(Topic ID: 351251)

HerculEASE JJP Flipper Power/Consistency Kit

By altan

85 days ago


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  • 239 posts
  • 83 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 25 hours ago by tilted81
  • Topic is favorited by 79 Pinsiders

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    21
    #1 85 days ago

    ***
    *** Ordering and Manual
    ***

    To order, please use my Pinside store linked below.

    https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1579-skillshot-combo/10267-herculease-flipper-strength-diy-kit-jjp

    You can view the installation manual here:

    https://www.skillshotcombo.com/products/manuals/HerculEASE-Installation.pdf

    ***
    *** Introducing HerculEASE Hero Edition!
    ***

    Announcing HerculEASE Hero Edition.

    The Hero Edition offers all the HerculEASE functionality that people love while offering improvements to the original design.

    Most noticeable is the new HerculEASE Podium. The podium is a custom designed holder for the HerculEASE capacitors, potentially replacing the zip tie and adhesive. When used in the backbox, the podium easily and securely mounts to a readily accessible bolt for stability. Since the back of the podium is flat, it can alternately mount with adhesive (when used within a cabinet).

    With the Hero Edition, the HerculEASE fuses have been updated with a custom designed holder providing stability and allowing even easier installation. The holder allows the installer to easily grab and snap the fuse in place.

    Finally, HerculEASE Hero Edition is designed to discharge the capacitors in the unlikely (and strongly warned against) situation where the HerculEASE fuse is removed from the game before the capacitors fully discharge. Discharge takes around 45 seconds.

    Hero Edition is pictured below.

    IMG_4214 (resized).jpegIMG_4214 (resized).jpeg

    The front and back of the HerculEASE Podium are pictured below.

    IMG_4215 (resized).jpegIMG_4215 (resized).jpeg
    IMG_4216 (resized).jpegIMG_4216 (resized).jpeg

    Here's a picture of the HerculEASE Podium securely mounted inside the backbox.

    IMG_4217 (resized).jpegIMG_4217 (resized).jpeg

    ***
    *** Some Pinsider Comments
    ***

    Here are some quotes from pinsiders in this thread:

    • "I was picked to try this on my POTC. It is amazing"

    • "... instructions are spot on"

    • "Just installed on GnR. Huge difference!!"

    • "Received it today and had it installed 15 minutes later. Piece of cake install."

    • "... much better than stock!" (Wonka)

    • "From the first flip you could tell the flippers were snappier" (WOZ)

    • "... it makes a very noticeable difference. Less wet noodle feeling flippers. Well done!"

    • "Another satisfied customer. The kickback on Wonka is defiantly stronger"

    • "... the install was easy and it made the flippers better" (WOZ)

    • "Hooray for this mod!!" (Hobbit)

    • "... it makes a huge difference, and I just doubled my GC on my first play so that’s something"

    • "Kit definitely makes a difference on Wonka"

    • "Installation is very easy and took 5 to 10 minutes"

    • "I did notice a marked difference in the strength of the flippers. Could backhand the left ramp from the left flipper with much greater frequency than before the installation..." (Dialed In)

    • "Added this to my GNR and really happy with it. So much easier to make the ramps..."

    • "Just installed in Dialed In LE, Hobbit LE and GNR CE, what a difference! ... HUUUUUUUUUUGE !"

    • "Install was super easy, took 10 min"

    • "Much more fun now to play GNR"

    • "Just installed this on my GNR and wow does it shoot so much better. Total game changer. A must buy if you own the game. Easy install."

    • "Another happy customer. Could feel the difference in flipper power."

    ***
    *** HerculEASE Info
    ***

    Some people are just fine with the existing JJP flipper feel. If that’s you, then great! You don’t need to change a thing. But if you are interested in experimenting with potentially stronger and more consistent flippers, read on.

    Introducing HerculEASE, the easy to install, no solder, reversible solution to increasing flipper power and consistency in just a few minutes.

    Replace 2 fuses with the HerculEASE fuses
    Connect two HerculEASE terminals to a screw on the existing IO board
    Attach the HerculEASE capacitors to the backbox for stability

    No need to remove the large IO board or remove the almost 20 cables.

