Grand Lizard
Williams, 1986Quoted from justler:I sand to 3000 grit in a dewalt 5” sander, no novus or clear. Turns out like the entire playfield
Looks clear coated.
Here’s Black Knight. I think my pads go 1500, 2000 then 3000. Takes another 5 mins to go
From 1500 to 3000.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Wow, that's no clear, just sanded to 3000? Impressive.
I feel like I read somewhere that novus 2 was roughly equivalent to 3000 grit. Heck of a lot more consistent with an orbital regardless.
Quoted from Ollulanus:Wow, that's no clear, just sanded to 3000? Impressive.
I feel like I read somewhere that novus 2 was roughly equivalent to 3000 grit. Heck of a lot more consistent with an orbital regardless.
No clear, no wet sanding.
I just buy this kit:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0B51GK5Z7/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title
Quoted from Ollulanus:I'm in. Gonna be hearing that drumbeat in my sleep.
[quoted image]
But game play is so worth it!
I do not say this lightly. Grand lizard for 80’s pinball is JUST as good as BSD for 90’s pinball. I ignored the game for many years because other games always seemed to have better themes but this game is just about perfect in every way. I actually like it better than Space Shuttle for a classic and Shuttle is among THE most respected 80’s titles. Yeah, Oursler was a genius and pinball master with the simplicity of his designs. I am so happy I was able to hang out with him and chat about pinball. I will never forget it.
Quoted from snyper2099:I do not say this lightly. Grand lizard for 80’s pinball is JUST as good as BSD for 90’s pinball. I ignored the game for many years because other games always seemed to have better themes but this game is just about perfect in every way. I actually like it better than Space Shuttle for a classic and Shuttle is among THE most respected 80’s titles. Yeah, Oursler was a genius and pinball master with the simplicity of his designs. I am so happy I was able to hang out with him and chat about pinball. I will never forget it.
Agreed. I'm a classic stern guy, but man, the rules, music, and lights on GL are just brilliant. Definitely one of those games you don't fully appreciate until you get it setup right and play it at home where you can hear and see it as really intended.
This one's in pretty solid condition, shopping it out a bit today. Great player's condition as is, but definitely going in the cue for a full custom restore. Gonna have to add a sub, maybe an amp and better speakers in the meantime for that thumping beat...
Quoted from snyper2099:I do not say this lightly. Grand lizard for 80’s pinball is JUST as good as BSD for 90’s pinball. I ignored the game for many years because other games always seemed to have better themes but this game is just about perfect in every way. I actually like it better than Space Shuttle for a classic and Shuttle is among THE most respected 80’s titles. Yeah, Oursler was a genius and pinball master with the simplicity of his designs. I am so happy I was able to hang out with him and chat about pinball. I will never forget it.
I wouldn't swap my Sorcerer for it, but luckily i didn't have to. I do agree it's a great representation of the era and the 70/80's art really does it for me, that's when i got most of my tattoos, and it's mostly the same art.
Also a really fun game with great sounds.
Quoted from punkin:I wouldn't swap my Sorcerer for it, but luckily i didn't have to. I do agree it's a great representation of the era and the 70/80's art really does it for me, that's when i got most of my tattoos, and it's mostly the same art.
Also a really fun game with great sounds.
Sorcerer kicks too, but that wizard ain't wrestling monkeys man.
Sanded the edges and bottom of inserts to get them ready to epoxy in last night.
Got the insert holes all cleaned out this morning and epoxied in. Also installed the green leg guards, new sliding casters, pin gulp and green washers. Looks slick I think!
Reused 4 red 1” starbursts and the orange triangle. Everything else is new! I always have trouble differentiating red and amber 
.
IMG_7869 (resized).jpegIMG_7870 (resized).jpegIMG_7873 (resized).jpegIMG_7874 (resized).jpegIMG_7875 (resized).jpegQuoted from Ollulanus:Sorcerer kicks too, but that wizard ain't wrestling monkeys man.
