Indiana Jones: The Pinball Adventure
Williams, 1993Quoted from Williampinball:Yes I thought so too I thought he needed where the hole is for the gun so right side of cab to the gun hole and from right side from top of cab down to the gun hole
Maybe this can help?
https://github.com/jonaskello/wpc-cabinet/blob/master/references/front_shooters_v2.png
Quoted from jazc4:If this isn’t what you meant just let me know and I’ll take more.
Thanks jazc4 for helping. Close but looking for the measurements from the face of the front cabinet to the top and to the side of the gun mount itself. Converting a JD cabinet for a scratch build IJ.
Just need the correct position of the entire gun assembly on the front face of the cabinet. If I get those measurements I can figure out the carriage bolt and switch holes I need to drill for the cabinet.
Thanks zig. I think the bottom left drawing should work for an IJ yes??
Quoted from zimzam:Thanks jazc4 for helping. Close but looking for the measurements from the face of the front cabinet to the top and to the side of the gun mount itself. Converting a JD cabinet for a scratch build IJ.
Just need the correct position of the entire gun assembly on the front face of the cabinet. If I get those measurements I can figure out the carriage bolt and switch holes I need to drill for the cabinet.Thanks zig. I think the bottom left drawing should work for an IJ yes??
I think so, yes. You might want to double check and measure the hole distances on the gun itself and see if it matches the drawing.
Quoted from Zigzagzag:I think so, yes. You might want to double check and measure the hole distances on the gun itself and see if it matches the drawing.
Will do.
Thanks to everyone who responded. Any measurements of any of the holes will work but didn’t want anyone to have to take the gun off so the measurements to the side and top of the gun as its bolted to the cabinet will be all that I need.
I should be good off zigs drawings he sent for the other “gun” plunger games.
edit: Got what I needed and I am all set. Thanks again everyone
Got IJ all back together tonight. Man it's great. Bright. Colorful. And man it's fun to play. Looks even better now I think. The lights and decals really bring it to life. With 2 coats of wax after a deep clean it plays great.
Except.... I installed the cliffy mode start backstop bumper thing. It sucks. It just rejects. It won't allow the shot. I took it all apart (and if you've ever done this you know it's a HUGE pain. You have to remove the POA!), took the part off, bent it back, reinstalled everything and it still just rejected.
I'll put some time into bending the side rail as well as the backstop and/or just put the stock one in with some electric tape around it to deaden the shot a tad. I think the rubber piece is overkill.
20240320_224027 (resized).jpg20240320_235234 (resized).jpg20240320_235312 (resized).jpg20240320_235329 (resized).jpg20240320_235401 (resized).jpgQuoted from Ecw0930:Got IJ all back together tonight. Man it's great. Bright. Colorful. And man it's fun to play. Looks even better now I think. The lights and decals really bring it to life. With 2 coats of wax after a deep clean it plays great.
Except.... I installed the cliffy mode start backstop bumper thing. It sucks. It just rejects. It won't allow the shot. I took it all apart (and if you've ever done this you know it's a HUGE pain. You have to remove the POA!), took the part off, bent it back, reinstalled everything and it still just rejected.
I'll put some time into bending the side rail as well as the backstop and/or just put the stock one in with some electric tape around it to deaden the shot a tad. I think the rubber piece is overkill.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
You did a superb job with these Pinstein decals! Am convinced that these decals are the way to go in a build based on your awesome photos
Regarding your backstop, the deadstop foam that Sonic has would be an option for you. It's very valuable you saying that the bumper didn't work for you, so thank you for sharing. Did you lower your saucer with this set?
Quoted from MiniPinHead:Regarding your backstop, the deadstop foam that Sonic has would be an option for you. It's very valuable you saying that the bumper didn't work for you, so thank you for sharing.
