According to all the flyers, they changed to full rib at Whirlind (1990). Previous games are all 1/2 rib.

rd

My System 11 game --start edit (its a System 9 game--the System 11 wannabe) end edit-- has the early Williams coin door (the stainless steel door). The coin door flap (P/N WLL-1A3508) is out-of-stock everywhere and missing on a lot of doors. Anyone have any ideas...

- where to get one
- how to make one
- how to have it reproduced
- a substitute that could be made to fit

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The system 9 games with the old style coin door omitted the flap.

I didn't know that. Maybe that's why they're so hard to find. I still would like to find a coin return flap for a coin door/dispenser I made using the old SS door. The flap would help keep the coins from shooting out the return cup.

I noticed that Comet and Sorcerer didn't use that door either.

Added a nice Space Station to collection that already had a NOS Playfield installed that looks great.
Had to let Rollergames go to fit it in but a system 11 for another system 11 is still a good trade.

I'll probably try my first LED OCD in this, it does a lot of fading and want to see how the do in person.

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Anyone looking for system 11’s? Looking to sell my Big Guns and possibly Mousin Around.

Chris

I might be Chris what condition? Text me.

I put an LED OCD in my Mousin Around and love it. Such a great “device.”

I want to replace by two bridge rectifiers in the backbox. I ordered 2 Williams bridge rectifiers from Pinball Life. The instructions say to use the same screw to attach it to the back box (easy enough) and then said to move the 4 wires from the old part to the new board. It says to make sure to put them in the right position. How do I know that the one in the top left on the old is equal to the top left on the new part?

https://www.pinballlife.com/williams-fused-backbox-bridge-rectifier.html

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A bridge rectifier has two AC terminals and two DC terminals (positive and negative). On the side of each bridge there are two labels: AC and a plus sign. The other AC lead is diagonal to the AC labeled lead and the DC negative lead is diagonal to the DC positive labeled lead.

Looking at the photo of the original bridges, the DC positive terminal is the one on the top left. Notice that terminal is horizontal while the other three are vertical. Without looking for a label, the one terminal that is oriented differently from the others is dc positive terminal.

Looking at the new rectifier, the DC positive terminal is the top right. So, just rotate your new rectifier counter clockwise a quarter turn. Then connect away.

The top bridge rectifier has 2 red wires (AC wires). Orange wire is DC positive and black wire is DC negative.

The bottom bridge rectifier has 2 blue wires (AC wires). Purple wire is the DC positive wire and the black wire is the DC negative wire.

For those that may not have been following my thread, I successfully resurrected Swords of Fury serial 211 from its bucket of parts of 16 years. With the NOS playfield and translite, it looks brand new!

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LIONMAN! That's amazing. I miss mine.

I recently picked up a Pinbot project and now that I've gotten into it I've realized some of the wiring harnesses has been cut out. I've found a wiring harness for Fire on eBay. Both are system 11A games. Would this harness work in Pinbot? I'm gonna look at the wiring diagrams for both. Does anyone make new system 11 wiring harnesses?

What part is cut out? Solenoids, switches, or lamps? Or is it simply the GI? If it’s the GI, what likely happened is that the playfield had stapled wire braid that was not actually apart of the harness and will need to be remade

Honestly I'm not sure entirely sure. Looks like maybe some of the wiring between the transformer and the power supply as well as maybe the light matrix (blue and black wires). The game is at a friend's house currently who is helping me put the game back together. Unfortunately we live an hour apart. He's going to look at it more indepth in the next few days and I'm going to go through it all will him this weekend. Looks like the manual is very thorough so I'm thinking we can rebuild whatever is missing, just gonna take some time.

We also noticed that I might be missing 2 flasher resistor boards for the topper but the manual has no mention of the topper. Where can I find information on the topper wiring?

The good news is if it’s inside the cabinet and not apart of the playfield, it’s easy to make yourself. Controlled Lamp wires for the playfield for this era are generally yellow-x and red-x, switches are generally white-x and green-x, solenoids will be colors such as VIO-x, blue-x, orange, red etc. it sounds like you may have missing wires from the transformer secondary or possibly coils. Detailed pictures would help. I don’t have a Pinbot currently but I will see what I can find on the topper.

It bugs me more the harness is from (I think) a comet. Some wires I confirmed don’t match. Yes we are missing about 4-5 plugs. Missing the complete 2 harnesses coming off the transformer (flat 4 is simple to replace). Also the extra harness from comet is still stitched together with part of a harness I don’t need, so I need to remove that. I know we can fix it, just going to need some new connectors, and stare a wiring diagram a lot. Just caught me off guard when ever I went down there to just redo the rectifier wires, replace that plug, and add in the 2 new fuses. lol so I still need to check, some of the cut stuff we might not need since we have extra harnesses. Yellow flat 4 on the floor doesn’t fit transformer.