The monkeys don't say 'You are Master' either. 
I’ve owned sorcerer and grand lizard, only one stayed, the Lizard!
Both great games but lizard has the edge.
So I spent a couple hours sanding the playfield in preparation for the hard top yesterday afternoon. Turned out nice, this one had a bit more black dust ground into areas of the playfield I wasn't willing to sand all the way out.
I always get disheartened at the beginning on the 60-grit because the inserts don't feel level at first (Feel humped up even) and it takes quite a bit to sand them flush. If you haven't replaced inserts, replacements are taller and a little wider than the holes they go in. My last post showed me sanding the sides and I also scuff the bottoms so the epoxy has something to grab. I also use my milwaukee rotary tool to clean out the holes. You're usually left with a .02-.05" lip above the playfield.
The playfield art also comes off pretty slow and you go through about 3-6 pads due to the adhesive that's left over from the mylar as well as sanding off the clear coat. I feel the inserts along the way and can feel the little humps and just feel like it will never level out! It does though! Once I get to about 120 or 180 grit I start to get happy .
In general my process is to do passes side to side short ways or long ways with about half a sander overlap. I want to get everything off til there's about a half inch of art around the inserts so I can see which ones are still humped up when I hit just the tops of them (I sand the tops of the inserts in the process as well, not just around them). I work away at the tops of the inserts until I notice the art around them coming off and then I know i'm getting pretty level with the playfield. I also make sure I move from insert to insert to make sure I don't get them too hot. All of this is with 60-80 grit paper at this point. Once I get things fairly even I switch up to 80 grit and start just doing even, overlapping passes. No specific amount, sometimes i'll do 2, sometimes 4. They go relatively quick.
The grits that come in the kit I use are 80 180 220 400 600 800 1000 1500 2000 3000. I have some 60 grit and 120 grit that I added as well, but if you get the kit you can just use the steps it comes with (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0B51GK5Z7/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title). I ordered an extra set because I was low and thought I ordered one that went up to 10,000 grit and was excited to try that, then realized upon opening it was 400-3000. Oh well, next time!
No clear coat, no wet sanding, just a Dewalt 5" 20v sander. I went through a 9AH 60v FlexVolt battery and 1/4 of another. So probably a couple 5AH 20v would do it.
I did not tape anything on the bottom side of the playfield. When finished I used my little air compressor to blow out each hole and bulb socket as well as the back of the playfield. It really is not that bad. I see people take their time and tape holes and stuff but it's just not worth it if you have a compressor. I taped my first one and I still have to blow it out.
Sorry for the deluge of pictures but wanted to show some detail between steps. Unfortunately I didn't mark each one, but once you get up to about 600-800 grit it starts looking a little shiney on the wood. 1500 is where the inserts start getting really clear and 3000 grit makes it look polished.
step0 (resized).JPGstep1 (resized).JPGstep3 (resized).JPGstep3-1 (resized).JPGstep2 (resized).JPGstep5 (resized).JPGstep6 (resized).JPGstep7 (resized).JPGstep7-1 (resized).JPGstep8 (resized).JPGstep8-1 (resized).JPGstpe9 (resized).JPGstep10 (resized).JPGstep11 (resized).JPGstep12 (resized).JPGstep13 (resized).JPGQuoted from justler:So I spent a couple hours sanding the playfield in preparation for the hard top yesterday afternoon. Turned out nice, this one had a bit more black dust ground into areas of the playfield I wasn't willing to sand all the way out.
I always get disheartened at the beginning on the 60-grit because the inserts don't feel level at first (Feel humped up even) and it takes quite a bit to sand them flush. If you haven't replaced inserts, replacements are taller and a little wider than the holes they go in. My last post showed me sanding the sides and I also scuff the bottoms so the epoxy has something to grab. I also use my milwaukee rotary tool to clean out the holes. You're usually left with a .02-.05" lip above the playfield.