Its the stuff of dreams
Quoted from Ecw0930:Got IJ all back together tonight. Man it's great. Bright. Colorful. And man it's fun to play. Looks even better now I think. The lights and decals really bring it to life. With 2 coats of wax after a deep clean it plays great.
Except.... I installed the cliffy mode start backstop bumper thing. It sucks. It just rejects. It won't allow the shot. I took it all apart (and if you've ever done this you know it's a HUGE pain. You have to remove the POA!), took the part off, bent it back, reinstalled everything and it still just rejected.
I'll put some time into bending the side rail as well as the backstop and/or just put the stock one in with some electric tape around it to deaden the shot a tad. I think the rubber piece is overkill.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Quoted from MiniPinHead:You did a superb job with these Pinstein decals! Am convinced that these decals are the way to go in a build based on your awesome photos
Regarding your backstop, the deadstop foam that Sonic has would be an option for you. It's very valuable you saying that the bumper didn't work for you, so thank you for sharing. Did you lower your saucer with this set?
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1279-2steps-shop/04212-williams-indiana-jones-1993-saucer-lock-em-kit
The decals are amazing. Super high quality. Vibrant, saturated and stick well. Mine were cut to size and I really enjoyed the process. It was great to "create" something to make my game unique yet in line and not way off base. I'm still amazed at how well the jungle matches. I have yet to add the SIDE BLADES so watch out for those pics coming soon! I would highly recommend ordering a set for yourself.
I looked at the piece. I'm up in the air about it. For now I'm going to stick to going back to the original backstop and adding foam to deaden it. Perhaps removing it all together and putting foam on the rail.
Quoted from jazc4:Those decals make a huge difference.
I agree. I sent pictures to my buddy and he was like "I don't know the game, but they must be really well integrated because I can't tell what is stock and what you added."
There are still a few decals I may add as well. Waiting for USPS to get their ish together on a package with some apron stuff that they have in pergatory. Then maybe put the rest of these decals on.
Quoted from Ecw0930:Got IJ all back together tonight. Man it's great. Bright. Colorful. And man it's fun to play. Looks even better now I think. The lights and decals really bring it to life. With 2 coats of wax after a deep clean it plays great.
Except.... I installed the cliffy mode start backstop bumper thing. It sucks. It just rejects. It won't allow the shot. I took it all apart (and if you've ever done this you know it's a HUGE pain. You have to remove the POA!), took the part off, bent it back, reinstalled everything and it still just rejected.
I'll put some time into bending the side rail as well as the backstop and/or just put the stock one in with some electric tape around it to deaden the shot a tad. I think the rubber piece is overkill.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Looks fantastic! I ordered these decals a couple months ago and I’m also very happy with them.
You said they were cut to size - I don’t recall having the curvy stone decal that covers the metal flap at top of POA or the triangular metal at bottom of POA. So you didn’t have to cut any of those?
One suggestion, add an 8” sunlight comet LED matrix light strip above the rope bridge and then add their star post fire LED under the mode saucer shining up (makes mode saucer look like burning lava)… I posted these a while back and can help. $20 shipped max for both lights.
Quoted from PinDeadHead:Looks fantastic! I ordered these decals a couple months ago and I’m also very happy with them.
You said they were cut to size - I don’t recall having the curvy stone decal that covers the metal flap at top of POA or the triangular metal at bottom of POA. So you didn’t have to cut any of those?
One suggestion, add an 8” sunlight comet LED matrix light strip above the rope bridge and then add their star post fire LED under the mode saucer shining up (makes mode saucer look like burning lava)… I posted these a while back and can help. $20 shipped max for both lights.
By cut to size I meant I had to cut them to size. Which was nice for me because I could do the custom ones and use as much as I had/needed.
I actually bought an led strip to do exactly what you said. But, my rope bridge light board works well so I'm not sure where I'm going to put that LED strip.
