I got one of those for Christmas. I haven't had a reason to switch yet, but looks the same.

I think there is finite life on them, and I think TPU reduces that greatly. I figure even if I have to pay the $39 for the real bambu gold plate every 600-800 hours that is plenty cheap....but at $16 each, well, lol, that's better.

I was surprised I did a search in the topic and not 1 post for UM. Has anyone done a scoop mod?

When you use these aftermarket plates does the printer throw a build plate alert screen that you have to click through before the print will begin?

Last weekend I was doing some re leveling and I used my 3 ton car jack and it reminded me of swinks pin jack thing. Scrolled backs few pages and studied his pictures and designed my own. Had a random piece of thin steel tube that was perfect for the job.

I had an old spool of clear PETG, so that was what I used. Now that it’s complete, I’m sure PLA+ would have been just fine. I might re print in a different color.

IMG_2917 (resized).jpeg

IMG_2918 (resized).jpeg

I use Magigoo Pro Flex on my Gold Plates and TPU and have seen no wear. Will it eventually happen, sure but been going strong with 2 plates now since they were released.

not these, and they are identical in every way I'm not sure how it would know.

From my understanding the X1C with the LiDar reads the strip or QR. The P1P and P1S don't care. I have one of those rainbow dots smooth plates and there are no markings on it. Prints fine with no warnings.

I just turn Print Plate detection to off, then you can load any type of vendor plate you want. The Lidar will ignore the check.

Ah...see I am low rent with my lowly P1S units. My bad. Didn't know this. Sorry.

No one, I mean NO ONE is low rent to me. Lol as I look at my A1 mini next to my X1C

The X1 does read the plate and pauses before beginning a print if it detects the plate does not match what was selected in the file settings. You then have an option to continue or cancel the print. I found an option in the printer settings to Enable Detection of Build Plate Position (checked by default). You can also disable the setting in the Device > Print Options area in Bambu Studio. Another option I've seen online from some users is to scan the QR code from an existing sheet, print on a decal, and apply on the aftermarket plate.

I don't really have a need to purchase a new plate right now as my original black textured plate is performing flawlessly, but when I do an aftermarket version is surely what I'll go with.

I got 4 more of those aftermarket gold plates. They are all packaged differently, some have white writing screened on them, some have NOTHING at all, all coming from the same seller. LOL

Sunlu black PETG 2 spools for $24.99 or less with subscribe and save. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BV98X6JK

Various other colors and combinations for similar prices.

Here is a link to the QR code I printed, and works with no issues - https://makerworld.com/en/models/42927#profileId-43855

Checking to see if anyone has a 3d print of any kind for the Foo Fighters Overlord. I have looked everywhere and cant find anything.

Thanks

Overlord (resized).png

I thought someone did a resin model, but I could be wrong.

There was one guy but he just got run off the platform

Can anyone give me a quote for 5 of these PCB mounts in black? I’ve attached the STL file below.

Going to use these to mount my Geekworm LVDS boards so I can do direct capture on my pinball streams.

https://file.io/PGPF8SvxFHT7

Also, the scaling should be inches and not mm as the final print size would be too tiny.

Looks like 69.85 x 45.72 x 15.24 mm, if that's right and you just want them out of PLA+ or PETG I'll do it for free, just cover the shipping. PM me your info and what infill you want, etc.

These work?

PXL_20240328_230806291 (resized).jpg

Looks good! Thank you so much.

Yeah. My neighbour wanted two of these center plugs for 45 vinyls and offered me $15 for them. I said that 5 of them cost me .60 cents in plastic, so I’d do it for free.

https://www.printables.com/model/423492-i-cant-drive-55-45-record-adapter

anyone have this stl or something similar. My RG is in great shape but the shooter lane needs help.

shooterlanemod (resized).jpg

Can anyone help me out with an STL file of the plastics on a TS4 outlanes and sling covers,

I can't figure out how to take them and make a STL file

Thank you for all the help

Are you trying to remake plastics with art? If so you don't want to 3d print it.

You want to UV print it and laser cut them. I would think plastics are available to buy for a TS4. Remaking plastics is a journey that only makes sense of they're not available.

I want to design my own 3d printed tops, they would go on the top of the plastics, I just need the actual shape of them lol. I can't figure out how to do it

Download them from a repository like thingiverse if someone has made and shared them.

Or teach yourself to sculpt in blender

Would love to learn, I use Thinkercad! Do you actually scan the plastics on a flatbed scanner ?

I have used autodesk fusion 360. Unscrew the plastics from the machine and put them on a white piece of paper. Next to them put a ruler and take a picture straight above. Import the picture in fusion 360 as a canvas, and calibrate the picture using the length of the ruler to get the right size. Then you can draw a sketch over the picture and extrude it to have the right shape and size.

This is what I do too

If you will PM me I can help. Just need you to send me 300dpi scans of each plastic. I'll create vector outlines in Adobe Illustrator, export to SVG, then import into Tinkercad and create STL files for you.

