High Speed Williams ran out of tall bell shape posts.
Ebay has a seller for the tall metal bell shape post.
Note:
add a stem 6-32 thread top metal post to replace one of the post screws [metal post next to jet bumper]
add hole to plastic piece and add white acorn nut.
Plastic will be better secured.

Too Fast??? So for the most part - I like my pinball machines bright and fast with as many nice mods as I can justify. I have my High Speed right now with new rubbers, all the switches cleaned and adjusted, all new capacitors, 6.5 degrees slope, new flippers, a really waxed playfield and new shiny pinballs. And I think maybe the game is actually playing too fast. The ball is bouncing over rails, over the flippers and just rolling real fast. Is it possible to set up High Speed so that it plays Too Fast?

Nah, sounds just right to me.
After all, it's literally the name of the game.
And I like it like that.

Seriously though, I always notice that mine plays fastest (and most chaotic) right after waxing, but gradually as the wax wears away, that chaos mellows out a bit and the airballs stop happening.

...then it's time for a fresh wax job.

Nope!

Oh yea, wax the balls too. Even more speed!

Thanks Grumpy. I got the new super polished pinballs but I will wax them as well. I know this has been talked about but I am using the red plunger spring from Marco but it seems a little too strong for the machine even thought it is what is in the manual. Have you tried the game with a slightly less strong plunger spring?

I used a silver spring, it had plenty of power.

Pic of things to come. Old/new. This PF is a work of art!

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Working thru my HS project now. Come to the realization that it has a replacement PF. (a factory 2nd at that) Whoever did the work on this PF did less than stellar work stapling the GI light routing wiring down. As i'm replacing Bulbs for LEDs...im finding more and more sockets loose or falling out of the PF due to shoddy stapling. Also finding cut and spliced wiring (some heat shrinked tubing...some naked wired) in multiple locations. Already roasted a GI fuse because of a dislodged socket shorting out to the frame of the 3rd flipper. Having to use 1/2in hex head screws to secure the sockets and loose wiring...since i cant get staples into that area. Shoddy soldering joints abound too. Minor annoying problems ...just alot of them. I think this person installed the bulbs as he was wiring this PF because any downward and twisting pressure to replace a bulb may dislodge a socket.

She's a beaut Clark!

I’ll definitely take my time and I’m in no hurry. In fact, don’t even plan on starting on it till June or later. I just wanted to get the PF while they still had them in stock. Also got a new back glass and plastics to get the biggest discount offered. I have an award winning restoration person lined up to do the cabinet.

Any help would be much apprieciated.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/need-high-speed-tear-down-pics

Texas version of HS spinner graphics. Made 3 slightly different size then picked best fit.

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You can probably find everything you’re looking for on the very first page of this thread at the top, under gallery.

Playing last night and put one in the trees. Anyone else have that problem? Had to move the glass to release it.

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Thanks. I see that now.

There seems to be a spattering of pics but it would be great to find someone who has taken more systematic pics.

ive been working thru my project HS and noticed when i first got it up and running...all the flashers seemed dim (compared to my F-14) I inspected the flashers last nite....almost all were #67s. Specs require #63s. I guess the previous owner didnt like bright flashers....since 67s are 13.5v and 63s are 7v.

I guess as my #89s in my F-14 burn out, i can replace the with these 67s ...without too much brightness drop.

People use the #67 and #89 bulbs as replacements because they last forever in this game. #63 bulbs will burn out every year in home use games, but they are sure bright!

My HS will will go back "on route" per say in my business for the public to play. Basically ppl can play my personal collection of pins in my bar/dance hall. At 25¢ a pop of course. But im only open weekends so it wont be on 24/7....just fri,sat,sun for 6-7hrs a nite.

Also the #63 bulbs are wired is series, so when one bulb burns out both bulbs don't light up. You can rewire them in parallel and use #67 bulbs and they will be just as bright as #63 bulbs, but when one bulb burns out the other bulbs will still work.

Can you tell me where you got the new backglass and how it compares to the original. I need one but am skeptical of the replacements and whether they are bright enough and mirrored enough.

I got it from Classic Playfields. If you order everything together you get a bigger discount.

https://classicplayfields.com/

I haven’t taken it out of its protective wrapper so a close you can’t say. It’s looks good and the mirror isn’t delaminated like my original I can say that. I original isn’t bad, but I figured if I’m restoring it, want it to look the best possible.

Does anyone know what this switch does under the sling shot?

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I believe it's scoring for left and right kick.

Doesn’t that switch go up through the playfield up to the sling shot rubber? This switch I am speaking of is actuated from the sling shot crank arm under the playfield.

No, that is the coil activation switch.

Yes this is a score switch.

Hello, has anyone installed the regular Pin Stadium lights ($299 version) on a High Speed? If so, I was wondering where you connected the flashers and the GI clips to. I'm not getting very good results so far. Thanks!