Quoted from Sonic:Its the stuff of dreams
This
Quoted from MiniPinHead:You did a superb job with these Pinstein decals! Am convinced that these decals are the way to go in a build based on your awesome photos
Regarding your backstop, the deadstop foam that Sonic has would be an option for you. It's very valuable you saying that the bumper didn't work for you, so thank you for sharing. Did you lower your saucer with this set?
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1279-2steps-shop/04212-williams-indiana-jones-1993-saucer-lock-em-kit
This too
And then the mod called the antidote if you really want to have some fun, there is an immense amount of bending and adjusting with this one if you go down this rabbit hole
Quoted from Chosen_S:This
This too
And then the mod called the antidote if you really want to have some fun, there is an immense amount of bending and adjusting with this one if you go down this rabbit hole
I have gone down that rabbit hole head first! I hate it. I have taken pictures along the way in hopes of finding the fix. But no such thing yet. Right now I'm at the point of drilling out the holes in the deflector to move it back away from the saucer. I can't believe it's such a bad design from the factory. I've bent, replaced, bent back, removed....
I also just learned that there's supposed to be a plastic over it! My game doesn't have one! I ordered one lastnight.
I'm goin to try to lower the saucer, move the deflector back, add the NOS plastic that goes there, and maybe add a foam on that plastic.
It sucks to play it right now because I can nail that shot and it literally NEVER stays in there at this point.
And I need to get this done so I can stop lifting the playfield and put my art blades on!!!!!
Quoted from Ecw0930:I have gone down that rabbit hole head first! I hate it. I have taken pictures along the way in hopes of finding the fix. But no such thing yet. Right now I'm at the point of drilling out the holes in the deflector to move it back away from the saucer. I can't believe it's such a bad design from the factory. I've bent, replaced, bent back, removed....
Put foam tape on both side rails and the deflector and it will be a major improvement.
Quoted from Ecw0930:I have gone down that rabbit hole head first! I hate it. I have taken pictures along the way in hopes of finding the fix. But no such thing yet. Right now I'm at the point of drilling out the holes in the deflector to move it back away from the saucer. I can't believe it's such a bad design from the factory. I've bent, replaced, bent back, removed....
I also just learned that there's supposed to be a plastic over it! My game doesn't have one! I ordered one lastnight.
I'm goin to try to lower the saucer, move the deflector back, add the NOS plastic that goes there, and maybe add a foam on that plastic.
It sucks to play it right now because I can nail that shot and it literally NEVER stays in there at this point.
And I need to get this done so I can stop lifting the playfield and put my art blades on!!!!!
Went down that same rabbit hole with all of those "fixes".. Only thing that finally worked: Remove Deflector, add a piece of this at the back, Problem solved
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000HE4YZG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title
Quoted from Ecw0930:I have gone down that rabbit hole head first! I hate it. I have taken pictures along the way in hopes of finding the fix. But no such thing yet. Right now I'm at the point of drilling out the holes in the deflector to move it back away from the saucer. I can't believe it's such a bad design from the factory. I've bent, replaced, bent back, removed....
I also just learned that there's supposed to be a plastic over it! My game doesn't have one! I ordered one lastnight.
I'm goin to try to lower the saucer, move the deflector back, add the NOS plastic that goes there, and maybe add a foam on that plastic.
It sucks to play it right now because I can nail that shot and it literally NEVER stays in there at this point.
And I need to get this done so I can stop lifting the playfield and put my art blades on!!!!!
Here’s another one for you to consider!
https://mantispinball.com/pinball-parts/indiana-jones-williams/indiana-jones-start-mode-bracket/
I bought my IJ in 1995 from Atlas after an operator traded it in, then went thru the manual and ordered various unique parts to have as spares. I've used some since then (swapped the right ramp and had the new ruins painted by Medisinyl to match his PoA rails). Pic below shows new OEM idol, left metal ramp, and planes with my original right plastic ramp, ruins, and red PoA rails.
IJ spare parts (resized).jpg
Not looking to sell, as I paid full price decades ago and I would have to charge a lot to part with them.
