There is a service bulleting about it.

Here are pics of the cluster I removed.

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Not too bad actually.

Broken right plastic, but theres a guy on Ebay that has them.

I bought them.

You have more pieces that I had when I started.

My skull was cracked and broken, but little fiberglass tape and epoxy fixed him right up.

Get the bright eyes from pinball life:

https://www.pinballlife.com/briteeyes-terminator-eye-mod-for-terminator-2-pinball-machines.html

It seems silly but it DOES make a huge difference.

There is also a regular white spool spacer in the rear somewhere, that keeps the plastics at the right level.

Dont over think it, it really only goes in one way to get the skull NOT at an angle.

I have all new plastics and an extra skull...I just can't see this going back together the way it came apart since it's broken and basically peeled off.
LOL

I’d love to try to salvage that board to practice my board skills

I'll drop it by sometime or throw it in the mail to you.

I got it done relatively easy, once I took it all apart and put in the new t1000 and all that I realized what I was working with and that it could go back together sort of the way it came apart. I finished the topside, plastics, posts, rubbers, cleaning, waxing, pops etc...plays so much nicer, but I still need to rebuild flippers and do all the stand up targets.

Speaking of stand up targets, it seems like wiring them on the bench with molex might be the move on that....thoughts?

Installed Pin2DMD as well, the colorization is really average on this one, nothing like my others, but it's still better than non color lol

Thats how I do pretty much everything.

I also hooked up 2 4smd led lamps to the drop target.

one white lamp from the GI, and a red one off of the lock insert so it flashes a little.

It makes a difference to me and does look cool.

If you look theres a dimple for a lamp already there behind the drop target.

The lamp was deleted during production.

I am working on an update using the original Malenko files as base. Trying to align it better with the playfield and cabinet colors, and fixing some errors. Getting there but it is a lot of work.
jrcmlc For inspiration: which ones you think are done well?

Getway is good, no fear is good, fish tales was good, sopranos is good, really most of them are pretty good.

Ok, will look at those. thanks.

I watched the demo of the colordmd colorization and it's pretty much the same.

I think the colorization is somewhat limited due to original DMD programming. The colorization work can't add any new content, you can only color what is there already.

T2 was the first Williams pinball machine to be designed with a DMD. Gilligan's Island was their second game started with a DMD in mind but due to a quicker development time it was released a month earlier than T2.

The earlier DMD games were a quite a bit simpler in their graphics than later games as the programmers we still getting their feet with them.

Don't forget the colorization of the profanity part, that Color-DMD also forgot.
They later recolored after we released Game Rom L8.3 and send them a screenshot of the missing colors.
Take a closer look to the line indentations in the second frame.

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With a pin2dmd I could add new stuff when there is no dynamic content (scoring), but it is a lot of work.

True, but it ain't that bad as some want us to believe. It should be possible to make it look better then how it looks now in both colordmd and pin2dmd.

This should be OK as I use a color mask for this one and the indent should not matter, but I'll double check. I use L8.4, but have profanity off as I do not have the sound chip.

If you need more information I can send you the document.

Hmm

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Does anyone have or know a source for a full apron decal set? Looks like Marco used to have them but not anymore.

Or even the files as I can arrange to have them printed.

One of these things is not like the others, one of these things does not belong....

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These are gone.

Check switch 41, 42, 44 just all of the sudden today when I turned it on, nothing seems to not work, no issues after I shopped it, bleh.

#4 is the common wire, run around that color wire for a break.

LTG : )

Looks like the front switch on the left sling is dead and holding down some of the other stuff.

I have a replacement decal set for the T2 Apron I'm not going to use if anyone is interested, PM me.

Finally joining the club - Flew to PA and drove this thing 814 miles back home to MN! She’s one of the nicer examples I’ve seen lately, now to find out what it really needs…
Gonna replace all the rubber. Anyone have red silicone, does it look good?

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https://www.titanpinball.com/

I have red silicone here. Not for sale. But you can see what it looks like.

LTG : )

We have thousands of different PerfectPlay silicone rings and sleeves in stock including full T2 game kits of white rings with whatever color posts/flippers you want. Pm me as they aren't in the store yet.

I personally went with red flipper rubbers and white everything else.

Full game kits are in our pinside store now. Free shipping.

I still have an apron decal set available if anyone needs it.

Awesome, I like the price and happy to buy from fellow pinsiders here!

Of course, finding more pressing issue at moment - both my flippers have an assortment of mechanical wear/issues, and one Mazzco coil and one Williams 11629. There seems to be lots of T2s with the 11629 (stronger) coils in the flippers, tho the original spec was 11630, 'standard' strength coil. Guess I'm wondering if anyone has the 11630s and thinks they're too weak?

