(Topic ID: 79669)

Impossible flipper bat - FIXED

By adalogue

10 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 20 posts
  • 7 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 10 years ago by adalogue
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

You

Linked Games

Topic Gallery

View topic image gallery

515-5051-00-1.jpg
#1 10 years ago

I can't seem to get the crank tight enough to prevent the flipper bat from
gradually "floating" upwards after several cycles. Rebuilt flippers and original flipper bat. It wasn't an issue before I rebuilt the flippers. Pinball Life flipper kit.

Input?

Thanks!

#2 10 years ago

The bat post could have a flat spot on it where the screw has been tightened against it. If you loosen it can you feel if it has a flat spot where it tries to settle to when tightening it?

#3 10 years ago

i had that problem once and it turned out i was tightening the wrong screw, haha. so my advice is just double check that you're not as dumb as me.

#4 10 years ago

It seems to move smoothly, haven't noticed a flat spot. Even when I have it cranked down very tightly, I can rotate the flipper bat either direction fairly easily.

#5 10 years ago

Those should clamp around the bat shaft on Data East. They have to be very tight to squeeze down and hold.

#6 10 years ago

Is this what you have? If it is you must tighten more! The screw on the right that is. The one with the red thing on it. But make sure the flipper still has a little up and down play through the bushing or it will bind.
515-5051-00-1.jpg515-5051-00-1.jpg

#7 10 years ago

That's it.

I have done my fair share or flipper rebuilds and know how tight to tighten the crank. This one is unique for some reason. Perhaps the return spring bracket that goes between the lock nut and crank is causing the issue? I noticed it is deformed, perhaps I can't tighten the screw tight enough (before screw head or tool stripping) to flatten that bracket out and still close the clamp right enough around the shaft.

I can pull the return spring bracket, any ideas on how to hold the spring, if that is indeed the issue?

#8 10 years ago
Quoted from adalogue:

Perhaps the return spring bracket that goes between the lock nut and crank is causing the issue? I noticed it is deformed,

I just did GnR yesterday and the spring bracket is not flat. it has two lips that go on either side of the crank. If yours is bad then you may want to get new ones if they are available. If not, the kit came with coil springs that can go over the plunger, but that is not ideal.

#9 10 years ago

Ok, will give that a go. Thanks everyone!

#10 10 years ago
Quoted from adalogue:

This one is unique for some reason.

I will add that it is unique in that it has girth, therefore takes more effort to tighten. I personally like this set up. Makes adjusting flipper position easy.

#11 10 years ago

The DE ones are solid. The one thing Stern did better than Williams in my opinion.

I'm puzzled when reading this thread as I don't see where the op noted it was a DE before someone showed the photo.

If it's a b/w style pawl, the ones PBL sells are crap, sorry Terry, but they bend so easily when tightening. I thought they were all the same, but when pulling off original factory ones, they seemed much tougher to tighten and would not bend as easily when doing so. I spoke to Steve Young and PBR, and he noted his were to Williams spec, started ordering sets from him, and they are super strong just like originals. I only buy them from Steve now, plus they are much cheaper for kits and they kits have everything, every screw bushing, everything.

Not a plug for PBR so much, and I have bought lots of PBL, but for these, and flipper rubbers (red), they are just not as good from PBL.

#12 10 years ago
Quoted from Atomicboy:

The DE ones are solid. The one thing Stern did better than Williams in my opinion.
I'm puzzled when reading this thread as I don't see where the op noted it was a DE before someone showed the photo.
If it's a b/w style pawl, the ones PBL sells are crap, sorry Terry, but they bend so easily when tightening. I thought they were all the same, but when pulling off original factory ones, they seemed much tougher to tighten and would not bend as easily when doing so. I spoke to Steve Young and PBR, and he noted his were to Williams spec, started ordering sets from him, and they are super strong just like originals. I only buy them from Steve now, plus they are much cheaper for kits and they kits have everything, every screw bushing, everything.
Not a plug for PBR so much, and I have bought lots of PBL, but for these, and flipper rubbers (red), they are just not as good from PBL.

A game has been tagged in the thread.

#13 10 years ago
Quoted from Atomicboy:

I'm puzzled when reading this thread as I don't see where the op noted it was a DE before someone showed the photo.

I have ESP.

#14 10 years ago

Only one side of the link is threaded I believe. So make sure you don't put the bolt in the wrong way, or it will never tighten...

#15 10 years ago

Not rocket science.^ But he is correct. The screw will tighten but the clamp won't close.

#16 10 years ago

Replaced the coil retaining bracket that mounts to the crank, works fine now. Issue was a slightly deformed bracket for the return spring.

#17 10 years ago
Quoted from adalogue:

Replaced the coil retaining bracket that mounts to the crank, works fine now. Issue was a slightly deformed bracket for the return spring.

Congrats! That's good news. You didn't happen to have that spring bracket inside the gap on the crank, did you?

#18 10 years ago

No it was installed correctly, just a deformed spring bracket.

#19 10 years ago

As long as it works now. Where did you get the new bracket? One of mine is looking a little tattered.

#20 10 years ago

Robbed one from a WPC crank.

Promoted items from Pinside Marketplace and Pinside Shops!
$ 28.00
Electronics
Yorktown Arcade Supply
 
4,500
Machine - For Sale
Ogden, UT
$ 35.00
Hardware
Filament Printing
 
$ 18.95
Eproms
Pinballrom
 
$ 36.95
Eproms
Pinballrom
 
$ 16.00
Boards
Lermods
 
$ 5.00
Playfield - Protection
UpKick Pinball
 
From: $ 9.99
$ 32.00
Electronics
Yorktown Arcade Supply
 
$ 18.95
Eproms
Pinballrom
 
$ 20.00
Cabinet - Other
Filament Printing
 
From: $ 50.00
Cabinet - Armor And Blades
arcade-cabinets.com
 
$ 15.00
Cabinet - Sound/Speakers
Gweem's Mods
 
From: $ 159.95
Cabinet - Sound/Speakers
PinSound
 
$ 99.00
Cabinet - Toppers
Slipstream Mod Shop
 
From: $ 40.00
Lighting - Interactive
Professor Pinball
 
$ 18.95
Great pinball charity
Pinball Edu

Reply

Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.

Hey there! Welcome to Pinside!

Donate to Pinside

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!


This page was printed from https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/impossible-flipper-bat and we tried optimising it for printing. Some page elements may have been deliberately hidden.

Scan the QR code on the left to jump to the URL this document was printed from.