TIME TO MAKE THE DONUTS

I have chosen to dry decal the cabinet, inspired by High_End_Pins as usual. This is basically the same post I put in Vid's cabinet restoration thread.

When I need to weigh stuff down, I pile it on books to distribute the weight to avoid having pressure indentations on the decal or cabinet.

Lay down your cabinet on one side, and roughly line up the decal for that side. Lightly weigh down one side to avoid large shifts of the decal when shifting it into position. Measure the sides (and do a little math) to make sure you have consistent edges and a good amount of border to remove.

PXL_20210326_213507703.NIGHT (resized).jpg

Then add a LOT more weight to that side in order to "lock in" that side.

PXL_20210327_031629593 (resized).jpg

Lay the unsecured side of the decal over the weighted side, peel back half the backing and cut that half of the backing in a single stroke. TAKE YOUR TACK RAG AND CLEAN THE EXPOSED HALF OF THE CABINET THIS IS THE LAST CHANCE YOU WILL HAVE TO CLEAN ANY TRASH. Also eyeball your exposed decal for any obvious hair or dirt it may have picked up while being exposed. Then pull the sticky side of the decal *tightly* down over the exposed side and gently squeegee out the bubbles out to the sides. I got a 4 in foam covered squeegee to prevent scratches. Keep doing this until the bubbles are eliminated.

PXL_20210327_042848854 (resized).jpg

Transfer your weighted objects to the other side and repeat the process! You won't have to cut the backing on the second pass of course, but it is worth putting the weight down to avoid pulling up the decal you laid down.

PXL_20210327_042805604 (resized).jpg

Lay it out, line it up:

PXL_20210326_222713575 (resized).jpg

Peel it and stick it.

PXL_20210326_223725714 (resized).jpg

Get them bubbles out and do it again on the other side.

A great tip I picked up from High_End_Pins is to SAND OFF THE EDGES instead of cutting them. You'll be terrified of that but it works. It works! Take about a 220 flat sanding block and sand your decaled edges (you DO have sharp edges on your corners, right) at about a 30 degree angle. This trims and seals the decal against the cabinet and gives a clean edge that matches factory. Fill the exposed front and back edges with oil-based pen, like an OIL-BASED Sharpie. Don't use acrylic, don't use Testor's model paint, don't use a Sharpie from your junk drawer. Get an oil-based ink marker pen.

All of this is better said by Chris:

Clench your butt and sand the decals.

As an aside, the most difficult decal to do was the front of the cabinet. The rest were easy(er). Lining up the start button along with measuring eight different locations to ensure uniformity was very difficult. I found you do not have to put anything in the coin door hole if you pull your decal TIGHT. Let the decal do that work. Otherwise do the weighting on one side, peel it back, squeegee it down, shift the weight, just like the sides.

Just like Chris' video, get a thick dowel and wrap it in 220 paper to carve through some of the edges, and sand away around the start button. You don't have to be ultra super careful in any of these cutout areas except for the start button. Everything else is going to be covered by the coin door, shooter hardware, flipper buttons, or legs. Don't be sloppy and carless - DO trim it and sand it on the edges, but don't kill yourself over being perfect in these areas. That start button though - get it right.

Pre cut the bolt holes in the head and cabinet as well. Super dee duper sharp new blade in the Xacto knife.

It ends up like this:

PXL_20210327_063828661 (resized).jpg

PXL_20210327_063852408 (resized).jpg

If you are putting on cabinet protectors AND YOU SHOULD loosely fit the protectors onto the leg and cut back an area a bit larger than the protector itself. This prevents the decal from bunging up, which is the whole reason we were doing this.

PXL_20210328_021555251 (resized).jpg

It's funny, I have an order with Mouser that has some standoffs that would probably be perfect and it's been on backorder since January. Of course I also have some capacitors that are on the same order and I can't get any of it until those standoffs come in. Good times.

Thanks for those part numbers.

Let's put the guts back in.

So after cleaning the boards I figured I'd start with the rebuild of the head first.

The first move is to put on the T-molding. I unfortunately do not have pictures, but this is a straightforward process - clear any trash from the existing groove carved into the head using any metal dowel. Anything in the groove can interfere with insertion of the T-molding. For the corers, cut a v-shape groove into the molding track you are inserting. This is a bit of an art. Buy extra.

