The PD-16 comes with = T4L250v (4amp / Slow Blow)

https://www.pinballlife.com/20mm-slow-blow-fuses.html

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Sorry to hear about the torn art blade. Pinball Life sells protectors to keep the art blades from being damaged when the playfield is lifted. These are for standard pinball cabinets, and can be trimmed to fit the TNA cabinet:
https://www.pinballlife.com/interior-cabinet-protector-blade-set.html?Category_Code=

If you want to replace the art blades, Pinball Life sells mirrored blades just for TNA:
https://www.pinballlife.com/total-nuclear-annihilation-meltdown-mirrors.html

If you want to replace the original torn art blade, send an email to Spooky and they should be able to get one for you.

I believe the fuses on the pd16 boards in the backbox are the 4amp version of these

https://www.pinballlife.com/20mm-slow-blow-fuses.html

-

https://www.amazon.com/T4AL250V-T4L250V-Cartridge-5X20mm-Slow-Blow/dp/B008QYHUOQ/ref=asc_df_B008QYHUOQ/

Thanks to namyzzo for documenting these in his manual

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Ugh, more issues with my recent acquisition. This time, it's the display. When I power the game on, the screen says No Signal for a few moments like normal, and then just goes dark.

As I've said previously, I'm pretty new at this and learning a ton as I go. Any suggestions on where to start troubleshooting this one?

..just curious - does the machine "boot up" and become active? - like does the Start Button flash "ready"?.. any playfield lights on..etc?

I know the boot screen is real fast normally - any brief flash of some "booting" text?

..maybe check voltage of the CMOS pill battery located on the SBC Up-Board computer in the backbox - when the machine is off. See if you get the 3v dc expected.

..maybe take the backglass off and take a short video and upload to youtube so we can see whats going on..

..just some curious questions to get the ball rolling.. haha..

Thank you for your response. Did some digging and some extra troubleshooting with the help of a friend of mine:

Machine lights come on right away, but remain static the whole time. Start button does not light up. The display comes on with the No Signal, then goes dark. No boot screen.

Went to do this, but I wasn't sure how to unmount the battery in order to test it. And my friend hadn't ever seen a battery mounted like that, either. I included a picture. With that heat shrink on it, what's the best way to remove it? Since I don't know how it's actually mounted, I didn't want to break something haha

Here's a quick video I took:

And another with the display on. It also shows what happens with the playfield lights:

I also plugged the HDMI cable into a laptop to ensure the display is definitely working. I also switched those USB cables into the other ports just to try and rule out faulty ports.

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Went to do this, but I wasn't sure how to unmount the battery in order to test it. And my friend hadn't ever seen a battery mounted like that, either. I included a picture. With that heat shrink on it, what's the best way to remove it? Since I don't know how it's actually mounted, I didn't want to break something haha

[quoted image]

The 5v battery (cr2032) encased is usually adhesive backed and can be carefully lifted off the surface. The ~ 4" wire lead has a very small female connector onto the circuit board. With the game energized, Be careful when separating the connector to avoid lifting the male segment. You can test battery voltage once unplugged with voltage/multimeter.

Given the value of these great games, I change my batteries every 2 years. Good luck with your game.

Got it working. I actually found an old post here with a similar issue and Scott recommended power cycling the PC. That's all it took. All fixed.

Thanks everyone for the suggestions

EDIT: for clarity in case someone finds this post in the future - There is a very small button by the DC barrel plug on the right side of the SBC. Press that button while the machine is powered on to power cycle. That immediately fixed my issue.

..was that done by pressing the power button on the SBC? while the game was powered on or off?

or?
..just curious

I didn't even think to use that button - I figured a power cycle of the complete machine would do the same thing. Scott's "kung-fu is strong" = I'm glad he is on here.

(I see the battery is 2017 - doin pretty good!)

Thank You for posting the videos - so we could see what the boards were doing and how the playfield was lit up.... and letting us know what the fix was.!!

