I don't recall hearing that one either but I've only used code 6.0 so not sure if it was triggered with the original code.
I don't recall hearing that one either but I've only used code 6.0 so not sure if it was triggered with the original code.
Quoted from Thegamerskunk:So, in the audio files of the game, there is a voice clip of John Hammond saying "Enjoy Jurassic Park!", i don't think i've ever heard it while playing...
Is it used or not? If so, when and/or how do you trigger it?
It was originally only played randomly when entering a coin, but since most everyone has theirs on Free Play you never hear it.
However, if you are running v.6.00...
Combo Shots
Original: The 3-Way Combo of Ramp to Boat Dock to Helicopter Pad says it is worth 5M but there is a bug and game is only granting 3M. Following this for a 4-Way shot to T-Rex is an additional 10M.
Update: Fixed 3-Way Combo scoring bug to match display. Added alternate ability to achieve 3-Way Combo by shooting Ramp, Left Loop, Helicopter Pad. Added voice call "Enjoy Jurassic Park" when player achieves 3-Way Combo. Following this for a 4-Way shot to T-Rex is an additional 10M.
Quoted from Preacher:are you perhaps the creator of 6.0?
That is correct. Chad is the man!
Quoted from ChadH:It was originally only played randomly when entering a coin, but since most everyone has theirs on Free Play you never hear it.
However, if you are running v.6.00...
Combo Shots
Original: The 3-Way Combo of Ramp to Boat Dock to Helicopter Pad says it is worth 5M but there is a bug and game is only granting 3M. Following this for a 4-Way shot to T-Rex is an additional 10M.
Update: Fixed 3-Way Combo scoring bug to match display. Added alternate ability to achieve 3-Way Combo by shooting Ramp, Left Loop, Helicopter Pad. Added voice call "Enjoy Jurassic Park" when player achieves 3-Way Combo. Following this for a 4-Way shot to T-Rex is an additional 10M.
https://www.pinballcode.com/jp6
Randomly when inserting a coin, huh? From all videos that had it set to credits i've seen, i've only heard it say "Feed T-Rex" and "Hurry, Restart the system!" if you press the start button without any credits inserted.
(Also, so your the creator of the 6.0 code? Awesome! i installed it to mine not that long ago and i think its an amazing upgrade! Welcome to the group chat!)
Quoted from Thegamerskunk:Welcome to the group chat!
We are at page 203 of this thread. If you "Find in Topic" at the top of the page by his username, you will see that you are the new person here, not him.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-club?tq=&tu=Chadh
Quoted from PinballManiac40:We are at page 203 of this thread. If you "Find in Topic" at the top of the page by his username, you will see that you are the new person here, not him.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-club?tq=&tu=Chadh
Yeah, it takes some time to see who has done what for the hobby when new.
ChadH is THE guy that has balanced out the original code of many DE titles. He's almost done Batman Forever and that makes me want one
If you love his work he does accept donations!
true that!
the game really shines when the 6.0 code is installed. great work Chad!
I really don´t want to sound disrespectful to the heroes of pinball, but is there a reason why the ball save dont light up when hitting the raptor pit? Or is mine faulty? the ball save lights up at the start and extra ball and all that but not when hitting raptor pit.
Quoted from Preacher:true that!
the game really shines when the 6.0 code is installed. great work Chad!
I really don´t want to sound disrespectful to the heroes of pinball, but is there a reason why the ball save dont light up when hitting the raptor pit? Or is mine faulty? the ball save lights up at the start and extra ball and all that but not when hitting raptor pit.
It does light. But depends. It can be turned off in Adjustments.
What is the game difficulty set on?
Joining the club! I just bought a fully restored Jurassic Park from a nearby dealer. It's being delivered on Wednesday.
Quoted from Preacher:is there a reason why the ball save dont light up when hitting the raptor pit? Or is mine faulty? the ball save lights up at the start and extra ball and all that but not when hitting raptor pit.
I don't remember... refresh my memory... but does the Raptor Pit Danger lamp flash or light when it's hit... indicating that the ball save is active?
I do know that originally the "Shoot Again" lamp did not flash when the start-of-ball Ball Save is active for the first 10 seconds of the ball but I did add that functionality in v.6.00.
Its mist likely the factory reset setting. Haven’t tampered with the game difficulty setting at al.
Edit: answer to garrett above
Quoted from PinballManiac40:We are at page 203 of this thread. If you "Find in Topic" at the top of the page by his username, you will see that you are the new person here, not him.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-club?tq=&tu=Chadh
Whoops, sry
Anyways, im having some trouble with the T-Rex. It moves and goes down like usual during the diagnostics test but during gameplay, it dosent want to go down. It moves but it just wont go down to eat the ball
Does anyone know what the problem might be and how to fix it?
