I guess I'm in on the LE. Wanted an LE, was told sold out so ordered a premium. Just got invoiced for an LE. Pinballs.com usually only invoices if delivery is very near, at least in the past
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I guess I'm in on the LE. Wanted an LE, was told sold out so ordered a premium. Just got invoiced for an LE. Pinballs.com usually only invoices if delivery is very near, at least in the past
I'd also recommend Pinnovator's sub board. You can add a Pinnovator's splitter and run up to 4 games on one sub. Heck, a sub is a must for any pin but especially music themed ones.
I have a Yamaha YST SW 305 powered sub and the cheaper Polk. Honestly the Yamaha is noticably better but the Polk is certainly good enough.
The splitter is #330.018.000 and called PINsmx, about $65.
Pinsub Stern Spike subwoofer kit is #330.041.000 and about $35.
It might be your #4 ball in the ball trough is not registering. Remove all balls then reinsert one at a time. Might be #4 switch alignment or wiring
I bought mine from pinballs.com. They told me about about 4 weeks 2 days ago for my LE. $9500 delivered to NC. I also got an EHOH from them as it was the only place that really had one in stock. This was late September or early October.
Anybody toy with adding a pair of stereo speakers, maybe on stands to the left and right of their pin? Is it worth the effort?
I would suggest a powered subwoofer. Use Pinnovator's and you can add 3 more pins. This makes a lot of difference, the best mod you can do imo.
Yes, as far as the sub is concerned. I'm running AS and GB on one sub and no problem. Of course whenever you run 2 or 3 pins at one time your house starts sounding like an arcade.
You can test the sound by running alligator clips to the leads of the large speakers in the pin cab bases and join to a single sub. Run one pin on sub left plug in and one on right sub plug in.
'Just a shout out to others that, like me, who have graciously insisted (apparently) that everyone else get their games before mine is delivered.
The spinner might be an easy fix but it sounds like it's easy to bend it out of whack again . Maybe, like someone suggested, it's hitting too high. Most of us have other machines with spinners and have never had a problem. I expect Stern is working on it.
Just curious, is it possible to raise the spinner arms a bit, maybe a few washers under the mounts? (Forgive me as I haven't received mine and 'have no idea how it's mounted)
Just got notice! Game has shipped.
I can deal with a spinner problem, anybody remember the old cracked cabinet days? Ahh, yes...memories.
Quoted from PsychoPsonic:#390 has landed, same spinner issue. Have bent the brackets pretty far, still can't get the spinner to sit straight. What am I doing wrong?
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Hard to say but if you bend the supports too far the spinner arms might bind in the hole.
Looks like the Stern picture is upside down or at least the sticker is. The real Hindenburg sank by tail first
Quoted from EMDude:Curious, those who are having to deal with FedEx and other shippers delays/headaches do your distributors not deliver? Too far from a distributor? My distro brought mine the minute it arrived at his warehouse.
Mine is in Chesapeake, Va now but won't be here in Corolla
until Tuesday- it's about 2 hours away. Larger truckers usually contract small firms to away areas like Corolla and that might not be but once a week. UPS and FedEx tend to do the whole route and are faster but my game was shipped by a lesser known shipper.
Quoted from Guinnesstime:I'll be down there in August for my annual family vacation. I guess I'll get to play this at Flippers (It better be open this year!)
Flippers is reopen for pinball. You don't pay by the game anymore but get a wrist thingy. $5 for one hour, $9 for two
Hours, $15 all day.
Of course I'm retired here so any vacationer's are welcome to stop by.
It's not so much people are bending it once and it's fixed, it's that some had to do this 3 times-that's what really got my attention.
My premium seems to be working fine out of the box. No spinner issues, glass is reasonably snug. I did change game adj. #47 voice to plus 5-Why didn't they get the AFM
"Blast those martians" lady???
Anyway, 'love the rocking music but I could use some strategy tips. When do you change songs and when is it avisable to just play the current song using multiple balls?
I hear "shoot the eject" for the electric thingy, what is the eject?
I love the lights-I think they will be a standard feature on future machines. And of course the music is great! I'm mixed on the EM. I'd like to see it better integrated and maybe award more points, though it just might be me. All in all, a great machine for Zep fans
Quoted from drummermike:Do you open or save file with new code. I did both ways and can not open the file.
I'm no computer expert, but I always hit "save" and let the computer do it's thing-took about 30 minutes for me. Then you have a zipped file which you must "extract". You can hit
"Extract all" or do the 3 files one at a time if you can't find the "all". Then you transfer to a formatted drive then to pinball.
One constant with all my Stern's I discovered is when you have to go to the bathroom really, really, bad you are awarded with a lengthy multiball- how do they do that?
