When I rebuild these boards I replace all the scanbe sockets even if the current machine doesn’t use them. You get a finished board that looks great and if you happen to want to install in a different machine with a different ROM configuration all the sockets are already done. The extra sockets don’t add much cost and it doesn’t take that much more time to do them.

If it isn’t used you don’t have to. For me I want the boards to look as good as they work and prefer the clean look of new sockets and keep the option open for easily using them if needed.

thanks Joe

that's what I'm leaning towards. Just snip it off and leave a small leg of the pin forever inside.

You dont see any issues with this...right?

Yeah.

Im on the fence...But you do make it sound more like the "right" way to do it.

Thanks Vid.

It seems like there's several ways to tackle this...

Does anyone see a problem with any of the ways i mentioned? Like, will it not work if i do it that way?

I would rather clip them than leave them open and sticking up on the board. The way they are more likely that someone with their hands in the backbox will bump them and start shorting address or data lines together. While easier to remove the way they are, my desoldering station has no issues pulling those through and dumping out later. To me just leaving those hanging is the least attractive option and has the highest risk.

thanks for all the input everyone

How about 5. Carefully put the old plastic cover back on?

lol...can you make a video of that? thats gotta be impossible

I pop the socket plastic covers off and back on all the time to inspect the pin receptors. Pretty easy really and per Mthomasslo is what I'd do in your case if you don't want to swap the whole socket.

Ok...my only concern is that many of the terminals got bent when removing. Would you still attempt after you bent them...i would try to bend them back first.

slightly different topic...while looking at at my ROM chips...(i have a time warp too like this thread) i have different chips.
Vids picture has the TIME WARP chip in the 3rd bay, to the right of the ROM 2 chip...and nothing in the above 3 bays.

Mine has nothing in the 3rd bay, to the right of the ROM 2 chip (thats actually the scanbe that i removed and left traces behind.)

I have chips in all the above 3 bays...and Vid has nothing in those.

any thoughts?

3 bay (resized).jpg

and the 40 pin female seems to be sold out at Mouser, digi key and Great Plains...and i cant find at Marco.

Any other suggestions? ( i thought i had already ordered it...but ordered 2 sets of male header pins

You can burn the game specific code into a single 2716. You do so by eliminating those three chips and inserting the 2716 into your currently empty socket location. (And on earlier board revisions, adding a jumper wire / cutting a trace)

Oh ok. that makes sense...Thanks!

So, was the 3 chips, like you see in mine, the original way? I've seen a few other pictures of the TIME WARP mpu and all have just one TW chip like Vid's.

As far as you can tell...does anything look wrong with mine? (I am still learning and havent even turned this game on yet)

After a second and third try...I did find these at marco...not the cheapest but they are in stock!

https://www.marcospecialties.com/control/keywordsearch?SEARCH_STRING=09+52+3102

I also use these:

https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Molex/09-48-2106?qs=%2Fha2pyFaduh2zXuEOO8%252b5zVUQ84FcTx6YYLJoZUWyfQ%3D

They do not have the stabalizing tabs, and are only rated for 4A instead of 4.5A. I have not had any issues using these are replacements. Once they are soldering into place, the stabalizing tabs aren't missed.

Just bend the receptors back to position and pop the cover back on.

To clarify: do you own a desoldering station?
If not, buy one today and discover how much easier it makes your life.
It seems to me that removing those old pins would be a 5 minute job using one. Then you can put in a new socket and have everything nice-nice. Or not, but have the peace of mind of knowing the old pins are out of the equation.

Aouye makes an absolutely solid desoldering station for under $150. My board guy turned me onto them, he’s got 2. I only do basic board repair but it’s indispensable. Also great for clearing away ugly solder work under the playfield - way more reliable than any solder sucker I’ve found, way faster and less heat than using copper braid. Requires only that you keep the tool maintained, but it’s really pretty simple.

hey guys. I have these boards out of a Firepower. I am looking for advice on if these are a good candidate for repairing or if I should just get a new combo board.

I do like the idea of restoring the original boards, and I can replace the components/connectors/sockets, I am just concerned about the condition of the boards. I don't have any experience with these.

Is it worth trying to save them?

Or are these particularly trashed?