    You’ve probably seen all the buzz surrounding JJP’s “Fully Populated Updated I/O Board” and the energy it adds to older games. It has received praise for delivering stronger and more consistent flippers. Yet it costs upwards of $400 with shipping.

    While JJP has not engaged in the conversation, the notable difference offered by the new board appears to be much larger capacitors on the circuits driving features such as flippers. Many have experimented and replaced their original board’s capacitors with higher value ones and experienced revitalized flippers. Because the higher value capacitors are wider than the originals, this experimental effort requires additional work beyond desoldering and soldering to make everything fit.

    HerculEASE is experimental and not approved by JJP. Just like other DIY efforts being done by Pinsiders. It’s a “use at your own risk” solution.

    Each HerculEASE is hand made. I’m currently running HerculEASE in my Guns’N’Roses pin as well as my Dialed In! And the results are amazing.

    ***
    *** Alternatives
    ***

    HerculEASE isn’t the only option so let’s look at alternatives.

    First option. You can purchase the updated $400 board, remove almost 20 cables, loosen the stands, finesse the large 19-inch wide board around an abundance of cables and remove it from the backbox. Then insert the new $400 board back though the cables, carefully align it on the stands, reattach the 20-some cables to the correct locations and check you haven’t missed a connector that’s hiding behind some wires or the new board itself. This is a valid approach, and you get the 100% official I/O board.

    Second option. You can go the DIY route for probably less than $20 and pull out your soldering iron. While approaches vary, you need to source the correct capacitors, lead extensions, stand and adhesive. Go through all the steps to remove the existing IO board, carefully desolder the existing capacitors without destroying the pads or through holes, solder lead extensions to the new capacitors, build or print capacitor stands, solder the new caps to the IO board and finish up with appropriate adhesive to hold everything in place. Then reinstall the modified IO board and connect the 20-some cables. This is a valid approach for people with the appropriate skills.

    Finally, you can go the HerculEASE approach and leave everything in the backbox and don’t touch the 20-some cables. Instead you replace 2 fuses with the HerculEASE fuses, connect two terminals to a screw, and use a zip tie to hold the HerculEASE capacitors in place. This is great for anyone who wants simplicity as well as the ability to easily back out the modification.

    #2 85 days ago

    Great news! I don’t own any JJPs, would love to have DI and Wonka, but those flippers feel atrocious no matter how hard some people kept defending them!

    Very glad to hear there is a fix and JJP themselves finally admitted their flippers were dogshit from the start. Following this thread!

    #3 85 days ago

    I’m in! Sounds fabulous

    #4 85 days ago

    Lovey idea and solution. Will be a real asset to those that want a simple plug-n-play with no soldering. Well done!

    #5 85 days ago
    Quoted from Isochronic_Frost:

    Great news! I don’t own any JJPs, would love to have DI and Wonka, but those flippers feel atrocious no matter how hard some people kept defending them!
    Very glad to hear there is a fix and JJP themselves finally admitted their flippers were dogshit from the start. Following this thread!

    You might want to check out these threads.
    https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jjp-fully-populated-enhanced-i-o-board/page/10#post-8012777

    https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-official-jjp-gnr-thread/page/551#post-8012769

    #6 85 days ago
    Quoted from altan:

    Some people are just fine with the existing JJP flipper feel. If that’s you, then great! You don’t need to change a thing. But if you are interested in stronger and more consistent flippers, read on.
    Introducing HerculEASE, the easy to install, no solder, reversible solution to increasing flipper power and consistency in just a few minutes.
    Replace 2 fuses with the HerculEASE fuses
    Connect two HerculEASE terminals to a screw on the existing IO board
    Attach the HerculEASE capacitors to the backbox for stability
    No need to remove the large IO board or remove the almost 20 cables.
    You’ve probably seen all the buzz surrounding JJP’s “Fully Populated Updated I/O Board” and the energy it adds to older games. It has received praise for delivering stronger and more consistent flippers. Yet it costs upwards of $400 with shipping.
    While JJP has not engaged in the conversation, the notable difference offered by the new board appears to be much larger capacitors on the circuits driving features such as flippers. Many have experimented and replaced their original board’s capacitors with higher value ones and experienced revitalized flippers. Because the higher value capacitors are wider than the originals, this experimental effort requires additional work beyond desoldering and soldering to make everything fit.
    HerculEASE is experimental and not approved by JJP. Just like other DIY efforts being done by Pinsiders. It’s a “use at your own risk” solution.
    HerculEASE isn’t the only option so let’s look at alternatives.
    First option. You can purchase the updated $400 board, remove almost 20 cables, loosen the stands, finesse the large 19-inch wide board around an abundance of cables and remove it from the backbox. Then insert the new $400 board back though the cables, carefully align it on the stands, reattach the 20-some cables to the correct locations and check you haven’t missed a connector that’s hiding behind some wires or the new board itself. This is a valid approach, and you get the 100% official I/O board.
    Second option. You can go the DIY route for probably less than $20 and pull out your soldering iron. While approaches vary, you need to source the correct capacitors, lead extensions, stand and adhesive. Go through all the steps to remove the existing IO board, carefully desolder the existing capacitors without destroying the pads or through holes, solder lead extensions to the new capacitors, build or print capacitor stands, solder the new caps to the IO board and finish up with appropriate adhesive to hold everything in place. Then reinstall the modified IO board and connect the 20-some cables. This is a valid approach for people with the appropriate skills.
    Finally, you can go the HerculEASE approach and leave everything in the backbox and don’t touch the 20-some cables. Instead you replace 2 fuses with the HerculEASE fuses, connect two terminals to a screw, and use a zip tie to hold the HerculEASE capacitors in place. This is great for anyone who wants simplicity as well as the ability to easily back out the modification.
    I’m currently running HerculEASE in my Guns’N’Roses pin as well as my Dialed In! And the results are amazing.
    HerculEASE is in pre-production right now and is being tested by several Pinsiders.
    And I’m getting my Pinside store setup

    I'm curious what the new fuses are for?

    #7 85 days ago

    I’m interested.

    #8 85 days ago

    Video install please

    #9 85 days ago

    Nice, following and will likely order!

    #10 85 days ago

    i'm interested too

    #11 85 days ago
    Quoted from daveyvandy:

    I'm curious what the new fuses are for?

    You can assume he's using the fuse's location in the circuit to intercept the circuit without soldering. So replace a fuse with a assembly that has a fuse + wiring for the capacitor in line.

    #12 85 days ago

    Do you have an approximate cost on this yet?

    #13 85 days ago
    Quoted from usafstars:

    Do you have an approximate cost on this yet?

    No good sales people build excitement to help people get over the hump the $$$$ hump that is.

    #14 85 days ago
    IMG_1853.gifIMG_1853.gif
    #15 85 days ago

    Thanks for making me laugh Chaka…that was a good one!

    #16 85 days ago
    Quoted from usafstars:

    Do you have an approximate cost on this yet?

    I thought I read in another thread it was under $100.

    #17 85 days ago
    Quoted from mtp78:

    Video install please

    Your wish is granted

    Quoted from daveyvandy:

    I'm curious what the new fuses are for?

    flynnibus gave a solid answer. All designs require consideration of constrains, cost, time-to-market, complexity, etc. The fuse approach was optimal at this point.

    Quoted from usafstars:

    Do you have an approximate cost on this yet?

    Well under $100 is what I can say at the moment.

    #18 85 days ago

    Put me down for one GNR

    #19 85 days ago

    Interested

    #21 85 days ago

    Nice!!! Looking forward to this.

    IMG_0209.gifIMG_0209.gif
    #22 85 days ago

    Pics or it didn't happen.

    #23 85 days ago

    Would love to see the install vid. Already have the new caps but if a solderless solution is out there im interested.

    #25 85 days ago

    All sounds good, no pics...price...or eta?

    763468a7-252d-48ba-9a20-14629796200a_text (resized).png763468a7-252d-48ba-9a20-14629796200a_text (resized).png
    #26 85 days ago

    I already have the caps (two sets- e-Bay and Mouser). I’d rather go solderless if possible so I don’t have to remove the board.

    Since the original 3300 caps stay in with this add-on version, does it use 6800 or a lower capacitance?

    Will there be a kit version for people who BYOC?

    #27 84 days ago

    Will it work on Hobbit? The board is not in the backbox.

    #28 84 days ago
    Quoted from marspinball:

    Will it work on Hobbit? The board is not in the backbox.