The playfield art also comes off pretty slow and you go through about 3-6 pads due to the adhesive that's left over from the mylar as well as sanding off the clear coat. I feel the inserts along the way and can feel the little humps and just feel like it will never level out! It does though! Once I get to about 120 or 180 grit I start to get happy .
In general my process is to do passes side to side short ways or long ways with about half a sander overlap. I want to get everything off til there's about a half inch of art around the inserts so I can see which ones are still humped up when I hit just the tops of them (I sand the tops of the inserts in the process as well, not just around them). I work away at the tops of the inserts until I notice the art around them coming off and then I know i'm getting pretty level with the playfield. I also make sure I move from insert to insert to make sure I don't get them too hot. All of this is with 60-80 grit paper at this point. Once I get things fairly even I switch up to 80 grit and start just doing even, overlapping passes. No specific amount, sometimes i'll do 2, sometimes 4. They go relatively quick.
The grits that come in the kit I use are 80 180 220 400 600 800 1000 1500 2000 3000. I have some 60 grit and 120 grit that I added as well, but if you get the kit you can just use the steps it comes with (amazon.com link »). I ordered an extra set because I was low and thought I ordered one that went up to 10,000 grit and was excited to try that, then realized upon opening it was 400-3000. Oh well, next time!
No clear coat, no wet sanding, just a Dewalt 5" 20v sander. I went through a 9AH 60v FlexVolt battery and 1/4 of another. So probably a couple 5AH 20v would do it.
I did not tape anything on the bottom side of the playfield. When finished I used my little air compressor to blow out each hole and bulb socket as well as the back of the playfield. It really is not that bad. I see people take their time and tape holes and stuff but it's just not worth it if you have a compressor. I taped my first one and I still have to blow it out.
Sorry for the deluge of pictures but wanted to show some detail between steps. Unfortunately I didn't mark each one, but once you get up to about 600-800 grit it starts looking a little shiney on the wood. 1500 is where the inserts start getting really clear and 3000 grit makes it look polished.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Thanks for all of that good info and pics! Very helpful!
Quoted from punkin:I'm enjoying the info, but it's left me wondering, if you sand the inserts level and then put a cover on it that's thicker, won't there be a dent where the insert is?
The Hardtop is a uniform thickness. The areas matching up with the inserts are clear, except for text or symbols.
Quoted from RCA1:The Hardtop is a uniform thickness. The areas matching up with the inserts are clear, except for text or symbols.
This is correct. The Hardtop is made in a similar style as a pinball plastics set. The entire sheet is PETG or some other material with artwork screened/printed on the bottom side. There is adhesive also applied on the bottom and then a paper backing over the adhesive. It's all pretty much the same thickness, except for where the adhesive is applied i'd imagine due to it's own thickness. After applying the hard top if you push down where an insert is, there is no movement.
Anyone know on the red circles if these are 63 or 89 flasher bulbs? 63 are 7v and 89 would be 12v. I'd like to go with 89 if possible since they are cheaper and have color options. I pulled all my bulbs and can't remember which was in which (The game had both 63 and 89). The manual says 63, but I know I pulled a bunch of 89s and locations they say are 63s are not (They say left and right hand magna save have 63 flashers and they do not).
The eyes of the lizard in mine have 63 bulbs in them. There are two backbox 63/89 bulbs as well. Was hoping I could just get 89s and swap everything to 12v but the manual says everything on the playfield is 63 flashers. Don't have the playfield in and these are controlled flashers so even if it was hooked up it's a pain to measure. I'm building my LED list to order... got all the inserts and GIs figured out except for the flashers.
I've been putting together my own LED kit and placed my order to Comet Pinball for LEDs. I ended up ordering all 89s. If the 89s don't work, I'll just swap the wiring to 12v.
Made the attached diagrams for bulb placement. Warm White GI with clear color matched inserts.
