DumbAss you are a true hero to the Bally / Williams world, among others (system 11, etc). If I needed a replacement board, yours is 100% where I'd go.

Yes, the RD I can see would maybe cause some belly aches, but a Dumbass board(s) would add value.

Why the animosity towards the Rottendog boards? When my OEM IJ power board was failing repeatedly, even after professional repair, I finally swapped it out for a RD board.

That was 16 years ago. Other than having to replace a single transistor once, that board has never let me down.

When I made the swap in 2008 it didn't seem like there were many options out there for replacement, and the RD board absolutely saved me. Yet on Pinside it rarely seems like anyone has anything positive to say. What gives?

Me personally have had issues with multiple of their boards. Yes, they were a great stand in when there was little to no options, but I'd rather a Dumbass board or a clean original over a RD any day.

Thank you. Read through briefly when testing the board. I am guessing either the shorted right bottom switch on PTA or the shorted J120 connector is what damaged the board. Which brings up another question. Has anyone made something to protect the bottom right switch on the upper play field? Seems to be a common issue with what I have read.

J120, white w/green wire had broke off and was touching the white w/yellow. All has since been replaced with new header and connector.

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This is just people and their opinions. I have been using RD boards for probably close to 2 decades and I have ran into problems twice. They are very solid. Over that same period I have spent thousands of dollars on repairs because people have those stupid battery packs attached to the original mpu's and didn't change the batteries. I actually hate to buy a machine with an original MPU because it is just going to cost me money to have NVRAM installed and or there is a very good chance of acid damage to that board now. and caps fail, period. OEM boards will fail and leak and operators hacked the hell out of them. And it is a joke all these people saying they have HUO machines. LMAO man I have been doing this for 25 years and back in the day a HUO machine was a unicorn. Now they are for sale every day on here lol

Hey all, I’m having mini playfield issues. I have replaced both boards now, under the playfield and the optos. I don’t know what’s next. Been through the forum, I thought the optos would be the last ditch effort. The issue is the mini playfield on start up shifts to the right, and it can’t seem to find where the straight in alignment is. In the test, the optos do read, motor does shift left and right, but that really only means it goes flat and to the right, or I force it to the left, but trying to get the motor to shift left and right just pushes the thing far right again. Any thoughts?

This post pretty well sums up my exact problem, though I have also replaced the board with a new one.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/indiana-jones-mini-playfield-not-centering

I don’t know if this additional info helps, but on start up, and even if I try to manually twist the ramp in place, the bar in the back that is supposed to go between the lower opto doesn’t reach down that far.

What tools do you have to trouble shoot this? Do you have a scope?

Off the top of my head, the key items are

1. Are the optos giving the right results
2. Is the motor being given the right voltage / polarity (forward/reverse)
3. Is the motor responding to the voltage/polarity correctly

For #1, it's not just the optos that the POA triggers when rotating left and right, but it's also the flipper opts. Keep in mind that during gameplay, the flipper opts are used to determine if the game should rotate left or right.

For #2, looking at the output on a scope would tell you if the motor is told to go the right direction (polarity)

For #3, while the voltage/polarity might be right, the motor gearbox might be in bad shape and not doing what's expected.

I know the above isn't a "this is the solution" type of post, but it highlights what I'd look at if I was having this problem.

I agree with you. I was having power board problems on my game as well along with a variety of other power issues. I replaced my sound board with a Pinsound board along with most of the other boards, including the power driver board, with Rottendog boards. It made an amazing difference and really brought my game back to life. I think that was probably 8 or 9 years ago. I was slightly surprised that the Pinsound board worked with the Rottendog boards without any issues. So far so good.

QSS

I had a similar issue and I changed a lot of things. And some new board actually made it worse. Start with basics- any corrosion on main board? If everything looks ok, get a new motor. I wired mine backwards and I kept changing stuff. Uugghh.. There is some red thing on new motors that is different on original- I remember that much. My problem was worse- it would turn past the opto.

Good luck

Were you burninating the country side?