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Yes, those would be easier/cheaper to make yourself. You’ll need a crimp tool capable of handling .93 and .156 crimp pins. And various size molex housings. If I were you, I’d make the obvious ones like the general illumination (yellow wire). And get photos of the connectors you aren’t sure about from the Pinbot club (or you could look at the owners manual and search for the wire colors which would tell you their location and pin position). Wirebot on here or Marco has a good selection of most of these wires (18 awg would be the correct size for these locations)

Oh Ive repinned a lot of games. That part doesn’t bother me. It just bugs me that even the half of the harness I do have, might be pinned wrong for this game. So every single wire might have to be redone (probably not even half I bet).

Besides that, this will be the first time I’ve had to deal with this style of connector, instead of crimping on new pins, this is the type that slices into the insulation like a t-tap almost.

Oh and Alex found Marco sells all the color combo wires, so we might try and make a decent stab at actually using the correct color wires for most of them. Unless it’s just a 2-4inch extension, those don’t really need to be color matched, but if it’s longer than that and gets zip tied into the main harness, they need to be color matched if possible.

You are able to use molex vs IDC (factory). This is recommended if you are doing them anyways

You’ll just need to y splice the loops.

Anyone looking for System 11's? I have a really nice Big Guns and a nice Mousin' Around for sale near Allentown, PA. Would make a good deal if you got both

Would also trade toward a higher level system 11 machine (I already have Whirlwind and Earthshaker).

Chris

Big Guns is spoken for, so I added another System 11 to the mix today

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Sweet! Buying and selling boosts the System11 economy. Bless your heart.

Congrats Chris. I keep trying to buy one of those games. Also I love this long time (pictured) and have a proof rolled up just like it waiting to be framed and hung. Your game room is solid buddy.

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BK2K is the best system 11!!!

Great choice!

Does anyone have a parts diagram for pinbot slingshots??

Need part numbers

You can find the parts diagrams here, Williams/Bally Parts Manuals

https://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Store_Code=PP&Screen=BOOK

Thanks! I've had that Alice in Wonderland print for years now. It's signed and numbered but I don't recall what number it is. Will be interesting to see what comes of the new game if it makes it to production. The Bally era prototype of AIW looked pretty neat to me.

Chris

Another pinsider sold me his artist proof recently, I had to have it after seeing that whitewood mock up. If they made it anything like that I'd order in 2 seconds. Lol

WOW. WHAT a resource.

THANK YOU!!!

How does one tighten the pivot point on a slingshot arm? Is there a way to tighten if it’s too sloppy?

Best to replace both parts. Over the years they get hollowed out pretty good. And while doing that, I install a new plunger too. It makes a noticeable difference.

I need to look into that. My High Speed seems to have some weak sling shots.

The rivet post that the plunger goes on is another common failure and not well noticed until you have it apart in your hands. And of course a new coil sleeve while you're there. For a new playfield swap I add new spring and clips as they're cheap.

Hard to find the replacement plunger and link and if you can, they are like $35 each.

My pinbot slings are feeble. Like crappy power to them.

EDIT: locating some parts. What are the most effective parts to replace for increasing slingshot performance?
I can’t find the activator switch either. Scoring switch yes. But the other one nope

Yep. My pinbot and rk slings are just weak. Not snappy like the other games.

You see this? https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/dutch-pinball-alice-in-wonderland-hype-thread

Guys: is the blue manual printable from the planetary website? Or is it purposely locked somehow for printing?

I don’t think they’re printable on planetary’s site. I’ll send you a PM.

IIRC I found online a tool to convert the file from flash player to some other printable format

Have had High Speed and Earthshaker.

Currently have Taxi and Whirlwind.

High Speed went away when I picked up The Getaway. (Space limited here. Aren't we all?)

Man. Just rebuilt pinbot slings.

The plunger assembly’s link (blue piece) seems just a hair too fat, so it impedes movement where it attaches to the kicker arm! Same part number I replaced it with, so I know it’s correct.

I dabbed a little wd40 on it, and am trying to move it a bunch to workk it in. Hoping that helps.

Anyone run into this?

May be the same part number but was it an original part or a reproduction? If it is too wide then you may need to make some adjustments to that part. As far as WD40 that may do more harm than good in the long run. I would keep WD40 away from the game.

Was literally just a drop or two.

So I believe it’s a reproduction as the link is blue and the original is that brown color.

You can download most manual stuff free from IPDB.

rd

Is the blue manual up there? I didn't find it if so. It'd be nice to have a copy - I agree.

You can find some of them on PinWiki https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#Parts_Catalogs