(Topic ID: 75438)

Space Shuttle crew members' club - prepare for liftoff!

By E_N_3

10 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 4,496 posts
  • 322 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 days ago by SkyKing2301
  • Topic is favorited by 150 Pinsiders

You

Linked Games

Topic Gallery

View topic image gallery

20240425_084536 (resized).jpg
IMG_1583 (resized).jpeg
IMG_20240422_205151828.jpg
IMG_2045 (resized).jpeg
IMG_8570 (resized).jpeg
IMG_1976 (resized).jpeg
IMG_1587 (resized).jpeg
IMG_1584 (resized).jpeg
IMG_1586 (resized).jpeg
IMG_9366 (resized).jpeg
IMG_9367 (resized).jpeg
IMG_9370 (resized).jpeg
IMG_9373 (resized).jpeg
IMG_9371 (resized).jpeg
Screenshot_20240402_182055_eBay (resized).jpg
20240401_124145 (resized).jpg

Topic index (key posts)

6 key posts have been marked in this topic (Show topic index)

There are 4,496 posts in this topic. You are on page 90 of 90.
#4451 58 days ago

Since we're on the topic... does anyone know where you can get a coin door? Mine is smashed in pretty good. I've looked multiple times (although not recently) and was never able to find one.

#4452 58 days ago
Quoted from Pinkitten:

Also, for anyone doing a swap or restoration, you can order a new set of wood rails for SS (and other titles) in a variety of colors and finishes. I chose black lacquer.

Or you can buy some hobby oak from Home Depot, cut it to size and paint them whatever colour you like. My choice was blue to match everything else...

rails (resized).jpgrails (resized).jpg

rails_paint (resized).jpgrails_paint (resized).jpg

#4454 57 days ago

Thanks. I think I’ve seen that before but was confused as it said it was a “skin”. Now I’m taking it as a replacement door and you install the rest of the parts on it. Pretty cool! Will check it out.

#4455 55 days ago

The translucent red, white and blue pops above look fantastic! I had considered all three colors, but one of each hadn’t occurred to me. I went with red/white on mine, which looks good. I’d love to do the 3 translucent colors.

Picked up my SS today and the new playfield is so nice! Super fast, with all metal components cleaned and re-plated. The spinner spins forever when you rip it. The cab is original and pretty nice overall. It just has a few small dings, so I’m going to fill, sand, polish and touch up. I’ll replace the 2 speakers with new also. I had leds installed under the two lock scoops. I will post pics of that. I highly recommend it.

IMG_6615 (resized).jpegIMG_6615 (resized).jpegIMG_6616 (resized).jpegIMG_6616 (resized).jpegIMG_6617 (resized).jpegIMG_6617 (resized).jpegIMG_6618 (resized).jpegIMG_6618 (resized).jpeg
IMG_6608 (resized).jpegIMG_6608 (resized).jpeg

IMG_6612 (resized).jpegIMG_6612 (resized).jpeg
#4456 55 days ago
Quoted from Pinkitten:

The translucent red, white and blue pops above look fantastic! I had considered all three colors, but one of each hadn’t occurred to me. I went with red/white on mine, which looks good. I’d love to do the 3 translucent colors.
Picked up my SS today and the new playfield is so nice! Super fast, with all metal components cleaned and re-plated. The spinner spins forever when you rip it. The cab is original and pretty nice overall. It just has a few small dings, so I’m going to fill, sand, polish and touch up. I’ll replace the 2 speakers with new also. I had leds installed under the two lock scoops. I will post pics of that. I highly recommend it.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
[quoted image]
[quoted image]

Looks great!! I am slowly going through mine now. I am doing a similar look, clear posts and white target faces. I assume that red padded tape is to protect the ramp edge a bit? I wish I would have ordered a set of cliffys six months ago. Anyone have a set they're not using?

#4457 54 days ago
Quoted from grbgemen:

Looks great!! I am slowly going through mine now. I am doing a similar look, clear posts and white target faces. I assume that red padded tape is to protect the ramp edge a bit? I wish I would have ordered a set of cliffys six months ago. Anyone have a set they're not using?

Yep, just a temp protector for that exposed edge. I bought some super thin aluminum metal I plan to cut and bend around that edge, with a little foam to absorb the force.