Yep, exactly. It was done while the game was powered on. After pressing it, the display went straight to the boot screen and loaded with no issues. Played a couple games, and everything seems great. Except my skills. Those are still sorely lacking.

If anyone has a TNA and wants to make a trade for my beautiful TX-Sector, or knows someone... shoot me a PM! TX and I will be at the Allentown show in May if that makes logistics easier.

I appreciate these photos! Thanks to your labeling, I realized there should actually be THREE ribbon cables connecting to that board, so I opened 'er back up and lo and behold, ribbon cable #3 had come off completely and was hanging out down below! A quick re-attachment and everything was hunky-dory.

As for those mirror blades... they look like they'd make a delightful addition to the inside of the cabinet (maybe along with some of those side protectors Macman mentioned a few posts above).

Why do I love this game? Ive never beaten it but this morning I got to reactor 6 on ball one and had 2 extra balls. I then proceeded to drain every ball and didn't even get to 7. Maybe I just get too excited. I swear it feels like the game knows your doing good and decides to fight back.

TheNoTrashCougar
Hi Scott - Is there a possibility of turning the flipper power down further than 20 please

I’m running precision flippers and i’m having issues with the keypad targets. They are responding perfect but if the ball is travelling too fast it will not register and on a game, for example i can hit the centre several times and it will not register

I do have a vid to show everything is working and also when it isn’t if that helps ?

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/total-nuclear-annihilation-cluball-welcome/page/213#post-7457662

I've officially owned my TNA CE for an entire year now, what a journey! My personal best is reactor #7, still haven't progressed past that yet, but it is only a matter of time In the past year I've played a LOT of pinball on location in Portland, Oregon and TNA is frequently mentioned as a favorite. People love love love this game!

When I was deciding what my first game was going to be, I saw a lot of Pinsiders cautioning against TNA because of "shallow code". You should not buy a Spooky, they are a pain to maintain, always go with a Stern Pro since they work right out of the box.

I am so glad I ignored that advice! Yes I've had to work on my game, but I've learned a lot and found I quite enjoy the problem solving process. My TNA CE plays spectacularly now... I doubt it will ever leave my collection. My only regret is not springing for that sweet butter cabinet.

My next pinball project is fully restoring a Black Hole... System 80 games are no joke, but a lot of fun to learn about!

+1. I just hit my 1 year mark a couple months ago and did a similar write up. First NIB game, 0 issues. I was only into pinball for 1 month and only played a Bally lost world when I played my first newer type game and it was a TNA. Called them on my way home and they had 2 in stock. I’ve had 38 since then, and TNA is not going anywhere.

..been pretty quiet in here - which is a good thing

Just thought I would share this - as a reminder to check thoroughly when troubleshooting.

A week or so ago I was not having any problems, but wanted to see what USB ports on the SBC were connected to which component (P3-Roc cable, Service/Audit coin door cable and Scoreboard cable).

I thought I would just kinda follow the cables through the loop in the backbox - with a little pull here and a little pull there = but to my surprise one of them wasn't moving... WTF ?

Appears someone needs to back down there 3/4" impact - just a little bit.. LOL .. I Haven't booted up the machine since seeing this - so I hope it's ok. Probably should find a replacement before I boot it up since it is the one that goes to the P3-Roc board ..

AJ @ Sp00ky had just sent me all the Coms cables used on the TNA that I was wanting for a project = so All is forgiven

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Hoping someone can help troubleshoot this:

My TNA CE stopped ejecting balls into the shooter lane.

Both lower flippers are also not responding. Reactor flipper still works.

When I start the game it just goes into a ball search.

Nothing loose or unplugged under the playfield. Only changes I've made to the game recently are: adding an HDMI audio extractor to fix the static buzz from speakers, and adding spacers to the roll over switches to help with balls getting stuck.

I have a ticket in with Spooky but figured I'd ask here as well.

I'm not familiar with which coils are on what line, but have you checked for any blown fuses?

Yeah I'd check fuses first. Then I'd check if a wire broke off one of the lugs on a coil connected to (same power line) the flipper coils.

Cleaned optos. Checked clearances….

