(Topic ID: 353879)

Lethal Weapon 3: Weak flipper

By munroe-dp

35 days ago


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#1 35 days ago

Right flipper is particularly weak. Won't get the ball up the ramp on a standing shot. Gets a little weaker with more play.

A few things I have checked:
- Flipper coil and plunger has been rebuilt, working good.
- Flipper board looks good, very clean
- All fuses tested of replaced
- Flipper switch contact cleaned
- Nothing else plugged in on the circuit

Help much appreciated!

#2 35 days ago

Make sure your end of stroke switch is not opening to soon.

#3 34 days ago

I don't see an end of stroke switch on these flippers...

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#4 33 days ago

Thank you for the pictures.

The first thing I look at is mechanical problems, but if your plunger was mushroomed you'd feel it when you manually activate the flipper, and from your picture it looks as though you've fairly recently replaced the 'plunger-link-sleeve-and-stop'. (That's one part in my world...)

You use a 520-5033-00 flipper board to run your flippers.

Look inside your coin door when you press the flipper button to make sure the LED's are responding properly to the flipper switches on the side of the cabinet. Weird flickering, or delayed response and I'd first look to the flipper cabinet switches.

These flipper boards have absolute crap fuse holders. Frequently you'll pull a fuse and find it rusted or corroded, and that's not rust or corrosion, it's where the fuse clips have done such a poor job connecting to the fuse that it has arced. Little sparks chewing away at your fuse...

It is quite common to have to replace the fuse clips after removing fuses on these boards, they'll fail as you press the new fuse in place.

Bad fuses, bad fuse connections are one possibility here, so check that first.

Then it's board repair... and these small TYFFASI boards can be difficult to repair. About 50% of the time I'll do some small things and then just buy a replacement flipper board.

Let us know what you find.

#5 33 days ago

thanks!
- yes, the plunger-link-sleeve-and-stop is brand new
- the fuse holders look pretty good and clean.
- led's on flipper board lighting up good.

The right flipper switch has been acting up, I've cleaned it but theres a bit of a space between the leaf's and I'm not sure how to adjust it. Other than that, it seems a little bit more powerful when the game is first switched on and gets a little weaker as it is played.

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#6 33 days ago

Do you have a leaf switch adjustment tool? I'd close that gap up by at least half of what you see know.

#7 33 days ago

No I have lots of tools but not a leaf adjuster. Any youtube links showing how to do this?

#8 32 days ago

having trouble finding information on how to clean and adjust this style of flipper leaf switch. any help much appreciated!

#9 32 days ago
Quoted from munroe-dp:

having trouble finding information on how to clean and adjust this style of flipper leaf switch. any help much appreciated!

Hehe, that's because most of us take our thumb by the switch stack and press the leaves together until they are touching, then we pinch the top blade (again, down by the switch stack) and tug it back a bit to open it up some.

Needle nose pliers (adjust right at the stack, not along the blade of the switch) work well here.

Adjust all leaf switches at the stack, not along the blade, and the next technician who works on your machine won't look at you suspiciously.

As for cleaning, if it's low current like this switch, take a business card and put it between the contacts. Press the switch contacts together with the business card sandwiched between the contacts. Maintain pressure and pull the business card out. Do this three times and the little black 'pull out' mark on the card will go away, that's when you know you've got it cleaned.

I personally take the flipper button and press it in exactly half way. That's where I want the flipper contacts to touch. Preferences vary, so do what makes the machine feel responsive to you.

#10 32 days ago

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/77-SWK

Buy them, they are not expensive.

People that use anything other than the proper tool tend to mangle to blades. Right tool for the job.

Google is full of pinball help these days, search "switch blade adjustment pinball".

#11 32 days ago

- adjusted and improved the spacing
- cleaned

good power when machine is cold, after about 20 minutes it starts to weaken.

#12 32 days ago
Quoted from munroe-dp:

- adjusted and improved the spacing
- cleaned
good power when machine is cold, after about 20 minutes it starts to weaken.

Are the EoS switches set correctly? If they do not fully open at the end of stroke the coils remain at full power during a flipper hold. This gets the coil hot and as they heat up they lose power.

The EoS switches can be a bit finicky. I had the same issue on a DE JP.

#13 32 days ago
Quoted from Garrett:

Are the EoS switches set correctly? If they do not fully open at the end of stroke the coils remain at full power during a flipper hold. This gets the coil hot and as they heat up they lose power.
The EoS switches can be a bit finicky. I had the same issue on a DE JP.

I don't see EOS switches next to the flipper coils:

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#14 32 days ago

I found two videos on YouTube with this problem one guy repinned the connections going to the flipper board.

The other guy replaced the coil...

Not sure what your issues is, but I would think the board first, but the coil could be having issues as well.

#15 32 days ago
Quoted from Garrett:

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/77-SWK
Buy them, they are not expensive.
People that use anything other than the proper tool tend to mangle to blades. Right tool for the job.
Google is full of pinball help these days, search "switch blade adjustment pinball".

This is good advice. I don't think I've ever seen the flipper button leaf switches mangled, but to make sure, getting the right tool not only helps with this repair but also future leaf switch adjustments.

#16 32 days ago

The coils both get warm (not super hot) - and not really one hotter than the other.

Switches are clean and working well.

When the machine is cold, the right flipper can get the ball up the ramp from standing. After about 20 minutes, nope!

#17 31 days ago
Quoted from munroe-dp:

The coils both get warm (not super hot) - and not really one hotter than the other.
Switches are clean and working well.
When the machine is cold, the right flipper can get the ball up the ramp from standing. After about 20 minutes, nope!

There isn't much more to the flippers other than the coils, and the flipper board.

This is a tough one.

It's a VERY recent thing in pinball to worry about how warm your flipper coils are getting. However, in the absence of other suggestions, I'd probably rig a little fan and point it at the flipper coils underneath. There are designed solutions, but this is for testing. See if the problem goes away when you remove excess heat from the coils. If that fixes it... well, I'm a big fan *hehe* of whatever works.

Beyond that, I'd be swapping the flipper board, on the plan of "Keep swapping things out with new things until it starts working' type of troubleshooting...

#18 31 days ago

It's either the coil itself or something on the flipper board.

#19 31 days ago

I put a fan into the cabinet, the coils are way cooler! ... but same behavior

Replace flipper board, or the coils, or both?

#20 30 days ago
Quoted from munroe-dp:

I put a fan into the cabinet, the coils are way cooler! ... but same behavior
Replace flipper board, or the coils, or both?

You could swap the coils to see if the behavior follows the coil. If it does you will know to replace it. If it doesn't, probably time for a new or board repair.

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