#4458 54 days ago
Quoted from Pinkitten:

The translucent red, white and blue pops above look fantastic! I had considered all three colors, but one of each hadn’t occurred to me. I went with red/white on mine, which looks good. I’d love to do the 3 translucent colors.
Picked up my SS today and the new playfield is so nice! Super fast, with all metal components cleaned and re-plated. The spinner spins forever when you rip it. The cab is original and pretty nice overall. It just has a few small dings, so I’m going to fill, sand, polish and touch up. I’ll replace the 2 speakers with new also. I had leds installed under the two lock scoops. I will post pics of that. I highly recommend it.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
[quoted image]
[quoted image]

Nice job! I do miss the machine sometimes but I'm glad you were the one to get it to that condition! That machine will be running for a long time with all the work you did and what I did previous to it. Beautiful!

#4459 54 days ago
Quoted from waletboy:

Nice job! I do miss the machine sometimes but I'm glad you were the one to get it to that condition! That machine will be running for a long time with all the work you did and what I did previous to it. Beautiful!

It’s a nice one! I can’t take credit for the playfield swap. My friend did that for me. He’s great at it. He’s doing a full high-end restoration of a White Water for another friend and I saw it yesterday. It’s awesome. Chrome rails, new cabinet decals, Ron Kruzman playfield. Wow.
I have upgraded several things on SS and I’ll lightly restore the cab. The new light board was installed also. It’s coming along, and was a nice SS to begin with.

#4460 54 days ago

I am still looking for a complete ball gate assembly and switch for the ramp exit. Anyone have a spare that they're willing to part with?

ball gate (resized).jpgball gate (resized).jpg

#4461 53 days ago
Quoted from Sonic:

Yep - our ramp MRS has been quite popular with Shuttle owners....it's a simple solution and easy to install....let me know if interested!
Oh, and don't forget one of these for your GNR!
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/guns-n-roses-gnr-members-only/page/47#post-6586952
Matt
M&M Creations

#4462 53 days ago
Quoted from grbgemen:

I am still looking for a complete ball gate assembly and switch for the ramp exit. Anyone have a spare that they're willing to part with?
[quoted image]

Quoted from Sonic:
Yep - our ramp MRS has been quite popular with Shuttle owners....it's a simple solution and easy to install....let me know if interested!
Matt
M&M Creations

#4463 53 days ago
Quoted from pindel:

Quoted from Sonic:
Yep - our ramp MRS has been quite popular with Shuttle owners....it's a simple solution and easy to install....let me know if interested!
Matt
M&M Creations

Where are people placing the MRS mostly?

#4464 53 days ago
Quoted from Pinkitten:

Where are people placing the MRS mostly?

There are 2 on the ramp - one under the shuttle (the most popular) and the one I believe you need further up the ramp...it's plug/stick & play - simply adheres underneath the ramp anywhere you prefer....

Matt

#4465 53 days ago
Quoted from Sonic:

There are 2 on the ramp - one under the shuttle (the most popular) and the one I believe you need further up the ramp...it's plug/stick & play - simply adheres underneath the ramp anywhere you prefer....
Matt

Oh I know! I was almost a beta tester a few years back. I installed 3 on my Who Dunnit center ramp and you included a photo of it with your switches! I’m a big fan of the MRS. I’ve installed them on EATPM, White Water and Ripleys too. I have one for the Shadow too. They work great.

2 weeks later
#4466 38 days ago

Having some issues with rebuilding after replacing plastics. The screws to hold the plastics/shuttle no longer hold. They are either too short to reach the ramp plastic due to the new thickness, or too narrow to actually bite into the hole of the ramp plastic. Also having this issue with the new pop caps. The recess on the top to allow the head of the screw to sink a bit to make it more even with the top is a little too narrow for the screw head so it is unable to get in far enough to bite(also causes the plastic on top of them to warp a bit when installed because it cannot sit flush. What have you all found to remedy this, if anything.

#4467 38 days ago
Quoted from StavrosMilos:

Having some issues with rebuilding after replacing plastics. The screws to hold the plastics/shuttle no longer hold. They are either too short to reach the ramp plastic due to the new thickness, or too narrow to actually bite into the hole of the ramp plastic. Also having this issue with the new pop caps. The recess on the top to allow the head of the screw to sink a bit to make it more even with the top is a little too narrow for the screw head so it is unable to get in far enough to bite(also causes the plastic on top of them to warp a bit when installed because it cannot sit flush. What have you all found to remedy this, if anything.

Longer screws.