Grand Lizard Insert Colors
1 - 14x 1SMD Clear Red
2 - 6x 1SMD Clear Green
3 - 21x 1SMD Clear Cool White
4 - 15x 1SMD Clear Warm White
Flashers:
5 - 10x Warm White #63 or #89 Flashers (63 LED are 7v, 89 are 12v)
Playfield GI:
6 - 29x Warm White 1SMD Frosted
Backbox GI:
7 - 39x Warm White 1SMD Frosted
8 - 1x 455 Blinking Bulb
I ordered some sunlight and additional warm white 1SMD clear bulbs for the white inserts just incase I don't like the blueness of the cool white.
I ordered rings from Titan as well, i'll make sure everything fits well before uploading my pic to their ring database similar to what I did with the LEDs. The owners manual diagram sucks for rubbers as well.
Light Layout - Backbox (resized).jpgLight Layout - Filled In (resized).jpg
Quoted from justler:So I spent a couple hours sanding the playfield in preparation for the hard top yesterday afternoon. Turned out nice, this one had a bit more black dust ground into areas of the playfield I wasn't willing to sand all the way out.
I always get disheartened at the beginning on the 60-grit because the inserts don't feel level at first (Feel humped up even) and it takes quite a bit to sand them flush. If you haven't replaced inserts, replacements are taller and a little wider than the holes they go in. My last post showed me sanding the sides and I also scuff the bottoms so the epoxy has something to grab. I also use my milwaukee rotary tool to clean out the holes. You're usually left with a .02-.05" lip above the playfield.
The playfield art also comes off pretty slow and you go through about 3-6 pads due to the adhesive that's left over from the mylar as well as sanding off the clear coat. I feel the inserts along the way and can feel the little humps and just feel like it will never level out! It does though! Once I get to about 120 or 180 grit I start to get happy .
In general my process is to do passes side to side short ways or long ways with about half a sander overlap. I want to get everything off til there's about a half inch of art around the inserts so I can see which ones are still humped up when I hit just the tops of them (I sand the tops of the inserts in the process as well, not just around them). I work away at the tops of the inserts until I notice the art around them coming off and then I know i'm getting pretty level with the playfield. I also make sure I move from insert to insert to make sure I don't get them too hot. All of this is with 60-80 grit paper at this point. Once I get things fairly even I switch up to 80 grit and start just doing even, overlapping passes. No specific amount, sometimes i'll do 2, sometimes 4. They go relatively quick.
The grits that come in the kit I use are 80 180 220 400 600 800 1000 1500 2000 3000. I have some 60 grit and 120 grit that I added as well, but if you get the kit you can just use the steps it comes with (amazon.com link »). I ordered an extra set because I was low and thought I ordered one that went up to 10,000 grit and was excited to try that, then realized upon opening it was 400-3000. Oh well, next time!
No clear coat, no wet sanding, just a Dewalt 5" 20v sander. I went through a 9AH 60v FlexVolt battery and 1/4 of another. So probably a couple 5AH 20v would do it.
I did not tape anything on the bottom side of the playfield. When finished I used my little air compressor to blow out each hole and bulb socket as well as the back of the playfield. It really is not that bad. I see people take their time and tape holes and stuff but it's just not worth it if you have a compressor. I taped my first one and I still have to blow it out.
Sorry for the deluge of pictures but wanted to show some detail between steps. Unfortunately I didn't mark each one, but once you get up to about 600-800 grit it starts looking a little shiney on the wood. 1500 is where the inserts start getting really clear and 3000 grit makes it look polished.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Looks really good, man! Twice here lately I've driven over 5 hours round trip to look at machines I wanted to buy, both having hardtops (Flash Gordon and Eightball Deluxe). In both instances the inserts were the originals, and most of them looked lousy. Once you put the hardtop on, those inserts are in there permanently! You can't get them out again until you remove that hardtop, which is a bitch to do (ask me how I know). People installing hardtops should really consider insert condition. I myself did not at first, but glad some fellow pinsiders schooled me.
