Bobby Orr's Power Play
Bally, 1978
Gilligan's Island
Bally, 1991
Space Jam
Sega, 1996Quoted from RightNut:I put down frisket. Cut out shapes to spray , and the stuff left most of the adhesive behind on the playfield. Which took like an hour to clean up. Ugh.
What am I doing wrong. Is this the wrong kind?[quoted image]
I've never seen that kind, but it might be old.
Usually, no residue is left behind at all.
Quoted from vid1900:I've never seen that kind, but it might be old.
Usually, no residue is left behind at all.
Yea. I've never seen it do that in any of the pictures I've seen folks post. It was almost like mylar removal. Sucks.
What kind does everyone use that doesn't suck?
Thanks for the info.
Quoted from pinballinreno:Rapid-prep is an awesome defense against "fish-eyes".
One of the problems with urethane paints is its inability to deal with oils and silicones.
ALL oils and silicones must be removed or the paint will run away from it and leave pock marks or fish eyes.
Rapid prep is commonly used by auto/body shops to chemically clean off imperfections of the surface before spraying modern paints.
Its popular because its non-toxic and you dont have to worry about hazmat disposal issues.
Its not an adhesion promoter per se, but it can perfect the surface over plastic inserts to get better adhesion.
https://www.amazon.com/RapidTac-Surface-Cleaner-Graphics-Sprayer/dp/B006RMQCFW/ref=asc_df_B006RMQCFW/
Does it matter what type of clear I get for this, any recommendations?
Quoted from Enochsmoken:Does it matter what type of clear I get for this, any recommendations?
Nope, its just a really good cleaner and works with any clear coat.
I use it to chemically remove wax and silicones and to remove or convert (encapsulate?) oils on plastic inserts.
It works VERY well.
Quoted from pinballinreno:Nope, its just a really good cleaner and works with any clear coat.
I use it to chemically remove wax and silicones and to remove or convert (encapsulate?) oils on plastic inserts.
It works VERY well.
I guess what I was looking for was a recommendation for a small amount of clear coat. I don't have any panting knowledge. Thanks
Quoted from Enochsmoken:I guess what I was looking for was a recommendation for a small amount of clear coat. I don't have any panting knowledge. Thanks
Diamond clear has small cans, and you can brush it on:
https://www.amazon.com/KBS-Coatings-50040-Headlight-Restore/dp/B00UDIZSP6/ref=asc_df_B00UDIZSP6/
SprayMAX P2K is in aerosol.
How much is a small amount?
Quoted from pinballinreno:Diamond clear has small cans, and you can brush it on:
https://www.amazon.com/KBS-Coatings-50040-Headlight-Restore/dp/B00UDIZSP6/ref=asc_df_B00UDIZSP6/
SprayMAX P2K is in aerosol.
How much is a small amount?
See the image, there are a couple of spots on the roll overs that need clear coat. They broke off when I was trying to remove the excess clear so the star would move.
IMG_3141 2 (resized).JPGQuoted from Enochsmoken:See the image, there are a couple of spots on the roll overs that need clear coat. They broke off when I was trying to remove the excess clear so the star would move.
[quoted image]
I would carefully brush on the Diamond Clear.
Unlike most (all) clear coats, it BONDS to existing clear.
Self leveling do a careful application and it wont need sanding or buffing.
I use it to "fix" chips and F#ck-ups. so far its been really great stuff.
It takes a long time to dry "FULLY" maybe 7 to 10 days.
It has no catalyst so it stays good in the can for a long time.
Quoted from RightNut:Dumb question. I’m sure it’s been covered. I put down frisket. Cut out shapes to spray , and the stuff left most of the adhesive behind on the playfield. Which took like an hour to clean up. Ugh.
What am I doing wrong. Is this the wrong kind?[quoted image]
I’ve just about given up on Frisket. Over tried every variety I can get hold of and they all leave residue behind now, which is a total deal breaker. When first started restoring pins back in 2017 I never had that problem, but it’s been worse and worse to the point where I’m seeking a replacement masking film. There are some automotive options that might do the trick. In a pinch, Oramask can be hand cut, but it’s better to put it down on a wet surface as its adhesive is more tenacious than you want, and can lift the clear. applied wet it will stay put but come back up very easily.