I just got my highest score but 'not going to post it because there's not a 65 and older category.(and I suck)
This game is really a keeper, the more I play it the better I like it. The shots and music are satisfying, even more so now that I've progressed to having a general idea of what to do.
New owner's should try to set voice attenuation to +2 to 5 and music to - 10 to 20, that seems to be the sweet spot.
This has been said before but if you can't consistently back hand to the right ramp check your right flipper and see if it is aligned with the little alignment hole. Mine was just slightly too low from the factory. 'Adjusted and this pin ROCKS!..even more.
I want to add though Pinstadiums are expensive you know what they are in advance so you can take it or leave it. Also they support Pinsider and if you have a problem they take care of it-they are a good reputable dealer and an asset to Pinsider. I agree they shouldn't advertise for LZ because the factory light show is so great - kind of like putting hub caps on your mag wheels.
I just ordered the double guitar / amp mod...and I'm not one to mod anything. The truth is this is probably my favorite pin so why not? I wasn't all that crazy about it at first but after a couple hundred plays you can see where it really shines. First thing, you have to crank up the volume - you can't really do that in an arcade environment. Then you have to learn what to shoot for and how really sweet the shots are. Adjust the right flipper so it makes the right ramp- mine was not set this way from factory and it's such a nice, satisfying shot. Anybody from the 1950-60's will love this machine.
I bent my gate wire in machine with a 45 degree at the very end. This seems to keep the gate in place.
I had the usual EM spinner problem but it seems to be solved now. There's no need to reverse the spinner as it seems to be symmetrical, that is unless the arms are bent, then you will have sucess installing it backwards. I just bent the arms symmetrical again paying close attention to the little ends sticking through the support arms. They should not show a wobble but be straight. The real fix might be a new spinner with stronger arms.
Can someone tell me what the playfield Zoso, feather,etc lights mean? Just below tour lights.
Thanks!
Quoted from Zosotatt:My woes with the 1-way wire gate at the top of the ball launching lane continue. Yesterday it came flying out right onto the playfield. I stopped playing immediately and removed it. Widening it a little by bending it seems to be only a temporary fix. Any ideas on a permanent fix? I am thinking of putting a little blob of liquid weld on one end to stop it from coming back through the hole. Alternatively, I could just play the game without the gate ...if a ball goes down there it gets launched back out anyway? Thoughts?
Reinstall then bend the very end that sticks through the hole. I haven't had any more problems
Anybody adding Pinwoofer, you need to place Pyle adapter "fat side in" but the adapter looks symmetrical (it's not) . You want the bigger gap towards the outside of the cabinet as shown. Otherwise you can't close the speaker enclosure properly. Proper and improper installation shown. Wider gap to the outside.
PXL_20210325_124344589 (resized).jpgPXL_20210325_124505870 (resized).jpgQuoted from Chisox:Pinwoofer guys-does it matter what color you order for the mounting rings? I thought white would look cool on the premium but Looking at pics of the game it appears that it would be hidden unless you have some speaker lights going. No game so I’m just by pics until it gets here.
I don't see where it matters at all. I picked white but you can't see it with the cabinet closed. You CAN just faintly see new speakers.
Everyone should at least get a subwoofer or Pinwoofers for this pin, it makes a huge difference.
Quoted from beelzeboob:I'm not sure why you guys would use the mounting rings at all. In talking to Dan, he was the one that told me the speakers drop right in. So that's what I did--I plopped them right on top of the blue Stern ring. Done.
You can do that with the LE but 'not sure about the premium.
One thing I DID do with Pinwoofer install is retain the quick disconnects from the old speakers and resolder piggyback to the new. If there's ever an amp problem you can easily switch back to old system speaker driver.
Quoted from Vino:Played a nice round on a pro yesterday and the updates and tour modes (spinner especially)- very enjoyable. A few questions for premium/LE owners as I haven’t played one:
-Did Stern fix the timing of the EM mech raising/lowering in code? I like the uninterrupted flow on pro.
-How often do you nail the third flipper ramp shot on premium/le? I hit the ramp once on the pro by pure luck. Not easy.
Thanks for input guys
I didn't care for the EM at first-it sort of interrupted game play. But with the latest update I now look forward to EM-especially EM frenzy! It's a real point getter and the Boom Boom sounds with a powered sub or Pinwoofer are neat.
As far as the third flipper, it comes in handy sometimes and I might make the ramp 2 out of 10 shots or so. I'm an average player.
Quoted from Zosotatt:The wire gate at the top of the ball launch really messed me up today... I had a good game going and the gate decided to dislodge and block any balls from exciting the shooter lane ... of course this happened just as multiball started up and I had 4 pinballs stuck in the lane, had to power-off mid-game. Pulling back the glass and realigning this gate is getting so old --- I ended up removing wire gate. I think the gate does have an impact on the balls entering the field as now that I have the gate removed, I see balls going SDTM directly from ball launch (see ball path on photo) -- is there an adjustment I can make to stop this from happening.
