(Topic ID: 354336)

Judge Dredd Flipper Grounded Switch Issue

By RaoulJuke

37 days ago



Topic Stats

  • 9 posts
  • 4 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 36 days ago by pins4u
  • No one calls this topic a favorite

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#1 37 days ago

Recently helped a mate getting his first machine with picking it up.At the pick-up point, we played the game and it all appeared to work.

When we got it home, we powered it on no issues, but did not put a game into it. i quickly showed him through the menu's, reset to Factory Default for him as he wanted it, along with high scores etc. Then we both had to run off and do other things. When be powered it on later, the game was doing all sorts of weird shit.

1) On boot up the Right Popper (03) & Left Popper (02) are firing about ten times each before stopping.

2) When starting a game, its spitting balls out 1 at a time continually, no opto's work, no flippers work

When putting into solenoid test, flippers are all working, however no opto's work in switch test. Diagnosed as a Flipper Grounded Switch Issue as everything in that line is effectively poo. I can't really see how the factory default would have changed anything, unless something was disabled, so assume its an issue caused by movemen, but for the life of me can't see it. i assumed originally a cable might have just become d/c.

And what is possibly causing the poppers to fire on boot up?

I am intermediate with pinball repair, but never worked on JD and avoided buying one as i never wanted to really to work on it, but now im stuck doing it helping this mate, haha.

I searched the inter-webs and found this thread below which is 80% of the issues i have, ( minus the poppers) , however i am unsure what they mean about the repair, if even relevant & what the deal is with the poppers as i dont see how they could be related. I assume as issue happened most likely in transit, there is a wire break or connector issue, i just cant seem to find anything!

https://www.maaca.org/viewtopic.php?t=2838

Annyone can offer some guidance i would really appreciate it, doing me head in!
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#2 37 days ago

Check that the 12V is on the 10 opto board. If missing this could cause all sorts of crazy issues that you are describing.

#3 37 days ago

Sounds like 12V opto power is missing, as mentioned above, but also could have lost it at F116 on the large power driver board in the upper left corner of the board in the backbox. So test this fuse, especially if the LED7 is not lit

If this fuse did blow, are there any LED lighted strips or LED lit flipper buttons installed?

#4 37 days ago
Quoted from PinballManiac40:

Sounds like 12V opto power is missing, as mentioned above, but also could have lost it at F116 on the large power driver board in the upper left corner of the board in the backbox. So test this fuse, especially if the LED7 is not lit
If this fuse did blow, are there any LED lighted strips or LED lit flipper buttons installed?

Thanks guys, I have his machine in my van atm and will have it set up tomorrow and will check it out. There were no additional LED or flipper lights etc installed. I will definitely check that 12V tho. Someone mentioned the "10 Opto Board" - Which one is this ? From what i can see there is

7 Switch Opto PCB
24 Switch Opto PCB
Planet Opto PCB
5 Bank Opto PCB
Double Flipper Opto
Flipper Opto LEFT

#5 37 days ago

Check which board your troublesome optos are connected to - that one!

#6 37 days ago
Quoted from pins4u:

Check which board your troublesome optos are connected to - that one! If they all go back to the same

Haha, well from what i can tell, its all the opto's! couldn't find a working one on the game at all. I'm still totally confused how the issue arose based around being transported for an hour or just resetting the factory default. I've moved a couple hundred pinballs in my time, first time its ever happened & had to be on my bloody mates

#7 36 days ago
Quoted from PinballManiac40:

Sounds like 12V opto power is missing, as mentioned above, but also could have lost it at F116 on the large power driver board in the upper left corner of the board in the backbox. So test this fuse, especially if the LED7 is not lit
If this fuse did blow, are there any LED lighted strips or LED lit flipper buttons installed?

Awesome good advice. Wish I could upvote this higher.

Under your playfield are various boards, and many of them use the 12v power that runs through F116.

Lately there have been a LOT of failures of optic boards (and other small boards) due to a particular capacitor being 30+ years old and failing.

This is a 100uf 35v radial capacitor, and lately every machine made about the time your machine was made has multiple numbers of these capacitor failures. When the capacitor starts leaking electrolyte it usually corrodes the traces below it causing board problems, but I suspect it could use a lot of +12v power (when the capacitor gets hot to the touch) and might have caused your fuse to blow.

On your machine I'd replace all of these:

C2 on the power driver board
C1 on the flipper trough opto receiver board
C1 on the Opto SW 7 PCB

And if you see corrosion, get that repaired.

#8 36 days ago

Thanks everyone, i can confirm that Fuse - LED 7 was blown., but also think i have found another issue

Attached is the right flipper switch opto pcb. The track on it was off the pcb, and the wire (blue/Violet) was soldered to the point circled in yellow. Is this a hack job? As looking at the manual it looks like this wire is actually meant to go into the connector, or is it actually meant to be soldered to the pcb?

I purchased a replacement Right Flipper Opto pcb as pictured. The new pcb as solder points for a 12v and ground point. Do i need to put this wire into the connector as per how i see the diagram, or, can it just be soldered to the 12v point on the pcb?

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#9 36 days ago

Put the wiring back to standard - That is an IDC plug so they are a bit crap BUT you should be able to cut the daggy end off that blue wire and push it back into the connector housing.

IDC wires do not need to be stripped, the connector pins cut through the insulation when you push the wire into the housing.

That original board has a track ripped off - it could be fixed but could also have other issues. The new one should do the trick without issues BUT please return the wiring to "original".

Don't solder to the pads on that new board, they are test points for a meter to confirm that 12V is at the board.

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