thing where it plays the wrong sound samples. It’s usually ok when I first turn it on, this happens after playing a while and eventually it might even just play a continual hum and no sound samples at all. Any idea what the issue might be? Gameplay works normally, but of course it’s harder to know what’s going on without the right callouts.

That's likely my next step when it happens again. That and re-flowing the solder on the back of the board.