Calgary, AB
Take a bunch of photos and closeups of the playfield underneath for us so we can help identify issues
(Topic ID: 257696)
Linked Games
Addams Family, The
Bally, 1992
Topic Gallery
Hanover, NJ
Will do.
First step, All Lights are back and secure and doing one at a time in sequence. FINALLY done with that.
Second step, all lights supposed to be molexed are re crimped (working first time, amazingly enough) and will be inserted into the molex soon.
Third step, pin on the electric chair lights with my handy tool there...
also, at the end, I'm assuming that is NOT how the outhole (or was it the ball ejector) solenoid should sound and something is wrong.
Quoted from Shredder565:also, at the end, I'm assuming that is NOT how the outhole (or was it the ball ejector) solenoid should sound and something is wrong.
Is there a spring on the plunger?
Quoted from Shredder565:it's there. and yes, lots of soldering cleanup to do.
thankfully, the pin is marked safe from the earthquake
[quoted image][quoted image]
Quoted from Shredder565:it's there. and yes, lots of soldering cleanup to do.
thankfully, the pin is marked safe from the earthquake
[quoted image][quoted image]
Nono, you're missing the spring on the coil's plunger. That spring on the kicker arm is supposed to be there, yes, but it won't make it reset.
You also have a LOT_ of space between the coil and the coil stop. Using the right coil sleeve there, and is it mounted in right?
Quoted from Shredder565:it's there. and yes, lots of soldering cleanup to do.
thankfully, the pin is marked safe from the earthquake
[quoted image][quoted image]
Check the assembly in the manual, you see the correct spring.
Check all of your solenoids for springs, they all should have one somewhere or some kind of a spring, while you are at it.
The coil sleeve looks like its installed backwards.
Coil sleeves that stick out on one end, the sleeve goes thru the bracket, not on the coil stop side.
The coils stop side, the sleeve has to be flush to the coil.
Check your other coils for this mistake.
Also, isn't it preferable to have the coil lugs be at the opposite side from the coil stop (i.e., flip the coil 180 degrees)?
Quoted from emsrph:Also, isn't it preferable to have the coil lugs be at the opposite side from the coil stop (i.e., flip the coil 180 degrees)?
In this case it is done correctly, as per the manual and stock game. If he flipped it 180 degrees then the mech arm would hit the lugs and we don’t want that.
Quoted from Shredder565:it's there. and yes, lots of soldering cleanup to do.
thankfully, the pin is marked safe from the earthquake
[quoted image][quoted image]
That’s the armature and not the plunger. The plunger spring resets the plunger and gets the armature back into ready position. Get that plunger spring on there pronto. You don’t want to be cooking your coil…
Quoted from Coyote:Nono, you're missing the spring on the coil's plunger. That spring on the kicker arm is supposed to be there, yes, but it won't make it reset.
You also have a LOT_ of space between the coil and the coil stop. Using the right coil sleeve there, and is it mounted in right?
His coil sleeve is oriented backwards. Good eye.
I kind of hate to mention this as it means more holes in the PF. 
But the coil and bracket need to be closer to the pivot. When the plunger is fully extended into the coil the link should be closer to straight up and down, not at an angle as in your pic. See attached photo for an idea of positioning and how close.
My pinball OCD... once working I would be compelled to remove everything fill in all the holes and sand it smooth.. knowing that mess is under the playfield would drive me crazy ...
Quoted from pinballinreno:I feel like eating ham now....
[quoted image]
This thread is not for people that suffer from trypophobia.
Quoted from transprtr4u:My pinball OCD... once working I would be compelled to remove everything fill in all the holes and sand it smooth.. knowing that mess is under the playfield would drive me crazy ...
Its nothing that fix-it-all wont solve.
One bag should do it.... 
Quoted from stangbat:I kind of hate to mention this as it means more holes in the PF. But the coil and bracket need to be closer to the pivot. When the plunger is fully extended into the coil the link should be closer to straight up and down, not at an angle as in your pic. See attached photo for an idea of positioning and how close.
[quoted image]
It may not matter as the mech has NO actuator switch wire installed.
It seems purely cosmetic at this point.
Quoted from pinballinreno:It may not matter as the mech has NO actuator switch wire installed.
It seems purely cosmetic at this point.
the wire kept on falling out. but, as mentioned a few pages back, there is a fix for that. I still have to get around to doing that as well.
Quoted from transprtr4u:My pinball OCD... once working I would be compelled to remove everything fill in all the holes and sand it smooth.. knowing that mess is under the playfield would drive me crazy ...
yeah, I'm still going too try and fill in as many holes as possible. it does bug me that things got redone so many times that it looks like swiss cheese. I did do one hole filling as a test that I Have not gotten around to sanding down yet.
out hole ejector aside for the moment as I await some parts for it...
EOS upper switches working fine. re wiring lower switches tommorow to get those squared away... then getting the molexes back into shape.
I guess this board survived it's dark eclipse makeover and is back to normal colors.
All EOS switches back and working. now it's on to getting the molex straightened out. and then Wire organizing.
All Soldering should be done now, as well as all crimping. minus perhaps putting the Outhole back on when the spring comes in.