For OUTSIDE curves you cut a V into the molding to avoid compression, and for INSIDE curves just cut slits into the molding.

Really best demonstrated in video:

And yes use softer mallets to install - last thing you want to have is a bunch of discoloring from hammering the plastic too hard.

Here we are with the molding installed, and the ground braid - I'll go over that a bit in the main cabinet.

PXL_20210328_181707454 (resized).jpg

I... forgot to clean the knocker mech. :/

PXL_20210327_175549669 (resized).jpg
PXL_20210327_175703228 (resized).jpg

Much better!

PXL_20210328_195457132 (resized).jpg

Cleaned and polished the lightboard brackets, rear mesh, and knocker and installed them over top of the ground braid.

PXL_20210329_171432573 (resized).jpg
PXL_20210329_165438334 (resized).jpg
PXL_20210331_160806351 (resized).jpg
PXL_20210401_235955182 (resized).jpg
PXL_20210331_160810972 (resized).jpg

So, I took the time to put a message in the game for the next poor sucker who has to work on this thing.

PXL_20210401_025537377 (resized).jpg

Made new decals from Inkochnito and his most excellent website. http://www.pinballrebel.com/pinball/cards/ PAY THEM MAN FOR HIS WORK.

I used inkjet decal paper and adjusted the print size to better match the original decals. The bottom is default print size, the top is at about 106%. It's worth messing with.

PXL_20210401_163539404 (resized).jpg

After thoroughly blowing out the dust, I left two ground braids exposed to allow for grounding to the board backplate and remounted the boards *after the plate was installed.* I set what wires I could, but left most of them loose in order to leave room to cram the playfield harnesses in.

PXL_20210401_235933604 (resized).jpg

Reinstall the speaker panel after a light dusting. Speakers are delicate.

For the speaker grille, CAREFULLY rivet the Bally logo to the mesh and mount the mesh to the head with the security bits.

So your silver trim looks like crap on your speaker grille?

Go to O'Rielly Auto Parts!

PXL_20210402_030006407 (resized).jpg

For real that stuff is absolutely perfect. And cheap.

Straight cut one side of the trim piece, and slowly unravel the backing as you lay it onto the grille.

PXL_20210402_030313259 (resized).jpg
PXL_20210402_030016416 (resized).jpg

It's perfect. Absolutely perfect.

PXL_20210402_030556967 (resized).jpg

My original translite is in wonderful shape. I cannot get over the depth of color in this thing. So gorgeous. Light cleaning on the front and back and dried it off thoroughly.

PXL_20210402_034441725 (resized).jpg

Replaced the translite trim and absolutely scrubbed the glass to remove the aged stains from it and...

PXL_20210402_040511741 (resized).jpg

Not bad at all.

Rewiring the main cabinet:

We're getting close to the finish line here.

PXL_20210328_181651465 (resized).jpg

I really like the straight clean lines of ground braid and it just looks sharp next to the black paint to the floor. Really love this look. Pull your ground braid tight and staple in your turns and transition areas. I ran ground on both sides in otder to hit the power input and have a cleaner path to the transformer and speaker.

PXL_20210328_181659043 (resized).jpg

Installed new style leg brackets! Based on recommendations from nearly everyone in the world, I installed modern leg brackets in the corners. You can looseley install the legs into the legs backets to position them correctly and fasten a couple screws when they are nice and straight. Again these are laying on top of the ground braid to allow for good connectivity. The screws are available from Amazon of course. 3/4" wood screws, black phosphate.

PXL_20210329_193425693 (resized).jpg
PXL_20210329_193429403 (resized).jpg

Here we are with rear and front brackets installed:

PXL_20210329_195352167 (resized).jpg
PXL_20210329_195400776 (resized).jpg

To create new ground braid screw connectors, lay a generous amount of solder onto the connector, widen your ground braid and insert the soldered connector, and then add another generous amount of solder to the braid, basically fusing the connector to the braid. The connectors can be purchased from Pinrestore.