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I 've had great luck with sticking it back the bending the very end about 45 degrees. No more problems.
On a different matter, I decreased my ball launch power to pretty much make the skill shot every time- 'hits the "D" in LED. If you are a disgusting cheater like me you might want to try it. Only problem is if you get 2 balls in the launch lane at one time there's not enough power to auto launch
Quoted from romulusx:This is bullshit all these guys here were all over Pinside trying to degrade GnR and JJP because their the true fan boys.I don’t give a shit about attention!All these CS’s had to say was GnR was a fancy box of lights and the awards speak to the fact that it’s a great game.If you read the original post I was wishing you guys luck next year and then like children you went apeshit!
Well "their" you go again!
I got my Pinwoofer up a running and want to give my opinion over the powered sub I've had since LZ was new. Dan at Pinwoofer was very nice to correct a problem I had, no fault of his own, and I appreciate his effort-a nice guy to work with that cares about his business.
A powered sub alone is really a necessity for this pin. I'd say it gets you about 65 percent there. It will cost about $130 or so with a Pinnovator's splitter and an inexpensive sub. Well worth the investment.
If you want the extra 35 percent, and it's worth it to me, go with the Pinwoofer. It adds a very crisp sound...better sound in my opinion. As the guys at SDTM said, it's much like having an equalizer to customize the sound as you like.
I'm pleased with the Pinwoofer.
The EM remains up or rises after the end of the game.
Check EM is level with playfield for air balls, I almost never
get air balls with LZ.
I'm not sure about the plastic but normally the 2 hex adaptors will need to be removed from the plastic, attach hex adaptors to playfield using long screws coming up thru playfield, tighten, then add plastic, attach to top of hex adaptors with 2 short screws.
https://www.amazon.com/MCIGICM-Speaker-Cable-Connector-Adapter/dp/B07X44HBLW/ref=mp_s_a_1_10
That's a 10 pack but only $5.99
Quoted from Psw757:Not working for whatever reason even when in diagnostics all led test.
Make sure this plug is snug, center of photo. Pull out white kill switch door actuates to test. Plug is on left cabinet side near coin box.
PXL_20210412_162849064 (resized).jpgGawd! My LZ really, really, rocks! I started with a powered sub- everyone should at least do this. Then I added Pinwoofer which is great but I missed the earth shaking sub (Pinwoofer has no external powered sub) so I soldered the connection to the Pinwoofer system - I've found musical Nirvana! Especially EM frenzy.
Quoted from J85M:Anyone with a LZ and a Munsters?
Which 180 ramp is more fun to shoot/feels more satisfying?
Considering grabbing a pro and my boy loves those 180 ramp shots.
The 180 ramps are pretty similar in these 2 games. But LZ blows away Munsters in that there are many more satisfying shots besides just the 180. The center ramp, left ramp, left orbit, left eject are all satisfying.
Quoted from Pinball-NJA:Sorry folks, I’ve been digging for a answer,
But is Stern coming up with a new spinner braket? Or a solution to the problem.
Love the pin but end up backing off once I start to see the spinner seize again.
I had a first build and had problems at first. I haven't had a single problem since the update. Stern should have known about this pre release but it seems the update fixed mine...I hope for good.
Quoted from Hawks:Anyone have issues with the ball getting hung up on the rear edge of the black plastic when the EM is raised
Mine looks to sit a little too high above the playfield when the EM is raised, is there an adjustment that can be done?
I have to shake the machine vigorously to jar the ball loose from this position
Otherwise everything else is great
Mine gets hung up on the 2 back support rods occasionally. Not sure what you can do about it- good time to grab another beer.
Quoted from LeMansFan:Ha ha, funny that the previous post mentioned needing an external sub, and that's exactly what I came on here to complain about.
I bought one of those Klipsch 12" subs that were on sale at Costco not too long ago and just finished hooking it up. Was hoping that it would bring out the bass in the music rather than just the sound effects. Is there any suggestion or way to remedy this? I don't need all the booms from the effects, just would prefer to have fuller sound from the actual tunes.
I searched through the menus to turn down the effects and turn up the music and couldn't find where that is located, anyone care to point me in the right direction?
Try "music attenuation" at about -10. It's in the menu
Quoted from LeMansFan:Thank you both!
I forgot- you might want to set "speech attenuation" to 5 or so
My LZ was absolutely horrible out of the box audio wise. I wonder why Stern set it this way. But after a minus 10 on music attenuation and plus 5 on speech is was much better, as someone else has suggested. After that adding a powered sub is a must.
