I am going to have to do some searching to find an SD card smaller than 32gb. At least locally. I have now tried 4 different 32 gb cards and 8 64gb cards, trying to get a booting LISY80. In most cases the LISY80 led goes green. In EVERY Case the pi blinks yellow and error blinks red AND the green led on the Pi goes solid. So it doesn't seem to actually be booting. I have three LISY80's built with 3 different Pies and all give the same results.

Night moves is not on the approved list. I’m guessing this is an oversight, but would like verification before getting into it.

Are these compatible with night moves?

Not sure but when I can dig out my Night Moves I will test it. The LISY80 has worked awesome in other 80B games so I expect it will work ok.

I have tried numerous times to make a debug log. It refuses to do it. I set switch 7 to on, power it up and wait until the error light starts to blink.
The Green LED on the pi itself is solid at this point. Pressing the switch S3 does nothing. The led on the pi never blinks and no debug log is ever written to the debug folder under lisy80.

Yes I have. That file never updates either. I have been trying to get it to work in a Monte Carlo and no, no displays light up.
I haven't been able to program any PICs as I can't get it to boot. I've lately been trying to get it to do the Debug on my bench with a 2 amp wall charger and USB cable. Still no luck.

I would carefully inspect the board for any solder bridges, etc. Also check the orientation of all parts and if they are the correct values.

I've never used the surface mount version but the regular LISY80 using through hole parts does work in Monte Carlo.

From what you're describing it sounds like there may be a HW problem on your particular board.

No, I was following the quick start guide, and based on it, it seemed like it should be bootable prior to programming the PICs. So I am much further now, but no displays. So I have a bunch of work ahead of me.

Thank you all very much!

How do I find System 1 files for these games? I need help with making the SD card files. I guess it only works on one game at a time? You need a different SD file for each different game? Has anyone made up some files and shares them?

Before I put in an order, does anyone have a system 80 driver and display board for sale?

Hi,

I am having problems with a Rocky: it has a Lisy80 MPU, powersupply is ok and as driverboard, I used the Godri80 and the original driverboard with the same results.
The fault: game starts, I can put credits on and start a game. Then nothings happen, the ball counter just goes from 1 to 3 and it' s game over. The weird part is, in test mode all the solenoids do work, I have no slam tilt and there is a ball in the outhole. If i manually remove the ball, it stops counting up until the ball is in the outhole again. During the time when the ball is out of the outhole, no solenoid is working when the corresponding switch is triggered.
What am I missing ?

grtz

you should fire up the board with the lisy control enabled. Start a game and then put it on the switch test page and see what is registering. Try it with the ball in and out of the trough.

Just assembled two disp80 credit displays and getting nothing. Original display works fine. Used a 5261aw for the led. Its common cathode but wondering if it is wrong?

https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256805466764518.html?spm=a2g0n.order_detail.order_detail_item.4.6cc7f19cz3pgnz&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa

This is running off a pascal board. I tested this in another game with 7 digit displays and my disp80 7 digits work in it, but not the 4 digit. Gonna just order the recommended locn led digits.

Also, got a good source for the led digits for 6 digit displays? The link on your website is bad.

Thanks, finally got the time to check it out; one of the tilt switches was always closed. Now i can start a game.

Having a weird display issue with 1.31 PCBs on a Bally Frontier.

All displays are off until I take off and put the furthest right jumper (left block) back on.

Then the display is only on for about 5 seconds. Taking the jumper off and putting it back on does the same thing, all displays.

I was thinking a solder bridge perhaps or bad solder joint, but maybe it's not that?

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1q9KzWJCWDNGhrNUsf_IorLjOxBaaEl2y/view?usp=sharing

Are the displays supposed to work on Stern too? If so, how is the 7th digit connected? Some LED displays connect pins 11 and 12 together so it will work in with Bally or Stern. But that causes issues on some games.

I didn't read much up on it, but there's some sort of mod needed to get 6 digit games to work in 7 digit mode (Bally).

The leftmost jumpers (three of them) are either on the 7 digit (mod) style (top), or 6/7 (bottom).

Same action I get either 7 or 6/7 jumpered.

Oh, furthermore - with Fuse 2 in on the rectifier board, the OG displays work just fine.

Bally uses pin 12 for Digit 7 and Stern uses pin 11 for Digit 7. Normally pin 11 isn't used on Bally and pin 12 isn't use on Stern so often you can get away with just tying pins 11 and 12 together to make it more of a universal display.

Unfortunately the "unused" pins aren't always unused. I don't know if Stern ever did anything with the unused pin 12 but Bally does use pin 11 on some games. In particular Mr and Mrs Pacman used it to route another display signal to pin 11. Probably to make cabling easier and they knew it was safe since pin 11 wasn't connected to anything. It is only became a problem when LED replacement displays became common and then pins 11 and 12 were tied together. The fix is to either pop out the pin 11 on the display connectors on the affected game or just cut and separate pins 11 and 12 and use a jumper on the display so that only pin 11 or pin 12 is connected. I ran into this myself on a Mr and Mrs Pacman. I had heard there is at least one other game that did this but am not sure of the title.

It would be nice to see pins 11 and 12 brought out to a .100" jumper to select which pin should drive the 7th digit. That would eliminate the issue completely. Could use a jumper on a .100" 3 pin header ro just solder a strap in place.

I have verified from pin 20 to the 'test hole' I have continuity. Is this what you're asking?

IMG_20240419_182939364 (resized).jpg

Dang! I didn't spot that!

I will get those added and post back.

Can confirm, my derp was on full show when I assembled these. I think it wasl JLPCB, and I had the 10K trimmer pots and caps.

All good in the 'hood.

Thanks bontango !

IMG_20240420_121107900 (resized).jpg

Oh, and also I have to redesign the 3d printed 'baffle' for these displays as mine was done WITHOUT the cap or trim pot in mind Or just cut the holes with an x-acto.

I did. I took a hammer to it. I had hard soldered the pi zero in and the usb slot broke so it wouldnt run. I desoldered it and pulled a trace. Ran a jumper, but from that point on I could not get the programmer to detect the pic chip. Honestly, I am wasting more time on it than its worth so I am just going to buy one.