I had a similar thing. We figured out that it was sun light coming from the window (righthandside) when the sun was low. It interfered with the opto. So maybe this could happen.

Interesting - it was a glorious sunny day and I had the garage door open so that could be a factor. I usually play with all the lights out so I'll retest this evening. It is just interesting that the Dude was triggered but the diverter wasn't as I thought the same opto did both.

Another curious item I noticed recently - maybe this is normal - when I close the coin door after testing the left flipper goes up and then drops again. Only the left....

<Confirming - sunlight was the problem! Optos working correctly now.>

Trying to backup my scores and settings and keep getting “[USB stick issue]”. I’ve tried 5 different sticks. All formatted FAT32. I’ve put the update zip file on them, even though the faq says it’s not required after 1.12 (I’m on 1.13). I’ve tried all four USB ports in the backbox.

I used one of these sticks to update from 1.12 to 1.13 and it read the stick no problem. This makes no sense to me.

Any ideas?

Are you formatting the FAT32 with Windows or Mac? The extFAT format doesn’t work well from a Mac, I have had no issue once I format from a Windows VM. That said, it is the most common PM question I get and seems like many have issues with this.

Thanks. Welp, I got it work, I had to freshly reformat the USB drive (in Windows 11) and select NTFS for the file system. What's a bit puzzling is the tech support faq says to use "NFTS <-> FAT32" (not really sure what those arrows and dash mean), so I thought my FAT32 formatted sticks should work. In my OS these are mutually exclusive format options, you can choose one or the other. If I format with FAT32, I get the "USB stick issue" message. If I format with NTFS, eureka. Now to check out the sound mod!

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Paint is coming off the car toy in chunks showing white model underneath after only a few days. Is this a usual problem?

Definitely not. I have had my machine for a couple years with no sign of wear on the car. Definitely reach out to DP Support, Rens will take care of you I am sure

A new Softwareversion V1.13 has been published. Hopefully the great sound mod can still be added.

https://www.dutchpinball.com/the_big_lebowski_pinball_software

It's been confirmed that the sound mod still works after the upgrade. I updated mine yesterday with no issues.

I just update to 1.13 and my lights are completely gacked! At first the bowling lettet lights stopped illuminating - then a bunch of lights went dark and flashed /dimmed all over the playfield. And now there are hardly any lights working at all!!!!
All fuses are shoeing red lights- what the heck happene here and whats my fix!?

A real bummer

PS: not sure if its related, but my USB3 port did not work - no power / so i updated through the USB 2 port after removing the audio usb plug. The install went fine.

The issue persists even when i roll back to 1.12, and yea, i tried to reboot the game to see if that helped and nada.

The LED test menu does absolutely nothing- total non response

Pic attached - this is what is illuminated. Nothing changes when playing / flippers dont wven move the maude or zero lights. Its like it had a total stroke

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One last thing to mentioned - Fuses 1,2,3 and 8 do not illuminate if the coin door is open. They do light up when you close the coin door. Not sure if this is normal?

This is normal. Those fuses are the 48V fuses and 48V is disabled when opening coindoor. You need to pull the interlock switch to get 48V (and 12V) back or close the coindoor

Sorry about this issue.

Has nothing to do with the 113 update, just a coincidence.

Pls reseat proc and both pdled boards. Likely a connection issue. See service faq page 249 for how-to. You can also start with just pushing on top of the PCB's but usually reseating works best.

Had a strange one last night. In the middle of a good game and then when the ball went into the Jesus ramp/VUK, it just sat there doing nothing. No ball search, no response of any kind when the coin door was opened. No tilt possible. Music and lights continued on. Had to end up powering it down and turning it back on and then it was fine.

Thank! Pressing on the boards did the trick. Man that is weird!

What should I do about the dead USB3 port?

I know both issues have been discussed in the past, but wanted to add my findings...

1) kept hearing the "ca-chunk" sound bite when the ball should be kicked up to the MPF...it would often fire 2-4 times before the ball appeared. Turns out the black rubber bushing was shredded in the bottom of my cabinet. Very likely that was the issue. Had the Williams ones on hand, and the replacement fit perfectly.

2) Felt like my MPF flipper was weak and barely making the loop shot. Investigating it, I found the flipper itself to be resting on the MPF surface, with lots of play. It is very difficult to move by hand and will stick in the out position rather than return. Turns out that the factory bushing became shrapnel and now the flipper post is just riding on the wood. Ordering the new improved MPF extended flipper bushing kit, and it should be as good as new again.