#4468 34 days ago

Does anyone know how I can install a 12v strip of LED’s on a Space Shuttle?
I have a bunch of strips and I’m hoping to use one to illuminate a topper I just bought from CPR.
Thanks!

#4469 33 days ago

Hi Everyone,
I purchased a new to me space shuttle that was in process of doing a playfield swap. It came with a new cpr playfield. Since I didn’t start this swap it’s taken me a month to finish it up but I have some experience with pins so I finally figured it out. The game hadn’t been powered up for over 5 years and there is no battery damage. I rebuilt the power supply before I booted up and checked power and the readings and ac ripple are in tolerance.

The bad news is that when I power up I don’t get a zero on the mpu board. The segments on the board are all out.

The good news is that the game displays all work, controlled lights all work and the game is in attract mode and toggles the displays and lights as it should. I can toggle the test switches and it goes into test mode and the display tests, switch tests and solenoid tests all work. No sound in sound test but I have a hum and the sound amp seems to work because I can adjust the volume control and raise and lower the sound output. Also various solenoids fire on power up and blow the 2.5 amp fuse. I disconnected the solenoids that fire at the solenoids by removing ground input and all of the other solenoids mostly driven by u4 solenoid drive work when I replaced the fuse.

When I go into test mode I can attach the solenoids that fire on startup and they function normally in test mode. I have good blanking signals to the solenoid drive circuits. And reset is working.

So, on the mpu I have checked the address and data buses and they toggle. I have checked the chip select circuits and they are working. Blanking and interrupt are all working.

I have it on a bench and using a pc power supply have the same symptoms. . I found a bad pin on the game rom and installed a new chip holder and replaced the game and sound rom.
I have swapped the cpus and no change.

One anomaly I can’t figure out is on u4 pin 40. It says it is the sound busy signal and says it is an output to u13. The pia description calls this pin a input but on the schematic it shows as an output to U13 pin 40. With a meter I have no connection from U4 pin 40 to pin 40 of u13 which is listed as CA1. I also have no signal either high or low on pin 40 of U4 testing with a logic probe. Is the schematic correct for this connection?

I have checked the inputs to U8 from U5 and they never toggle so I jumpered u62 pins to ground and the seven segment mpu display segment do light up so I know it works.

So I am a bit stuck. I ordered a rom burner from eBay to make Leon’s test EPROMs but the sp200 I bought won’t load the chip library so I am trying to figure that out too.

Should I replace U4? Should pin 40 be tied to pin 40 of u13? Btw pin 40 of u13 is low as tested on the logic probe.

Sorry for such a long rambling but this system 9 board is running me in circles. I worked on earlier machines while I was in the navy back in the early 80’s in VA beach and I’m pretty decent though I am getting older and it’s not as easy to work through schematics now as it once was.
Thanks for help or advice in advance.

#4470 33 days ago
Quoted from Dandydan1959:

Hi Everyone,
I purchased a new to me space shuttle that was in process of doing a playfield swap. It came with a new cpr playfield. Since I didn’t start this swap it’s taken me a month to finish it up but I have some experience with pins so I finally figured it out. The game hadn’t been powered up for over 5 years and there is no battery damage. I rebuilt the power supply before I booted up and checked power and the readings and ac ripple are in tolerance.
The bad news is that when I power up I don’t get a zero on the mpu board. The segments on the board are all out.
The good news is that the game displays all work, controlled lights all work and the game is in attract mode and toggles the displays and lights as it should. I can toggle the test switches and it goes into test mode and the display tests, switch tests and solenoid tests all work. No sound in sound test but I have a hum and the sound amp seems to work because I can adjust the volume control and raise and lower the sound output. Also various solenoids fire on power up and blow the 2.5 amp fuse. I disconnected the solenoids that fire at the solenoids by removing ground input and all of the other solenoids mostly driven by u4 solenoid drive work when I replaced the fuse.
When I go into test mode I can attach the solenoids that fire on startup and they function normally in test mode. I have good blanking signals to the solenoid drive circuits. And reset is working.
So, on the mpu I have checked the address and data buses and they toggle. I have checked the chip select circuits and they are working. Blanking and interrupt are all working.
I have it on a bench and using a pc power supply have the same symptoms. . I found a bad pin on the game rom and installed a new chip holder and replaced the game and sound rom.
I have swapped the cpus and no change.
One anomaly I can’t figure out is on u4 pin 40. It says it is the sound busy signal and says it is an output to u13. The pia description calls this pin a input but on the schematic it shows as an output to U13 pin 40. With a meter I have no connection from U4 pin 40 to pin 40 of u13 which is listed as CA1. I also have no signal either high or low on pin 40 of U4 testing with a logic probe. Is the schematic correct for this connection?
I have checked the inputs to U8 from U5 and they never toggle so I jumpered u62 pins to ground and the seven segment mpu display segment do light up so I know it works.
So I am a bit stuck. I ordered a rom burner from eBay to make Leon’s test EPROMs but the sp200 I bought won’t load the chip library so I am trying to figure that out too.
Should I replace U4? Should pin 40 be tied to pin 40 of u13? Btw pin 40 of u13 is low as tested on the logic probe.
Sorry for such a long rambling but this system 9 board is running me in circles. I worked on earlier machines while I was in the navy back in the early 80’s in VA beach and I’m pretty decent though I am getting older and it’s not as easy to work through schematics now as it once was.
Thanks for help or advice in advance.

