For the bat:
Fuse F105 in the middle of the big driver board, the one on the far right. 3Amp Slow Blow. Check that fuse with a meter. If the fuse is out, the knocker and the magnet would also not be activating in coil test.
If ONLY the bat is out in coil test, underneath there appears to be a small board with a big transistor (?) connected to the bat coil in the bottom of the playfield picture I'm looking at. Solder connections on these small boards frequently break, so I pull that small board and reflow the solder connections on the bottom of the board.
Coil test is useful because the bat could seem to be out because the switch to the bat button is pushed out of the bottom of the switch assembly! Test your switches in switch test.
It's possible for the driver transistors to be out, but it's not common. The big driver transistor(?) on the small board under the playfield (TIP36) is the first one to check. Then on the Power Driver Board (big board) Q82.
General Illumination is almost always the plugs at J121 and J122 on the power driver board. Browned, blackened connectors. Unplug them, and plug them back in. Check all the fuses with a meter in the lower left corner of the big board (Power Driver Board). Sometimes it's just a 5 amp fuse that get's the general illumination working. And, of course, it could be that all those bulbs are burnt out, or if they are on a lamp board, that the lamp board has cracked solder connections at it's connector.
Slugfest controlled illumination.
The first thing to think about is that it likely isn't the circuitry. I'd look at bulbs (all those bulbs are out), broken solder connections on the green lamp boards at the connectors and only then start thinking that I've got a problem in the lamp rows and columns.
Because of the extremely common problem with the lamp boards having bad solder connections, I'd pull them (one by one) off the bottom of the playfield and resolder their connector pins. Do this first, and you might save quite a bit of troubleshooting!
Next, I would go into test mode, number 10, all lamps and flashers.
Lift the playfield.
Find a working bulb in a black socket. Unscrew it. Some of these are so tight that I have to use pliers!
Find a non-working bulb. Unscrew it.
Put the working black socketed bulb in the non-working board spot.
Does it light? If so, it's likely that the non-working bulb in the black socket you still have in your hand just needs a replacement 555 bulb. Replace the bulb, bend the little copper fingers up a bit, and put it into the vacant working spot (where you pulled a working bulb from).
It's not uncommon to find a 'spot' on these green lamp boards that even when you put a known good black socketed bulb in, doesn't work. This will be either a broken trace, or you'll need a replacement diode to that spot (provided you don't have a quite rare lamp matrix circuitry problem).
One by one, keep swapping known good bulbs into spots that don't light up, and replacing bulbs in black sockets and putting them in spots that are known to work. Frequently I'll have to take the wires at the bottom of a 555 bulb and bend them to the other side of the glass to get the bulb to make connection in the bottom of the socket.
It's possible to have rows and columns out... but it's FAR, FAR more common to just have a lot of bulbs not lighting due to burnt out bulbs and broken solder connections, etc...
After you've done all this, let us know what you found, and if you do have bad lamp rows/columns we can help you further.
Painesville, OH
