Quoted from Shredder565:making it look neat and getting things in place is going to be a pain in the butt...
Leaving 1/2" of soldered bare wire hanging out of your connections will lead to despair and tragedy....
(Topic ID: 257696)
Linked Games
Addams Family, The
Bally, 1992
Topic Gallery
Quoted from pinballinreno:Leaving 1/2" of soldered bare wire hanging out of your connections will lead to despair and tragedy....
Go back and re read all of our advice...
Hanover, NJ
Quoted from pinballinreno:Leaving 1/2" of soldered bare wire hanging out of your connections will lead to despair and tragedy....
indeed.
aside from the blob...
433115797_10160979285280211_9147692147964404894_n (resized).jpg
High Wycombe
Redo both. Tidy and use less solder on the left. Use plenty of flux and tin the connections first on the right.
Because you’re not tinning the lugs you are putting too much heat in and burning them before you add enough solder.
In all honesty I don’t know what could have happened to that left one. I’m going to assume you didn’t purposely solder the wire to the screw, but it looks like that’s what you’ve done?
Quoted from Shredder565:redid two of them. EOS switches are supposed to read closed in the test, yes?
On this game the EOS are normally open when the flipper is at rest.
Be sure that the fingers of the EOS switches are separated by 1/8" of clearance when the flipper is at rest.
The tabs on the flipper pawls close the switches about 3/4 of the way (or slightly more) towards the end of the flipper stroke.
Get yourself one of these. You will be adjusting leaf switches all over the playfield for weeks / months to get the game dialled in and this will save you replacement parts and time.
https://www.pinballlife.com/ultimate-leaf-adjuster-tool.html
Quoted from Pooman2084:Get yourself one of these. You will be adjusting leaf switches all over the playfield for weeks / months to get the game dialled in and this will save you replacement parts and time.
https://www.pinballlife.com/ultimate-leaf-adjuster-tool.html
ordered
Got the Eletric chair back up with proper wire colors and diodes. Oddly, still messes up the one light at a time order.
Quoted from Pooman2084:In all honesty I don’t know what could have happened to that left one. I’m going to assume you didn’t purposely solder the wire to the screw, but it looks like that’s what you’ve done?
Looks like its soldered to the bracket too. Why so long of a blob? You dont need inches of wire on the lug covering it the whole way. Just enough to make a connection. If there's wire all the way under that mess...wire needs to be cut shorter too. More (wire, solder, etc) is not better in this instance.
Quoted from pinballinreno:On this game the EOS are normally open when the flipper is at rest.
Be sure that the fingers of the EOS switches are separated by 1/8" of clearance when the flipper is at rest.
The tabs on the flipper pawls close the switches about 3/4 of the way (or slightly more) towards the end of the flipper stroke.
I'll take some more pictures to see how it looks.
before they get riveted onto the chair bracket, this is how my electric chair sockets are wired with the diode, as well as the Thing Vault Green/Red sockets.
I need to wait for more female pins to come in to finish the Vault lights. hoping for good complete light results after that gets done.
432998129_10160980877730211_4586007768747512630_n (resized).jpgQuoted from Shredder565:I'll take some more pictures to see how it looks.
before they get riveted onto the chair bracket, this is how my electric chair sockets are wired with the diode, as well as the Thing Vault Green/Red sockets.
I need to wait for more female pins to come in to finish the Vault lights. hoping for good complete light results after that gets done.[quoted image]
This is how the electric char should be wired:
The banded side of the diodes goes towards the red wires:
The connection is molexed with a 4 circuit .062 connector. The wire size 24 or 22.
20240326_130728 (resized).jpg
The total length od the harness is about 10 to 12"
Quoted from Pooman2084:Get yourself one of these. You will be adjusting leaf switches all over the playfield for weeks / months to get the game dialled in and this will save you replacement parts and time.
https://www.pinballlife.com/ultimate-leaf-adjuster-tool.html
Really??? .... beside the pops, EOS, slam tilt and slings every thing else is micros.
Quoted from hoby1:Really??? .... beside the pops, EOS, slam tilt, targets and slings every thing else is micros.
