Put mylar or a playfield protector on it. Play the crap out of it. I know you don't plan on ever getting rid of it, but when your playtime on it slows down (it always does unless it's your only machine) - THEN do a PF swap. That way you can fall in love with playing it all over again while you are tweaking things on the new playfield's play.

Have you thought of getting a overlay?

Not really, was worried lining it up around already worn/missing paint inserts would look bad.

You recommend?

Ha, good call. Have actually been looking for a 2nd machine. It's the favorite of our 5.

Aside: current machine had sound volume going up and down randomly during tonight's play.

I put one on my xenon. Looks great. Plays a little faster.

Good afternoon, I just finished up a fabric glass cover for someone with a Gorgar. It is 20.5 x 42 inches so sits perfectly on the glass and keeps the dust off. It is available from my Pinside store for $50. Thanks very much.

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1505-duke-pinball/09766-gorgar-glass-cover-

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Looks great.

https://m.facebook.com/groups/3498499426859515/?ref=share&mibextid=S66gvF

Facebook Gorgar and friends share pics fan page.

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Has anyone tried using the Troxel magnet-based drop-target boards? https://troxelrepair.com/product/nmp/

I've been having a devil of a time dialing in the tension on my horseshoe connections to the boards I've got, and I'm almost ready to give up and just get magnets. But I have a strong feeling they'll feel a lot different, because there of course won't be any tension on the drop target.

Just curious to hear everyone else's thoughts on this product.

I am sold out of the Gorgar glass covers until after Christmas. If you are interested in one, please PM me and I can let you know when the next shipment arrives. Thanks for the interest.

I use them in mine. Leagues better than the horse shoes. Highly recommend. Though you should epoxy the magnets to the plastic...I went the super glue route and regretted it. Also depending on your machine, the drop bank next to the lowest pop bumper can give enough interference to cause phantom drops. They sell a small piece of shielding which can resolve the issue if it's one you encounter.

Bought the nmp sensors from oldschoolbob and they work amazingly. Look to be the same as the ones you linked. Definitely need the metal shielding or interference will trigger the targets. Better than new once they are installed and adjusted.

I have a friend doing a playfield swap for me and the upper left kick out hole, the clear got chipped. He is going to touch up but does anybody by chance have an extra Clify kick out hole protector they want to sell?
Shoot me a pm if you do, this would save my day!
Thanks!

Guess it wasn't just me huh? My chipped piece was so large you can still see it with a Cliffy...a bit annoying, but at least that part of the playfield was normally raw wood anyway so no art lost.

New micro playfield? Have debated new of vs trying to do touch up paint on mine plus heavy clear.

How do you guys who have done it like the new PFs?

I found everything fits pretty well, I know people have talked about alignment issues on other Mirco playfields. The only notable difference I had were the location of the drill holes for the metal stop on the side shot which was easy to re-drill/move.

From a looks standpoint I think it's great, the art is quite nice. The main issues lie in clear coat chipping. I had a minor piece chip near my left sling and if that were the only spot I wouldn't really fault it. The main issue is the left side shot kicker. When the solenoid actuates to kick the ball out it very often causes the clear around the hole to chip. I had it chip once, kept playing, then it happened again, and it just took the clear basically from all around the front face of the hole before I could fit a cliffy to it. So while it's mostly hidden, I still know underneath it's all chipped :/ All things considered there's no art there and on the original playfield that's just exposed wood even, could be worse I suppose.

The time and effort it takes however is significant, I'd say maybe 80 hours. That's not a throw away amount of time for sure...Going the hard top route would definitely be less time, or if you're willing to re-level/replace inserts you can save a lot of time. Mine had cupped inserts everywhere and severely raised inserts to the point I wanted to try replacing the whole thing. Now it looks and plays great, but those clear coat chips still nag at me.

thanks for that sparksterz

Local guy apoxy'd my cupped inserts. Thinking more and more about doing touch ups and then a heavy clear.

Yeah, if you're going to pull it for a clear, worst case you can leave the bottom populated and hard top it. These play fields come out super easy luckily

So I put the 5 bank set on my Alien Poker since that game is VERY dependent on the drop targets tracking correctly. My observations:
-The drops trigger perfect every time (Alien Poker doesn't appear to have the same need for shielding)
-You want your plastic drop target guides to be as near perfect as possible, specifically the lip that the drops themselves rest on. 3D printed replacements work, but will want to orient your print in such a way that these lips are really clean.
-There are two different types of drops in this era, T and L shaped bottoms. They respond differently when the horseshoes are gone. If one isn't working for you, consider giving the other a go
-In my AP I found the sensitivity was just too high with the NMP's set up stock. There is nothing stopping you from keeping the horseshoes ON the drops with the NMP setup. I did this on my machine and used some copper trace tape on the back of the NMP boards themselves (be very careful not to short anything with it) so that they were a point of resistance against the horseshoes, just like from factory. If you want to lighten the tension, you can cut off one side of the horseshoe since they are only a spring mechanism now, not serving any electrical purpose. I have yet to see any interference issues by having the horseshoes/trace tape on the NMP boards.