Vibration I guess. They don't seem to want to turn today. Yesterday I'd get about 1/4 turn everytime the ball trough solenoid activated.
I'll pass this along if you're having trouble with the EM spinner. I DID have trouble but this seemed to fix it:
First make sure your game is set at proper slope and level right to left
Remove the spinner and adjust #1 by setting on a flat surface. Flip it over. Distance from the arms should be equal to the surface no matter which side is up.
#2 should be slightly greater than 90 degrees or at the same angle as the spinner holder.
Reattach spinner and adjust #3 so when you spin it it doesn't wobble like you're making an oval snow angel. You can use needle nose pliers. This is the most critical adjustment to have the spinner rest in the upright position and not waste any rotational energy.
Lube and you're done.
Quoted from JD4444:I have adjusted music attenuation to -10 and adjusted the eq ... is there any way to turn down the game sounds ? Sorry if this has already been addressed... I went through the menus but couldn't find it anywhere.
If you mean the call outs, set speech attenuation to +4 or 5. It's the next adjustment after "music attinuatuon"
Quoted from JD4444:Not the speech I adjusted that ... unless that includes the scoring sounds ie noises when hitting targets ramps etc.... . I adjusted the speech attenuation
Try setting music to -60 then turn down master volume a little
Quoted from JD4444:Does the speech attenuation also include the game sounds. ... ramps target sounds etc? Or is there another control for those sounds?
I really don't know but I haven't seen a separate control for ramps, etc. You might however be able to cut other stuff up (minus attenuation) to make it sound more the way you want .
Personally, I like it loud so I have Pinwoofer and external sub installed. My house shakes during EM frenzy
If you just want higher highs and lower lows, and the ability to adjust the sound like an equalizer amp- just better, crisper sound, consider Pinwoofer. It includes better speakers but a better soundboard as well. It's rather pricey but you get a lot and the ability to fine tune your pin.
Quoted from beelzeboob:I'm a SW fan and didn't order a Mandolorian. And I just want to pop in here to say that while people in that thread seem to be comparing the "packed" Mandolorian playfield to the "empty" LZ playfield, I still think this is a great game and a shit ton of fun (when my EM mech actually reads the captured ball, that is...). Glad I got one, and have no regrets about not getting Mandolorian.
I think one thing people forget is how important a free area
is. I had a pin jam packed with shit but it just sat there unplayed so I sold it (though it was rated highly) Are 3 mini playfield really better that 2?. Are 5 multiballs better than 3?. I find pins from this manufacturer just jam packed yet I find myself playing Stern or Chicago gaming.
My spinner bent again but just a little. It was still hanging correctly. But the EM was raising and lowering at will. The problem shows up in a switch test, a too sensitive spinner. I fixed it but Stern really needs to send all owners a beefed up spinner and maybe a drill bit to enlarge the spinner arm holders.
Well, I have to amnend this post. EM has gone back to it's raising and lowering again. 'Contacting Stern.
I put it in switch test and nothing showed but when I shoved machine EM opto activated. So I stuck my finger thru spinner so white side up and pulled towards ceiling to bend arms a bit more. This seemed to fix for now.
Try playing 2 player games. The spinner should pretty much always go down between the 2 players. If it seems to stay up too much or go up and down a lot put pin in switch test mode and check for a too sensitive EM spinner opto. Manually spin the EM spinner to make sure it is not activating at rest. Also bump the game while in test mode to see if that sets it off. If it's too sensitive remove the spinner and bend the arms slightly so at rest the spinner is a bit closer to the flippers- we're only talking a few mm.
Quoted from VALIS666:So I figured this out, or half solved it, anyway. What's happening is on some ball ejects into the shooter lane, it's triggering a switch/opto somewhere for 1000 points, and ending the skill shot right there since the game thinks the ball hit somewhere else. Finding that switch/opto now could be tricky. Could be anywhere, really, but I guess it's narrowed down by it being 1000 points. Anyone run into this or have an idea of what gives 1000 off the plunge? Probably a lot of things. Though none of the slings or pops fire when this happens, so I guess I can eliminate those.
It's weird too, my Alice Cooper used to be in that same spot, and was having a very similar problem where ball ejects into the shooter lane were causing the Crypt/Danesi lock to trigger. So quite obviously that spot in my basement is haunted. Or slightly more rational, both games are very bassy and also trigger the shaker motor when ejecting a ball, so that's just enough vibration to set off a slightly misaligned opto or overly sensitive switch somewhere.
While I had the glass off I did all the other recommended fixes -- raising the airball protector behind the back ramp (seems good), pushing the tines down on the wireform crossover ramp so that upper flipper shot hits more often (took a lot of fine tuning, but seems dialed in now), and both bending out the EM spinner brackets and bending in the spinner wire itself (wicked rips now).