In the meantime, i'll just turn off the "Move left and right" adjustment
Whenever there is a T-Rex issue, always start here…
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts-blog/wp-content/uploads/2014/12/039A_SB.pdf
My guess is that it’s not finding the center properly, but you really need to test based on that document to see where the issue lies.
Quoted from scootss:Whenever there is a T-Rex issue, always start here…
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts-blog/wp-content/uploads/2014/12/039A_SB.pdf
My guess is that it’s not finding the center properly, but you really need to test based on that document to see where the issue lies.
I was thinking of manually turning the T-Rex to the position where it goes down and turning off left to right movement so it stays in place but idk if that would work.
Thx or the link tho!
Quoted from Thegamerskunk:I was thinking of manually turning the T-Rex to the position where it goes down and turning off left to right movement so it stays in place but idk if that would work.
Thx or the link tho!
I wouldn’t manually move it with my hand as the gears may get stripped.
You can manually move the TRex in diagnostics to center then turn left to right off in adjustments. The flippers are left and right and the trigger is up down.
Quoted from Thegamerskunk:Anyways, im having some trouble with the T-Rex. It moves and goes down like usual during the diagnostics test but during gameplay, it dosent want to go down. It moves but it just wont go down to eat the ball
Does anyone know what the problem might be and how to fix it?
In the meantime, i'll just turn off the "Move left and right" adjustment
It's not registering the center switch. You might have to bend the contact to get it to press all the way down when it is in center position.
Go into the menu and there is a test to see if the center switch is triggering. This is a very common issue as those contacts bend over time and no longer fully depress. Super simple fix. Fill free to PM me if you need help.
Quoted from ChadH:I don't remember... refresh my memory... but does the Raptor Pit Danger lamp flash or light when it's hit... indicating that the ball save is active?
I do know that originally the "Shoot Again" lamp did not flash when the start-of-ball Ball Save is active for the first 10 seconds of the ball but I did add that functionality in v.6.00.
hmm, not sure if the Raptor Pit Danger lamp flashes because my eyes seems to be on the very fast ball shooting out from the pit But the Shoot again lamp don´t light up.
The start-of-all Ball Save is lit up during your awesome 6.0 code update, which frankly was the main reason to get it (and perhaps with the skip diagnostics feature). I was at some point thinking of connecting the head lights to the car-mod I have to the Shoot Again lamp.
/J
Quoted from Omnipotens:It's not registering the center switch. You might have to bend the contact to get it to press all the way down when it is in center position.
Go into the menu and there is a test to see if the center switch is triggering. This is a very common issue as those contacts bend over time and no longer fully depress. Super simple fix. Fill free to PM me if you need help.
Ok, i'll try doing that, thx!
Is there a way to remove the T-Rex mech (to get to the left-right gearbox) without removing the big plastic trough underside the playfield? I’ve removed the apron, unscrew the 4 wooden screws underneath and disconnected the motors and switches. Can you pull the whole mech up through the playfield on the top side?
IMG_0413 (resized).jpegBeen having my JP for awhile. Just noticed the post above the right outlane has no rubber. Is that how it’s supposed to be? Also, while looking above the left outlane, I noticed the post is missing altogether. Anyone know where o can purchase one? TIA
IMG_4176 (resized).jpegIMG_4177 (resized).jpegJust joined the club this week!!!
I've had my sights set on a Data EastJP for years, now. The one I bought is VERY original.
Can everybody catch me up with the standard upgrades/mods?
Quoted from ThePinballPirate:Just joined the club this week!!!
I've had my sights set on a Data EastJP for years, now. The one I bought is VERY original.
Can everybody catch me up with the standard upgrades/mods?
The updated ChadH 6.0 game ROM is a must.
MODs are still available. There’s a JP mod thread too, covers Stern and DE.
Pinsound, while expensive, is a great sound upgrade with the alternative sound package.
A colorDMD is very cool but another very pricey upgrade.
Play it for a while first and see if it’s a keeper before investing
If you install leds I would highly recommend to keep the flashers incandescent. The flasher leds are blinding as they are instant on instant off.
Quoted from Garrett:The updated ChadH 6.0 game ROM is a must.
MODs are still available. There’s a JP mod thread too, covers Stern and DE.
Pinsound, while expensive, is a great sound upgrade with the alternative sound package.
A colorDMD is very cool but another very pricey upgrade.
