Yes, RAM test was ok.

I’ve ordered a new ribbon cable. Will see if that does it.

I’ll see if I can post the RAM results later though.

Anyone have one of these plastics they’d like to sell?

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Finally planning to do an LED conversion. Any thoughts on best kits currently available? OCD boards necessary? Thank you in advance for thoughts and opinions.

I did the Comet kit with color matched bulbs. I did not do OCD only non-ghosting. I think it came out great. Not sure if OCD is really needed on this one YMMV.

If you need it, I have a spare 6264 I can send you. Just let me know and I'll pack it up and of course it's on me.

Good luck!

I did the same as simplepin and added the 3 spotlights from Comet. I did not install an OCD board on this one and am happy with the results.

Games that have dimming features absolutely require GIOCD. Considering this title doesn't dim, I'll just say this. It hurts nothing to add LED's. I am "OCD" and simply cannot tolerate the "hyper flash" LEDs cause. I've converted all my machines to LED and using both GIOCD and LEDOCD boards. I enjoy how color matching some bulbs to inserts really makes things pop. I enjoy being able to use the OCD boards software to customize how a bulb acts (rarely used) and I absolutely now enjoy the smooth transition that LED's do not natively offer.

That’s great to hear. It sounds like we have similar tastes and I will likely want to add both OCD boards. Thank you.

Just get all cool white bulbs (one of the few times I used coold white) those kits are silly IMHO.

Doesn't it dim when you lock the ball?

I previously had a Judge Dredd and added the GIOCD & LEDOCD boards. I noticed a big difference with that title, particularly the Black Out mode and some of the dimming used during the nuclear reactor and jackpot features. However, I do partly blame the boards for blowing some fuses regularly ( well that, and the Color DMD and Pinsound and led strips and spotlights and light up mods I had lol).

With WCS, I’m taking a more conservative approach (my wallet thanks me too) and so far I’ve only added some cosmetic mods and all LED’s. The only thing I’d like to add now is a Color DMD or Pin2DMD. However, I cannot argue that the smoothing of the LED’s with the OCD boards looks a lot more classy and yes, I am one of the weird people who used the OCD software (or drivers, I dunno?) to program my bulbs to act like Pinstadiums. I remember it went full blinding strobe lights during Move Your Car Jackpot.

To each their own, I think WCS can look better with OCD boards, but I don’t think it’s an essential game to have them on. The only dimming I can see on WCS is during ball lock and of course the full on GI flashing on/off during the final battle when Germany score a goal.

That’s my take. Still looking for Color DMD’s prices to go down! I live in Australia and they cost Topper money to bring them here!

I don’t but there are some places you can buy it:

https://www.pinballspareparts.com.au/31-1925-21.html

I’ve got both OCD boards installed and am very happy with them. There’s dimming on ball locks and assist shots. Certainly not essential but looks great.

Not sure if there is a general B/W club thread, so I'll try my luck here.

Have a WCS that the sound cuts out completely at certain points when in game. I had a few people tell me about the symptoms, but I hadn't witnessed it personally until last night.

Sorry this vague, but it seems like when you have 200K+ points and trigger a switch back by the soccer ball, it cuts out. Then when the player drains the ball, the sound comes back to normal. Witnessed it in a 2 player game last night.

I didn't really get a chance to look much at it last night but I have a feeling maybe a sound rom is the culprit. Anyone ever encounter anything like this?

The only thin remotely like this for me was on an NGG. Which is WPC95. Some random event would kill the sound. It would come back after that ball drained. Not sure what the issue was but it was on the AV board. AV board died and I replaced it. The issue hasn't happened since. When I get around to troubleshooting that board I may find the problem or I may not.

Yeah that definitely sounds similar.

Hello, I'm the latest addition to the club! Recently acquired a game that had seen better days, stored away for the past decade. Managed to convince the original owner to sell me the remaining pins.

Last night, I began the process of disassembling my World Cup Soccer pinball machine, capturing numerous pictures along the way. Excited about the prospect of restoring and bringing this game back to life!

JeffPinball

Hi looking for any fluttery flipper help. I’ve had a weak left flipper before and cleaned the optos and that did the trick. But that didn’t work this time, plus not only is it weak but it will sometimes flutter. I tried messing with the eos switch gap and it seemed to yield more/less flutter, but couldn’t find a sweet spot plus still weak left flipper. Not sure if a fuse starting to die on the flip trim is board in the backbox could possibly lead to this behavior? Thanks for any tips!

Something is preventing the high-power winding of your coil from energizing, only the low-power 'Hold' power is working. It could be the transistor or a broken winding on the coil. Time to get testing! https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php/Common_Flipper_Troubleshooting

I'm removing the Cliffy saucer hole protectors on my game because they just won't lay flat and wondered what the best thing is to use to get the rest of the adhesive off the playfield around those holes?