Quoted from ROMM:Looks really good, man! Twice here lately I've driven over 5 hours round trip to look at machines I wanted to buy, both having hardtops (Flash Gordon and Eightball Deluxe). In both instances the inserts were the originals, and most of them looked lousy. Once you put the hardtop on, those inserts are in there permanently! You can't get them out again until you remove that hardtop, which is a bitch to do (ask me how I know). People installing hardtops should really consider insert condition. I myself did not at first, but glad some fellow pinsiders schooled me.
Thanks! This has been a really fun game to work on.
I have watched a bunch of hard top videos and I just don't understand why people would leave crappy inserts in, or not sand off all the art work. The inserts are cheap and all you need is a heat gun or hair dryer, sanding pads you need anyway and some $4 epoxy. Pretty simple. The most difficult part of that is just cleaning out the epoxy from the old holes.
I equate sanding all the art work off the playfield to stripping all paint off the cabinet for a respray. You don't want the old paint contaminating the new paint and in this case, I want to get down to fresh wood so the adhesive has the best surface to stick to for a long life.
This game has been really fun to work on project wise. Much easier than Black Knight and Space Shuttle!
So, new updates:
- Got the hard top in Thursday (delivered by my brother, he ordered a Frontier and Pinbot one so we combined shipping)!
- I desoldered all the coils and ultrasonic cleaned them yesterday. Let them dry overnight, printed new wrappers and re-wrapped today. They look pretty nice!
- I painted black around the outlanes and a rollover in the back as well as the ramp entrance area, around the drop targets and the ball lock/eject to customize/make it look a little more sleek.
- I ordered new drop targets to be 3d printed in a different color from a local person here (I've done this for Space Shuttle and Black Knight).
Hard top goes on tomorrow afternoon. Friend is coming over to help/learn so he can feel more confident when it's time to do his Space Shuttle.
Top side assembling should go fast. I have to order some rivets, standup target replacements, flipper rebuilds kits and a few other things from PBR for the bottom side, but not a ton... Comet and Titan stuff come Monday and Tuesday... hopefully I can get this thing together and about done in a week or two (famous last words).
painted2 (resized).JPGpainted3 (resized).JPGpainted4 (resized).JPGcoil1 (resized).JPGcoil2 (resized).JPGpainted1 (resized).JPGHard top is on and I got everything reinstalled on the bottom of the playfield except the drop targets and flipper assemblies.
Picked up my 3D printed T drop targets early this morning and got them installed in one bank. Looks pretty good so far.
I’ll be making a PBR order Monday for the flipper rebuild kits and a few other items to mostly finish things up. Will start on the wood rails this week and hopefully get them painted and installed.
IMG_7983 (resized).jpegIMG_7984 (resized).jpegIMG_7985 (resized).jpegIMG_7986 (resized).jpegIMG_7987 (resized).jpegIMG_7988 (resized).jpegIMG_7989 (resized).jpegIMG_7990 (resized).jpegQuoted from Ollulanus:Not quite 100%, but proof of concept and should be able to adjust to perfect on round two. Nice match for the artwork.
[quoted image][quoted image]
Let me know when that's for sale.
Well done!
If you find a way to put some weight in it, it will feel better in the hand too.
Quoted from punkin:Let me know when that's for sale.
Well done!
If you find a way to put some weight in it, it will feel better in the hand too.
Wasn't planning to sell them, but when I get the kinks worked out I could probably make a few of there's interest. Basically made a silicone mold from a standard shooter, used that to make an acrylic from epoxy with the eye set on top. This one came out with the eye off level, but I have a couple thoughts to fix that problem.