Suggestions?

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..just throwing this out there..

Can you enter the service mode and test the components - without it trying to "ball search"? = If so, I'd run some tests to confirm/deny a complete issue with components on the "upper" pd16 board. And switch tests if applicable (can't remember if the opto's have a test in the menu)..

The ball Searching - wonder if it's because the trough kickout is not working and the opto says there is a jam..?.. Is it just the Danesi ball lock searching - or do the scoops activate as well (just curious)..
???.. The trough "ball jam" or ball lock opto's faulty/blocked/mis-aligned or not getting good power connection?... Ball missing/not hitting the switch properly in the ball trough/bad switch or wire connection on one of the DB5 trough switches. SW16#2 has some to do with that area = might check connections there as well..??

The upper flipper is working - so PD#16-"lower" 48Vdc is ok..

Lower flippers not working = pd#16 "upper" fuse/power issue on that side of the board?
Trough Kickout/ball eject not working = pd#16 "upper" fuse/power issue on that side of the board?
..if service/diag menu reveals other components on this side of the board not working (lower slings & autolaunch) = check fuse on that side, ensure incoming power with a volt meter and exiting power on J4 (48v)....etc (see diagrams)

again - just some random thoughts.. Hopefully Sp00ky gets back to you soon..

PLEASE - keep us informed.!. (might help one of us in the future)..

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whoah -

Can you run some tests in the Service/Diag menu? - how does it react.?? - maybe get you closer to whats going on (binding, mechanical switch, opto or opto power.??)

Hopefully Scott will pop-in with the answer.

Keep us informed - please!

That happens when the game thinks a ball is in the right scoop and cannot eject it. It cannot eject because of a few reasons....

1. The coil is unable to fire due to a broken wire or general coil failure. A ball would be actually in there if this was the case.
2. The right scoop opto is off because of a wire or connector issue (most likely).
3. The drop targets are physically unable to drop themselves. The scoop will not fire if a drop is up.
4. The drop thinks the drops are up when they are not due to a drop down switch error.

You need to go in the service menu and do some general switch testing. After you figure out which switch or opto is not functioning correctly, you can fix it. If it is an opto, cleaning them is not usually the issue. You will need to repin the connectors powering that opto as the IDC connectors are known to be flaky.

Post back when you figure it out! Thanks,
--Scott

Looking to get back in the club, 3rd times a charm I guess, so if you are looking to sell and somewhat local (3 to 4 hour drive), just reach out if my Wanted ad still exists.

Thanks for any help.

(no emoji for "mind blown")

..I didn't even think about half of that or whats going on behind the scenes.

>Code to prevent the ball from whacking the drop target - when it is up!!. Seeing that, would be an experience for sure.. WhAcK...

It's not too exciting, it just flings the ball back into the scoop. Yeah... There are tons of functions that monitor everything going on in the machine at all times. Remember the machine does not have eyes, it only has switches to tell what is going on around it. THere are definitely lots of switches though.
--Scott

Hot Glue doesnt hold forever. Reseat the opto sensors on the opto board. Seems to have fixed the problem. Ill play more tonight.

Those connectors are likely failing. Reseating may only fix temporarily.
--Scott

It was a blown fuse in the backbox. Replaced and everything is back online.

I’m having trouble with the auto plunger assembly again. Spooky sent a new one under warranty when the weld loosened up on the pivot shaft. Now the new one they sent is also starting to loosen and wobble.
I don’t have a welder, so are there other options?
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If you just want that spot welded, take it to an exhaust shop.

Yah - grind/file - prep it if you can.. Remove plunger so no "dingle berry's" get on it = then take to exhaust shop like Kolk1 suggested.. (or driveshaft shop, or?? - got to be somewhere close to you that will do it - probably for free and bragging rights on how good they can weld )..

https://clips.twitch.tv/InspiringTenaciousCodDuDudu-PAe9zRHtSytj64gT

I was steaming TNA a couple days ago and the game lost count of the balls. This happens about once in 50 mulitballs, so not that common but it does happen. Frustrating when you are further into the game. Suggestions?