Play it for a while first and see if it’s a keeper before investing
If you install leds I would highly recommend to keep the flashers incandescent. The flasher leds are blinding as they are instant on instant off.
Nailed it. Great list.
Quoted from ThePinballPirate:Just joined the club this week!!!
I've had my sights set on a Data EastJP for years, now. The one I bought is VERY original.
Can everybody catch me up with the standard upgrades/mods?
Replace the GI IDC connectors, if they havent been replaced they are probably crispy, rebuild the power supply and replace any burnt connectors there.
Quoted from Garrett:Mine is exactly the same
Hungry ass out lanes? Mine are.
Yea, the left outlane on mine has made the ball drain the most.
Finally fixed the T-rex on my game. Just needed to go into the diagnostics menu and move the T-rex to the center switch and turned off left-to-right movement.
Now it goes down and eats the ball every time!
Quoted from Garrett:The updated ChadH 6.0 game ROM is a must.
MODs are still available. There’s a JP mod thread too, covers Stern and DE.
Pinsound, while expensive, is a great sound upgrade with the alternative sound package.
A colorDMD is very cool but another very pricey upgrade.
Play it for a while first and see if it’s a keeper before investing
If you install leds I would highly recommend to keep the flashers incandescent. The flasher leds are blinding as they are instant on instant off.
Where's the JP mod thread? Haven't seen that one.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-pinball-mods
Pinside mod shop;
https://pinside.com/pinball/shops?gameid=267&query=Jurassic+Park
I installed the teeth, the cheeper scoop mod bulb covers, colorDMD, Pinsound, Low Profile Spot lights, Mitchell glass LED's for the scoop bulbs and have the 3D Jurassic Park gate on order. Last thing will be mirror blades, did them on the R&B and love 'em as they give the illusion of visual depth.
Hi folks,
I'm new to Pinball as a hobby and got myself a nice little treat for my birthday
My experience with Pinball is quite limited, but we had a fantastic Addam's Family at our Youth Club which I played a lot (but still sucked at, lol)
My pin is in a decent shape. Playfield is mostly okay, only few ditches in the plastics, T-Rex works (despite making some grinding noises), boards have been replaced while the box has a good collection of ditches... but i will start shooting a couple of questions at you.
I'd first like to start with protectors. I read good things about Mantis, but their shipping cost to Germany is 75$ which is twice than the merchandise's price.
Does anyone have experience with psbvtec? Ratings on ebay are looking good.
ebay.com link: itm
Quoted from ScoobaDoo:Been having my JP for awhile. Just noticed the post above the right outlane has no rubber. Is that how it’s supposed to be? Also, while looking above the left outlane, I noticed the post is missing altogether. Anyone know where o can purchase one? TIA
[quoted image][quoted image]
Factory.
Quoted from foobar:Hi folks,
I'm new to Pinball as a hobby and got myself a nice little treat for my birthday
My experience with Pinball is quite limited, but we had a fantastic Addam's Family at our Youth Club which I played a lot (but still sucked at, lol)
My pin is in a decent shape. Playfield is mostly okay, only few ditches in the plastics, T-Rex works (despite making some grinding noises), boards have been replaced while the box has a good collection of ditches... but i will start shooting a couple of questions at you.
I'd first like to start with protectors. I read good things about Mantis, but their shipping cost to Germany is 75$ which is twice than the merchandise's price.
Does anyone have experience with psbvtec? Ratings on ebay are looking good.
ebay.com link: itm[quoted image]
It looks great!
Hi folks,
Hoping to join the club tomorrow! I've been furiously reason this thread, but am only up to page 69 so far (nice).
I'm going to look at a JP where the seller has described it as "T-rex gear for left and right is missing teeth" and that they disabled the left right.
I see the gearbox is available from Marco. How painful is it to setup Rexy once the gearbox is changed?
Anything else specific I should look for? There's a couple broken sling plastics too, but those look available.
Thanks in advance!
Quoted from BMGfan:Hi folks,
Hoping to join the club tomorrow! I've been furiously reason this thread, but am only up to page 69 so far (nice).
I'm going to look at a JP where the seller has described it as "T-rex gear for left and right is missing teeth" and that they disabled the left right.
I see the gearbox is available from Marco. How painful is it to setup Rexy once the gearbox is changed?
Anything else specific I should look for? There's a couple broken sling plastics too, but those look available.
Thanks in advance!
A new side to side motor is not difficult to replace.
Is it currently running correctly? What else is not running poperly?
When you go to look at the pin, open the back box and see if there is any corrosion around the battery holder. NVRAM for DE is an easy installation and then you no longer need to worry about the batteries.