Quoted from pinballinreno:This is how the electric char should be wired:
[quoted image]
The banded side of the diodes goes towards the red wires:
[quoted image]
The connection is molexed with a 4 circuit .062 connector. The wire size 24 or 22.
[quoted image]
The total length od the harness is about 10 to 12"
Hmm, I left some wire connected to both ends of the diode. I'll change that out tomorrow. my diode is also, of course, facing toward the socket...sigh.
Quoted from Shredder565:Hmm, I left some wire connected to both ends of the diode. I'll change that out tomorrow. my diode is also, of course, facing toward the socket...sigh.
you can leave the wire on the socket and put the diode in the wire if you want.
But the diodes have to have the silver band going towards the harness NOT towards the socket.
This is why the lamps are not working right in test,
As a rule:
The banded side of all diodes should be going towards the backbox ultimately, not towards the socket or device.
Quoted from hoby1:Really??? .... beside the pops, EOS, slam tilt and slings every thing else is micros.
You must be new here!
Dude’s barely played one of these. The flippers will take a lot of fettling and he’ll have to learn how to gap them properly. Same with the pops to get them snappy v shot gunning. It’s way easier with a $9 tool than with a screwdriver. You can easily start bending the switches if you’re not careful.
OK, I've got all my lights hooked up.
I think the problem with the ones not lighting up is because of how I have the Jet Lights wired.
I know they have to be wired a certain way. The upper Left, Right and Center Left need to be joined together with one lug. The Other two with another. And according to the Matrix chart, the Yellow Red needs to be all connected to the same string.
Yet in the photos I've seen, One Yellow Red needs to be connected to the bottom two, and one yellow red needs to be connected to the top three. where do the other three yellow red wires get connected?
Right now, Two are connected to the Top, so Three Yellow Red Wires total, and two are connected to the bottom.
if that made sense.
doing it this way gets my other non working lights lit up, but it messes up the single light sequence.
Quoted from Shredder565:OK, I've got all my lights hooked up.
I think the problem with the ones not lighting up is because of how I have the Jet Lights wired.
I know they have to be wired a certain way. The upper Left, Right and Center Left need to be joined together with one lug. The Other two with another. And according to the Matrix chart, the Yellow Red needs to be all connected to the same string.
Yet in the photos I've seen, One Yellow Red needs to be connected to the bottom two, and one yellow red needs to be connected to the top three. where do the other three yellow red wires get connected?
Right now, Two are connected to the Top, so Three Yellow Red Wires total, and two are connected to the bottom.
if that made sense.
doing it this way gets my other non working lights lit up, but it messes up the single light sequence.
Again, you have likely wired it wrong.
The yellow/red lamp wire is common to ALL 5 pop bumpers. Its daisy chained.
If you have multiple wire ends, you can see that they are all on the same wire with your meter.
However on your pre-built harness some of the yellow/red wires will lead to nowhere until they are hooked up in the daisy-chain.
In this instance one "could" twist all the yellow/red wires together to get a "feel" as to where they are going to end up by using your ohm meter.
This yellow/red wire starts in the backbox on connector J-137 pin number 2.
From there you can set your meter to ohms 20k and "probe" the entire wire to each of its 8 final locations.
The red wires have individual stripe colors PER the pop bumper in question.
The matrix chart shows what color RED wire goes to each pop bumper.
Cousin It, bear kicks and thing flips are also on the yellow/red daisy-chained wire.
Your pre-built yellow/red wire in the harness is likely chopped up into many separate sections to allow you to "hop" from one lamp to another as you attach the lamps.
This would be the same as ALL of the other column wires.
Your schematic also shows the sequence of the daisy-chain.
Wit that in mind, this is how Frankenstein is wired now. I put all the Jet Bumper yellows into one tie. I daisy chained the top three and the bottom two like they where before, just daisy chained from the main wire now.
It still gives me a single light error.
I'm still wondering if there is a mistake in this harness, though, because THIS set of wires seems to go to nowhere. there is no place on the place field for it to fit.
And yes, things are going to get cleaned up as much as possible, but first they have to get working right.
434197218_10160982509815211_430449789663540470_n (resized).jpg434653363_10160982509830211_7754232619620826471_n (resized).jpgQuoted from Shredder565:Wit that in mind, this is how Frankenstein is wired now. I put all the Jet Bumper yellows into one tie. I daisy chained the top three and the bottom two like they where before, just daisy chained from the main wire now.