Frisket is, into me, no longer a usable product. It’s a real drag.
Quoted from sethbenjamin:I’ve just about given up on Frisket. Over tried every variety I can get hold of and they all leave residue behind now, which is a total deal breaker. When first started restoring pins back in 2017 I never had that problem, but it’s been worse and worse to the point where I’m seeking a replacement masking film. There are some automotive options that might do the trick. In a pinch, Oramask can be hand cut, but it’s better to put it down on a wet surface as its adhesive is more tenacious than you want, and can lift the clear. applied wet it will stay put but come back up very easily.
Frisket is, into me, no longer a usable product. It’s a real drag.
What is Mr. Hutchens using?
He buys it by the HUGE 4' roll....
Quoted from pinballinreno:I would carefully brush on the Diamond Clear.
Unlike most (all) clear coats, it BONDS to existing clear.
Self leveling do a careful application and it wont need sanding or buffing.
I use it to "fix" chips and F#ck-ups. so far its been really great stuff.
It takes a long time to dry "FULLY" maybe 7 to 10 days.
It has no catalyst so it stays good in the can for a long time.
The diamond clear link you sent me comes with KBS Klean, is that the same as rapid prep, do I need to buy the rapid prep also?
Quoted from Enochsmoken:The diamond clear link you sent me comes with KBS Klean, is that the same as rapid prep, do I need to buy the rapid prep also?
nah, its a great cleaner
Quoted from pinballinreno:nah, its a great cleaner
Cool, Thanks for all your help.
Quoted from pinballinreno:What is Mr. Hutchens using?
He buys it by the HUGE 4' roll....
I have been wanting to find out for a while.
I totally agree with his approach, cover *everything* when doing touch ups. I will admit to having thought I had everything masked off, only to have a little line of paint appear that I didn’t see until I clear coated, where the edge of my craft paper and masking tape hadn’t covered. Those big rolls allow you to just cover the playfield completely.
I thought I remembered him saying in a post that he didn’t want to tell everybody what he was using because it is in short supply and he was anxious about being able to get it. That may be old information (or a POV that came out of pandemic supply chain days, perhaps.)
In any case, I would like to switch to some version of what he’s been using. Making stencils with a vinyl cutter can be great, but often it’s still more efficient just to cut Frisket with a blade - as long as it comes off cleanly. There’s nothing worse than doing an elaborate and time consuming cutting job with the blade, only to have a bunch of adhesive come off the film, and find yourself trying to VERY GENTLY massage it off using a freaking Q-tip dipped in naptha. Rub too hard and you’ve erased your work. It also makes you feel like you should spray clear before going further with paint repairs, for fear that some next Frisket layer will deposit sticky on your prior paint apps. Thats no way to work.
I've got some inserts I want to reseat from an EM. They are a nice vintage cream colour. They are all a bit loose in the holes and if they sit at the bottom ridge they are a smidge too low.
What's the best way to reglue these level? Or should I replace with new even though the colour might not be the same.
These originals have straight sides, while new ones are tapered I think which would better fill the existing hole.
Quoted from dr_nybble:I've got some inserts I want to reseat from an EM. They are a nice vintage cream colour. They are all a bit loose in the holes and if they sit at the bottom ridge they are a smidge too low.
What's the best way to reglue these level? Or should I replace with new even though the colour might not be the same.
These originals have straight sides, while new ones are tapered I think which would better fill the existing hole.
Don't replace them
If they are really loose, buy "extra thick" epoxy
Hot glue a dowel on the insert with a tiny drop of glue, and use 3 round toothpicks around the face to wedge the insert so it doesn't sink below the playfield surface
Pull the toothpicks out once the epoxy sets, but is still semi-soft
Quoted from Enochsmoken:Does this plastic part fit into the pop bumper hole? The hole is too small, I gently filed it a little but still won't fit in. Help please. Thanks
[quoted image]
Yes it needs to fit in the hole.
Quoted from Enochsmoken:The hole is too small, I gently filed it a little but still won't fit in
Happens to me a lot with cleared playfields and new replacement pop bumper bases. I typically wind up taking a dremel to the pop bumper base and whittle away until it fits, albeit very snugly.