Have you tried another usb drive?

So, if you hook up for instance the usb cable leading to the audio board on an usb3 port it will do nothing?

I tried the video USB cord in the usb3 port and it did not work either

Video usb port?? Video is either vga for older builts or hdmi for newer built. USB is unused.

What do you see as USB3 port? Perhaps a picture would be great. Can it be you tried to insert usb drive in the RJ45 port (has happened befor)?

He

Well now i feel dumb!

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No worries, I know exactly how you feel ….

Just happy to see mystery solved

Hmmm I'm suddenly experiencing some lock ups/freezes during play. On the last one, a message appeared saying to to check P-roc connection or something similar. I guessed this might be down to the USB connection being a little flaky. I've reseated it but the problems still happening, is there any known remedy for this?

Some have had to buy a new cable for that connection and it fixes it.

New cable is an advice and if it’s an earlier TBL also an extra 5V hookup is recommended. Servicefaq page 75+76

Left ramp diverter seems to be binding somehow. When I push physically, it’s fine and moves up and down freely. Only when the coil pulls on the plunger does it bind. When I push back gently on the diverter (toward left side of cab) it doesn’t bind when the coil pulls. But when sitting on its own, gravity pulls it forward slightly and it seems to bind. It’s not getting caught on the slot in the ramp. I’ve tried repositioning things, bending the bracket slightly etc. no luck so far. Rens mentioned a while back they added some kind of washer to lessen the play where the plunger goes through the pf. Mine doesn’t seem to have any such thing. Thanks for any tips if you’ve faced this.

Well 1 day as owner, my flippers kept moving and I kept realigning, I guess I used too much muscle and now this?
Any reference to this pac man shaped screw? Quick trip to the hardware store will save me? Or is this something I need Marco/pbl for?

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I don’t think it’s a common part. Probably need this: https://www.pinballlife.com/williamsbally-flipper-pawl-hardware-assembly.html

My right flipper also kept slipping. I had to tighten it a couple of times, almost to the max.

Solution: I noticed if the plunger was not all the way in the up position when the coil fired, it wouldn’t bind. I added a washer that forces some space between the round part of the plunger and the top of the coil bracket which screws into the PF. Washer needs to be big enough to fit over the flattened part of the plunger but small enough to not go over the round part of the plunger. I’m still not sure exactly why it was binding but this fixed it.

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I am trying to fix the right flipper sticking. I have just filed down the shooter bracket that is too close to the flipper opto mechanism. No good. I have tried different spacers behind the opto bracket also no good. The flipper shaft is perfectly aligned with the coil and not sticking at all.

I have noticed that it only sticks after awhile and never right away. Multiple games and it gets worse and worse. If I touch the left flipper button the right flipper immediately drops. But if you hold the right flipper for a nano second it stays up

First we need to determine if it’s electrical or mechanical. I am assuming mechanical reading your message but assumption if the mother of all f*ck ups for a reason.

When the right flipper is up, go into switch test and see what it states there. Is flipperswitch active or not.

Assuming it’s not as I think, is the vertical tolerance sufficient (better to much as to little tolerance), swap coilstop left-right to see if coilstop is magnetized.

Hi TBL owners and Rens,

I own TBL #001-620. I ordered and received the knocker kit from Pinball life. I have also successfully upgraded my software to V1.13.

I just e-mailed support to order the breakout board DP-01-320033.

Can anybody tell me if the breakout board comes with the ribbon cable shown in P2 of the knocker install kit instructions? Or is this cable already in my serial # 620 TBL? Please help if you can. Thanks, mk

Hi. As also responded per e-mail this ribbon cable is not needed for the knocker kit, it comes with starry apron. So, PBL knocker kit plus the mod board and you are all set.

Yes I believe the coil stop is magnetized. Swapped left to right and now the other one is sticking what can I do? As the coil is heating up it seems to be increasing the magnetic field and gets worse. All other things check good. Thank you

My plastics are starting to show chunks of color flaking off - why would this be happening and how can i get replacements? Bought in October of last year.

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CoinTaker:

https://cointaker.com/products/tbl-pinball-plastic-set

Protector Set (although incomplete):

https://cointaker.com/products/the-big-lebowski-plastic-protector-set

I’d hate having to pay for replacements on a game that’s only six months old, though. How many plays do you have on it?

Contact your dealer for a set on warranty.
If he starts discussions ask DP, at least you can buy a set directly from DP.

Sent me a mail pls at [email protected] including these pictures and TBL serialno.

This post probably should be highlighted

Done