It still gives me a single light error.
I'm still wondering if there is a mistake in this harness, though, because THIS set of wires seems to go to nowhere. there is no place on the place field for it to fit.
And yes, things are going to get cleaned up as much as possible, but first they have to get working right.
[quoted image][quoted image]
thats not quite how its laid out on the schematic.
tying all the wires together isnt a chain
Quoted from pinballinreno:thats not quite how its laid out on the schematic.
tying all the wires together isnt a chain
If we are talking about this, To me, it looks like yellow goes to all of them.
But, my yellow color was split up to five different sections. One for the top, one for the top left, one for the middle left, one for the middle and one for the bottom.
in order to get them all connected, I'd have to do that and daisy chain it the way it was shown on a picture posted a year or so ago. with one yellow wire going to the top three, and one yellow wire going to the bottom two in a daisy chain. And one Black wire from the LED Lights from the top t hree tied together to match that one wire coming off the main line.
that is how I recall that ref image doing....
CpWz_029 (resized).jpgQuoted from Shredder565:If we are talking about this, To me, it looks like yellow goes to all of them.
But, my yellow color was split up to five different sections. One for the top, one for the top left, one for the middle left, one for the middle and one for the bottom.
in order to get them all connected, I'd have to do that and daisy chain it the way it was shown on a picture posted a year or so ago. with one yellow wire going to the top three, and one yellow wire going to the bottom two in a daisy chain. And one Black wire from the LED Lights from the top t hree tied together to match that one wire coming off the main line.
that is how I recall that ref image doing....[quoted image]
You have the detailed schematic, why arent you using it? Viewed this way its a fairly simple circuit for the column wire.
Make it EXACTLY this way so you can go back and refer to it later if needed,
Screenshot 2024-03-27 150030 (resized).jpg
I imagine that you have 5 cut wires i your harness.
Find them, lay them out, solder the connections,
the R and C symbols are "row" and "column"
R1, C1 = row 1, column 1 etc.
Use your meter (set to ohms), grab the ends of the wires in pairs, check for continuity, find out which wire is connected to which (or themselves).
Label them so you understand them, install them one at a time starting at the left on the schematic.
The Rows are set up that way, It's the columns that are going to be hard to keep track of being cut in so many different places.
And that is different from the other picture someone posted two or three years ago that I followed the first time, from I think a Hep Build.
With a Red Wire going too one of each 2-5. And a lug from R3/1/2 being joined together and connected toone yellow, and a lug from R4/R5 being joined together and connected to another yellow wire.
But, this will be a job for tomorrow.
Quoted from Shredder565:Not the picture I was looking for, but how it was setup before that I duplicated first..[quoted image]
Yeah, dont do it that way.
Quoted from Shredder565:It's the columns that are going to be hard to keep track of being cut in so many different places.
Isolate the 6 or 7 wires from the harness if that helps (cut the ties, pull out the wires).
But really you can use your meter to figure it all out in a few minutes.
Quoted from pinballinreno:You have the detailed schematic
I recognize that image 
. Hopefully you have all of them. If not, I can provide them.
Quoted from Walamab:I recognize that image . Hopefully you have all of them. If not, I can provide them.
I've got most of 'em 
.
Spent the last 30 minutes wiring up the jet bumpers the way above. the lights go in sequence now. But, the electric chair lights, two on the Mansion board, one millions on that board, and Vault Green(?) don't seem to be working.
I STILL think these extra wires are the culprit. they don't go in any spot on the board...and no spot that isn't a PCB section has two lights attached to it.
434653363_10160982509830211_7754232619620826471_n (resized).jpgQuoted from Shredder565:I've got most of 'em .
Spent the last 30 minutes wiring up the jet bumpers the way above. the lights go in sequence now. But, the electric chair lights, two on the Mansion board, one millions on that board, and Vault Green(?) don't seem to be working.
I STILL think these extra wires are the culprit. they don't go in any spot on the board...and no spot that isn't a PCB section has two lights attached to it.[quoted image]
How is the molex connector wired to the "PC board for cousin it, thing flips, bear kicks"?