Thank you. I bought the following switches to replace the two switches that rest against the sling shot rubber. They are calling them a kicker and score switch.

https://www.thepinballwizard.net/playfield-parts/pair-of-slingshot-switches-with-mounting-brackets-sw-1a-114-sw-1a-120/

Due to the brackets they appear to be the correct parts. My confusion is the switch that is under the playfield is also called a score switch. Is it just the same switch minus the bracket?

<is blockquote cite="#8105078">No, that is the coil activation switch.

Yes this is a score switch.

Thank you. I bought the following switches to replace the two switches that rest against the sling shot rubber. They are calling them a kicker and score switch.
https://www.thepinballwizard.net/playfield-parts/pair-of-slingshot-switches-with-mounting-brackets-sw-1a-114-sw-1a-120/
Due to the brackets they appear to be the correct parts. My confusion is the switch that is under the playfield is also called a score switch. Is it just the same switch minus the bracket?

These switches are for newer games that don't use activation switches. The contacts on these switches are gold plated, which are for 5 volts signals.

Below is a page from the manual that shows part numbers for both the activation switch and the score switch for the early system 11 games. The activation switch has tungsten contacts to cope with higher voltage and amperage. I also think this switch is not available anymore. But tungsten contacts last a very long time, you just need to use a metal file to clean the contacts.

hs switch (resized).PNG

Thanks so much for your help.

I guess I’ll have to return them. They are listed under parts for High Speed. I also ordered new crank arms which were listed as compatible with High Speed, those didn’t work out either.

They are newer style too. They are missing the pin on the side that touches the score switch.

Wrong kicker assembly.

My kickback light is on and the kickback is not engaging. I thought there was an issue with the switch. Did the switch edges test with my finger and rolling the ball over the switch with no issues. After playing further I noticed the light is staying lit all the time which led me to beleive I had a kickback that wasn't warranted. Any ideas why this light is staying on?

2 separate issues. If the game is set to easy,the light will never go out. The coil should activate no matter how many times you roll over the switch. If you checked the switch, try checking the coil in coil test. Make sure the apron cover is installed correctly and isn’t hindering the coil. My alignment was off a hair at one time and the coil didn’t always return properly.

Thank you for the suggestions.

The Kickback light staying lit issue must be because the game has the kickback set to easy. I swear sometimes the light is off though.

The Kickback coil works during the test.

It seems like the kickback works the first game but after the first few times it stops working.

Anyone knows where to get the spacers between the tree plastics?

Go to ROBTUNE Pinside page and look up HS TREE SPACERS.

This can happen occasionally

Does anyone know what was the colour of the cabinet inside?
My frendtold me, they were not black from factory. But he has a WPC, not a system 11.

Black.

Yes I like the tree spacers but leaning more to the original look.

They always remind me of big pop Rivets ...in the box

My version of the custom HS traffic light. Just a OEM shell painted and detail added with a very fine point paint pen. Nothing special. Nothing extra to buy. Nothing to rewire. BOOM ...mic drop

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My left kicker suddenly locked on while playing. Turned the machine off right away.

The switches are not touching and nothing seems to be shorted.

Is there something I should check next?

Check the zener diode for this circuit. I think it is ZR-4. If it tests shorted, then cut off one lead and retest the game. If coil doesn't lock anymore then replace it with a 1 watt version.

VitoD1981 It is possible, that the 22uf capacitor that is in series with a 100 ohm resistor and attached across the switch leads, is shorted.

Ensure that the sling switches are both open.
Game off.
Meter set to continuity.
For a reference measurement, measure across the other slingshots switches.
Measure across the suspect slingshot switches.

Did you find one side shorted together?
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.ChrisHiblerPinball.com/Contact
https://www.youtube.com/c/ChrisHiblerPinball
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info

Also what he said too! ^^^^^^

Thank you GRUMPY & @chrishibler.

I checked the kicker leaf switches for continuity but there is not. There is continuity on the left side kicker coil diode though, is that normal? There is also continuity on the right side kicker coil diode too but that coil does not engage as soon as I turn the machine on, only the left side.

Looking at the CPU board I cannot find ZR-4. Can you please help me pinpoint it?

"as soon as I turn the machine on" most likely = shorted drive transistor. It could also be upstream from the drive transistor. This sign indicates that it is not likely to be SST but rather SSD.

They are probably on the solder side of the board. See https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php/Williams_System_9_-_11#MPU_Driver_Boards for more information.

According to the manual it says Q75 is responsible for the left kicker. My multimeter is saying that drive transistor is shorted. It's also saying that Q69, Q71, Q73, Q77 are shorted as well but I did not notice any issues with the functions that go along with those transistors. I am testing by putting the black lead on ground and red lead not top of transistors.

Can you please explain SSD? I am new to this...

I found the zener diodes on the back of board like you mentioned. They appear to be ok.