You make it sound so easy. Lol

When you've made dozens of sets of custom plastics & protectors (hundreds of different pieces), the process becomes fairly routine. Even though I'm typically laser cutting and recreating art, the first step is always the same (creating vector traces of each plastic) and my method of doing so is using scans of the original plastics imported into AI where I then use the pen tool to create paths for the shape outlines and holes. Where I go from there depends on what the final product is going to be (e.g. something 3D printed, something laser cut, creating art files in PS, etc.)

I'm throwing this out there. LOL
I've been watching a lot of videos, illustrator etc but def not an easy jump in and go. And nothing really directly related to pins. You could start a little youtube channel showing how to do some of it would be cool. making plastics or creating a 3d model. But I have a feeling even those videos would be hours.

I've been trying to figure out making a tunnel for my rollergames shooter lane, or a bridge for UM and even scanned some plastics that were broken. But still on the drawing board. Buying is easy but learning is for life.

I’m happy with how these hinge covers came up. Printed face down on a sparkle plate.

IMG_6149 (resized).jpeg

I just got one from Amazon today. Any tips, or is it just like a normal build plate? I also ordered a half dozen different plates from AliExpress, but they won’t be here anytime soon.

image (resized).jpg

Use textured plate settings. They scratch easy, so just be careful when you are removing your print.

Sparkle plate. I'm going to have to look that up.

Look for PEY build plate, there’s a bunch of patterns

IMG_7166 (resized).png

https://www.temu.com/1pc-for-bambu-lab-plate-peo-pet-pey-5d-h1h-pei-build-plate-double-sided-spring-steel-pei-sheet-257x257-for-bambu-labs-a1-x1-x1c-p1p-p1s-3d-printer-257x-257mm-g-601099539357449.html?_oak_mp_inf=EIm%2BkqSm1ogBGiA2NzI5ZDdiMDI5ZWU0NTgyYmRlNmZjZmJiODllZjEwMSDln92V6TE%3D&top_gallery_url=https%3A%2F%2Fimg.kwcdn.com%2Fproduct%2FFancyalgo%2FVirtualModelMatting%2Fa64b3c0faa1b51052f40b4825147814d.jpg&spec_gallery_id=2071235961&refer_page_sn=10009&refer_source=0&freesia_scene=2&_oak_freesia_scene=2&_oak_rec_ext_1=MTM0OA&_oak_weakly_consistent_sku_id=17592312277514&search_key=pey%20plate&refer_page_el_sn=200049&refer_page_name=search_result&refer_page_id=10009_1711858461035_tciyhg3bsg&_x_sessn_id=6q2gdcxt7c

While I've not seen anything that puts it all together specifically for pinball projects, there are lots of 3D modelling videos for every CAD program out there. For me I use Photoshop and Illustrator hand-in-hand for creating plastics and some 3D modelling pieces. I do all of my artwork in Photoshop and all of my vector line tracing in Illustrator.

You only need a basic knowledge of AI for the purposes of pinball plastic recreation. You can directly import a PSD (no need to embed the files, you just need them for tracing) and then use the path tools to create/trace the shapes. You'll need to watch a few videos on how the path tools work and do some playing with them as they are not all that intuitive. You can then open those files in Photoshop and use as your boundaries for graphics, decal design, etc. or if you are laser cutting you can directly import the AI file in vector format into tools like Lightburn. For 3D work, you can export AI files into formats like SVG which most CAD programs can import. Of course you are only importing a flat object, but often times you need that shape to work with as a basis for your 3D model.

Does anyone have a small CNC (i.e. 3018) that can route a 2-3 small PCB boards for me? Maybe 1" to 1.5" long, 0.5" wide. Probably double sided and just 5 parts. Back side should be ground. Shoot me a PM for details, please. Thanks.

Thanks
Slowly been working at it. Not a simple task but I keep trying.

You can say that again.

I make things. Its about my only hobby. I don't have kids by choice. I spend hours upon hours learning. I enjoy it. I couldn't spend all the time I have if I didn't enjoy it

All this is to say making stuff is hard and there's so much to learn. It's also hard to teach, it's hard to say "just press this button and out pops a project".

It's something that's a constant struggle when instructing at my makerspace. The people with the most success are the ones that can dig in and learn, not everyone has the time, and that's ok, but that's why skilled trades exist.

Played with tinker today for a few hrs.
Going to try and make a tunnel for the rollergames ball shooter lane.

If I may make a suggestion, I would try to get away from tinkercad as quickly as you can if you want to make things even semi regularly.

Fusion 360 is free, it does have a steeper learning curve but is far more flexible and capable, and frankly less frustrating than tinkercad.

Lots of free tutorials as well, and people like myself are more than willing to help answer specific questions.

Ok thanks
I'll give it a shot.

Thats not true. I have been using Microsoft 3D builder for years and can create some solid stuff. Tinkercad is basically the same thing and probably has more features.

However I'm not producing precise interlocking parts. Basically art pieces that don't need to be .001 accurate (that also falls on the printer). And will an stl from MS 3D be hell if you import it to 360... Yes. But I think creating simple plastic can be done at an elementary level in Tinker or MS 3D.

There’s a handful of videos out there but this one gives you a pretty good idea of how it’s done.