    The technology / approach should work, it's the mounting that may change. I don't have a Hobbit under test. Look for a DM...

    #29 84 days ago
    Quoted from emsrph:

    I already have the caps (two sets- e-Bay and Mouser). I’d rather go solderless if possible so I don’t have to remove the board.
    Since the original 3300 caps stay in with this add-on version, does it use 6800 or a lower capacitance?

    It would be lower.

    Quoted from emsrph:

    Will there be a kit version for people who BYOC?

    That's not in the plans at the moment.

    #30 84 days ago
    Quoted from jamieflowers:

    All sounds good, no pics...price...or eta?[quoted image]

    I hear you! I believe I posted a target of well under $100 earlier -- losing track of what I wrote in DMs vs. posts. I'm using the pre-production units and investigating the Pinside shops to understand all the costs, such as: Pinside's overhead, strip's overhead, my time to build, time to package, shipping costs, etc. Plus the feedback from the early adaptors will confirm all's well.

    Spitball? I'd like to start selling in around 2 weeks. No promises.

    And pics? Shortly.

    I do appreciate the interest and questions.

    #31 84 days ago

    For that price and easy install, I'd be interested. My main concern would be burning out parts down the road, as a result of doing something that the machine isn't designed to do. Is that a potential pitfall here, or is this ostensibly 100% "safe"?

    #32 84 days ago

    So, after you finish this Herculean effort and make your "One - Million - Dollars!", could you please move on to
    making a ball go up the ramp on Black Knight with your magic power booster?

    #33 84 days ago

    Interested. Already bought the caps but interested in a solderless option.

    #34 84 days ago

    Interested in a kit for my Wonka LE and GNR LE.

    #35 84 days ago
    Quoted from Jaygee77:

    ... My main concern would be burning out parts down the road, as a result of doing something that the machine isn't designed to do. Is that a potential pitfall here, or is this ostensibly 100% "safe"?

    This is mentioned in my first post and it's important to be clear.

    This kit is based on experimental data and observations from the community. It's not supported or endorsed by JJP in any way. Only JJP knows the full end-to-end system, I cannot guarantee any behavior short term or long term. It's up to you to determine your comfort level and whether to install.

    One great aspect of HerculEASE is you can easily remove it.

    All that said, I've got it installed in GNR and DI. I believe many others have done similar with the cap swap approach which is functionally similar.

    #36 84 days ago
    Quoted from altan:

    The technology / approach should work, it's the mounting that may change. I don't have a Hobbit under test. Look for a DM...

    I have a Hobbit if you need a beta tester.

    Here’s a picture of the I/O board. It lays horizontally inside the metal box of the cabinet.

    IMG_1872 (resized).jpegIMG_1872 (resized).jpeg
    #37 84 days ago

    I'd be in for Wonka.

    #38 83 days ago

    interested in a GNR

    #39 83 days ago

    I would also be in for Wonka

    #40 80 days ago

    +1 for GnR

    #41 80 days ago

    I'd be interested in one for my Dialed In.

    #42 80 days ago

    I'm really interested in this. Keep the updates coming!

    #43 80 days ago
    Quoted from clg:

    I'm really interested in this. Keep the updates coming!

    Coming along well... The draft manual has been well received and I've been told installation is quite simple. Got parts to make a batch. Some people have received or are receiving their pre-production versions for early feedback...

    That's a little update

    #45 80 days ago
    Quoted from altan:

    Coming along well... The draft manual has been well received and I've been told installation is quite simple. Got parts to make a batch. Some people have received or are receiving their pre-production versions for early feedback...
    That's a little update

    Thanks I sure hope you ship overseas as I would really like to add this to my DI!

    #46 80 days ago

    Yes for GNR as per DM, above question relates to myself as well, OS shipping ?

    #47 80 days ago

    i might need three or four of these.

    #48 80 days ago
    Quoted from altan:

    Coming along well... The draft manual has been well received and I've been told installation is quite simple. Got parts to make a batch. Some people have received or are receiving their pre-production versions for early feedback...
    That's a little update

    How about a sneak pic?

    #49 80 days ago

    I'm in for one once they are available!

    #50 77 days ago

    Waiting for pics

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