This bothered me so much that I installed a post in that location right after I got my Centaur!

So I see on the back glass "extra ball." But, I don't think I'll ever see that light up. How do you do it? Where in the settings does extra balls kick in?

The gate assembly top edge floats on top of the plastic piece.
The gate assembly is mounted with two 6-32 machine screws along with #6 external tooth lock washers.
One can see the external tooth lock washer imprint on the gate assembly.

Only if you set replays to payout extra balls.

Yep, I guess I'm asking how to achieve this. Also is there not a way for special to be set for it?

https://www.ipdb.org/files/476/Bally_1981_Centaur_Manual.pdf

page 8

I know there are various previous posts in this thread discussing the attract mode GI flashing, how to bypass it, and the resulting disabling of the blackout during a ball launched from the "orb release tunnel". I'm trying to come up with something which will still have orb release black outs, but not the annoying attract flash. Basically, to have the attract GI flash slower / less frequent, and/or fade on and off. I'm hoping it's just a matter of putting some variable resistor (for the frequency) and capacitor (for the fade) somewhere in line with the triac circuit.

Dunno if it will be possible, but geez it would be a welcomed modification. I'll let y'all know what I find..

GIFLASHERSCHEM (resized).jpg

You can probably disable the attract mode G.I. flashing (so the G.I. is always on) in game over mode by using the Game Over lamp control wire with a diode to keep the flasher on. When the Game Over lamp is off it will have no effect on the G.I. flashing in game mode.

Try either of these solutions:

1) Jumper a wire from the bottom leg of resistor R14 on the lamp driver board to the non-banded side of a diode. Jumper another wire from the banded side of the diode to the top leg of resistor R33 on the lamp driver board. These resistors/locations are dependent on having a factory Bally lamp driver board. Probably better to use a low dropout diode like a 1N5819 but a 1N400x might do.

or

2) Jumper a wire from the game over lamp (Grey-White wire) to the banded side of a diode. Jumper another wire from the non-banded side of the diode to the White-Black wire at the flasher trigger lamp.

Which ever way you go try to make it easily reversible for the next owner.

I'm in the process of finishing up populating my centaur playfield. can I use LEDs in the top left captive ball lane lights or do those have to be incandescent? This game has been apart so long I can't remember.

why couldn't you go led all around? I replaced the original sockets with bayonet sockets and I recall in that area I had to used a deeper socket as those bulbs sit lower on the playfield, but other than that I don't see why not...I'm using altek boards, but haven't powered them up yet...cabinet is taking me forever to paint...

Aren't they controlled lights that won't work with led? I can't remember.

I don't know, maybe a quick search on this thread?...I know alltek boards handle them no problem....if you have the original boards, you may need the non ghosting leds...all controlled lamps are done via scr's on the original boards, not sure whats used on the alltek.

edit see post 595 from 7 yrs ago ...just search leds...various different issues with them...

I've disabled the GI strobing during attract mode, however the chamber lamps will strobe during attract mode (on the loop that highlights the different "features"), as do the lamps under the slingshot plastics. When a game starts, they turn on steady, as do the lamps under the slingshot plastics. Anything happening during a game has no effect on those lamps, as they remain on for the duration of the game.

What did you do to accomplish this?

Here is a shot of my playfield...(sitting against the wall in my basement) but if these are the lamps you're referring to, they are controlled as they each have their own wire going to them...

20240329_142754 (resized).jpg

Those lamps are control feature lamps and not GI lamps.
The Thumper Bumpers have the same algorithms as the slingshot lamps.

There’s a triac down by the power supply. Locate the lines attached to it and disconnect the connectors. You can just set them aside, as you won’t use them. Then attach the connectors that remain. This allows the GI to bypass the triac that controls that strobing during attract mode.

IMG_7633 (resized).jpeg

IMG_7634 (resized).jpeg

This switch that’s fixed midway up the orbs deployment channel on my game doesn’t have an actuator wire that allows a ball to roll back down if it doesn’t deploy properly. I’ve tried removing the wire, but it’s attached so tightly that I’m afraid I’ll damage the switch. I can’t seem to source a new switch and actuator wire. Can anybody point me in the right direction?

IMG_7635 (resized).jpeg

You should have gotten a time machine, and go back to the 1980's
to your local Bally distributor. Then you could order the part that is broken.
1) you need to use what you have and fined the wire actuator raw part.
1a) shape the part like the old broken one and add the missing part that someone cut off.
1b) reference photos or ask a pinsider to take clean clear photos of the part.

1) Just about every other part I’ve had to source on all nine of my early ss Ballys is available at the various online pinball parts suppliers, so I guess I just didn’t think a “time machine” would be necessary.
1a) As I mentioned, I tried removing the actuator wire but have not been successful. And whaddya know, I was even prepared to use what I have. I Still am.
1b) I already know what I need. No photos will be necessary.

Appreciate the feedback.

https://twistedquarter.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=1074

You should be able to use this and shape the actuator. The Bally parts book should have a drawing off the proper shape of you can just do whatever works.

my switch looks the same, I didn't realize it was not supposed to be that way...but it makes sense that it should allow the ball to move each way...something else to do...

Awesome, thank you!

It’s the same exact shape as an inlane or outlane wireform. It just needs to let a ball roll both ways. Not exactly sure yet what’s happening there, but for some reason my game seems to occasionally drop two balls into the channel when only one is supposed to enter it. It’s only happened a couple times, but it will somehow get a ball stuck in front of that switch. Once I fix the switch, I have to delve into the rest. Fun!

I’m trying to make a Centaur light panel. Could a kind Centaur owner please post a clear, square on pic of their backbox light panel so I could scale and trace bulb socket locations. I would greatly appreciate it. Thanks!