Quoted from Williampinball:The ramps will look great when cleaned up I am sure.
I guess I should have at least wiped off the years of accumulated dust before taking the pic.
Quoted from littlecammi:I bought my IJ in 1995 from Atlas after an operator traded it in, then went thru the manual and ordered various unique parts to have as spares. I've used some since then (swapped the right ramp and had the new ruins painted by Medisinyl to match his PoA rails). Pic below shows new OEM idol, left metal ramp, and planes with my original right plastic ramp, ruins, and red PoA rails.
[quoted image]
Not looking to sell, as I paid full price decades ago and I would have to charge a lot to part with them.
WOW!! Those would be GREAT to have!
Quoted from littlecammi:I bought my IJ in 1995 from Atlas after an operator traded it in, then went thru the manual and ordered various unique parts to have as spares. I've used some since then (swapped the right ramp and had the new ruins painted by Medisinyl to match his PoA rails). Pic below shows new OEM idol, left metal ramp, and planes with my original right plastic ramp, ruins, and red PoA rails.
[quoted image]
Not looking to sell, as I paid full price decades ago and I would have to charge a lot to part with them.
The ramps don’t look the best too me are they ?
I have figured out a good solution for the mode start shot.
I took the blue rubber off the cliffy deflector and stuck very light weight foam to it.
I also drill out the slots a bit more to push it back away from the hole evern farther.
I also bent it to make sure it was protected opto there.
Shots aren't 100% but they are 90% I'd say. It's rewarding to hit that shot and have it stick. Still sucks when it doesn't, but that's pinball.
I've got a bad switch on the POA. Top right. Hopefully it's easy, and once that's done it's time for art blades.
20240324_222035 (resized).jpg20240324_222043 (resized).jpgQuoted from Ecw0930:I have figured out a good solution for the mode start shot.
I took the blue rubber off the cliffy deflector and stuck very light weight foam to it.
I also drill out the slots a bit more to push it back away from the hole evern farther.
I also bent it to make sure it was protected opto there.
Shots aren't 100% but they are 90% I'd say. It's rewarding to hit that shot and have it stick. Still sucks when it doesn't, but that's pinball.
I've got a bad switch on the POA. Top right. Hopefully it's easy, and once that's done it's time for art blades.
[quoted image][quoted image]
I see what you did there, I was pretty frustrated with that shot, I did the antidote mod, it has to be bent just right for it to work ok. Yes you might consider getting the clear plastic protector and the original plastic that goes over the mode shot. That lightweight foam wont last long unfortunately. That dead foam the guys here are talking about will last much longer.
I hate that you’re having so much trouble.
Quoted from Chosen_S:I see what you did there, I was pretty frustrated with that shot, I did the antidote mod, it has to be bent just right for it to work ok. Yes you might consider getting the clear plastic protector and the original plastic that goes over the mode shot. That lightweight foam wont last long unfortunately. That dead foam the guys here are talking about will last much longer.
I hate that you’re having so much trouble.
I ordered the plastic so hopefully that gets here this week.
Will be interesting to see how long the foam lasts. Good news is I have lots of it. Maybe I'll try to track down this dead foam stuff.
Here’s what I did. Wasn’t pretty but it worked after bending and cutting the bottom where the screws go so it fits within the side rail
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/ij-williams-you-cheat-dr-jones-club/page/132#post-5852133
IMG_2483 (resized).jpegIMG_2484 (resized).jpegQuoted from Sheev_Palpatine:Ok I remember now. I just adjusted the wire actuator that triggers the switch. When inspecting this again it seems I might have a cold solder joint on the switch. Because when it comes to testing, it tests fine every time. But I bumped the wires and it stopped working momentarily. Starting to think I need to hit that again with my iron. I’m not that great of a solder guy. Also remember with that set screw on the bottom of the mech with the wing nut. you can raise and lower it a bit. But be mindful, don’t get it to the point the ball will get stuck in the hole. Best to do this with the mech in the machine for proper placement. Also, yes the two screws adjuster on the switch may come in handy. Case by case scenario I bet. Now onto the POA LOL I had a marathon game last night and all sorts of things went haywire.