If this game is a keeper, Please do yourself a favor and grab the CPR mirrors backglass. It makes a huge difference. It’s even more drastic than the pictures. I am very pleased. First pic is the factory translite.

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The mirror effect is really cool, just wish whatever process is used to achieve it didn’t darken the artwork so much.

I think the contrast looks better. Think it was a lil too washed out looking before.

I had a mirror backglass on mine but it all bubbled up so now I have a printed Perspex backglass

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I'm looking at potentially removing the Cliffy's as well. Can I ask you how much work it took you to get them out? I've never really taken a playfield apart and I have to say that one or two of the saucer protectors seem to be buried enough that the job looks daunting.

I currently have my WCS playfield torn down to install cliffys and do some other clean up. It's a lot of parts but it's simple enough. Take pictures as you go. One thing I find helpful is that after removing ramps, plastics whatever is to put the washers and nuts back on the posts that they came off of. That way you don't lose them and you know where they go because they are still there. Wish I learned this earlier. So much easier than having a to go through pictures and riffle through a bowl of random nuts and washers.

It's a lot of things to remove, but as mentioned, it's straight forward enough. I also try and be pretty specific in keeping nuts and washers and spacers together with exactly the piece it came from. Sometimes even altering how a single washer might have been under a plastic instead of over it can affect the ball and cause hangups.

Go slow and be patient. Never force anything. If you have to really put some oomph behind getting something out, then you are probably not realizing another clip or fastener still needs to be removed. There is an order to things, but you don't really have to have it all listed and understood in advance. Just look, loosen and wiggle until you know you have the next piece free and ready to come out.

Pay attention to which sections have their own mini wiring harnesses as those will need to be disconnected underneath the playfield to allow you to pull them out. Make note of which hole those wires feed down into and how they are routed. You'll need to reverse things and put it back in the way it came out when you're ready. You will not need to desolder anything to get it out. Those wires and lights and switches were all given those quick connects for this reason. About the only exception I can think of is if you are doing pop bumper rebuilds, those wires that go to the bulbs in the middle have to be cut or desoldered. No quick connects with those unfortunately.

Some notes about WCS specifically, you'll need to remove the diverter arm from that top left position as it protrudes through each layer of plastic ramp. It wil just pull out from above (get that round plastic in the corner out of the way and also you probably need to move the clear plastic on the left ramp as it covers the tip of the diverter arm)... it will pull out from above only after you disconnect it at the coil underneath. Pay special attention to how that little linkage piece is oriented as well as the small spring and put it back in the same way. It can be clumsy getting it right, so try a few times if you have to. There is usually a tiny hex head stud thingy in that linkage that pinches the flat side of the diverter arm stem and holds it in place. Loosen that first to pull the arm out and it will all come apart. Put it back together in reverse of what you just did.

This isn't the easiest game to remove all the ramps, so if you get flustered, stop, post pics or questions and take a break while people give you suggestions. Along the lines of putting washers and nuts back on the posts they came from, I like to use the dining room table to literally place all items I take off the game in exactly the same spot as they were in the game. Then you don't lose track of anything. But you have to make sure you don't need the dining room table while you're working!! Can't rush this kind of thing. So find the space to work and allow yourself to not need to get it all done in one go. Last thing you want to do is have to rush and either throw it all loose into a box or break something trying to hurry. Good luck!

Digging into my machine and the Stamina, Strength, speed and goal 1-4 lights are out. Lamps are fine. Also, tv popper is not working. Has power going to it so not sure what may be the issue.

Check that traces on the lamp board are intact, swap the sockets around to verify the sockets are good, reseat the connectors on the lamp board and the backbox. I would start there.

I have a mirrored CPR backglass if anyone is looking for one let me know. I sold the game over 2 years ago, buyer didn't want the glass. $200 plus shipping
I will upload some photos when I get home.

Also look for cold solder joints on the header.

Here are some photos for anyone interested. It has one blemish on the upper left side on the back but the plastic frame should hide it on the game.

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I have an entire nos plastic set and a repro piece or two that I would sell for $180. Pm if interested

Hello everyone, is there any chance to change the rest position of the goalie ? Its so far on the right, so often the balls go into the goal when he is turned off.
thx in advance
Patrick

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I thinks that's standard - the goal shot shouldn't be completely unreachable when the goalie is still. Every WCS I've played was like this.

Agreed. And if you shoot the ball into the goal to start the game while it is lit, then shoot it into the goal again when it is unlit, it awards you a Striker hole award. At least the default settings do this.

Only one Striker award can be spotted by the unlit goal but it's an easy way to get the first one.

And yes, that's normal goalie position.

many thanks for your help guys

Wanted to give this most excellent colorization a bump as I have a few Pin2DMD's left from my most recent build. If anyone is interested please PM me, I can cover setup, activation, and color files along with power harness. Completely plug and play for $275 shipped.

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Please PM me if any interest, thanks!

Great video. Looks as good as Color DMD!