PXL_20230716_200508141 (resized).jpg

PXL_20230716_200522876 (resized).jpg

PXL_20230716_200556910 (resized).jpg

PXL_20230716_200601305 (resized).jpg

PXL_20230716_200647261 (resized).jpg

PXL_20230716_200651820 (resized).jpg

What do you think is trashed on these boards? On my phone, but not seeing anything that would cause me to junk any of these boards. I've made far, far worse work again.

Thanks guys. I'll use the excellent guides here and elsewhere and give it a go!

Agreed, they look like they are in good shape with no major hacks. They should do great after some connector replacement and light component replacement. My only suggestion would be to get the additional solenoid saver board from Weebly. There is no protection on that driver board, a grounded coil or mishap with a tool while the game is on will blow a fuse and not your transistor.

https://nvram.weebly.com/wms-sss.html

Hi Vid, both of my System 6(Fire Power and Time Warp) do not have this cream colored cap in this section. Any idea?

Also I can not seem to find your post on bulletproofing the audio boards? New to this forum

My apologies Vid, I now recall reading the exact post, doh!

I still can't find the section on bulletproofing the audio cars though

What type of IC connector should I get to re -do on my Stellar Wars?

Screenshot_20231113-133225 (resized).png

Screenshot_20231113-133240 (resized).png

Either will work (appropriately sized of course) the strips have an advantage in that you can solder them top and bottom easily if needed (at the expense of making it harder in the future to remove). If you use the strips get something that is the correct size (ic chip) to hold it in place while you are soldering.

I used to use the strips all the time but now I just get the correct size socket, they're fine. I still have strip sockets for when I need to do something slightly different but regular socket replacement I just get the normal sockets.

the question is vague as you haven't given us much idea on exactly what you want to change?

also maybe better to move this thread to 'Tech Early Solid State' and not post on Vids Guide?

Question for the group. I’d it OK to replace a KBPC3501 with a KBPC3510 ?

Thanks.

max voltage 100v on the 01, 1000v on the 10.

ok to replace the 10 in place of the 01.

Reverse might not be true depending on what circuit it's in, but since everything in system 3-7 is < 100v except the displays, most good to go (and the displays are derived from +/- 90v, so they might even work there)

When buying bridges I check KBPC and GBPC 3501, 3502,3504, 3506, 3508, and GBPC3510. Go with whatever is best priced at the time. 3506 is 600v, 3508 is 800v and etc. I'd go with a voltage rating double of what the circuit is just to give you plenty of room.

Add a W to the end for wire leads. Otherwise they come with spade lugs. (W for bally, WMS used the spade lugs) They also come in two thickness. I only try and get the fatter ones.

GBPC are generally the black sides with the aluminum top. KBPC normally comes in the full metal case, but not always. Seems like the metal case ones would be better at heatsinking.

https://www.lcsc.com/product-detail/Bridge-Rectifiers_LGE-KBPC3504_C2940147.html
https://datasheet.lcsc.com/lcsc/2201121830_LGE-KBPC3504_C2940147.pdf

Greetings, folks!

First post, and I'm reviving a zombie thread item...

After many years of neglect, I'm going through my Black Knight and doing some bulletproofing/upgrades/recaps/etc. I'm doing the TIP42 swap, and am seeing references like this to a TIP41/2N6122 swap, and I have a question (the first of undoubtedly many).

If I'm doing the NPN swap (2N6122's, not TIP41) should I remove the 100 Ohm 3W resistors and replace with jumpers, or leave the resistors in place?

Rise from your grave, thread!

Quick question. I have a Blackout with the coin door lockout coil. Can I just simply clip the ground on it and disregard it (it's only for home play), or will that cause other coils in the series to have issues? If I'm correct, aren't all the coils wired in series on this game?

Coils are never connected in series (except for a few special situations for EM relays). I assume you're thinking about how the hot wires feeding the coils are often "daisy chained" together. If that's the case you're concerned about, you can always safely cut a coil (such as the coin lock-out) out of a circuit by clipping the wire off of the switched end (the coil terminal connected to the anode or non-banded end of the diode). If you cut the hot end, and there is more than one wire on that terminal, you will also disconnect anything else beyond the cut. Unless the game is on free-play, you will also need to remove or modify the lock-out linkage so the coins will not be blocked

I always remove the red wire pin from the coin door connector (7P2-3).
If you want to have the coin lockout functional again, you simply put the wire back in the connector.
The advantage is that you will not have a hot wire on the coin door.
And it is simple to do.

Thanks for the confirmation and for clearing up my choice of words. But yes, I meant the daisy chain effect. Great responses!