Fuse clips should be checked if you purchase the pin, they can get brittle and may need replacement.
Is the DMD overly loud? It should make some noise as it operating but should not be buzzing loudly.
Do any of the connectors on the boards look burnt or discolored? Easy fix but something that would need attention sooner rather than later.
Does it have the original power supply board installed, if so has a cap job been done yet? If not it then it should be done.
Upgraded to ChadH 6.0 code? Great code update and a must have. The code version will be listed on the ROMs on the mpu, sound and display driver boards.
The DE's can be known to have a lot of "buzz" from the speakers. This is normal and can be tamed with a buzz buster if needed.
Spare parts are available to inlcude pcb's if needed but they can get quite pricey. If you need to replace boards I highly recommend XPin products over Rottendog. The pricing is very similar for both but the Xpin build quality is far superior.
I do like JP but it can get frustrating at times due to ball times that can be on the short side. The outlanes are very hungry and nearly everything on the lower playfield is pointed at them. But that's why I like it so much too, keeps me coming back.
It's not a game with a lot of flow due to the scoops and way it's coded. But it is a fun challenge.
Quoted from Garrett:A new side to side motor is not difficult to replace.
Is it currently running correctly? What else is not running poperly?
When you go to look at the pin, open the back box and see if there is any corrosion around the battery holder. NVRAM for DE is an easy installation and then you no longer need to worry about the batteries.
Fuse clips should be checked if you purchase the pin, they can get brittle and may need replacement.
Is the DMD overly loud? It should make some noise as it operating but should not be buzzing loudly.
Do any of the connectors on the boards look burnt or discolored? Easy fix but something that would need attention sooner rather than later.
Does it have the original power supply board installed, if so has a cap job been done yet? If not it then it should be done.
Upgraded to ChadH 6.0 code? Great code update and a must have. The code version will be listed on the ROMs on the mpu, sound and display driver boards.
The DE's can be known to have a lot of "buzz" from the speakers. This is normal and can be tamed with a buzz buster if needed.
Spare parts are available to inlcude pcb's if needed but they can get quite pricey. If you need to replace boards I highly recommend XPin products over Rottendog. The pricing is very similar for both but the Xpin build quality is far superior.
I do like JP but it can get frustrating at times due to ball times that can be on the short side. The outlanes are very hungry and nearly everything on the lower playfield is pointed at them. But that's why I like it so much too, keeps me coming back.
It's not a game with a lot of flow due to the scoops and way it's coded. But it is a fun challenge.
Wow! Thank you so much for your comprehensive answer!
I don't mind a game at home with a little bite (pun intended), as I find it gives the game more legs when you play it everyday.
I'm game to buy it even with a broken Rexy as long as the price is right I really hope the numbers work to bring it home!
Quoted from BMGfan:Wow! Thank you so much for your comprehensive answer!
I don't mind a game at home with a little bite (pun intended), as I find it gives the game more legs when you play it everyday.
I'm game to buy it even with a broken Rexy as long as the price is right I really hope the numbers work to bring it home!
If you don't want to answer that's fine, but what's the asking price? Any upgrades? Playfield condition ok?
Great time to buy a pin. I've seen JP's from $4k and up on FB right now.
Quoted from Garrett:If you don't want to answer that's fine, but what's the asking price? Any upgrades? Playfield condition ok?
Great time to buy a pin. I've seen JP's from $4k and up on FB right now.
I'm in Canada so he's at 6k Cad which works out to right at pinside average of 4k. I don't have great pics, but it looks a bit dirty and possibly needs a shop from the pics.
IMHO pinside average is for a good "players" machine. A bit of wear, showing its age, but fully functioning. I'm going to talk him down based on the non-working Trex, and go from there I think.
I'm tempted to pass if there's no movement on price based on Rexy. I might choose to leave the left right disabled, but I want all my machines fully working even if they're not perfect.
I put LEDs in mine to include the flashers.
Highly recommend using incandecents in the flashers. DE titles use lots of flashers and the fast on/off of LED's is very hrash on the eyes. The incandecents have the fade so much easier on the eyes.
JP uses the flashers often and it's constant once Tri-Ball is lit.
There is a cheap mod to reduce the flashing effect of the LED's as well. Or you an get an LED smoother but not cheap.
This will all make sense once you see it. If in a well lit room it's not as much of an issue as in a low light room.
If you don't want any flashing you can just disconnect the flasher relay on the power supply board.
Quoted from Astill:I can supply nvram , leds and the new code and i am located in Canada.
Definitely get Dave to burn you the Chad code roms if your game isn't already running them.
