does anyone know a part number for the ribbon?

https://www.pinsound-community.org/index.php?/topic/13143-a-better-way-using-ai-for-sound-bytes/
Listen to the crystal clear file I attached.
You'll want to use this to clean up your file. Ignore the name - you can remove either vocal or music/background noise.
https://vocalremover.org/

wms_wpc_backbox_assembly.jpg

If one is bad, its likely all should be replaced.

Get the whole set.

Was the fuse kit at some point installed from factory?

Not that I'm aware of. IMHO it was an RGP 'preventative maintenance fix' way back in the day.

For the magnets?

No

I ran my file thru the robot and...WOW !

Thank you so much for this!

I uploaded the new version of the TAF boot.wav to the community at pinsound.

It sounds really good.

Now I guess, Ill have to run all of the original orchestration files thru it.

The end result should be STELLAR!

Get version 2 of this file here:

https://www.pinsound-community.org/index.php?/files/file/435-addams-family-taf-bootwav/

Thanks. Looks like both versions are there but it’s not clear which one is the newer cleaned up version. Is it the top one or the bottom one in the list?

IMG_5752 (resized).jpeg

let me look at it
Its the top one 332.79 kbs

I honestly had a problem telling between the two files you posted but they both still sounded very "airy" so I used one of your files and ran it through again. Zero music and full vocal and now it's as I expected. Maybe you accidentally posted the wrong file the second time around?

Let me take a look again

I figured out how to remove the other files. Only one file should download now.

This one sounds the best, I ran it thru the remover again and it seems very good.

I went over there and downloaded the file, no problems.

It sounds pretty good!

Please check my work.

https://www.pinsound-community.org/index.php?/files/file/435-addams-family-taf-bootwav/

Hey y’all thing takes my ball and doesn’t return it. Here is the casing. I am wondering if I should leave this bent? Or hammer it back.
It seemed nice and tight when I removed the screws.
Once I raise the playing field the ball goes where it needs to go.
Thanks in advance for any advice

Also could you guys tell me where you have your level bubble? Can someone upload a image of it? Thanks

IMG_7632 (resized).jpeg

yeah hammer that flat...its probably hanging up right at that divot/bend

I read some when on here to bend it like that. But I bought the machine and it can like that bent

Yep, hammer if flat, it was flat from the factory.

No one uses bubble levels much any more.

Get a small digital torpedo level and set the playfield surface (NOT THE GLASS) to 6.5 degrees to start with.

So it turns out that it had a small dent where the ball keeps landing. It's wasn't very easy to see, but it did have a dent where the ball falls. You could barely see the darn thing. How annoying, but thing is back up and running again.

I’ve got a used original Smoke ramp in nice condition available for $150+shipping if anyone needs one and wants to keep their ramp smokes. Starship fantasy has a nice new reproduction for $184, but only option is clear if you go brand new.

Powered up my TAF today and got this. Anyone care to take a stab as to what might be wrong? I reset all connectors to CB's. Visually checked fuses. Will check fuses with DMM next, but thought I would see if anyone has any ideas as to where to start. No boot sound, no power to Playfield, no lights on back box. 4 LED's lit up on the Power driver board, no lights on the CPU board. Garbled display.

IMG_6365 (resized).JPG

I'd check the voltage test points on the driver board. See if any are low or missing.

LTG : )

CPU has no power - no LEDs on there. So likely no +5v present anywhere.

Visually checking fuses ?

You really have to use a meter for this, fuses can fail without any visual indication.

No power to the CPU?

Fuse F-113 is the logic fuse for the 5v power, 5A 250v slo-blo, on the driver board.

I would check that one for sure first (with a meter, or just put in a new one if you dont have a meter).

I would also check the power jumper cable from the driver board, (not the ribbon, the other one with "heavier" wires) or refresh its connection at least.

If the fuse is 30 years old, it might not be a problem really.

A problem exists if the fuse keeps blowing after replacement.

That is why I followed up with "Will check fuses with DMM next"

You called it. That was the fuse, F113 SB5A per the manual. However, the fuse blew for a reason. I put a new fuse in and 3 seconds later it blew again. Time to really dig in.

Will need to find out why the fuse is blowing. Short somewhere possibly. I did not do anything to the pin, this just started happening. Maybe another electrical issue on a board or mechanical device.

Usually blown caps on the driver board relating to the 5v supply.

And maybe a bridge rectifier. Contrary to a lot of advice, shotgunning this circuit seems to solve it.

the pinwiki has some great references to the required repair.

I am leaning towards the BR's. The board was gone through in 2021 by Chris. Time to pull it out and do some TLC. Thanks for the input.

Found a good thread on this exact issue.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/wpc-power-drive-board-f113-blowing

Yeah replace BR 2 maybe BR1 too while you are there.

I have a box of the bridge rectifiers but I just bought some 1000v ones off of amazon.

I put them in my Stargate and they are working really well.

But the 35A 400v ones commonly sold at Marco shouold be fine.