Put it in switch test mode, pull out white safety lock out button on access door, then shake machine.
I used 2 pair of pliers and bent the gate end in place. One pair of needle nose to bend the very end 45 degrees and one pair to counteract gravity, to push the end through the hole so you can grab it. I haven't had any more problems with the gate.
Oops? I just saw someone else posted this, sorry!
Quoted from VALIS666:Thanks, great suggestion, I always forget about switch test + shake machine/tap on the playfield even though its served me well multiple times in the past, but unfortunately I can't get anything to trigger when shaking or banging. And yep, I had the coin door safety button pulled out. I thought in my last couple games I noticed the Icarus insert light up (and the skill shot canceled) once the ball ejected. But it still only happens ball 2 and 3, never ball 1 that I remember. Also noticed the shaker doesn't activate on every shooter lane eject. One step forward, two steps back. Gonna enlist my wife tonight to be a second pair of eyes to see what lights on the playfield that shouldn't when balls eject. (edit: or now that I think of it, film the playfield when balls eject and watch it on slo-mo)
A shaker presents special problems that a nudge might not reveal. Try putting in test mode then take the soft handle end of a hammer and tap around the playfield. Especially near the pop bumpers
This is a really great game, make no mistake about that. But sooner or later all of us will experience the bent spinner. Not that the spinner is of bad design but it can't handle the playfield severe bashing position. Stern needs to beef up the spinner and send us a replacement.
Quoted from JD4444:Is there a conversion kit to put in 5.25 inch speakers in the back box?
I looked at pinwoofer set but the pyle speakers are not what I am looking for. I think I can get mich better sound with different speakers.
Also can you just swap out the speakers and sub or do you need an amplifier?
Your best bang for the buck will be a powered sub - there's enough factory amplifier to drive a sub but I think a powered sub sounds noticibly better. A change in back box speakers is nice but it doesn't blow you away in sound difference.
Just a big thanks! To those that gave a heads up about the ZEP drop target rubber. I checked mine and it's 1/2 worn thru after about 2 months HUO. I ordered 4 more 1 3/4 in from Titan. You CAN get more use if, while you have the glass off, rotate the rubber so the wear spot is towards the pop. But thanks again, as it saves me down time waiting on rubber rings.
I've found the EM opto seems to read from the top of the spinner. It will work better if you bend the arms so at rest it is perpendicular to the playfield, not hanging like a pendulum. The more the top of the spinner leans into the EM the touchier it will be and you'll notice the EM seem to raise and lower at random.
Quoted from damionrowe:Still having no luck with my left eject. When I start the game the left eject solenoid fires repeatedly for a short time then stops. The left eject switch is not registering in switch test. When I shoot the left eject the ball stays until a ball search shoots it out. I am getting an Operator alert saying Left Eject Device Malfunction.
I checked the microswitch and it physically looks ok and I can hear the click when pressing the actuator arm down. Not sure if the switch just needs to be replaced or if there might be a simpler fix.
I have included a couple pics of the microswitch. I haven’t replaced one of these before. If I need to, is it an easy job? I don’t see a diode on the miniswitch but rather two metal posts where it connects to two wires. I’m not sure if soldering is needed to connect a new one to the two wires or if the connect differently.
Thanks in Advance
[quoted image][quoted image]
Get a voltmeter, set it to Ohms, and test the switch. If the switch is good and actuator bent correctly follow the two leads to see if they are touching together somewhere.
I don't see how the new spinner kit is going to fix anything long term. The thin wire spinner arms need to be beefed up . Just one wrong hit will bend the spinner- that might be in 10 plays or 1000. Right now, after early trouble, mine is working perfectly and has been doing so a few hundred plays now.
A good EM frenzy can put you way up there. I have mine set on 4 balls. I know that's heresy for some but I'm 68 years old and my skills aren't getting any better. If you're younger and going for wizard keep the 3 ball game until you get better. As for me it's 4 balls until I go blind and piss myself. I can hardly wait.
This is a great game that would look even better with a Pink Floyd Dark Side beside it. We can only hope.
I think to experience LZ in the arcade atmosphere is like going to a concert where the amps don't work. You need the music cranked up and a sub at least but Pinwoofer is better. This is the first pin I turn on in the morning and last one I play.
If a game is 10 years old and in the top Pinside 10 then you should pay attention. Otherwise the top 100 is pretty worthless. If you like LZ then you should buy it as it's a great game, especially in the home environment with the audio cranked up. I think it's rightful place should be in the top 20 games but there are Ford vs Chevy people out there that rank the competition a 2 which unfairly brings the average down.