SYS9 boards are expensive. Sounds like you have a clean a good board with minimal problems. Keep it up, you’ll fix it.

#4471 33 days ago
Quoted from Dandydan1959:

Hi Everyone,
I purchased a new to me space shuttle that was in process of doing a playfield swap. It came with a new cpr playfield. Since I didn’t start this swap it’s taken me a month to finish it up but I have some experience with pins so I finally figured it out. The game hadn’t been powered up for over 5 years and there is no battery damage. I rebuilt the power supply before I booted up and checked power and the readings and ac ripple are in tolerance.
The bad news is that when I power up I don’t get a zero on the mpu board. The segments on the board are all out.
The good news is that the game displays all work, controlled lights all work and the game is in attract mode and toggles the displays and lights as it should. I can toggle the test switches and it goes into test mode and the display tests, switch tests and solenoid tests all work. No sound in sound test but I have a hum and the sound amp seems to work because I can adjust the volume control and raise and lower the sound output. Also various solenoids fire on power up and blow the 2.5 amp fuse. I disconnected the solenoids that fire at the solenoids by removing ground input and all of the other solenoids mostly driven by u4 solenoid drive work when I replaced the fuse.
When I go into test mode I can attach the solenoids that fire on startup and they function normally in test mode. I have good blanking signals to the solenoid drive circuits. And reset is working.
So, on the mpu I have checked the address and data buses and they toggle. I have checked the chip select circuits and they are working. Blanking and interrupt are all working.
I have it on a bench and using a pc power supply have the same symptoms. . I found a bad pin on the game rom and installed a new chip holder and replaced the game and sound rom.
I have swapped the cpus and no change.
One anomaly I can’t figure out is on u4 pin 40. It says it is the sound busy signal and says it is an output to u13. The pia description calls this pin a input but on the schematic it shows as an output to U13 pin 40. With a meter I have no connection from U4 pin 40 to pin 40 of u13 which is listed as CA1. I also have no signal either high or low on pin 40 of U4 testing with a logic probe. Is the schematic correct for this connection?
I have checked the inputs to U8 from U5 and they never toggle so I jumpered u62 pins to ground and the seven segment mpu display segment do light up so I know it works.
So I am a bit stuck. I ordered a rom burner from eBay to make Leon’s test EPROMs but the sp200 I bought won’t load the chip library so I am trying to figure that out too.
Should I replace U4? Should pin 40 be tied to pin 40 of u13? Btw pin 40 of u13 is low as tested on the logic probe.
Sorry for such a long rambling but this system 9 board is running me in circles. I worked on earlier machines while I was in the navy back in the early 80’s in VA beach and I’m pretty decent though I am getting older and it’s not as easy to work through schematics now as it once was.
Thanks for help or advice in advance.

You may want to consider sending the board to an expert, like ChrisHibler who has the test fixtures and deep knowledge to really diagnose it. Just a thought. If you want to continue to work on it yourself, I can burn you a copy of Leon's Test Rom; just send me a PM.

#4472 33 days ago

I need one segment display (player 4). I want to keep it original. Does anyone have one that could sell, or know of where I can locate an original working display?

thanks.

#4473 32 days ago
Quoted from Methos:

I need one segment display (player 4). I want to keep it original. Does anyone have one that could sell, or know of where I can locate an original working display?
thanks.

