Can you remake the broken switches with parts from here?
https://www.pbresource.com/pfswitch.htm#common

the EOS switches on these score reels aren't too important assuming the switch is open. If the end of the blade broke so the switch can't open, that would be a problem.

worse case when one is broken open is the game may not score if the scoring switch activation was really brief.

check the backglass for where the ball in play lights are ... they aren't always in order left-to-right.

I'd get all the stepper units behaving first. If you have the game in an odd state that isn't normally possible, you may spend a bunch of time chasing things that aren't problems. e.g. a ball sitting in the outhole may power the outhole relay, which will turn on the score motor on and if it stays running, the down post coil will keep firing.

depending on what "all the kickers" means, there may be an explanation or you may have stuck switches or a short.

I learned that the same way you just did

if you need to replace the switches, I don't think any of the parts suppliers have them premade. Part number is sw-2u-12. I'd need to look at some at the pacific pinball museum on monday to see if the generic switch blades/contacts can be made to work.

I'm not sure what "kickers" means. Williams usually called the slingshot kickers ... kickers.

if you mean the eject holes at the top of the playfield, then yup, if the score motor keeps running those will keep firing when the outhole relay is powered if the bonus unit is stuck at reset.

what's supposed to happen when the bonus unit is reset and the ball is in the outhole is the score motor runs and steps up the bonus unit once. The ball should also kick over to the shooter.

when you turn the game on the game over relay is supposed to trip (if not already tripped), and that should prevent the outhole relay from powering. This should happen before you do something to cause the lock relay to power, like hitting the left flipper button or coin/crediting the game.

sounds like the game over relay is not tripping when it should so you get odd behavior when turning on the game.

the bonus unit has "pin switches" that poke out over the metal ratchet/gear and get shoved by a peg when the bonus unit is reset and not reset. Make sure the switch works right and the blade is hitting the nylon sleeve on the peg, not the metal top of the peg.

the slingshots are the kicking arms under the plastics just above the flippers. If those are firing you probably have multiple issues.

the two holes at the top of the playfield williams calls "eject holes" on the schematic. The outhole is also generically an eject hole, but they do call it the outhole.

terminology is kinda vague ... eject holes = kickout holes = saucers depending on manufacturer, who is talking and what they'd been drinking

slingshot almost always just mean a vertical arm that kicks the ball sideways from behind a rubber ring.

tmi
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if you're interpreting the schematic, hang in there ... it'll start making sense as you plod thru it. For example, if your ball in play lights don't work, the typical approach is:

1] find those lamps on the schematic. They are around A-3

2] note the thing controlling the lamps is called the "ball count unit"

3] try manually stepping the ball count unit and verify the lights work. If not, make sure no other switches need to also be closed.

4] if ya conclude the unit/lamps are fine but the unit isn't stepping, then ya look for the "ball count step-up" coil. wms is nice and tell you in a chart that it's at F-8 on the schem. Then you try and figure out what the circuit means and you start poking around with a voltmeter or jumper wire to find issues.

in the ball count unit case, what the circuit says is:

1] the ball count unit will step up when the last enabled player is active (player unit keeps track of current player, coin unit how many players enabled)

2] the step up pulse is coming from score motor cam 1A switch. The switch stacks on score cams 1-6 go down/up in timed sequence, so 1A will happen quickly after the motor turns on.

3] the ball index relay switch needs to close

4] if you have an extra ball, a switch opens to disable stepping the unit

5] an outhole relay switch needs to be closed

the ball index relay is wtf #1, so you go find that (chart says F-17) and you'll see that you either have to tilt the game or score 10/100/1000 points. So conclusion is the ball count unit won't normally move until you score some points. This was the EM way of doing a ball save ... if you shot the ball and scored nothing, you got the ball back to try again.

the fun part is when is the outhole relay switch at schem C-8 actually closed (connecting yellow to R-O)? It can get kinda ambiguous figuring out in what machine state the schematic is drawn. While there's some rules of thumb that usually apply, ya get bitten enough times to either go look further in the schem, look in the game or just make some logical assumptions.

in this case, the outhole relay powers when a ball closes the outhole switch, and stays powered until score motor 6B switch opens (remember from above that will happen after 1A closes/opens). Since powering the outhole relay runs the score motor, you run into wtf #2. How can a ball be sitting in the outhole to power the outhole relay, maybe get kicked to the shooter and score points before 6B opens?

it can't, so either the outhole relay has to hold itself powered until points are scored, or the ball count unit doesn't step up until the ball drains.

you can go find that stuff on the schem, and the lamp part of the schematic gives a big hint ... the ball in play 1 light is on when the unit is reset, so on this game ball in play steps when the ball for the last enabled player drains AND they've scored points without getting an extra ball.

note some games would reset to have no ball in play lights lit, and the unit would step up once when points were scored, the ball was kicked to the shooter, or ball was shot. You always want to use the schematic for the game, and if you only have a schem for a similar game, be skeptical.

On score motor cams 5 & 6, the top 2 blades on each switch are the normally closed portions of the make/break switches. These 2 normally closed switches are the shared relay hold circuits release switches. Clean and check for strong switch closure.
On the index cam, the top 2 blades will connect when the switch stack lifts off of a home position.
Clean and check this switch along with the normally closed switches on this switch stack.

A schematic error is at location F8 we’re ball coin step up should read ball count step up. Make correction to your schematic.