I'm late to the Rottendog discussion, but for me personally, I have proactively changed out all of the OEM boards for Rottendog replacements to reduce wear on the originals (Pinsound for audio). I have all of the original boards with matching serial numbers wrapped up nicely after I serviced them and they will stay in storage for the time that I own this table, even the original DMD. I never plan on selling Indiana Jones: The Pinball Adventure, but if unforeseen circumstances happen where I am forced to do so, my thought process was to keep everything, both original and replacement items, in working condition to cater to all potential future owners.

Please help. Does anyone know where the prototype jackpot light board connectors go? 135 and 138? I have something already in 135 but should I move the other 2 up? And then put the jackpot connector in 135?

Ok so I figured it out. Went into the manual and found where connectors 133, 134, 135 should be. I had what should be in 133 in 135. So I moved that up and the jackpot light board went into its proper position at 135. Pretty cool to see this feature working!

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Right, that’s exactly what is happening, goes past the opto. I don’t have a scope that the other person suggested. I’m scratching my head on this thing - and it was working great before. The first thing that happened was the game started bypassing the mini PF all together. Then I changed the board under the playfield and it’s alive again - but now I can’t get it to align, which is why I tried replacing the board above. Frustrating!

Yup, that's exactly what I did too. All my original IJ boards and the DMD are packed up and safely stored.

QSS

I recently did the AnyPin NVRAM mod to my Indy and I was looking at all those caps on the pcbs. Do people generally do cap kits at this point on their pins as preventative maintenance? I almost always do that with the chassis on my monitors now when I get a cab that hasn't been recapped.

I send my boards to be professionally refurbished usually when I bring in a machine. Especially if they look suspect and have that old battery pack. Most of the time I replace them with new boards. The place I send them to usually takes 2-3 months. So it’s hard for me to have a machine down that long. I will stick in the new boards while they are being refurbished. Sometimes I will swap them back when they send back to me. It is up to you. I have them perform everything. They check over every aspect/component of the board and they are better than factory when finished. Been doing this a long time sold over 40 machines. Never once has someone asked if all the boards are all original. But obviously there are people out there that this is important to.

Curious where you send the original boards to in order to get them refreshed?

IMO Clive is the very best at this. https://www.coinopcauldron.com/brepairs.html

But I have used ChrisHibler also he does fine work.

I have used Shaun at the pinball wizard https://www.thepinballwizard.net/shop-by-game/

Also I have talked with Eugene Mosh about repairs as well.

I had a recent discussion with some guys that do repairs about if I should pull the boards and bullet proof them now and their general consensus seemed to be it's better to just what for something on the board to fail and do it then versus pulling a working board and doing all that work on it and accidently breaking a board that was working fine. I think either way you go is logical and up to the owner, and stuff could break either way.

There are probably a number of guys out there that do this work. The two I'm most aware of here in the midwest are Chris Hibler who does a lot of the WPC boards and Dylan Ramey(Dr Pinball) who currently does a lot of System 3-11 stuff but I think is going to upgrade his bench at some point to do WPC.

https://pinside.com/pinball/community/pinsiders/chrishibler
https://pinside.com/pinball/community/pinsiders/dr-pinball

Great references. Thanks guys!

I had a note to post back here when more of these were available, so if I did not get back to you directly - apologies!

I have a couple more of these left:

Pin2DMD Brand New: Licensed, activated, and includes wiring harness. Easy to follow install instructions/video.

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$275 shipped (US ONLY), elsewhere actual cost.

Please PM if interested, thanks!

I was playing a game and got to the Path of Adventure. Well, I tilted the path during game with flipper buttons and the path remained tilted after that during the whole game until I went to miniplayfield test via the coin door where I tested the path and in the test mode the path seemed to work ok. Also when exiting the game menus, the path straightened itself automatically. Could this be an opto problem (new opto board needed) or a power problem or what? I have pinsound with shaker consuming power from the game at the moment.

Thanks for any help!