In this week it's exactly 44 years ago when GORGAR was officially presented in Germany at the "IMA 1980" in Frankfurt am Main ("IMA" ---> "Internationale Münz-Automaten-Ausstellung" or "International Coin-Machine-Exhibition")
As everyone born before the 70ies will remember, Pinball was absolutely huge in those days, also in Germany. GORGAR was mentioned in the news and even in ordinary family-magazines like this ...

It reads:
PINBALL-MACHINE CAN EVEN SPEAK
The latest Hit for Pinball-Fans: A Machine that's able to speak. If Gorgar, the red Monster, gets hit, he moans: YOU HURT ME. And he praises the Winner with shattering Voice: YOU BEAT ME. Gorgar only speaks english though. Pinball-Fans put a Billion Deutschmark in Machines every year.
Below Picture: GORGAR growls if the Player beats him.

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Can someone post a picture of their knocker? Troubleshooting mine since it isn't working. Does the game need to be off free play for the solenoid to fire even for diagnostics? This is a new to me game and a known issue when I purchased it but it is on free play.

In free play no knocker but should still work in diagnostics.

Thanks, I was thinking that may be the case. It does not work in diagnostics.

Anyone ever try precision flippers on their game? Been thinking about it lately. Also, I changed all my lights to LEDs. I may change the front 4 back to incandescent because those are so brights when 2x 3x are lit I can't see the ball.

The best Gorgar mod is a sub woofer.

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I ordered a new cabinet woofer and have a 100W amp to connect to it. Not sure how well that will work, but hoping I can get a little more kick out of the heartbeat.

Gotta put another order in for Precisions shortly, looking at Gorgar with evil intentions. I have a couple of gold Halo's here, but thinking solids will be more suited. If i buy new ones it'll probs be red with black rubbers.

That's great. Before I got my Gorgar I was looking at a Firepower. Nice

Awesome. About to start on a full restore of my Gorgar.
Got a nice line up now of my favourite Williams..
Gorgar, Firepower, Blackout and Defender. Just looking for a Black Knight to finish it off.

I have the same line up. Great combo just need a Black Knight to finish the trio.

Anyone have a spare drop target plastic kicking around they don't need? ... the middle one in front of the pops. thanks -A

Is this what you are talking about?

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Those were my first 2 machines. Wanted to do Black Knight third also but figured I should get something a little more modern.

Sorry, no. Looking for the playfield plastic with artwork on it. Thanks

Gorgar, Firepower and Black Knight are definitely a great trio. I remember the 3 machines lined up in the 80s at my local arcade. People were crowding around them.

That's what I thought they needed also. The saga continues,,,,

Yeah, I guess I worded that poorly. I need this playfield plastic that is circled! thanks

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That is what pyrotech showed you without the decals on it.

Not the drop target, the playfield plastic, triangle-ish brown and yellow piece that mounts on top of the star posts. Thanks

Got it, My mistake.

I may have an old one. I will check but it will be late tonight.

I do have an old one. It looks good to me, I can send a photo to you if you like?

Great! Sent you a message. Thanks

I am working on a Gorgar for a friend and none of the solenoids are firing except the flippers still work. Everything else appears to be working fine. I couldn’t find any obvious disconnected wires on any of the solenoids. And advice you can give me to help troubleshoot this? Thanks!

How does the 40 pin connector look?

I will check next time I’m at my friends looking at his machine. I’ll probably go back over there next week hopefully with some more insight on what might be the problem.

I finally join the club! A nice Gorgar followed me, to expand my sys 3-7 collection! This machine is from USA.. the previous owner lived near San Francisco for 20 years and when he decided to return to Italy, he took it with him (along with lots of other cool stuff). So it needs to be converted for 220V use (change bridges on the blue connector, varistor, etc etc) and a boards check because it will have been off for at least 15 years. Here you are a little pic once unloaded at home, with its quarters

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Awesome!

Just waiting for my new cabinet and cleared playfield to show and it is next on my list to restore....

Click here to find out how to enable the credit knocker even when the game is set to freeplay