I loosened the coil stop screw ensuring the single drop triggers the switch in the down position (so I could hear the switch click).
After a few test start ups with the drop in the down position, I determined this solved my issue.
Instead of the “zip zip zip” - coil firing 3x during start up followed by that switch/coil error, the drop goes up and down and no error.
Quoted from PinDeadHead:I loosened the coil stop screw ensuring the single drop triggers the switch in the down position (so I could hear the switch click).
After a few test start ups with the drop in the down position, I determined this solved my issue.
Instead of the “zip zip zip” - coil firing 3x during start up followed by that switch/coil error, the drop goes up and down and no error.
That's Awesome news! That zip zip zip followed by the bang bang bang is so annoying lol Good Job!
Well I redid the decals on my machine. No more fade, completely redid all the metal to brass. Also did the LOR package in the playfield, lighted jackpot, plane mod that has the moving prop and shooting leds. New pop covers that are resign cast and glow through like the idol etc. Video below, I plan on making myself a biplane besides bf109 on the right ramp that has a prop moving as well for. Added the full pinsound package. I think it's turned out pretty nice so far. I also will be putting in the larger xl pin2dmd but had an issue with it being DOA. Taking it to the MGC convention.
Quoted from Conrad:Well I redid the decals on my machine. No more fade, completely redid all the metal to brass. Also did the LOR package in the playfield, lighted jackpot, plane mod that has the moving prop and shooting leds. New pop covers that are resign cast and glow through like the idol etc. Video below, I plan on making myself a biplane besides bf109 on the right ramp that has a prop moving as well for. Added the full pinsound package. I think it's turned out pretty nice so far. I also will be putting in the larger xl pin2dmd but had an issue with it being DOA. Taking it to the MGC convention.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/Sx7zeYMb4mDreZNk6
https://photos.app.goo.gl/2xMH3LWR4DotYdbg7
Looks fantastic! What color is the powder coat? It looks sharp.
I was wondering if anyone has a suggestion for brass plating? I have my machine brass powder coated. I like it but I also like the brass plating look. I know people say the Lockbar will become ugly. Once upon a time I had an Addams gold and I don’t remember that being an issue? Anyhow any suggestions will be appreciated.
Quoted from Sheev_Palpatine:I was wondering if anyone has a suggestion for brass plating? I have my machine brass powder coated. I like it but I also like the brass plating look. I know people say the Lockbar will become ugly. Once upon a time I had an Addams gold and I don’t remember that being an issue? Anyhow any suggestions will be appreciated.
You could check with Chris Royalty at Pinball Plating.com. I know he has some options including brass. I’ve converted a few pins to chrome and he did a beautiful job. My TOTAN is brass, but it was already that way when I got it. I did add new brass legs from Chris and they look awesome. Here are a couple pics.
IMG_0136 (resized).jpegIMG_0134 (resized).jpegIMG_5152 (resized).jpegQuoted from PinDeadHead:Looks fantastic! What color is the powder coat? It looks sharp.
It is brass plated. Most came from pinball plating. Some was outsourced from others as he didn't haven't the stock. The only thing that was brass when I got it were the legs. I don't see it becoming ugly over time if kept up with on cleaning etc. I put a nano ceramic coating on it. Just regular maintenance of cleaning I would think.
Quoted from Sheev_Palpatine:I was wondering if anyone has a suggestion for brass plating? I have my machine brass powder coated. I like it but I also like the brass plating look. I know people say the Lockbar will become ugly. Once upon a time I had an Addams gold and I don’t remember that being an issue? Anyhow any suggestions will be appreciated.