I have one I could spare, send me a PM.

#4474 26 days ago
Quoted from Methos:

I need one segment display (player 4). I want to keep it original. Does anyone have one that could sell, or know of where I can locate an original working display?
thanks.

Pics

20240401_123913 (resized).jpg20240401_123913 (resized).jpg20240401_123937 (resized).jpg20240401_123937 (resized).jpg20240401_124145 (resized).jpg20240401_124145 (resized).jpg
#4475 26 days ago

Ebay tnt

Screenshot_20240402_182055_eBay (resized).jpgScreenshot_20240402_182055_eBay (resized).jpg
11
#4476 25 days ago

Got my Shuttle set up at home and nearly put up 5 mil. Having fun with this one. The code, rules and balanced scoring is great. Newly restored playfield playing like butter!

IMG_9367 (resized).jpegIMG_9367 (resized).jpegIMG_9373 (resized).jpegIMG_9373 (resized).jpegIMG_9370 (resized).jpegIMG_9370 (resized).jpegIMG_9371 (resized).jpegIMG_9371 (resized).jpegIMG_9366 (resized).jpegIMG_9366 (resized).jpeg
#4477 23 days ago
Quoted from Pinkitten:

Got my Shuttle set up at home and nearly put up 5 mil. Having fun with this one. The code, rules and balanced scoring is great. Newly restored playfield playing like butter!
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Nice clean look with white targets and blue rubbers. Like the white flipper rubber. Only thing I can think of to take it to the next level is changing to clear ramp.

1 week later
#4478 13 days ago

Added some green LEDs to light up those lock saucers.

I improved my best score to 4.9 mil. Sooo close to getting 5m. My goal is 10m. Any strategies from you big scorers? I usually try to max out the jackpot multiplier at 7x. I’m not great at clearing the drops to boost the spinner, but that’s the most fun approach for me. They aren’t easy to clear, which makes it more fun. If I can get the spinner to 3000-4000+, I really focus on ripping that spinner.

Is Multiball a big points approach? It doesn’t seem like it to me, other than having 2-3 balls going and hitting targets. I seldom hit the center ramp during mb. It’s a very tough shot on my machine for some reason and the jackpot doesn’t seem huge.

IMG_1584 (resized).jpegIMG_1584 (resized).jpegIMG_1586 (resized).jpegIMG_1586 (resized).jpegIMG_1587 (resized).jpegIMG_1587 (resized).jpeg

#4479 13 days ago
Quoted from Pinkitten:

Added some green LEDs to light up those lock saucers.
I improved my best score to 4.9 mil. Sooo close to getting 5m. My goal is 10m. Any strategies from you big scorers? I usually try to max out the jackpot multiplier at 7x. I’m not great at clearing the drops to boost the spinner, but that’s the most fun approach for me. They aren’t easy to clear, which makes it more fun. If I can get the spinner to 3000-4000+, I really focus on ripping that spinner.
Is Multiball a big points approach? It doesn’t seem like it to me, other than having 2-3 balls going and hitting targets. I seldom hit the center ramp during mb. It’s a very tough shot on my machine for some reason and the jackpot doesn’t seem huge.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

That looks cool; I like the lit eject holes! So you just changed the LEDs in there to a different color?

Space Shuttle is all about the spinner; that's where all the points are. Get that spinner light up to 4,000 and beyond and you can really rack up the points. I don't focus on getting the bonus up because you don't get very many points from it. You typically only get 100,000 - 200,000 points from it on a ball, but you can get millions of points on a ball from the spinner. To me, getting the extra ball from getting the bonus or spinner up to 7X or 7,000 is what's really valuable. Get good at hitting that spinner and sweeping the drops; you will then kill it on points. Multi-ball is is definitely a way to get a lot of points, but to me, is second to hitting the spinner. In other words, it's not a must for me. Also, I almost never intentionally aim for SHUTTLE letters, unless there's one or two left and it's on something valuable like Extra Ball or Special. I almost never intentionally aim for the locks either. Both of those things will happen on their own during normal play and if you miss, usually leads to drains and/or bad situations.