PXL_20210330_001844931 (resized).jpg
PXL_20210330_002027958 (resized).jpg

LOOK AT THEM PURTY HANDS

I had to widen some holes in my speaker grille to square it up. This took longer than I expected.

PXL_20210330_002521683 (resized).jpg

Speaker is placed along with a long pigtail for ground.

PXL_20210330_003038956 (resized).jpg

Maybe it's overkill but I put cabinet protectors on for the flippers because:

PXL_20210330_173643535 (resized).jpg

YUCK.

WOW ISN'T IT STRANGE MY POPEYE DOESN'T HAVE COLOR REMOVAL AROUND THE FLIPPERS WOW LET'S PONDER THAT

PXL_20210330_173653764 (resized).jpg

Anyway, I just want Elvira to look good for a long time:

PXL_20210330_173603662 (resized).jpg

PXL_20210330_173620252 (resized).jpg

Installed the reconditioned lockbar receiver. I allowed myself a signature here.

PXL_20210330_175926574 (resized).jpg
PXL_20210330_175937751 (resized).jpg

No, I am not Lloyd Christmas.

You can also see I cleaned and polished the transformer, as well as black BBQ painted the exterior.

Installed receiver brackets and coin door.

PXL_20210330_234231133 (resized).jpg
PXL_20210330_234257926 (resized).jpg

Look on the right of the door under the memory protect switch - that is clear aquarium tubing covering the ground braid which is then attached to the cabinet ground. Get rid of the old yellowed tubing!

And yeah, I got a little sloppy with the ground braid on the left side. Enh.

Also look at that gorgeous serial number sticker over there! Again, that was custom from Inkochnito .

Looks good from this angle too:

PXL_20210330_234416773 (resized).jpg

Note that I installed new glass receivers on the cabinet. Install them just like T-molding - clear out the groove and super dee duper carefully rubber mallet them into the groove.

The volume control was scratchy when I removed it, and since I ran it through the dishwasher the chances of it working are basically nil, so:

PXL_20210331_024524943 (resized).jpg
PXL_20210331_025444070 (resized).jpg

THIS PART SUCKED.

Installing new side rails.

Old ones ripped off the decal and were rusty and dented from... what else... a head crash.

PXL_20210331_050113525 (resized).jpg

After installing the glass guides, it was time to install the side rails. Unfortunately the new rails' holes were off by like 1/8 inch on mine, so I had to fill, glue, and redrill. That was really frustrating to be honest as I was expecing it to Just Work.

Pinrestore sells 3m double sided super sticky tape to secure the rails to the sides. It's mega fun to get all over areas that aren't the rails. Super hard to cut, also.

PXL_20210331_050247226 (resized).jpg
PXL_20210331_050255526 (resized).jpg

I secured the rails to the cabinet with clamps and let it sit overnight.

look at that serial number decal look at it i command you to looooook at it

sparkle sparkle

PXL_20210331_170435587 (resized).jpg

Polished and mounted the tilt bob. I started to replace the tilt bob rod but it was a yucky gray, so I cleaned the heck out of the original to allow for a nice shine.

PXL_20210401_013717372 (resized).jpg

New decals including serial stickers again. Replaced the flipper switches since the old ones were bent badly.

PXL_20210401_024617355 (resized).jpg

PXL_20210401_024630342 (resized).jpg

PXL_20210401_024624114 (resized).jpg

Mounting the head by yourself

Install the head brackets:

BY THE WAY I MESSED UP HERE AND DIDN'T PUT THE LOCK WASHERS IN
I WENT BACK AND PUT THEM IN
DON'T BE A GOOFUS

PXL_20210402_042734136 (resized).jpg
PXL_20210402_042739843 (resized).jpg

Then place the head onto the cabinet with a LOT of padding to avoid redenting the speaker grille or trim. I placed a long 2x2 with generous padding onto the cabinet rails and rested the head on that - resting the T-molding on the padding. Secure the head onto the cabinet by placing the bolts into the hinges and drawing it up using the nuts.

It's easier than it sounds:

PXL_20210402_143704633 (resized).jpg

The excitement starts!

Actually this is not that exciting.

Ran the power cables into the cabinet to the head, and ran new scoreboard and audio ribbon cables, prayed, turned it on and...

Huh. It worked.