Quoted from Ollulanus:Wasn't planning to sell them, but when I get the kinks worked out I could probably make a few of there's interest. Basically made a silicone mold from a standard shooter, used that to make an acrylic from epoxy with the eye set on top. This one came out with the eye off level, but I have a couple thoughts to fix that problem.
Colour me interested. Happy to take a second too if you can work out a way to get it to me that i can afford. 
Quoted from Ollulanus:Swapped out those crappy plastic acorns for some green anodized ones. Dig, though I'm thinking I might get some red ones down the road instead.
[quoted image]
I have gotten away from the acorn nuts. Those are a pain. Lately I just use the rubber post caps. Pinball Life has those in a wide range of colors so no longer just black or white. They seem to hold the plastic on well but have a bit of give if a ball hits the plastic. I used orange ones on my Volcano. May use some colored ones on my Grand Lizard when I shop it out.
Quoted from Robotworkshop:I have gotten away from the acorn nuts. Those are a pain. Lately I just use the rubber post caps. Pinball Life has those in a wide range of colors so no longer just black or white. They seem to hold the plastic on well but have a bit of give if a ball hits the plastic. I used orange ones on my Volcano. May use some colored ones on my Grand Lizard when I shop it out.
Yeah, I was doing those until I did a playfield swap on my seawitch. I put silicone star post protectors down to prevent gouging ten years down, but it raised things just enough that a few kept popping off. So, I ordered blue ones through mezel (which honestly look fantastic). Ordered some to try with lizard and a couple other pins while at it.
Quoted from Robotworkshop:I have gotten away from the acorn nuts. Those are a pain. Lately I just use the rubber post caps. Pinball Life has those in a wide range of colors so no longer just black or white. They seem to hold the plastic on well but have a bit of give if a ball hits the plastic. I used orange ones on my Volcano. May use some colored ones on my Grand Lizard when I shop it out.
Those rubber ones fall off too way too often on tournamnet/league games round these parts.
Has anyone added an amp to their GL, and if so, how'd you tap in? I swapped the cab speaker for a small sub and crossover, but it's not got enough push to thump the cab to the drums like I'm looking for. Thought about just doing an LOC off the speaker wire, if there's a place to tap line level direct, even better. Nothing stood out on the schematics.
I'm in the club! Very happy to be. Need to do some work, glad to find this pin at the price I gort it for, but I know I need a few things. Playfield is awesome. Boots up to some sort of "Testing mode" message, which displays that message very slowly(?)- that might be the norm. I'll play with it more today.
I hate to say it though, the lizard is screwed. His face is snapped in half and someone attempted a shitty repair. Anyone sell or know of replacements for the plastic head? Or anyone 3d-printing mock-ups? [Removed]
Plan on reading back through all messages, newly jumped back into this hobby.
IMG_20230622_070012879 (resized).jpgIMG_20230622_070021168 (resized).jpgIMG_20230622_070026838 (resized).jpgIMG_20230622_070033670 (resized).jpg
I'm about 89% done.
Need to tweak some things. Got a couple new coils coming, one is a spare, the other is for the bottom left flipper that is machine gunning and I think the hold winding is jacked up.
I cut out all the warming resistors and used 89s and all the flasher work well, with exception of the one behind L-I-Z standups and the "Extra Ball/Special" standup above and to the right of the right slingshot. These seem to be controlled via solenoid circuit when I looked at the schematic if I had the right wires. What triggers them to flash?
rails1 (resized).JPGrails2 (resized).JPGpic1 (resized).JPGpic2 (resized).JPGpic2-1 (resized).JPGpic3 (resized).JPGpic4 (resized).JPGpic5 (resized).JPGQuoted from justler:I'm about 89% done.
Very nice work, it’s great to see the care you’ve put into this. The idea of sanding the playfield to a gloss smoothness rather than shooting clear seems like a good one to me; it lowers the bar for people who can’t or don’t want to shoot 2PAC and doesn’t introduce an extra layer of material which could conceivably cause a problem down the line.