#4480 12 days ago
Quoted from interconnect:

That looks cool; I like the lit eject holes! So you just changed the LEDs in there to a different color?
Space Shuttle is all about the spinner; that's where all the points are. Get that spinner light up to 4,000 and beyond and you can really rack up the points. I don't focus on getting the bonus up because you don't get very many points from it. You typically only get 100,000 - 200,000 points from it on a ball, but you can get millions of points on a ball from the spinner. To me, getting the extra ball from getting the bonus or spinner up to 7X or 7,000 is what's really valuable. Get good at hitting that spinner and sweeping the drops; you will then kill it on points. Multi-ball is is definitely a way to get a lot of points, but to me, is second to hitting the spinner. In other words, it's not a must for me. Also, I almost never intentionally aim for SHUTTLE letters, unless there's one or two left and it's on something valuable like Extra Ball or Special. I almost never intentionally aim for the locks either. Both of those things will happen on their own during normal play and if you miss, usually leads to drains and/or bad situations.

Yep, changed to a 2-headed green flex led. They really illuminate the saucers. I might try blue, but green I associate with ball locks.

I agree about the spinner, plus it’s the most fun to rip. I’m only so-so at clearing the 3 drops, so I rarely get past 3000-4000/spin. But anytime I’m at 3000+ I focus on the spinner. I’m pretty good at hitting the 2 lock shots, plus they award 3x jackpot for each. Quick way to max out the jackpot multiplier. The left outlane is thirsty and deadly on mine. It’s the “dead zone,” on my example. If the ball is headed that way, it’s trouble. I would love a kickback in that left outlane that could be qualified. That’s the one feature I wish was there.

IMG_1976 (resized).jpegIMG_1976 (resized).jpeg

-3
#4481 12 days ago
Quoted from Pinkitten:

Yep, changed to a 2-headed green flex led. They really illuminate the saucers. I might try blue, but green I associate with ball locks.
I agree about the spinner, plus it’s the most fun to rip. I’m only so-so at clearing the 3 drops, so I rarely get past 3000-4000/spin. But anytime I’m at 3000+ I focus on the spinner. I’m pretty good at hitting the 2 lock shots, plus they award 3x jackpot for each. Quick way to max out the jackpot multiplier. The left outlane is thirsty and deadly on mine. It’s the “dead zone,” on my example. If the ball is headed that way, it’s trouble. I would love a kickback in that left outlane that could be qualified. That’s the one feature I wish was there.
[quoted image]

I believe you advance the end of ball bonus by 3,000 points when locking a ball (3ADV); it doesn’t give you 3X jackpot. There is no jackpot in the game. Locking a ball doesn’t do much in terms of points, it’s just good you’ve got a ball locked and ready for multiball at that point.

Regarding the left outlane… after much debate, we added a post with small rubber on it to the left outlane. It actually works out perfect now; it sometimes saves you and sometimes it’ll still drain. We honestly see that left outlane as so egregious that it had to be a design flaw. The post really makes it perfect and is consistent with what Williams was doing at the time in other games. When I do my playfield swap, we’re planning on putting the post back in as well.

IMG_8570 (resized).jpegIMG_8570 (resized).jpeg
#4482 12 days ago

Ah, I see. So ADV3 doesn’t advance your jackpot multiplier by 3x? I’ll have to look for that. That’s confusing. The extra post makes sense, and I agree the left outlane is too thirsty. I’m not sure I can bring myself to add a post in my new pf, but it would make that area more reasonable.

#4483 12 days ago
Quoted from Pinkitten:

Ah, I see. So ADV3 doesn’t advance your jackpot multiplier by 3x? I’ll have to look for that. That’s confusing. The extra post makes sense, and I agree the left outlane is too thirsty. I’m not sure I can bring myself to add a post in my new pf, but it would make that area more reasonable.

It advances your end of ball bonus by 3,000; there is no jackpot.

Yeah I totally understand with not wanting to drill holes in a new playfield.

#4484 12 days ago

End of ball bonus multiplier, I meant. Didn’t mean jackpot. I thought it advanced the multiplier by 3.

#4485 11 days ago

Or blue…

IMG_2045 (resized).jpegIMG_2045 (resized).jpeg
#4486 6 days ago
Quoted from interconnect:

We honestly see that left outlane as so egregious that it had to be a design flaw.

There was no design flaw.

-1
#4487 6 days ago
Quoted from Lithium:

There was no design flaw.

Well, that’s just your opinion. My opinion is that it’s a design flaw because it’s just so bad that it just had to be a mistake.

#4488 6 days ago
Quoted from interconnect:

Well, that’s just your opinion. My opinion is that it’s a design flaw because it’s just so bad that it just had to be a mistake.