I've had 2 Indiana Jones machines that were brass plated. The first was done a long time ago, and it did have the issue of the brass plating wearing off over time. The second machine was done by Chris @ pinballplating.com.
I haven't had any issues with the lockdown bar on this game. I'm not sure if he's putting a clear coat on top or if I've just been extra careful to wipe down the lockdown bar after playing, but it looks as good as the first day I installed it. That was 3 years ago.
wish i could find a brass powdercoat that looks that good. All of the samples I've sprayed don't come close.
Quoted from OTRChief:Specifically what product did you use?
Not the OP but I use this on my car and it works great.
PinballPlating does clear coat his brass plating. They look very nice, but also you can see the fine-grit sandpaper scratches that are either in the clearcoat or in the metal that the brass is plated to. Maybe it's very difficult to get a mirror piano finish with plating. Apply a car wax to the clearcoat maybe once a year and your lockdown bar should be protected from the oils in yours hands.
Has anyone used this Indiana Jones Pinball Lock Hole \ Subway Entry Protector with success:
https://www.printables.com/model/77552-indiana-jones-pinball-lock-hole-subway-entry-prote
Very curious if this is the best option for preventing wear here.
Quoted from MiniPinHead:Has anyone used this Indiana Jones Pinball Lock Hole \ Subway Entry Protector with success:
https://www.printables.com/model/77552-indiana-jones-pinball-lock-hole-subway-entry-prote
Very curious if this is the best option for preventing wear here.
[quoted image]
That scoop is too high to fit in the mode scoop location. It will require alterations to fit.
Quoted from Ricochet:That scoop is too high to fit in the mode scoop location. It will require alterations to fit.
Don’t think that’s what is being asked about here. Was curious about this print as well since Cliffy doesn’t provide a protector for this hole that does start to wear.
Quoted from SiN13:Don’t think that’s what is being asked about here. Was curious about this print as well since Cliffy doesn’t provide a protector for this hole that does start to wear.
Whoops you are correct.
Not sure but I thought I saw someone making an insert for that hole… but I may be mistaken… old brain.
I have a finicky socket on the large light board for the “Hands of Fate” inlane LED. A chap recently posted he reflowed the solder on the three spots where the socket was connected to the board and that worked for him. In his case the socket had been completely removed.
In my case the socket is installed, but the light is intermittent, if I put pressure on the socket the LED will illuminate, no pressure and it wont.
I tried reflowing solder on the three connection points where the socket meets the board, by touching the hot soldering iron to the old dried solder areas, but no luck. Does anyone have any other recommendations?
TIA
IMG_3006 (resized).jpegIMG_3023 (resized).jpegQuoted from PinDeadHead:I have a finicky socket on the large light board for the “Hands of Fate” inlane LED. A chap recently posted he reflowed the solder on the three spots where the socket was connected to the board and that worked for him. In his case the socket had been completely removed.
In my case the socket is installed, but the light is intermittent, if I put pressure on the socket the LED will illuminate, no pressure and it wont.
I tried reflowing solder on the three connection points where the socket meets the board, by touching the hot soldering iron to the old dried solder areas, but no luck. Does anyone have any other recommendations?
TIA
[quoted image][quoted image]
Use a small piece of wire that will fit in there … as a wick to help. Plenty-o-flux. The plating on those sockets is sh1t!
Quoted from Williampinball:I had the same thing happen on my I just resolder and pins and worked for my
Me too! Years ago. Found it in the bottom of cabinet.
Isn’t that a Gi light? I forgot.
Quoted from Williampinball:I had the same thing happen on my I just resolder and pins and worked for my
Add new solder or just reheat old?
Quoted from altan:Me too! Years ago. Found it in the bottom of cabinet.
Isn’t that a Gi light? I forgot.
Yes, hands of fate inlane led. Lights when you qualify HOF
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Stavanger
Grand Rapids, MI
Odense
Collingwood, ON