I’ve got a working GL in the shop now and as a back-burner project, I have a NOS cleared playfield for it. Seeing this makes me wonder if a hardtop install isn’t actually the better option on GL, since the ball drop off the tongue always causes wear anyway.
It seems like you really *have* to put mylar in that area even on a cleared playfield, whereas with a hardtop it becomes a non-issue.
Freeplay40 still says he’s planning on making new ramps; your machine is gonna be mint with one of those installed!
Again, very nice work.
Quoted from sethbenjamin:Very nice work, it’s great to see the care you’ve put into this. The idea of sanding the playfield to a gloss smoothness rather than shooting clear seems like a good one to me; it lowers the bar for people who can’t or don’t want to shoot 2PAC and doesn’t introduce an extra layer of material which could conceivably cause a problem down the line.
I’ve got a working GL in the shop now and as a back-burner project, I have a NOS cleared playfield for it. Seeing this makes me wonder if a hardtop install isn’t actually the better option on GL, since the ball drop off the tongue always causes wear anyway.
It seems like you really *have* to put mylar in that area even on a cleared playfield, whereas with a hardtop it becomes a non-issue.
Freeplay40 still says he’s planning on making new ramps; your machine is gonna be mint with one of those installed!
Again, very nice work.
Hey, thanks for the kudos and response!
I think taking the extra 10 mins to get up to 3k grit for a glossy finish is well worth reducing the risk of ruining your hard work by applying clear-coat.
I think the quality of the Grand Lizard hard top is pretty good in terms of accuracy and fitment for my playfield at least... GL and maybe a couple other playfields where a ball drops I think are great candidates for hard tops. Although Mylar would protect artwork, it's not going to harden a surface to be resistant against an impact or repeated impacts.
A new ramp would be nice... mine did shine up pretty well after a good solid cleaning but it would be nice to be able to get a different color or a clear ramp maybe as well... I have an extra clear ramp for my space shuttle in a box.
Quoted from justler:t would be nice to be able to get a different color or a clear ramp maybe as well
Wasn't someone looking to make transparent green ramps at one point? Anything come of that?
<=== still dreaming about a repro prototype plastic set.
Luzur
Pinfatuated
Quoted from mof:<=== still dreaming about a repro prototype plastic set.
Luzur
Pinfatuated
I know i know LOL ive been having real life like up the bum, and no vacation til after august, gotta make some decision
Quoted from Luzur:real life
I liked your hand-drawn set because I think it incorporated the playfield blue-grey the best. I liked all the sets for different reasons.
-mof
Quoted from mof:I liked your hand-drawn set because I think it incorporated the playfield blue-grey the best. I liked all the sets for different reasons.
-mof
I dunno what i should do really, should i just release the files for free and let you customers arrange the plastics yourselves, continue to wait for pinfatuated to return or try to find some cheap firm in the states/or in europe and ship?
Quoted from Luzur:try to find some cheap firm in the states/or in europe and ship
I don't know but, I suppose 20-40 people have figured out how to print their own plastics, maybe a few more of them have learned how to do a few short runs in the US. I would open a new thread and ask away =)
Quoted from Luzur:dunno what i should do really, should i just release the files for free and let you customers arrange the plastics yourselves,
Getting plastic blanks cut is relatively easy through SendCutSend; getting graphics printed and adhered is something I have done in-house, but it’s time consuming and just isn’t the same thing as getting screen printed plastics made. On the other hand, I’d probably give it a go if the files were available. I’d prefer to just be able to purchase a set, but if that’s not in the offing (understandable), I’d welcome the opportunity to make a set as a DIY project.
Quoted from psd4me:I would prefer to just buy a set also.
Quoted from xeneize:Luzur - I have always been down with purchasing a set if you have them made - I did like your hand-drawn version best!
Both of you are on the customer list, so you are set for one each, as soon as i get it done.
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Woolgoolga
Riverton, WY