Hey folks!
So I did indeed join the club today!
I'm definitely going to do NVRAM and Chad's code soon as soon as I get the eproms in and can get them burnt.
I do have a couple minor questions though? Is there a trough clear option on the 5.01 code? I don't see a reference to it in the manual, nor can I find it in the menus, I feel like I'm missing something really simple.
I also got the gate opening mod for it with the machine. It's never been installed, it's cool but I'm on the fence about it (pun intended). I know it's not available anymore, what's it worth if I decide to sell it?
So far the only major issue with it is Rexy, which I'll look into later. Previous owner said he never opened up the gearbox, so I'm thinking the grease might have just gotten old. It will turn left, but not right, which doesn't sound like "stripped gear teeth" to me. I'm thinking maybe the h bridge that swaps motor direction?
For the moment though......"Welcome to Jurassic Park"
Quoted from BMGfan:Hey folks!
So I did indeed join the club today!
I'm definitely going to do NVRAM and Chad's code soon as soon as I get the eproms in and can get them burnt.
I do have a couple minor questions though? Is there a trough clear option on the 5.01 code? I don't see a reference to it in the manual, nor can I find it in the menus, I feel like I'm missing something really simple.
I also got the gate opening mod for it with the machine. It's never been installed, it's cool but I'm on the fence about it (pun intended). I know it's not available anymore, what's it worth if I decide to sell it?
So far the only major issue with it is Rexy, which I'll look into later. Previous owner said he never opened up the gearbox, so I'm thinking the grease might have just gotten old. It will turn left, but not right, which doesn't sound like "stripped gear teeth" to me. I'm thinking maybe the h bridge that swaps motor direction?
For the moment though......"Welcome to Jurassic Park"
Share some pics
There's a board under the playfield that has two relays on it for the Trex movement, one is up down the other left right. Pull that board off and look at the traces on the back side. I had an issue due to a bad trace.
While the left right motion is cool at first, I found it to be an annoyance that slowed down the gameplay while waiting for Trex to find center. Left right movement is now turned it off. The game has enough stoppage with the scoops and DMD interaction for my tastes.
Gate mod? Do you mean this one?
https://pinside.com/pinball/shops/shop/1190-g-money-mods/02378-jurassic-park-3d-printed-gate-with-led-lighting
If so, very easy to install. Do note that if the LED's don't light up swap the leads.
Quoted from Garrett:Share some pics
There's a board under the playfield that has two relays on it for the Trex movement, one is up down the other left right. Pull that board off and look at the traces on the back side. I had an issue due to a bad trace.
While the left right motion is cool at first, I found it to be an annoyance that slowed down the gameplay while waiting for Trex to find center. Left right movement is now turned it off. The game has enough stoppage with the scoops and DMD interaction for my tastes.
Gate mod? Do you mean this one?
https://pinside.com/pinball/shops/shop/1190-g-money-mods/02378-jurassic-park-3d-printed-gate-with-led-lighting
If so, very easy to install. Do note that if the LED's don't light up swap the leads.
The mod is this one where the gates open during bonebusters and some other mode.
I'll definitely be looking at that board for sure! Thanks again for all the help!
PXL_20240426_193226250~2 (resized).jpgQuoted from BMGfan:It will turn left, but not right, which doesn't sound like "stripped gear teeth" to me. I'm thinking maybe the h bridge that swaps motor direction?"
Gotta respect a pinball tech who knows what an 'H' bridge is... *grins*
But this is one step back in technology. They actually use relay contacts to reverse the polarity of the terminals.
So in test mode make sure your relays are clicking, and then reflow the solder on the relay boards. As Garret says, it's a very common source of problems.
Quoted from Garrett:Gate mod? Do you mean this one?
https://pinside.com/pinball/shops/shop/1190-g-money-mods/02378-jurassic-park-3d-printed-gate-with-led-lighting
If so, very easy to install. Do note that if the LED's don't light up swap the leads.
He means this one. Very cool stuff.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/another-jp-gate-mod
To the OP, it’s worth at least $250 which is what it cost new. But since it’s unobtainium now it should be worth more.
Quoted from evileye:He means this one. Very cool stuff.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/another-jp-gate-mod
To the OP, it’s worth at least $250 which is what it cost new. But since it’s unobtainium now it should be worth more.
I'm really tempted to "trade it in" so to speak on a color DMD......
Quoted from BMGfan:I'm really tempted to "trade it in" so to speak on a color DMD......
Haha, I hear that. It’s a very cool mod though. I have it on mine. Looks great even when off.
Regardless you should have no issues selling it. Good luck!
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