I can't speak to speaker upgrades, but as a general "purist" I am in love with the pinsound board. There are mixes with the original call outs and then the actual artists recordings of the songs. Hands down is amazing. It doesn't take away the charm or anything of the game having the full songs on. Pinsound at least let's you do the original files or your own custom if you want to go back. I just figure if you're going to switch to a pinsound board, you're straying from the keep it stock, so at least try the mixes. But yeah, pinsound works with original sounds, but I wouldn't say it improves the original mixes if that's what you are going for.

…if this post was in regards to bulb for the hologram, I think you need something much brighter. I tried using these flasher bulbs and they didn’t work nearly as well as the halogen bulb. However, the one I tried was cool white, not green.

This was recommended in another thread
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08311NZV7

the issue with that bulb is 3/4 is sent to the sides which is of no value in a black tunnel

Pinkitten let us know what ultimately works best for you regarding the hologram lamp / bulb.

I could use an upgrade if you find something that works well.

I must say I forgot to mention a detail which I forgot about - I actually relocated the bulb / socket closer to the window = another option

Hi Guys:

I just installed this LED lamp (that was suggested elsewhere), to replace the stock halogen hologram bulb.

Wow, a big difference in the brightness of the hologram!

Tough to put numbers on it but if I had to guess, I would say that my hologram is now at least 20% brighter than previous.

Color me happy!

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08311NZV7

Thank you. I appreciate your comments.

So I also moved the bulb up near the mirror, and then even mounted it on the mirror pointed at the hologram. I used a Comet 12v matrix socket in place of the halogen bulb, then attached a 12v ultra bright led to the other end of the 36” wire. The image is blue, but very vivid and bright. Like this…

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thats the trick

The MRS bowl switch I bought from M&M Creations is no longer working. Anyone know if these are still available and if so, where to get them. I will try contacting them directly but so far, I can't find them for sale. Thanks.

That is the way you buy the MRS switches - directly from M&M.

Just ask Sonic

Weird that it would just stop working.

Agreed...his is 3 years old now - but until I can get my hands on it...we will see!

Matt

Can anyone put a value on a nice working Mike D mod for my Creature. Thanks

I would say around $800.

I’ll sell mine for $2500

I will never sell!

A friend s machine with my Pinsignal mod. Love it !

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Still having issues with my CFTBL but managed to isolate the problem...

It's a Lamp issue.
Every pair row 2,4,6,8 activates 2 lamps instead of 1.
Eg in PAID (upper inlanes) In test menu single lamps :
P is 1 lamp 11 and is ok,
A (2/L12) is also activating letter D (4/L14),
I is fine 3/L13,
D activates A as well...

Similar situation for all other mentioned rows...
Reseated all J13x connectors.
In lamp test i activated a problem lamp pair and then removed connectors from all other lamp boards one by one hoping one lamp would go out on issue board... didn't. While i did this I also disconnected near coindoor I/F

anyone has more ideas ? Thx

I am no expert here...could there be a bad diode?

could be of course... but which one and this diode is only affecting the even rows 2,4,6,8.. kind of strange, but far from expert as well

There is not a single cable (color mix Red+x or yellow+x ) connecting them all... (these rows i mean)

For reference:

Lamps

Can you please provide more examples of lamp combos that occur during single lamp test?

bottom line are off, but is I suppose related to Q83 which I noticed yesterday is a bit loose on the board.
But suppose this has no effect on row 2 & 4, will resolder (or replace Q83) later today

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Can you examine J133 to see if J133-2 and J133-6 are somehow connected? Maybe even behind the board? Has this always been happening, or did something recently change?

You should also trace Red-Black and Red-Yellow to make sure there’s not a short somewhere along the line of the wires. This more likely where your issues is based on how you described what’s going on. Check around anything that recently changed, like any mods.

Thx, nothing changed and have creature for more than 2 years now. hereby pics of connectors and board. seems ok for me...? Checked all bulbs and lamp boards, all cables are well soldered and not touching anything... very strange....

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You’re being very thorough, that’s great

Can you please break out the multimeter and see if you have continuity between J133-2 and J133-6, and then also check Red-Black and Red-Yellow. I’d start at the header pins and then the connector wires.

Unplug the connectors J133, J134 and J135, and measure continuity with the tester between pins 2 and 5 of female connector J133, if there is continuity then there is a short circuit in the wiring. If connectors J134 and J135 exist, do the same test.

If the above test is negative then replace U16(LM339) of the Power Driver Board, it is damaged.

R174 is looking a little discoloured compared to the other resistors. I would measure the resistance across that component just to check it is okay. I'm not saying that is your problem, but I'd still check it.