You are incorrect.

#4490 6 days ago

To play devils advocate here, wouldn’t it be you with the “know-it-all” attitude?

If Barry wanted a post there, he’d have one. Now, if you want your own game to be easier, all the power to you, but calling it a design flaw is a bit much…

-1
#4491 6 days ago

How is what I said having a know-it-all attitude? It’s just a matter of opinion; I never said it as if I was proclaiming it was the only, righteous way. I would also beg to differ. Simply just saying “you’re wrong” is ridiculous when talking about an opinion, especially when giving no reason.

Also, for us, it wasn’t about making the game easier. Out of all the games we’ve ever played, there’s no game that has a shot like the one off the left flipper in Space Shuttle that hits a drop target for an exact line insta-drain outlet outlane that’s so repeatable. I’m not the only person that believes this.

#4492 6 days ago

Houston, we have a hoarding problem.
IMG_20240422_205151828.jpgIMG_20240422_205151828.jpg

Ran a vendor table at a local pop culture convention and brought four games for the show. Got a lot of smiles and attention even despite my poor location planning. Most notably, got approached by a local game room enthusiast who asked if I'm looking to buy anything. Cue the quick verbal tour of his project Space Shuttle with some small issues. I asked him what he valued it at, he said he'd give it up for $400.

I took the deal at a professional pace and looked over the game in person, but you better believe I had my mind made up the moment he quoted me the price! Compared with some of the projects I have sitting around, it's pretty decent. A couple switches not working. Game boots in bookkeeping mode - which, with my zero familiarity with System 9, makes me assume the already-off-board batteries are dead. Sound cuts out when lock gets lit, I assume it could be a bad sound ROM. Low-quality printed translite because original backglass was toast; we got CPR for that (and BK2K at the same time to save on shipping).

#4493 6 days ago
Quoted from interconnect:Well, that’s just your opinion. My opinion is that it’s a design flaw because it’s just so bad that it just had to be a mistake.

This game is very friendly. I can't imagine adding that post to make it even easier...

-1
#4494 6 days ago
Quoted from jdoz2:

This game is very friendly. I can't imagine adding that post to make it even easier...

I can’t imagine not having it.

#4495 6 days ago

It’s a dangerous area on my example. I had to designate it as such. I have a Do Not Enter sticker for it too. So far, the warnings don’t help. I lose balls over there. Maybe because my house leans to the left.

IMG_1583 (resized).jpegIMG_1583 (resized).jpeg
#4496 4 days ago

Had a work meeting with 5-time shuttle flyer Ken Bowersox, who was more than happy to add to my autograph collection. He reminisced about playing pinball in the 80s, pushing and nudging the machines around ("you were playing them properly!" I told him). He thanked me for preserving a piece of history, with all the autographs I've collected on the game. I also commented on his flying five times -- "it wasn't enough," he said. He mentioned that Jerry Ross -- whose autograph is juat across the lock lane window from his -- flew seven times!

I believe this brings my total shuttle astronaut autographs up to 31!

20240425_084536 (resized).jpg20240425_084536 (resized).jpg
Promoted items from Pinside Marketplace and Pinside Shops!
$ 12.50
Lighting - Led
RoyGBev Pinball
 
$ 18.95
Eproms
Pinballrom
 
2,200 (OBO)
Machine - For Sale
Allentown, PA
$ 69.00
Gameroom - Decorations
Pinball Pimp
 
From: $ 33.00
Gameroom - Decorations
Rocket City Pinball
 
$ 69.00
Gameroom - Decorations
Pinball Pimp
 
$ 50.00
Cabinet - Toppers
Slipstream Mod Shop
 
6,500
Machine - For Sale
Homer Glen, IL
$ 65.00
Boards
Pinball Haus
 
$ 44.99
Cabinet - Shooter Rods
Pinball Shark
 
$ 33.95
Eproms
Pinballrom
 
From: $ 35.00
Cabinet - Other
Rocket City Pinball
 
There are 4,496 posts in this topic. You are on page 90 of 90.

Reply

Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.

Hey there! Welcome to Pinside!

Donate to Pinside

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!


This page was printed from https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/space-shuttle-crew-members-club-prepare-for-liftoff/page/90 and we tried optimising it for printing. Some page elements may have been deliberately hidden.

Scan the QR code on the left to jump to the URL this document was printed from.