I cant see it fully.
It appears to be wrong, but could just be obscured.
The schematic shows the column wire yellow/red going to the board. It should have 4 wires going to it, 3 for the rows and one for the column.
Its not clear in the photo, but the yellow/red wire should end there, and be a single wire, but be "daisy chained" from pop bumper R4, C2 according to the schematic.
lamp 6_7_8 board (resized).jpg
However, the yellow/red column wire could be patched in from anywhere in the column and possibly end at the pop bumper R4, C2.
Williams wiring "in production" is more art then science...
There are no extra wires in the column.
There are EXACTLY 8 lamps and the yellow/red wire is COMMON to the 8 lamps.
It goes NOWHERE else.
You only have 1 connection in the backbox, and 8 lamps, thats it, nothing else.
All of the columns work the same way.
One of the 'Extra' red wires goes to the board (red Blue?) and the other goes farther down the line to the top.
and one of the Yellow Reds goes to light 18, the other goes to Super Jackpot. the end went nowhere. too get the lights to work, I have to hook it up too the jet bumper daisy chain.
so, seems like an odd mistake here that needs fixing.
434195994_10160983807155211_4472452459494613478_n (resized).jpg434737668_10160983807165211_8763566695565297867_n (resized).jpgQuoted from Shredder565:One of the 'Extra' red wires goes to the board (red Blue?) and the other goes farther down the line to the top.
and one of the Yellow Reds goes to light 18, the other goes to Super Jackpot. the end went nowhere. too get the lights to work, I have to hook it up too the jet bumper daisy chain.
so, seems like an odd mistake here that needs fixing.
[quoted image][quoted image]
The column wires go to the 8 lamps in each of the 8 columns.
Nowhere else, its finite
Yellow/red ONLY goes to the 8 lamps in that column.
ANYTHING else is WRONG.
Again, this wil be the same for ALL columns, with different wire colors for each column of course.
Quoted from Shredder565:One of the 'Extra' red wires goes to the board (red Blue?) and the other goes farther down the line to the top.
and one of the Yellow Reds goes to light 18, the other goes to Super Jackpot. the end went nowhere. too get the lights to work, I have to hook it up too the jet bumper daisy chain.
so, seems like an odd mistake here that needs fixing.
[quoted image][quoted image]
When you asked where to start?
I usually check the columns first as they are super easy.
One "column" wire that goes to each of the 8 lamps in the column in a daisy chain with no diodes involved.
Get the columns done, and then work on the row daisy chains with diodes involved, all diodes pointing upstream towards the backbox.
Quoted from pinballinreno:When you asked where to start?
I usually check the columns first as they are super easy.
One "column" wire that goes to each of the 8 lamps in the column in a daisy chain with no diodes involved.
Get the columns done, and then work on the row daisy chains with diodes involved, all diodes pointing upstream towards the backbox.
I was double backing wires and noticed I WAS missing a wire connection.
Grave A does not have a light next too it. I thought that was originally covered by the pcb, but no. wrong on that one.
getting my wire color guy in here so we can try and track down what the problem is, because there seems to be a problem somewhere.
Quoted from Shredder565:because there seems to be a problem somewhere.
Or many problems.
Use the concepts I outlined for you above.
Alright.
The Red is Red violet that seems to be my missing Grave V wire, and Grave A was in the wrong spot. So, now it's Grave V and everything in Row 7 except Thing Yellow and Thing X that is not working.
I'm thinking maybe a cut wire somewhere up the line..... will have to double trace it back.
Quoted from Pooman2084:Get the multimeter out and the manual and trace the connections from the board!
It would be fun to count how many times in this thread this has been recommended but not followed.
Quoted from A_Bord:It would be fun to count how many times in this thread this has been recommended but not followed.
It’s like a drinking game.
Quoted from Shredder565:and how many times I've gone out of the way to show that it was. but, lets ignore that....smh.
Trust me….. we are all shaking our heads.
Quoted from Shredder565:and how many times I've gone out of the way to show that it was. but, lets ignore that....smh.
Its ok to make mistakes, I make then all the time.
Its what happens next that elevates us.
We all learn at our own pace, even the stubborn people (like me sometimes).
