Bryan,

Any recommendations on a good laminate roller?

Not really. I've had mine for years. Got it from a cabinet shop buddy of mine.

That is some mental picture.....

Is there a "width" you can recommend?

So in preparing the surface correctly, what's the most important part? The type of paint? Isn't that the last thing that goes on prior to the decaling?

Or are you talking about tack cloth rubdown, etc.?

I mean, besides the sanding, puttying, priming and painting, what is good preparation for decals to stick?

I feel the most important is a smooth surface. The smoother that is the better the decal will look and will adhere to the surface. On my first cab I had some orange peel in the paint and it showed through in the darker areas plus I had some issues with it not staying put. On my second cab I made sure it was smooth like glass. Decals went on real nice and are sticking great.

Prep before installing the decals is important to.

I'll let Jim/Bryan add to that.

Now look what you did...you made me crap my last pair of Depends.

(Seriously, Bryan...if you have 5 pound balls, you should probably have that looked at.)

Really is easy I thought. I had a harder time with the vinyl and side art with my Ice Cold Beer. However I had custom art work for a pachinko cabinet made. I stored it in the garage during winter and the decal peeled on the corners. I however reapplied them with soapy water and put weights on the corners. It is fine now.

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So probably sanding with a really fine grit after painting but right before applying the decals is a must.

I also wonder about adding some sort of glue or something to the edges prior to placing decals on, to avoid peeling. Maybe a dab of wood glue here and there, then wiped off right after laying decals?

I don't know. I'd HATE to take the time to do all this and have those things peel up.

Get leg protectors if you do the cabinet. They will not wrinkle the corners. Peeling should not be a problem on the cabinet. The legs and rails should keep it in place. You shouldn't have peeling if you prep it well.

I'm getting ready to repaint and re-decal my Rocky & Bullwinkle using some custom decals.

I've spent too many hours to count sanding, filling and then sanding some more. I'm just about at the point now where I can go over the entire thing again with fine grit papers on the random orbital sander. It's been suggested that I might want to go as high as 600 grit to get a glass smooth finish.

Like McCune says it seems it's worth investing plenty of time in cabinet prep as it pays off in the long run (or at least that's the hope - I guess i'll find out in the next few weeks).

Wow

that was awesome

If you've prepped the cabinet correctly and installed the artwork correctly, no need for any glue.

I agree. Smoother is better.

Unless you enjoy sniffing it. But that doesn't usually lead to properly placed decals.

Jim, Is the automotive epoxy primer applied from a spray can or do you have to mix it and apply with a brush or roller (like a two-part epoxy garage floor Paint)? I am guessing this stuff is available at automotive paint speciality places? thanks.

Well done sir.
I put head decals on dry but never got the nerve up to try full cab decals by myself (2 hands).

I love the smell of Rapid Tac in the morning, smells like victory.......

Smart move using catalyzed paint / epoxy IMHO. Something that bonds with the wood should make a better base for decals over a regular paint. I used oil based polyurethane for the few cabs I have done so hopefully it's still bonded a decade from now.

I have full gallon of the oil-based Diamond clear Varathane. Was wondering, since the cab is wood and this stuff is made for finishing wood floors, would it not work as a sealer also?

Thanks, Jim.
There are many talented restorers out there but IMHO the great ones are those that take time to make videos or tutorials that explain in precise detail how they performed their "magic".
Wally

Thanks for posting this McCune.

I finally got around to doing the backbox on my Rocky & Bullwinkle and I used your method. I did manage to get a couple of small bubbles but looking back it's because I didn't follow your video precisely. Instead of working the squeegee up and down I was pushing in towards the decal being applied which, with hindsight, is clearly a big no-no.

I'm just glad I tested it out on the backbox first; applying the large cabinet decals should be much more straight forward now I recognise that you have to follow your method exactly.

Even with the very tiny air bubbles it still looks pretty sweet

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Of all the decal application videos I have seen, Jim's is definitely the best in my opinion. The method of folding /creasing the first few inches of the decal backing (not cutting it) and laying the decal back on it and Jim's method of applying the decal by running his felt squeegie back and forth along the decal seem key as it allows a more uniform way of setting the decal. That plus having a helper to hold the weight of the decal up that allows the backing to just slide back as it is pulled back.

You are an inspiration Jim

In the video it looks like you're applying the decals directly onto the primer - so you're shooting the cabinet paint post decal install? Care to share what brand of primer you're using? Thanks for the videos Jim - really helpful!

If you do get an air bubble, you can always take a fine needle and pop the bubble then smooth the decal. It's not ideal, but it looks a lot better than an air bubble that you can see. Also, if you can see the tiny hole after it's been smoothed out, you're a better man than I.

Im glad this thread was brought back to life. Makes me want to start a restoration.
Thanks for the video

It says the video is privat?

Yeah, I tried to view it too. Bummer.

McCune is gone from Pinside, and so--I would assume--are his videos.

First time I met Jim was before his son passed. Hell of a nice guy. Spent time together at Expo one year and RMPS another year. Had a blast. It was fun talking with someone who does what I do and has the same interests.

I will say, Jim changed after his son's death. I can't even imagine. I hope he finds peace with it all and I hope he returns here.

Some might not think it, but he is a decent guy.

He's an incredible guy and we became good friends...even though we were at each others' throats over WOZ for most of 2014.

And he and you, Bryan, guided me through my first restoration this year (FH), and for that I'll be forever grateful. I've got the confidence to do them on my own now!

I think.

Hey I want to see the video. it says private? is it down?

Me too, as I'm looking to do a couple pins. His work is amazing

I've only done the wet method for fear of alignment.

Kerry,

I have about 8 pins that I'm looking to re-decal.

Have you had luck using the "wet method"?

Yes, great luck and no issues. For me it was the peace of mind "if" i wanted to adjust the decal while it was down. I've done 4 cabinets.

The downside is you can't flip it and do the other side the same day.

I would suggest doing the front coin door first, so you can align sides off it later.

Thanks Kerry

Here's a video showing another dry method. I prefer McCune's approach. The main thing I remember from his video is that he only applied a few inches at a time, which is how I would do it.

Jims video is up and running. See how the pros do it!