I vote for best attitude on the forum, myself.
One molex for the thing Lights finished. One Molex for the bookcase lights half finished. as well as the electric chair lights.
I need another .62 female/male combo. marco doesn't seem to have 'em. will have to see about mcmaster carr..
spring should get here next week.
Quoted from Shredder565:I need another .62 female/male combo. marco doesn't seem to have 'em. will have to see about mcmaster carr..
spring should get here next week.
In case it helps: https://wirebot.xyz/collections/0-062-1-58mm
Quoted from Shredder565:the diverter arm also needs re attachment. can't remember how it goes.
You can’t install it until you have the ramp installed. I don’t think you have that on yet? The diverter goes through the ramp then through the playfield.
Quoted from dmacy:You can’t install it until you have the ramp installed. I don’t think you have that on yet? The diverter goes through the ramp then through the playfield.
nope. ramp is not completed yet. I only have the flashers done on those.
Quoted from Shredder565:Electric Chair is done. May have to melt the inside of the chair a bit more with the solder iron so I can stiff this thing in there without breaking it more.
put it hot water will make it more pliable
Quoted from Boat:The rivet! Also most people don’t use the bulb condoms with LEDs if you have the right coloured led (red, yellow etc) you don’t need the covers
Not true
I always put condoms on the LED bulbs.
In fact even with the colored bulbs, I still put the condom.
I just HATE the way the white bulbs look when the game is powered off.
Quoted from pinballinreno:Not true
I always put condoms on the LED bulbs.
In fact even with the colored bulbs, I still put the condom.
I just HATE the way the white bulbs look when the game is powered off.
Comet makes colored domes so the bulbs are colored accordingly even when off
Here: https://www.cometpinball.com/products/colored-lens-indicator-lamps
Very useful
Quoted from Shredder565:just noticed that. perfect rivet on the left, not so much on the right :/.. hmm
I've only noticed white LEDs....[quoted image]
Its not built right.
I dont use those sockets.
The sockets should be lined up with the cut out squares.
The cut out squares line up with the openings in the plastic chair.
Also the black part of the socket cannot pass the edge of the bracket by very much, or not at all.
Or you cant slide the bracket into the chair plastic.
Tomorrow, Ill build a chair and show you how to do it right, I have a couple spares to play with.
Quoted from MiniPinHead:Comet makes colored domes so the bulbs are colored accordingly even when off
Here: https://www.cometpinball.com/products/colored-lens-indicator-lamps
Very useful
I’m a fan of these too.
from the pictures posted a few back, it looked like the metal part of the light was removed and the bulbs put on direct. Orange is how I had them done before I took a second look at the photos. But, done the way above, I couldn't get them to fit in at ALL.
Now zooming in, it does nindeed look like the tabs are there.
Pinside_forum_8098305_3832193 (resized).jpgQuoted from Shredder565:from the pictures posted a few back, it looked like the metal part of the light was removed and the bulbs put on direct. Orange is how I had them done before I took a second look at the photos. But, done the way above, I couldn't get them to fit in at ALL.
Now zooming in, it does nindeed look like the tabs are there.[quoted image]
One of the problems is that the narrow tabbed sockets (that fit in the square cut out) are not being made any more.
The new sockets that are commonly available dont fit into the square cut outs and might not have long enough tabs.
So, its either cut a small notch in the bracket, or trim down the mounting tabs on the sockets, or make new tabs.
All of these ideas have been successfully implemented.
I just modify the square "cut out" and put in bayonet sockets.
By the same token, any suitable sockets can be used once you get them to fit.
The bayonet sockets keep the bulbs from falling out, but they ride a little high and need some plastic carving.
Wedge sockets will absolutely also work, and you will have less plastic carving, or none.
Another method I have seen, is to remove the mounting tabs from the sockets (as you have done) and make a new narrower tab out of tin, copper or brass. Then rivet your new mounting tabs back on.
Quoted from pinballinreno:Its not built right.
I dont use those sockets.
The sockets should be lined up with the cut out squares.
The cut out squares line up with the openings in the plastic chair.
Also the black part of the socket cannot pass the edge of the bracket by very much, or not at all.
Or you cant slide the bracket into the chair plastic.
Tomorrow, Ill build a chair and show you how to do it right, I have a couple spares to play with.
I cant do this today.
I was called in to work across town.
It will have to be when I get back to my shop.
Quoted from Shredder565:tryt 2
[quoted image][quoted image]
is that touching the metal guide or just the angle of the picture ?
Quoted from transprtr4u:is that touching the metal guide or just the angle of the picture ?
nope, just the picture. and if it where, it isn't screwed in hard enough to be permanent yet. I can still move it over left or right.
Quoted from Shredder565:nope, just the picture. and if it where, it isn't screwed in hard enough to be permanent yet. I can still move it over left or right.
Too close to the edge of the playfield. The coil assembly will be sticking out. You need to find a reference photo if you lost the dimples.
Promoted items from Pinside Marketplace and Pinside Shops!
Reply
Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.
Hey there! Welcome to Pinside!
Donate to PinsideGreat to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!