Has anyone had to rebuild their stand up targets for the grid?

I discovered one of mine was falling to pieces. They seem to be riveted together and both the brass heads have come off. I discovered the back piece with the foam lying on the bottom of the cabinet.

Anyone had any luck fixing these?
Or is this the replacement ? https://www.pinballlife.com/williamsbally-round-stand-up-targets.html

I was going to see if I could find a fine enough, long enough machine screw and lock nut, but I guess they use this design for a reason and a nut will come loose.

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I ordered those the other day. I have not installed one yet - but here are a few pics of that part# - if you want to compare.. (they came with Diode's installed - pics show them removed)..
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Thanks for the pic, the measurement is exactly what I needed to check.

Yes you need to find a welder somehow. I welded mine several times before releasing i can’t file it too smooth. I got a replacement from spooky and welded it straightaway but this time left the weld showing and just took the roughness off it ( i am not a welder fyi )

The wife and I just finished our garage conversion semi dedicated to the hobby. Took us 3 months but we are really enjoying it now.

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Nice Line up

Thank you. Like everyone else, I swore I would only need "1". LOL

Hey all, one of my cracked CORE lane guides exploded the other day and I need to order a replacement. I think I found the correct part on Pinball Life but I'd like to confirm here first before ordering: https://www.pinballlife.com/1-14-translucent-double-sided-lane-guide.html

Yes, that is the correct part.

Thank you!

Leaving the club here. Game just wasn't for me, although it's fun and beautiful.

Straight swap on an LOV limited, I've been interested in one of these since i saw them.

Losing a couple of K, but hell it's pinball.

Have both of them- quite different and keeping both for now.

TNA excels with music, lighting effects, sound, and a great co-op mode (this game seems to be designed for co-op).

LOV- great shooting game with mature and fun code. Shoot up the middle, then hit the spinner (build up Thor’s hammer) and then hit the ship with the upper flipper- such a great satisfying combo. Recently I played this in league- all of us were sucking, but I did manage to get Thor’s hammer to 100% on last ball, went for the mode shot(s), almost drained, but finally hit one and hit the “action” button- immediately went from fourth to first (yeah we really sucked…) and the rest of the group were shaking their heads, “WTF?!”. “How did you do that?!”. Very, very satisfying.

To me TNA is the ultimate co-op party game with straight forward easy to grasp code.

LOV is a fabulous mode based fun shooting game where you better know the code/rules.

Enjoy!

With all your tourneys you have, I’d assume that TNA would have been a star in there for you.

I bought it as i played it at pinfest and enjoyed it, but just 1 objective is not my cup of tea. Didn't seem very popular with the other players either, even though i see reports here of people loving it. Noone ever told me it was their favourite game here.

Cheers for the review mate, it's on it's way to me this week sometime and TNA is already with it's new owner in Sydney. Looking forward to the new game.

Usually we play co-op when we have 4 players, but last night we dabbled with 2 vs 2 for the first time. What a blast! I feel like we all shot better than usual because of the competitive element.

Even with "one objective" this game has yet to stale after 18 months for me.

I recently joined the club. My family and I are loving the game. I only have a couple of minor issues that I need to fix. There's a minor issue with a drop target causing it to not drop when signaled. It's metal fatigue, I'm guessing, since it won't hold its position for long after adjusting. I have parts to fix it on the way from PBL though so I'll swap it out and do the frosted drop target plus lighting mod at the same time. I can't wait to get it up and running consistently. I think I'll also have to replace the noisy fan.

I have a couple of questions.

1) When the machine is on, there is a constant repeating beep ... beep ... beep ... coming from the cabinet. It can't be heard over the music, but it is noticeable when idle. Is that normal?

2) There are a few spots where a small portion of the clear protective coating over the cabinet and back box art are coming lose. There's also a pair of spots on the art blades where the clear coating is torn off but the decal is fine. Any good suggestions on how to stick that clear layer back down? Or hide where it was torn off? Any glue or sealer used would have to be crystal clear.