They even have kit to shotgun the board, price seems high, but you never know these days:

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/WPC-PDA12697X

CAPS look good. Chris replaced C2,4,5 & 11. I have a few BR's from Marco or somewhere. Sounds like this is the issue. Thanks again for the quick inputs.

UPDATE: All back up and running. It was BR2 as pinballinreno suggested above. I removed and tested, sure enough it was the culprit. I replaced Both BR's since I had them and I was replacing 1 - mine as well do both. Cheap insurance. Up next is a complete restore of this pin. Have the CPR playfield and the cabinet is on order. Thanks to LTG and Coyote as well for inputs

IMG_6369 (resized).JPGIMG_6370 (resized).JPGIMG_6371 (resized).JPGIMG_6373 (resized).JPG

YAY! Nice work!

Where are you getting your cabinet from?

It takes forever but ordered from Paul at Virtuapin.net. Ordered in December and still waiting.

I ordered early october. Still waiting.

Woops double post

Oh, that's not good. He said when I ordered it would be March or April. Guess that is not going to happen now.

My restored diner is one of his cabinets and it's very nice. I'd absolutely go that route even with the wait

I met Christina Ricci at Steel City Con a couple of days ago. She was really nice and signed my translite (and for any Yellowjackets fans, she said that they start filming the next season in a couple of weeks).

Christina Ricci - Steel City Con - 4.12.2024 (resized).JPG

Christina Ricci - TAF pinball (resized).jpg

Christina Ricci - TAF translite Wednesday (resized).jpg

When the machine starts are all the thin

COOL image.. that is pretty rad.

I have a follow up to an issue I’m having on my Addams Family

Row 3 is out minus the Start Button (WHT/ORG)

Today I took about 3 hours of checking wires and continuity

Here are my findings:

- From Start button wht org wire to coin door interface board I have continuity J6

- From the out Wht Org to the field Nothing J1

- From any Wht Org Switch (any on Row3) to the J1 Wht Org - Nothing

In the field itself to all the switches on that row 3 with Wht Org wires they are fine and all connected with my meter in continuity

I’m sure the Coin Door Board is working as the game can start a game but everything past Start Button is dead on Row 3

Here is my manual page for the matrix
Up for suggestions

The issue just appeared one day so I’m confused as to what would of caused this issue out of the blue

Thanks in advance
James

IMG_5264 (resized).jpeg

There are two different plugs - the cabinet wires all go to the MPU on J205. Playfield switches connect to J206/J207 (Columns) and J208/J209 (Rows).
Ignore the cabinet wiring, it's not affected here. You need to test continuity between the connector on J208/209 to the playfield.

So my focus here is the head connection to the field.

Thank you !

I was following the row left to right
Appreciate your help

Yup! Some things to note about the switch matrix -
The order of the switches in the matrix (11, 12, 13, 14, or 11, 21, 31, 41, ... etc) is NOT an indication of where and how the wire is routed. For example, in row #3, the White/Org wire may actually go to the Thing Eject first, then the opto board, then the swamp kickout, etc. Usually things are wired following the wire harness - whatever switch that white-orange gets to first following the wire harness, then so on. (My guess in this case? Thing Eject Lane is the first switch.)

Good luck.

Thank you !!
All set somehow way shape or form

The MPU connection wiggled out
Placed it right now back and alive n well

Wished I checked the head first before the cabinet

At any rate

Appreciate your guidance

Have a question for the masses …

I noticed I have quite a few bookcase reject / bounce outs

Took a look inside the entrance to the bookcase and noticed a mini post

I have the double ring plastic posts and then tucked up there is a mini post

Looked into the rubber set and shows no rubber there

Can anyone in bookcase test open the bookcase and confirm if there is a mini post

Here is my game and the rubber chart

Thanks everyone

IMG_5276 (resized).jpeg

IMG_5277 (resized).jpeg

Yours is correct.

Thank you !!

Thoughts on what would cause 7/10 failed attempts to bookcase subway

Finally got my first DMD upgrade, and I love it!

I went the Pin2DMD route. I got them from pinsider Poerber who was awesome to work with, and it was totally plug and play.

By way of review, I’ve seen videos on the ColorDMD colorizations, and I do like some of the choices made on that one vs these Pin2DMD ones, but price was my big driver between the two. Almost half the price.

I had been wanting to do this for a few years and finally pulled the trigger. One down and 2 to go. Next install is for my IJ:TPA, and GB after that.

IMG_0621 (resized).jpeg

Is this what is used to illuminate the bookcase area? How is it attached?

reflector lamp (resized).jpeg

Usually a 1" hex spacer on top of a post that had a nut on it.

But Ive seen them put pretty much anywhere.

There is a thread on ultra small spotlights being available now.

These look like a better alternative:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/a-modern-minimal-spotlight-fixture-

Does anyone have a good used TAF PF that needs a bit of work for a good wall hanger and going too Pinfest PA pm me what u have

Problem still occurs intermittently after replacing the switch.