Quoted from mlev25:Not sure if I should create a new thread or start with this owners thread….but has anybody had issues being awarded points for hitting the right flipper during song selection and periodically during game play? I came home today and my 9 year old daughter had all the high scores registered. A little pissed as she beat all my scores I challenged her to a game…..yes I’m 38 and mature So as I watch her play her turn she just sat there hitting the right flipper as fast as she could racking up millions each time during song selection. Heck, it even pumped points during the game play. What the hell! Anybody else seen this??
Vibration from the flipper is probably setting off a too sensitive switch. Which switch it is will probably show up in the switch test.
The design had to be changed from EHOH as hitting the glass caused the gargoyles to break off. Too bad as it is satisfying somehow
Quoted from gwarrior:Anyone experiencing--or better yet have a solution for--consistent rejects from the top lock?
Didn't have this problem until about a week ago. Now the top shot rejects about 95% of the solid, deliberate shots into the right orbit. I'm only able to land the top lock on a weak shot up the orbit, or a lucky bounce off the jets.
I haven't had this problem but when I checked mine the rubber was askew, from the factory probably. I'd check that, make sure the switch is depressing easily in the hole, make sure the metal stop back of the hole is perpendicular and not tilted.
PXL_20210628_132437108 (resized).jpgPXL_20210628_132531829 (resized).jpgAnybody else having a problem making a back handed shot to the right ramp you might try this from Marco. Replace the longer one like it on the ramp support. You'll need to keep one washer under there or an under ramp ball won't clear. I just made 11 shots in a row, smooth as butter.
I'd make sure you fix it then have the newest code. I haven't had a spinner problem for a few months now though my first week of ownership I had 2 failures
I noticed under the new code "any ramp" now means any lit ramp so you can't just repeatily hit the center ramp 6 times during 1st tour... It's a bit harder now.
Quoted from drredness:Can someone help an amateur like me fix the Electric Magic spinner so that it resets upright? Bending the wire...ugh. Only gets bent again during multiball when I hit the bottom of the spinner flush as it's spinning. Thanks in advance!
Spin the spinner as it is now and notice the little ends of the spinner that stick thru the mount hole. You must get these perfectly straight, no wobble. Then remove the spinner from the frame and place between 2 identical glasses on a flat surface. See if it hangs roughly OK. Bend the spinner wires so the bottom doesn't hang straight up and down but the bottom is away from you a bit- you want the spinner to be level with the playfield and not level with the floor the pin sits on in the end. Reattach the spinner and recheck the end wobble.
Quoted from badactor:My LZ will not leave my collection, it's not an easy game but love the shots and skill needed.
Anyone have Aerosmith and LZ? I've played AS and like it and certainly like the music.
I started reading up on the Aerosmith forum and as with all pins they have issues and you have to throw out the guys who never should have bought a pinball and stuck to video games, having said that I'd like to hear some comparisons from the LZ group.
I have both and both were bought NIB. AS is great as you can choose your strategy- go with a 3 ball multi or hold out for a 6 ball, risking loosing it all. Finish a song totally or try to make it partially to get thru all the songs to get final tour points. I feel AS was really built for me and never gets old.
LZ has an excitement factor AS doesn't have and the shots you DO make seem to be more satisfying... it's kind of hard for me to put my finger on it. Both are great but quite different.
The truth is both games are a blast and I can't see either leaving. I recommend both. In fact, Stern has really been on a roll lately. My recent additions- EHOH, DP, LZ have all been keepers.
Mine was doing that. The plunger was off center and catching on a bracket. Check the plunge of another Stern that's working properly and you'll see the difference. I had to bend the bracket so the plunger would clear.
Quoted from RKip455:Anyone having trouble qith Icarus? It seems mine is no longer scoring when hit? I does not register when the ball its it or does it move upward like it did originally. Anyone have this issue?
I'd make sure there's not something blocking the mechanism like a loose screw, nut , or washer- you must be able to depress the metal strip that activates the switch and makes the Icarus rise. Also make sure you can easily pull up on the Icarus. If it's binding or stuck it might cause your problem. Pull the playfield up and make sure the long metal piece is still in it's guide and bottom set screw is still there
Quoted from N101AA:How was this error resolved? There is a premium on location that I play and the electric magic mech is always up during game play. It will go down for a brief moment in order to complete a combo shot, but it's always in the up position otherwise. Checking the technician alerts, I see this same alert.
I sort of volunteer my time helping with games at a location while they get a tech trained up. I myself am not really a tech, but next time I visit I'd like to see if I can resolve this issue. The game is not very fun to play at the moment with the mech constantly up, blocking some of the shots.
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This is only a guess but usually there would be a switch to let the pin know the EM is in the down position and another to let the pin know it's up. You should see this in the switch test as the EM cycles. Also check the EM spinner opto and make sure the spinner is not blocking the opto at it's rest position.
