Really like the creature mod. Are you taking orders?
(Topic ID: 79267)
Linked Games
Creature from the Black Lagoon
Bally, 1992
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3 weeks later
Quoted from Jakers:Who has options for apron cards, besides pinballcards.com?
I ordered the snack attack kit a while back. It was on back order when I ordered it but well worth the wait. Awesome kit.
5 months later
Best upgrade for me was a color DMD. I also like the snack pack. I will eventually do the tail light mod and snack bar mod for sure.
4 months later
I recently added some glow plastics to my Godzilla which turned out awesome. Does anyone know if there's glow plastics out there for creature?
3 weeks later
Quoted from ktcoady12:Just joined the club with a beautiful cftbl. Just replaced the window with the green one from planetary. Looks amazing. Now I just got to light these pops
Welcome! Do you have a pic for us?
1 week later
Quoted from Green-Machine:I know the question wasn’t for me but saw these on Australia based sites
https://www.pinballspareparts.com.au/playfield-parts/pop-bumper-parts/b-9414-4.html
Looks like Mr pinball has the teal color as well.
https://shop.mrpinball.com.au/product/wafer-jet-bumper-opaque-teal/
I know what my winter project is going to be. How about the teal jet lanes?
Quoted from pacman11:I went with purple and titan green rubbers and it looks good. Somehow this one was broke in the package too. [quoted image]
Do you really have GOT art blades in your Creature? Lol
3 weeks later
I have a speaker on the right side that is blown and disconnected but the left side still works. Is Road Show supposed to be wired in series? If so shouldn't my left speaker be off? What's the impedance of the back box speakers supposed to be?
Quoted from DumbAss:CAUTION: the following does NOT apply to Creature from the Black Lagoon.
It only applies to DCS machines (which Creature from the Black Lagoon is NOT).
[quoted image]
Do you know what the impedance is?
Quoted from DumbAss:I thought all WPC machines use 4 Ohm speakers. I know the early WPC machines (like Creature from the Black Lagoon) are 4 Ohm. You can measure the resistance across the speaker winding to be sure. To accurately measure, you must isolate the speaker winding from any other circuit.
I believe you're correct. One of my speakers in my Road Show is blown to the point there's no continuity through the coil. 4 ohms makes sense being they are wired in series.
1 month later
Quoted from Pinkitten:Made another pinball pilgrimage yesterday to Ohio to bring this Creature home! Fun game, short ball times and a challenge to rescue the girl! Next up some Swinks mods to install, and an alternate Creature for under the pf.
[quoted image][quoted image]
Won't be long before those short ball times become amazing ball times where everything just clicks. Awesome game...looks really nice.
2 weeks later
Quoted from KJS:I'm still loving my money box over any replacement optio n....including video style
Got a link?
Quoted from Ypaddave:Hi all,
With over 5500 posts in this thread, I've barely scratched the surface when it comes to finding the answer to my question...
so here goes....
Is there an alternative slimmer option for the chase lights on the main ramp? I've noticed in the Elton John release video, it shows a smaller tube-like version of what looks like chase lights.
The originals on Creech are huge and clunky, so would love something a bit more slim-line than the original.
Thanks in advance.
This link was posted not long ago, maybe you could do something with this... https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005549145092.html
1 month later
Quoted from rogerdodger:Hi Guys:
Taking delivery of my CFTBL in a couple of days.
It has a LCD color DMD installed and, in the past (on other titles), I have taken out a LCD color DMD and bought a LED color DMD to replace it, as the LED seems brighter and sharper.
Has anyone experimented with both LED and LCD color displays in their Creech and, if so, what was your preference and why?
Thanks.
Roger
I've tried them all...LCD, ColorDMD and Pin2DMD (albeit the Pin2DMD is in my Road Show). I personally like the ColorDMD or Pin2DMD vs. the LCD because they are more vibrant and true to the original technology of the day. The LCD is less vibrant and more washed out (like a cheap Walmart LCD/LED TV). This comparison is like an LED TV vs. an OLED TV (OLED wins hands down). The Pin2DMD in my Road Show has better colorization than the ColorDMD did when it was installed in RS (I moved it to Creech). I'm very happy with my ColorDMD in my Creech and very happy with the Pin2DMD in my Road Show. My Monster Bash SE has the LCD in dot mode and it's just ok but it's better than the original orange DMD of the day. This is just my personal experience and what I like. Many Pinsiders prefer the LCD and that is not wrong, we like what we like. All said, if you have an opportunity to get a color screen in your machine it will look so much better than stock.
4 weeks later
Quoted from rvermeire:Still having issues with my CFTBL but managed to isolate the problem...
It's a Lamp issue.
Every pair row 2,4,6,8 activates 2 lamps instead of 1.
Eg in PAID (upper inlanes) In test menu single lamps :
P is 1 lamp 11 and is ok,
A (2/L12) is also activating letter D (4/L14),
I is fine 3/L13,
D activates A as well...
Similar situation for all other mentioned rows...
Reseated all J13x connectors.
In lamp test i activated a problem lamp pair and then removed connectors from all other lamp boards one by one hoping one lamp would go out on issue board... didn't. While i did this I also disconnected near coindoor I/F
anyone has more ideas ? Thx
I am no expert here...could there be a bad diode?
1 week later
Quoted from rvermeire:It's that map I can't find. Would like to know which is first spot in the cable after start from connector on PD board... I already have continuity in the connector on the PAID lamp board (RED/BK and RED/Yel) and there is no stop or cut bewteen point A and B
Problem solved, a friend who had the machine for a while had to solder one of the flipper coils cables and dropped some soldering on a lamp board connector and it was exactly making contact between these 2 wires (Rd/BK & RD/YEL) on the plug... scratched it off and all ok now.
My Row 8 Q83 problem is also solved. I replaced the tip but contact with R155 was not ok, did some resoldering and now contact is back and row8 also back in business, thx for everybody's help and ideas.
Good eye!
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