Star Trek: The Next Generation
Williams, 1993I want to have a reversible, clean tie back. I would like to keep the existing wire in place and simply have a couple passthrough connectors from J4 to J107. The problem is I'm not able to find any appropriate 6-position nor 7-position Molex-style locking passthrough connectors and adapters. I would like the end result to look similar to the power cable on the ColorDMD LED.
Does anyone have any part numbers through Mouser or DigiKey? Thanks!
Screenshot 2024-02-27 22.46.41 (resized).pnghttps://www.pinballlife.com/100-idc-7-position-connector-for-22-gauge-wire.html
search for IDC (insulation displacement) connectors. You don't install pins into these you punch them down. Personally I'd just build what you want out of discrete wires and crimp two into one (and hope I don't trigger the people that say you shouldn't do this..... to those people, just relax, ok? People can always do the Y split with solder, sheesh) for the pass through part.
Since the goal of the tie back is to ensure you have that voltage at the 8 driver board, I wouldn't want to use something like IDC where the connections can be iffy. The punch down of the wire can be a little tricky, they do end up being solid for many years when done correctly.
Why do you want it reversible? Are you leaving the original factory method in place as well and this is just the insurance policy?
Thanks for the link. Yes, I was going to leave the factory tie back in place. I can just as easily slap on a couple 3-conductor lever nuts, but I want it reversible because I feel like as a collector I have a duty to preserve the original design, whatever its flaws.
Wirebot could probably make this for you...
Personally, I'd want it made out of crimp-and-stuff connectors with Trifurcon instead of IDC.
While IDC connectors handle the same amount of current, crimp-and-stuff Trifurcon connectors are better in high vibration environments, and pinballs are almost the definition of a high vibration environment.
I approve of your desire to have any changes be reversible, to be able to restore the game to factory if that is later desired.
I am also reading that diodes can be soldered directly onto the coils with the diode stripe touching the larger, positive voltage wire(s). This also doesn't appear to involve cutting wires so is also reversible. Does anyone know what type of diodes this would require and have a picture of the installation?
Quoted from siddhartha:I can just as easily slap on a couple 3-conductor lever nuts, but I want it reversible because I feel like as a collector I have a duty to preserve the original design, whatever its flaws.
I have a reversible solution (tap or intercept boards). See https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/dumbass-test-and-reproduction-pcbs/page/13#post-6637329 if you are interested. They are not as cheap as IDC with a "Z" header. If $ is your concern then get the required "Z" headers and just make your cables. You are correct in that you only need to connect J107-1 to J4-1.
Quoted from PinRetail:I approve of your desire to have any changes be reversible, to be able to restore the game to factory if that is later desired.
This is the reason why I created the reversible solution I have available.
Quoted from siddhartha:I am also reading that diodes can be soldered directly onto the coils with the diode stripe touching the larger, positive voltage wire(s). This also doesn't appear to involve cutting wires so is also reversible. Does anyone know what type of diodes this would require and have a picture of the installation?
You can do this. It can be considered reversible. It also has one potential problem. If someone decides to disconnect the wiring from the solenoid, there is a risk that the wires will be reconnected incorrectly. This will cause a direct short across the solenoid and blow the drive transistor. It's also NOT factory.
Quoted from DumbAss:You can do this. It can be considered reversible. It also has one potential problem. If someone decides to disconnect the wiring from the solenoid, there is a risk that the wires will be reconnected incorrectly. This will cause a direct short across the solenoid and blow the drive transistor. It's also NOT factory.
Can I just solder a 1N4007 diode across the coil terminals with the diode stripe on the positive voltage (larger wire) side?
Quoted from siddhartha:Can I just solder a 1N4007 diode across the coil terminals with the diode stripe on the positive voltage (larger wire) side?
Quoted from DumbAss:You can do this. It's also NOT factory.
Quoted from PinRetail:Wirebot could probably make this for you...
Personally, I'd want it made out of crimp-and-stuff connectors with Trifurcon instead of IDC.
While IDC connectors handle the same amount of current, crimp-and-stuff Trifurcon connectors are better in high vibration environments, and pinballs are almost the definition of a high vibration environment.
I approve of your desire to have any changes be reversible, to be able to restore the game to factory if that is later desired.
I went ahead and contacted John at Wirebot and he made the cable for me. What a great suggestion, thanks! If I were to have it made again I'd go a foot shorter, but that's my own overly safe measuring. All the wire colours match too!
Quoted from siddhartha:I went ahead and contacted John at Wirebot and he made the cable for me. What a great suggestion, thanks! If I were to have it made again I'd go a foot shorter, but that's my own overly safe measuring. All the wire colours match too!
Quoted from PinFever:how much ? And I would like to get one . Part # or one off?
You can mention invoice WB-1689. It was $10 plus shipping. You might need your own 7-P Z-header. You'll have to snip one of those pins off (pin 3). I would make the longest part of the cable 2 feet and not 3 feet like I had it. Match up the red wire of the 3-P connector to pin 1 of J108.
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