I would add most times this would be due to a loose connection. Reseat cables at the EM and if that doesn't do it follow cables to node board and reseat those as well. I just fixed my EHOH doing a continuous cycling at the graveyard. A connection was visibley half way off.
Quoted from Greaseman:Here's the video of left scoop reject. This was from a right flipper cradle.
Thanks to Hay for video posting instructions and to rb14 for sharing the pain with me. Seriously, I was struggling to believe that no one else was having this same issue.
I fired it up again last night (after avoiding it for a bit), and sure enough - reject city. Hit several shots from the right cradle and had about 2/3 get rejected, including one when extra ball was lit - that one ganked out and ended up going SDTM. I turned off the machine.
No way a slow ball like that should eject. Try unplugging up kicker solenoid and make sure plunger is returning to rest position and not sticking 1/2 way up. Hand toss a ball into hole with machine off. You can manually push the plunger to eject ball. If that seems to work OK you might make the "ball on" switch less sensitive so the ball settles deeper before triggering.
Quoted from Bellagio:To use the settings that FF recommended, I had to turn off the equalizer. I tried turning on the equalizer and put in a v shape, but it was pretty much the same.
Is there any way to turn down the sound effects/callouts and turn up the music?
Turn music attenuation to minus 10 or 20. Turn speech attenuation to plus 5 or 10.
I had difficulty making the right ramp with a backhand so I lowered the ramp 1/4 inch which made things better but I could only consistently do it the first 10 minutes of play due to flipper fade. I added a 5v usb fan and it cured it without spending $120. Plug your 9ft. USB extension into the back box port where you do updates and add a USB fan
This did wonders for about $15 to $20.
You need a 9 to 10 ft USB extension and your choice of fan, the pancake style will work if you desire. I mounted with double sided tape and a little epoxy.
Quoted from dtrimberger:Anybody making apron art for those of us adding on IC readers. Had to take out the R zeppelin on my premium, now I need some new matching art for the L and R. Thoughts or referrals?
Thanks
Wiz mods makes an apron cover for LZ with IC reader, if that's what you're asking.
Mine hits the top of the sling to the right flipper.
This is really a great game but receives a lot of criticism, some deserved, some not .
The big thing for me was not being able to consistently make the right ramp with the back hand. I made a few changes I've posted before but PM me if it's a problem.
I also had a problem hitting the center ramp from the 3rd flipper so I adjusted the settings to remove the need to.
I also set the multiballs to easy. Before you say "play better" I'm 69 years old so if I maintain the status quo I'll be lucky.
This game is very adjustable to your ability and is a great addition to my collection. It is probably my favorite 2 player game. The music is incredible but must be heard through a proper amplified sub woofer system at least and in a home setting as there's just too much other stuff competing in an arcade setting.
Once dialed in this is a top 10 game. It's a little too bad some just play it at factory settings in a noisy arcade.
I added a small piece of automotive vacuum hose around the left post of the ZEP target. I haven't had any more problems.
Quoted from PoMC:Hey, what does everyone's ball hit on a full plunge or with auto launcher? Mine hits the "D" target most of the time on a full plunge.
The game on location would launch the ball cleanly into the dead end "Guy with a lantern" target. I had to adjust and pull back a little more than halfway on the plunger to hit the "D". Was cool seeing the ball launch up there, should it? If so, what should I adjust?
Edit: pretty sure this gate is the issue. Except I fixed it and still skillshot at the "D" target on full plunge. Auto launch power is default 200.
[quoted image]
Make sure the manual plunger is not catching slightly on the auto plunger and pulling that along too. Mine was doing that from the factory.
Quoted from Drussksu:Has anyone gotten a replacement metal gate to replace the one way gate at the shooter lane? I can’t seem to find one on pinball life. Mine is on its last legs.
The gate wire should be about 2 1/4 inches wide
The Iron Maiden gate will work though it is "u" shaped instead of the LZ "w". Just try to find a similar Stern gate wire
On my LZ the shooter was slightly grabbing the auto shooter mech surrounding it. I had to bend the auto shooter out of the way a bit and it works perfectly. It's very hard to spot as things are so fast.
What I've found is I always make the most perfect choice.
If it's a pro - I'm SO glad I didn't spend the extra $. If it's a premium - I'm SO glad I paid for the extras as they are worth it. You really can't go wrong.
Quoted from Zac1:I have a led zep pro.
Has anyone else had issues with the 2inch rubber behind the drop targets constantly breaking ..
2.5inch seems to big and sloppy
Sorry if has been asked before
I slid a piece of automobile vacuum hose over the posts behind Z and P. , Then installed rubber. No more breaking or need to rotate .