1)

Red/Yel and Red/BK have continuity ! in plug J133

Removed Red/Bk from the plug

Issue remains... 2 lights on : in row 2 and 4 (on same yellow cable when row 4 is activated) eg: letter D also activates letter A in PAID, A doe snot activate letter D (normal red/BK is off). But when the Red/BK was on and in continuity with Red/Yel A also activated D.

removed cables from all 7 lamp boards but no effect (which seems normal, after some thinking, as they all are pass through except last one (cable end) on the board with lamp 41/42/43/44 (1)

Then I removed the red/bk cable and tested one by one the stand alone lamps (there are 3 with a red/bk cable) effect stayed but only row 4 activates row 2. (initially when red/bk still connected row 2 also activated row 4). you still follow ?

2)
and what is even more stranger is Row 8 : no lights at all ! reseated the red/grey cable on the cable. changed cable to other PD connector. The pin has 16.5V

Also replaced the Q83 (initial one gave no beep and measure result outer pins was 0.8)

Maybe this is the cause of everything ? or is it a totally other issue ???

Thx

Does anyone has an image of the route the Red/Black cable is following ? or can that be found somewhere online ?

I suppose it's starting at the PAID lamp board and as lamp board 41/42/43/44 has no cable pass through i suppose it ends there...

The image will just be from the manual and the matrix:

Red-Black

Red-Yellow

I believe you want to find where the continuity is between the above lamp row wires. You'll have to follow it or locate these spots on the underside of the playfield.

The manual will have a map of them if needed.

It's that map I can't find. Would like to know which is first spot in the cable after start from connector on PD board... I already have continuity in the connector on the PAID lamp board (RED/BK and RED/Yel) and there is no stop or cut bewteen point A and B

Problem solved, a friend who had the machine for a while had to solder one of the flipper coils cables and dropped some soldering on a lamp board connector and it was exactly making contact between these 2 wires (Rd/BK & RD/YEL) on the plug... scratched it off and all ok now.

My Row 8 Q83 problem is also solved. I replaced the tip but contact with R155 was not ok, did some resoldering and now contact is back and row8 also back in business, thx for everybody's help and ideas.

Good job finding the connection! Also, great job presenting the issue and following up with the resolution

Good eye!

Hey team - well after numerous requests for another run of the "Chase Echo" - our replacement chase board for creech - we've decided to push ahead with a super limited 50pcs build.

Interestingly, the Chase Echo runs an early version of the "Lolly" firmware, before it was even called that. It was this code that was then ported over to the WiFi enabled ESP chip, given some RGB functionality, and is now driving all our mods. So if some of the patterns looks familiar, you'll know why!

You can sign up for that here:

https://stumblorpinball.com/products/echo

Once they're gone, they're gone!

Awesome mod, it is a big improvement over the OEM board. It has functioned perfectly in my CFTBL for several years.

Gord

This is a great mod for anyone thinking of pulling out their wallet. I wouldn't hesitate to buy. Definitely a great enhancement to CFTBL.

Third another very happy customer.

The mod that started it all!

For me anyway

Thanks for the lovely feedback everyone.

Creature noob here. Is there a time when there is a 3 ball multiball? I have only seen two ball multiballs.

no, only ever 2 ball multiball

ok cool thanks! BTW the machine I just got came with your mod and I just installed it!

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very nice, a few actually - Snackbar, Poster and Whirlpool Switch Cover

enjoy the game - it is a cool one

Oh awesome! Super cool Mods! Thank you!

I'm curious, does this come with the replacement lighting strips stumblor ?

Just sold the shop's Creech and have a spare Pin2DMD that was not installed. So offering to the group a brand new Pin2DMD that is currently activated and set up for CFTBL includes power cable harness. My personal Creech has this same type of display and it's unbelievable.

Also this could be used in any other Pin2DMD supported title if you want.

PM me if interested, I'll let it go for $260 shipped.

Thanks!

No, just the pcb. All info on the website.

Hello
I hope it’s ok to post this here.
I just recently purchased CFTBL and starting to
go through it to clean it up and try to get it all working. This is the first machine I have owned that I needed to do work on to get it running correctly. I’m hoping this is a simple fix
I have an issue with the light board A-15734 for KISS, the middle letter lights don’t light up. I tried switching out the bulbs and sockets but that didn’t help. I removed the board and my buddy brought over his meter and he said that the diodes were not good on those 2 sockets and said I should replace them, so I looked in the manual but I do not see any reference to those parts, the board itself or the diode needed. Can anyone tell me what part # these diodes are ? Should I replace all of them, my buddy said he thinks I should.
Any help would be appreciated

Thanks

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1n4004 it's printed on the diode. The lamp connector sometimes cracks and needs resoldering.