Very nice. I made damn sure my serial numbers were handled with care and not sanded away. They are matching and both still viable.

Since I started this I’ve also bought 2 more, which will get the same treatment I’m sure.

Here's my modified rusto/krylon female cap.

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Wonder if anyone has any ideas on a fault I have?

Game was re-setting all the time during gameplay - would go off and come back on again.

Bally 1981.

Then it decided to crash and not come back on again. Just a few p/f lights.

Friend has tested a lot and it has new Alltek plus new 5v board.

It seems that there may be a failing component on this board.

Any clues what it might be?

Lots of connectors have been checked/re-pinned.

Thanks

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What's a new 5v board? The board you pictured is where the +5v is derived, and it's not new. Did you mean the rectifier board?

At a minimum the actual power input/output connectors have not been repinned they are still the original IDC type. (unless they were repinned with IDC in which case I'd ask, why?).

The solenoid driver board is what you have pictured, and it looks original and has never been rebuilt. You won't know which way to go until you get a meter and start testing some things. Pinwiki's bally section is excellent in its procedure of following a known path, treat the game as "unknown condition, power up for the first time". You'll be taking a lot of connectors off and testing things in a methodical manner. Do NOT skip steps, even though there's a new board in place.

It might also be something odd like the slam switch is stuck. Also helps if you mention exactly which game it is other than 1981 bally.

Hi, it could be a lot of different things, which pin are we talking about, besides Bally 1981, how does the power supply board look, did your friend check the test points for correct voltages, the caps on your solenoid driver look original

Thanks - Skateball is the game.

Yes, new rectifier board.

I will print off the Pinwiki Bally section.

I can check the slam tilt switch tomorrow.

I figured it was a Skateball, after i checked out your profile, and it is a 1980 Bally pin, i owned two of them at one time, first check all your fuses on the rectifier, the fuse on the Solenoid driver board and the fuse under the playfield, then check all your voltage check points, does it try to boot when you turn it on, 7 flashes on the mpu or just a couple of GI lights when powered up, also try unplugging the coin door to see if it makes a difference, the harness sometimes shorts out from the door being opened and closed a couple hundred times, let us know how you make out

Btw,, check your fuses with the machine unplugged, digital voltmeter set to ohms, pop one side of each fuse out of its holder to check them

The Tech Charts at pinballrebel.com are incorrect for early Bally SS (-17 MPU) machines. For these chime games, they list boards more commonly found on games with electronic sound (-35 MPU).
My Eight Ball still has its AS-2815-14 Lamp Driver and AS-2815-16 Solenoid Driver boards. They work just fine.

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Hmm, I think I overlooked this as I did change the MPU number.
All the files for the MPU-17 are adjusted now.
It would have been nice if you had send me a PM or email.
Luckily I do a regular check of this club.

Peter
http:www.inkochnito.nl
If you like my work, please send me a donation via PayPal.

I was able to check fuses, tilt switch, and coin door.

No flashes, just the GI lights come on.

There is a very loud buzzing when the connector/wires are moved - bottom left in photo. J2.

Maybe just a different fault, not sure.

It will be a while before we go through the Pinwiki voltages though.

Thanks for the suggestions.
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Check the knocker and the coin lockout (both are on J2).
The knocker is in the cabinet and the coin lockout on the coin door.
Most of the time it is the coin lockout that is buzzing.

Peter
www.inkochnito.nl

Has anyone stenciled a Dolly cabinet? I can’t find an owners club and I’m looking for colors.

I think the pinky red is rubin red.
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Here is my dolly

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Well Hello Dolly! Sorry - couldn't resist. That cab looks super nice.

That’s a great looking paint job!

Did you use base coat clear coat? The artwork is different than the flyer. Definitely cool.

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I used auto 2 part clear.

working my way through some issues on a Rolling Stones and I found a clipped yellow wire on the memory coils for the 4 bank drop targets. I didn't even realize this game had them until I found the wire.

Anyway I re-soldered it, and now the coil locks on at power up. Obviously why it was clipped. It's pretty toasty. And it's just that 1 coil of the 4 of them where the power comes in.

Maybe I'm blind but I can't find the memory coils in the schematics online. I check all the transistors on the SDB, and they all read similar so I couldn't pin point it. Am I missing something?

Not familiar with this game but are those coils for drop targets ABCD? If so they are listed on the solenoid driver schematic.