Got one from Phoerber, and end to end the experience was great! I’ve been wanting to spring for a color DMD for years but as with many, price is a barrier. Finally made the leap, and decided to go the Pin2DMD route over ColorDMD. Now that it’s installed, I’m glad I did!

To be fair, there are definitely colorization decisions that I like better in the ColorDMD than with this one. But I also realize it’s creative decisions made by people, and it’s only on a few things. The overall creative is great! I bought three, TAF, IJ and one for GB. Installed TAF first, again great, and just colorization decisions on things like filling the “SHOWTIME” letters with different colors on this one vs just one color on the colorDMD version. With IJ, the large score numbers have the red to yellow transition of the IJ logo on the colorDMD vs more of a flat color on pin2dmd.

The cut and video scenes all look great though on the pin2dmd, which makes those choices few and far between. So at almost half the price, I’m good with it, and instantly has me playing more to enjoy the look of the colored LED. (And yes, either company I went with I was in on the LED over the LCD - personal preference).

The experience was totally plug and play, super easy to order and to install, and I’m super happy to finally have made the jump to color!

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Finally got under the hood and I think this is the problem (picture attached). Do I need to have this repaired or can I order a replacement board (anybody making them)?

Thanks!

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This might help you out?

https://www.thepinballwizard.net/electronics/electrical/bridge-driver-replacement-board-for-williams-indiana-jones-a-15946/

Yup that’s gone for sure

Hard to see the extent of the damage but the repair might not be too bad if it's just common components like the capacitor, diodes, resistors, etc... I don't know how hard it is to source anything else on there. The transistors seem to be fairly cheap and common as well.

Also available at pinball life:
https://www.pinballlife.com/bridge-driver-replacement-board-for-williams-indiana-jones-a-15946.html

I'm not an expert at this, but I think the leaking electrolytic can damage traces and surrounding components.

If it were me, I'd remove the bad components, wash the board, check traces, and reassemble.

Should be an easy repair for someone with some experience

Hi, several years i'm making custom grips for Indiana Jones pistol ball launcher. I recently add a lot of precious and rare New Woods to the collection.

Here the pinside thread link

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/indiana-jones-wood-handle-gun-plates-mod

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Thanks so much for the kind words guys, appreciate it!

oh very nice!!

How do they attach?
How much for a set of walnut?

Some might say endangered rainforest timbers rather than rare and precious.

What species wood is on Indiana's gun grip in the movies?

This might help.

https://www.imfdb.org/wiki/Raiders_of_the_Lost_Ark

Just me but I do not think I would upgrade to the brass gun because he does not use any brass guns in the movies. The grips may or may not be cool IMO. But like all things pinball it is up to the owner to determine how he or she would like their machine to look. I grow tired of the people who come on pinside and criticize peoples machines. If they are stock, if they are not. Then they pick and choose what to change on their machines and criticize people who make changes. No one cares dude...

Nobody has done this mate.....

There's no critizing peoples machines going on here. You are making that up.

OH wow someone did not like my comment. LMAO dude.

No. It was made up crap aimed only at shitstirring a peaceful conversation and starting an argument.

Bad form.

I have been helping alot out in this thread. just in the last few posts: I have told someone where to send there boards to be fixed. I helped someone who may want to find a replacement board and linked a site where they can find that board. Someone asked what grips were in the movies and I supplied a link. However, I think you are making a bigger deal out my opinion than necessary. That is fine, I just found it amusing.

Sure, no doubt.

This S&W from the Wiki looks fairly close to the stock one on the game. A handle like this might be cool but I think you’d need to mod the whole gun as the grip is molded

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A mod that would incorporate real lever action with a working hammer would be excellent (a pinch hazard) but excellent .

Yeah, I prefer the black gun and I have thought about adding the grips. So I thought it was cool that guy posted his grips. Not saying I haven’t thought of the brass gun. they are cool. I think whatever makes people happy then that’s great too.

Very nice mod!! A++

I added these on Indy and similar on my Shadow. I like them, they look rich and add to the feel of the gun grip. With or without is fine too!

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