Quoted from wallybgood:Hey 565
Need to figure out where these end up.
Wally[quoted image]
Hey 565
Don't know if you ever decided what to do with these V wires, but I have a hunch.
They may be associated with the DC power to the A-15139 magnet board.
Need to check with the harness builder or by continuity check that one wire goes to A-15416 Extra Flipper Supply Board J903 pin 2 and the other to J1 pins 1,2 on the magnet board.
If this is the case, a 5a inline fuse would have been originally installed. Since you are using an improved board which has three individual fuses, the 5a fuse is not needed. So the two V wires would simply need to be connected together. (and insulated)
Wally
Pinside_forum_8077856_0 (resized).jpgQuoted from wallybgood:Hey 565
Don't know if you ever decided what to do with these V wires, but I have a hunch.
They may be associated with the DC power to the A-15139 magnet board.
Need to check with the harness builder or by continuity check that one wire goes to A-15416 Extra Flipper Supply Board J903 pin 2 and the other to J1 pins 1,2 on the magnet board.
If this is the case, a 5a inline fuse would have been originally installed. Since you are using an improved board which has three individual fuses, the 5a fuse is not needed. So the two V wires would simply need to be connected together. (and insulated)
Wally[quoted image]
Good call on this!
I dont think he knows about or was putting in the 5a fuse holder.
edited (resized).jpgQuoted from pinballinreno:Good call on this!
I dont think he knows about or was putting in the 5a fuse holder.[quoted image]
speaking of things that he asked about 5 times that got ignored ....it goes both ways..
now that we know what those wires are for, is this a necessary part to have installed?
Quoted from Shredder565:speaking of things that he asked about 5 times that got ignored ....it goes both ways..
now that we know what those wires are for, is this a necessary part to have installed?
The original magnet board didnt have any fuses.
There was a 5a slo-blo fuse under the playfield for magnet circuit protection that RARELY blew out, the fuse was too large.
When a Tip36 transistor would fail on the magnet board, the magnet would get firery HOT and burn the playfield.
Very many playfields were ruined from "magnet burn".
With the improved, "fused" magnet board and its faster acting 2.5a fuses, you have MUCH better protection.
This, on top of the new "thermally" protected magnets, should eliminate "magnet burn" from now on.
So, those 2 wires should be twisted together, soldered and heatshrinked to "bypass", or delete the fuse holder.
Quoted from Shredder565:speaking of things that he asked about 5 times that got ignored ....it goes both ways..
now that we know what those wires are for, is this a necessary part to have installed?
Quoted from wallybgood:Hey 565
Don't know if you ever decided what to do with these V wires, but I have a hunch.
They may be associated with the DC power to the A-15139 magnet board.
Need to check with the harness builder or by continuity check that one wire goes to A-15416 Extra Flipper Supply Board J903 pin 2 and the other to J1 pins 1,2 on the magnet board.
If this is the case, a 5a inline fuse would have been originally installed. Since you are using an improved board which has three individual fuses, the 5a fuse is not needed. So the two V wires would simply need to be connected together. (and insulated)
Wally[quoted image]
Quoted from pinballinreno:The original magnet board didnt have any fuses.
There was a 5a slo-blo fuse under the playfield for magnet circuit protection that RARELY blew out, the fuse was too large.
When a Tip36 transistor would fail on the magnet board, the magnet would get firery HOT and burn the playfield.
Very many playfields were ruined from "magnet burn".
With the improved, "fusesd" magnet board and its faster acting 2.5a fuses, you have MUCH better protection.
This on top of the new "thermally" protected magnets, should eliminate "magnet burn" from now on.
So, those 2 wire should be twisted together, soldered and heatshrinked to "bypass" or delete the fuse holder.
gotcha. done today.
Light problem fixed. I'm not sure WHAT the problem was. But, I noticed that when I finangled light #17 a bit, light #18 turned on. So, replaced that socket with a new one, that fixed 18. I noticed that one of the chair lights looked burnt. I replaced that, this got the others working. So, all lights back on.
will secure and finish up and hope that ends that little adventure.
Promoted items from Pinside Marketplace and Pinside Shops!
Reply
Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.
Hey there! Welcome to Pinside!
Donate to PinsideGreat to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!