I recently swapped my 11629's for 11630's. I found the 11629 a tad too powerful and I had quite some airballs. When it was time to rebuilt my flippers (into new style) I decided to install the weaker ones. My experience with 630:
-All shots can be made, also from a "hold-ball"position.
-The skull shot is more difficult (which I like)
-It is easier to do multiple chase loop rounds after each other increasing the speed with each loop (which is the best shot on this machine imho)
-Ball times increase (which I also like)
-No more air balls

It is important though to have the optimal EOS switch gap to make sure you get max power out of the 11630. I guess that is the reason that Williams recommended the 11629 later on, because optimizing is not an operator trait. Besides as an operator you do not want long ball times

Conclusion: I am very happy with the 11630. If you want a bit more power, the 15411 (orange) might be a consideration (did not test it myself). The 11629 with flippers in great condition is too strong in my opinion.
Note that I have the playfield on 6.3 degrees which is at the lower end of the recommended range (6-7).

I just replaced both entire flipper assemblies and went with FL-11630 factory spec and it plays as it should. Plenty of power for this game, wouldn't want more.

Awesome info! With what my flippers are doing now, any new setup will be good. One is missing about 25% of travel due to wear. I’m set on the steeper side of 6-7 degrees, I can always decrease pitch a hair if the ramps turn into climbs.

PBL has the coils and rebuild kits of course, but they also offer a completely prebuilt drop in flipper assembly, minus the flipper bat and rubber, which is not ordinarily what I would do as it's about $9 higher than doing it yourself, per side, but EVERYTHING on mine including the brackets themselves was nasty+ and most original... and it saved me $9 worth of work, for sure. Just make sure you select the right Coil and coil stop, PBL part #'s and OEM specs are:

SKU C-13174-L and C-13174-R, Coils are FL-11630 and coil stops are A-12111

and

We have the drop / rollover targets with the decal available, will be in the store shortly.

Also have full game kits with all the stand up targets, correct colors and mounting orientation, diodes already installed etc... Also not in the store yet but will be soon.

PM me for either or both

I'm back... again... I think this is the 4th or 5th T2 I've owned. Arnold keeps saying he will be back and he keeps showing up. Funny thing with this one, It has the profanity chip (of course) and literally the first ball / first game since I set it up a few minuets into play, I shoot the lock and Arnold gives me the FU A***ole. I guess he's mad I keep selling them or trading them away! This one is super clean has been in several collections long term over many years. Maybe we'll keep this one... for now. Currently he's chilling next to my Elvis Gold. 2 SRP next to each other.

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Play the machine with the latest Game Rom and you will have much more fun!

What is changed? New rules??
It would be awesome to expand the code on this otherwise very shallow yet cool machine.
It is one of the few 90s I still enjoy to play even though it's has shallow core the ball times are short.

Where can I find a list of the changes?

New functions and loads of bugfixes...

Terminator2_L8_4.pdf

Wow amazing work.
That is an incredible amount of analysis and work to fix bugs and other behaviours.
Well done!!!

Just out of curiosity, are there any plans to expand the code further?

Game looks pretty sweet. Congrats!

Yes, we found some more issues and made a roadmap for another update later this year.

What issues did you find? Is there a recommendation for which of the new options in 8.4 to use, enable or disable? Like a recommended beat practice for most enjoyable game?

you bugging me!!! Lol. Great job. Thank you!

There are just a few small errors that were only noticed later. However, these are still based on the code L-8.
Some errors are optical in nature, such as: E.g. switching different lamps on or off... all in all just small things.
The gameplay itself is much better and you can do a lot more with the new features.
The tournament mode in particular is now designed to be functional and fair... it never worked properly and counted unfairly and gave each player different starting positions.
I wrote a new Manual with all new features... enjoy.

A2_Feature_Adjustments_(Update).pdf

Williams_1991_Terminator_2_Judgment_Day_Manual_-_Update.pdf

This is a less of a T2 question and more of a ColorDMD question with a T2 reason.

I have the LED ColorDMD and love it a but I am curious...

1. Can I set text as a solid colour (white) and have the background a solid colour (off-red) to mimic the Terminator vision from the movie?
2. Can I easily switch back and forth between colour profiles?
3. Can I choose only certain elements to have this solid colour (such as the database selection) or would I need a Pin2DMD for that?

What in the world rom am I working with here!? lol

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Is this even good? lol

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Looks like a prototype ROM?

Get the new 8.4 ROM

If you burned Game Rom L8-3 or L8-4 and then patch with Ghostpatch you overwrite a part in the Game Rom that detects the Game Rom version.
It's not necessary to patch these Roms because the new code support the anti-ghosting lamp matrix code to prevent LED ghosting (w/adjustment).
You can read about this new feature in the change log document of version L8-3!