Man your threads are an inspiration. Thank YOU for posting them.

I did, actually - followed your thread and used washers to raise it in both the bottom and the top locations. That worked out very well since the shooter lane mount is cut WAY too deep on the CPR playfield. My shooter has the same clearance as yours now.

I found that using a ball with one of those wand-extendable magnets is a great tool to look for clearance on rails and switch actuation.

I won't go through this much but I also had a problem where the metal shooter lane plate was making the ball rattle all the way up the shooter rail. The problem was the wooden rail was too far in to the left which was causing the ball to bounce off the plate, so I had to pull on the wooden rail and redrill to force the rail to be out just a *bit* more. I figured that out by using slow motion on my cell.

Let me also say your thread was absolutely inspiring and I cannot thank you enough for your documenting of the process.

And finally, I am not a machine like you are hah. The game's already done, I am just posting my experience and documenting it.

Installing the playfield:

It just worked with no major issues. I was stunned. I was expecting sparks and flames and clowns, but it just worked. I did it myself by putting some felt on the rear 1/4 of the playfield sides to ensure there weren't going to be any scratches on the cabinet. Like a glove.

A few minor issues:

The right ramp was using 1/4" screws to hold the bottom of the ramp into the playfield, and because of the thickness of the ramp plastic these were barely gripping into the wood, they needed to be replaced with #4 5/8" screws.

A diode needed replaced on my 2X skull - very surprising! The light was just dim.

PXL_20210404_172836335 (resized).jpg

Here is where I replaced the coil sleeve on the VUK - it needs to be short enough for the VUK cup to lower and hit the switch:

PXL_20210404_164719244 (resized).jpg

The rightmost Deadhead light needed adjusted because the bulb socket wasn't getting good leverage on the LED bulb.

Oh - after clamping the flippers I didn't adjust the End of Stroke switch well enough so I smoked a fuse. D'oh.

Top pop bumper was SLIGHTLY too sensitive, just opened the gap a little. Now it's a party.

Oh - and one more thing and an easy fix. The wonderful skull lock launch ramp wasn't getting good clearance over the blob plastic and into the pops, so placing a washer on the TOP SIDE of the placefield under the ramp helped greatly with that. Now it launches like mad into the center of the pops. Really great.

PXL_20210403_032616755 (resized).jpg

PXL_20210403_045820529 (resized).jpg

Walking tour of the finished product!

I can't tell you how happy I am with this thing, and it's all because I took my time.

PXL_20210404_022857151 (resized).jpg

I really like the Inkochnito replacement decals. Really dresses up the machine.

PXL_20210404_022934836 (resized).jpg

The translite looks like it is a little yellow, but that's LED's on a phone cam for you. The translite is so beautiful in person.

PXL_20210404_023006182 (resized).jpg

Couple playfeld shots:

PXL_20210404_023200121 (resized).jpg
PXL_20210404_022954769 (resized).jpg

I kept the original Boogie Men! These guys are great.

PXL_20210404_023019141 (resized).jpg

Again, the replacement decals are just the best.

PXL_20210404_020446979 (resized).jpg

I am very glad I decided to paint down to the floor. It looks so, so sharp.

PXL_20210404_023236469 (resized).jpg
PXL_20210404_023935306 (resized).jpg

I have the original flyer and a signed plastic from Elvira herself. I'd love to get the translite signed someday.

PXL_20210404_024242484 (resized).jpg

I allowed myself a couple signatures of my own - there's the aforementioned one behind the boards in the head, and then I added some of these under the playfield as wel as L. Christmas.

PXL_20210404_023538134 (resized).jpg

And added this as my right instruction card:

Free Play Card with Border (resized).png

I like to add trivia and history on my games. I'm still working on the text because it's a little disjointed.

For LED lighting and coloring, I like to color match inserts except orange and yellow. Orange gets pink (yes, pink, it makes the orange show up very bright!) and yellow gets cool white. On this game, white inserts get cool white.

GI gets warm white. I do not and will not ever put color under plastics. Plastics have color already; you want to highlight *that* color.

Translite gets warm white with bendies behind Elvira and other areas to dissipate the light better and avoid having little dots behind the translite. I do not color translites.

I use Comet 2 SMD LEDs.