Quoted from psd4me:Yes it needs to fit in the hole.
What is the best way to enlarge the hole?
Drill but it's easier to mod the base and safer too.
You can also use a bit of force to press into the pf sometimes they snap in fine.
Quoted from Enochsmoken:Does this plastic part fit into the pop bumper hole? The hole is too small, I gently filed it a little but still won't fit in. Help please. Thanks
[quoted image]
Make sure the supports for the pop rings pass through the playfield as well. Sometimes they can be a bit too snug.
So I realize that I think I made a mistake on my playfield by not cleaning out all the wet sanding gunk in the holes before clearing the next coat.
I think I should be fine, it's just going to create extra work sanding it out when I go to repopulate.
My main question is going to be around the filled screw holes. Should I just treat them like divots on a new playfield and drill them out as if it was new? I've read vids "repopulate" thread where he talks about using Brad point bits for it.
PXL_20240404_002010342 (resized).jpgPXL_20240404_002101962 (resized).jpgQuoted from BMGfan:So I realize that I think I made a mistake on my playfield by not cleaning out all the wet sanding gunk in the holes before clearing the next coat.
I think I should be fine, it's just going to create extra work sanding it out when I go to repopulate.
My main question is going to be around the filled screw holes. Should I just treat them like divots on a new playfield and drill them out as if it was new? I've read vids "repopulate" thread where he talks about using Brad point bits for it.[quoted image][quoted image]
Usually that white stuff is crumbly and just cleans out with a quick poke of a screw or nail
Quoted from vid1900:Usually that white stuff is crumbly and just cleans out with a quick poke of a screw or nail
Even though I've sealed it in with a few coats of clear?
Quoted from BMGfan:Even though I've sealed it in with a few coats of clear?
I use a small hand held twist drill to clean out screw holes and low pressure air.
Quoted from gdonovan:I use a small hand held twist drill to clean out screw holes and low pressure air.
One should emphasize - LOW pressure air - . It is really nerve wrecking to lift the clear at that stage.
So, have a Stern Elvira I traded into. Previous owner didn't maintain as well as he should have (no wax and maybe original balls?), but what are my options?
Simply throw over some Mylar? Spray can lacquer? Figured that might not go too well on middle of the playfield. Or a complete tear down and auto finish at my cousins body shop?
Or am I just over reacting/too meticulous, shut up, and get to playing? 
Quoted from Jagrmaister:So, have a Stern Elvira I traded into. Previous owner didn't maintain as well as he should have (no wax and maybe original balls?), but what are my options?
Simply throw over some Mylar? Spray can lacquer? Figured that might not go too well on middle of the playfield. Or a complete tear down and auto finish at my cousins body shop?
Or am I just over reacting/too meticulous, shut up, and get to playing?
[quoted image]
Ugh.. this actually hurts my heart. I would never be able to afford a game like this and then someone who can, doesn’t take care of it? Wow. It’s a game that will forever be on my wishlist.
In regards to fixing it, you could put Mylar or a decal if someone makes it if you aren’t going to strip and repair it. That would keep it from getting worse. You could also probably find a new playfield easily as well.
Quoted from vid1900:Did someone brush on some kind of water based clear on that Elvira?
I don't think so. It does have a different feel to the clear. It's either etched from no wax/ original balls or... previous owner fumbled some crazy glue onto the playfield. He admired he applied it to the crypt sticker trying to reglue it. But could it trail that bad in the middle? Maybe the ball picked it up from the sticker then entered the VUK... spit out the ball and the crazy glue off to the races where it landed?
I dunno. It is the highest action of the playfield in the middle so either wear or crazy glue in a wild scenario.
Only has 1700 plays so I kinda haphazardly skipped a thorough check of the playfield. You wouldn't even really notice just staring down through the glass either. Have to be looking at the right angle kind of thing. Found out after getting home and cleaning it myself. Lesson learned! 
Quoted from vid1900:It looks flaky, can you get some pic at a lower angle?
All I have to say is THANK YOU, NOVUS!
Needed to try something not overly abrasive but that could still do a little work. I think this was legit super glue all over the playfield from when the previous owner attempted to reglue the lower skull sticker to the crypt.
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Sana'a
La Plata, MD
Ottawa, ON
Limassol