Quoted from LFD45:Joined the club today. My machine is on the ship, meaning it would have been made around month ago. Does anybody know if it will come with a connected Kit?
It should come with the connect kit if made last month. You WILL have to register it on the Stern web site to have it function.
I installed Pinwoofer and a powered sub. Big difference. You might try the powered sub first and see how you like it as it's only about $100 and you can hook it up to 3 more games with Pinnovators splitter. I missed the powered sub over Pinwoofer alone so added it back.
Quoted from TheBeefSupreme:Thanks! Any sub recommendation? I haven’t ever hooked one up to a pin.
If you don't want to solder just get the Pinnovators sub adaptor.
I have 2 Polk PSW10 that are adequate. I have a Yamaha sub I like better. Just be sure to get a powered sub. The Pinnovators output is a mini stereo jack so you might have to get an adaptor for a standard stereo jack...this will depend on what sub you buy.
I just looked and the PSW10 is about $170 now so don't be afraid to buy another brand of 10 to 12 inch powered sub. I bought my PSW,'s from Accessories4less for less than $100 just a few months ago...not in stock now though.
If you get the Pinwoofer and want a sub you will need to solder + and - to the base cabinet leads and attach the sub.
Ball should pass freely under ramp. If it's catching add a washer or two at ramp support. If it CAN pass under but doesn't it's likely the game pitch or level right to left.
It's just a hard shot. You can adjust modes to eliminate or lessen the need to make that shot or as often but you're still stuck with it. Also you can make your extra balls easier to obtain to give you more chances at it.
I agree Rush is much smoother shooter so run out and get one. It makes a nice addition to LZ. .
Quoted from TheBeefSupreme:Every once in a while when I lock the EM ball and the mech lowers, the game won’t eject another ball into the shooter lane. It will just wait and then eventually do a ball search which give me the EM ball back when it rises. That means I have to hit the magnet again and it has always worked that second time. Any idea what I should be adjusting to prevent this from happening??
The game does a ball search because it doesn't know where the ball is. My guess is the EM opto registers the ball or it would never lower in the first place. But when it lowers the ball rocks a bit and the opto doesn't register it
This can be due to not enough game pitch, the opto receiver needs adjusting, or the spinner arms need to be bent back straight again. (If the arms are bent, it works great one way, pushes the ball off the opto the other.)
You'll notice it's the center most post where it wants to break. Sleeve this post with vacuum or windshield washer hose you can get from Advance. You will have no more problems.
Here's a tip that may help you make that center ramp- it has helped me, maybe 10 percent or so. Remove the rubber of the upper flipper then take a pinball and see where it hits the upper flipper about 1/4 inch above the tip.
Take a Dremel with about a 1 inch sander wheel and grind a 1/4 moon shape in the flipper where the ball hits. Replace the rubber- this should hide any grinding you've done. This will extend the sweet spot of the flipper and help you make this difficult shot- it still won't be easy but a tiny bit easier
Have you tested the spinner opto? If the opto is blocked the pin will think there's a ball in the EM .
Magnet opto should not register if no ball is on it. Spinner opto should not register if at rest position-spin it several times just to test it.
I think what is happening is EM thinks you have a ball in there and raises. If it doesn't clear you might eventually get the EM failure alert.
If it's the magnet opto you'll need to find the problem.Loose wire, stray piece of metal, alignment problem, bad opto
Quoted from madamyates:Appears to be an alignment issue coupled a janky after market spinner. I fixed the alignment issue but the ball would get stuck on the spinner as the EM went down. Pinball Life had just one narrow opto spinner in stock yesterday so I ordered it. Hoping this solves the problem.
I would only add increasing the slope of the game decreases the likelihood of the ball stopping at the spinner.
Glad you seem to have found the problem. Good luck!
Quoted from RyThom:Anyone have any tips on reducing rejects from the right ramp?
Use spacer 254-5052-00 from Marco to reduce ramp height. Also I added a fan to the right flipper coil to reduce fade
Quoted from newpinbin:Have you noticed a difference since the fan install?
Yes, but this this the only pin I felt this was needed on . I can backhand the right ramp from the right flipper repeatedly but used to have problems after 15 minutes of play. I have seen no fade on my Aerosmith, AFM, GZ, DP, Rush, or IM.
I got a USB fan from Amazon and 9ft USB cord. There are 2 styles of fans, one is a pancake style. I mounted with epoxy. You can tap into the USB port at the main CPU or get an adapter and tap into the 110v at the transformer.
Or you can get the really nice set up they advertise here. I really recommend this for LZ. It's so frustrating to only go half way up the ramp. I'd also lower the ramp with the Marco spacer if you have something else you need to order -its not worth the shipping costs otherwise.
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