J1-2 and 3
J5-14 and 8
Corresponds to Q1,2,11 and 16
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Check my Tech Chart for Rolling Stones.
https://www.pinballrebel.com/pinball/cards/Tech_Charts/Bally_Rolling_Stones_Tech_Chart.pdf

Peter
http://www.inkochnito.nl

Thanks guys, yes that would be Drop Target D. I was looking right at it the whole time thinking they would named something different. I was just going through the controlled lights and switches earlier and it didn't register in my brain. Found a coil chart on Pinwiki as well, which is super convenient.

Anyway it's been a while since I troubleshooted an old Bally. I ended up clipping the diode and putting a new 4004 on and replaced Q16, no change. It was late and I called it a night.

Flipped it on today to play a game and it’s blowing the playfield fuse now, with the memory coil bank disconnected. Looks like I have other things to track down, and I’m low on 1amp fuses. Ugh

If the fuse is blowing on power-up, you have a short from solenoid 43V to ground. So to save blowing any more fuses, find and remove the short circuit first.

saucer drop target is the culprit this time

Has anyone stenciled over gold metallic rustoleum speckling? My concern is the stencil might pull it up.

Replaced the diode. Blew again. Replaced the transistor and another new diode and its good.

So still trying to figure out that memory coil, and now a new issue of no sound...wee haha

Just got this super nice NOS Strikes and Spares playfield. Sadly the bottom portion has been exposed to water while it was stored in its shipping crate. At least that portion is hidden. Has some typical scuffs and scratches but much prefer it to CPR repro.

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The cabinet should sanded down completely to bare wood and as smooth as possible for the Pimps stencils to work properly. The few times I've had stencil fail was because I did not follow this advise.

Yup. worked just fine.

I used citrus strip to remove the original paint, filled and sanded as best I could, brushed on oil based rusto white, sanded, sprayed on rutso white, very light sand, speckled with my custom made cap, sprayed rusto black and red for my custom made stencils, 2 coats of rusto semi-matte clear.

It turned out awesome!

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This is a good point, I wasn’t thinking as much about bleed as ripping the speckles up.

If you're at all thinking of selling, can I have first dibs??

Im planning on getting it cleared by Kruzman and eventually putting it in my game... whenever I get through the mountains of other projects Ive got. Here it is next to my Flop Flop. The only 2 working pins in my collection lol

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Your FF needs some paint and inserts filled it looks like. That's how mine was when I got it too. I was going to just do the PF and ended up doing a complete restoration.

Yeah Flip Flop isnt a full resto, just a good condition original. Thats typically how I like them but I'll make an exception for Strikes and Spares since I happened to get a nice playfield for it.

Don’t the cupped inserts bother you? I have a Tropic Isle that’s next up. I can’t handle how the cupped inserts throw the ball around.

Nah not really. I just accept that games this old wont play perfect. Plus Im not a good player lol

Have a Seawitch ....the player displays show all digits correctly in test, but in attract mode every other digit is blank -- on all displays. Bad chip or connector issue?

Try clearing all memory/audit locations one at a time, the software will do strange stuff if garbage is present or high score not set.

Play a game to clear the last games scores and do as gdonovan says. Should clear up after that.

OK. Tried that, but now game (MPU) not booting. Just getting a flicker LED. I have 15.5V at TP3 on the power/rectifier board. Is that too high?

Looking for a wiring diagram or pictures for the back side of the rectifier board to a late model (1983) Bally Frontier.

I'll search the forums, there's got to be one out there somewhere, I have pictures but the wires are discolored.

TIA!

Pinwiki, bally/stern repair page 3.8.1 has a nice picture and wiring diagram for an AS 2518-18 rectifier board

NVM, I'm dumb. Found it on the Wikiwiki right after I posted this. Thanks!

You're very welcome and i am sure you're not dumb, we all make mistakes

Very excited about the last couple pickups. Bill Davis restored Voltan and a very nicely restored Viking!

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Neither one of those games surface all that often, especially in that condition! Nice....

I wasn’t planning on buying much this year, but I couldn’t help myself when I saw these up for sale.

Dolly fires wrong solenoids in test, all switches register correctly with none closed. I repinned sdb and mpu j4. It also fires all solenoids to start a game. All new boards. Any ideas?

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Is the MPU properly switch optioned for Dolly Parton?