(Topic ID: 333180)

Node 8 Not Initialized - Debugging and Solution

By Aldie

1 year ago


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  • 15 posts
  • 8 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 64 days ago by stangbat
  • Topic is favorited by 3 Pinsiders

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Node 8 - CN11 (resized).png
#1 1 year ago

I'm making this post so that others may learn from the work that I have put into debugging (and solving) a problem with the 'Node 8 Not Initialized Error' on a Stern Pinball - Elvira House of Horrors LE.

TLDR: An Elvira HoH LE Node 8 that was failing to initialize was "fixed" by resoldering an opto switch.

The screen showed a red flashing error "Node 8 Not Initialized" when booting up. Sometimes you see this when the coin door is open because the 48V power is switched off. In this case, the door was closed. So I checked to see if the 48V power was on. It was.

After some research on Pinside and Reddit I tried several things to fix the problems.

Starting with the easiest, Here's a list of everything I tried before stumbling into the solution.

Checked the RJ45 Cable.
Swapped cables with another node.
Swapped out with a completely new cable to make sure but to no avail.

Checked the Jumpers.
This machine worked previously, so I had no reason to think a jumper was incorrectly set for Node 8 (off-off-off-off).
I checked to make sure - it was set correctly.

Updated the Firmware
Performed a software update using a USB key with version 1.05.
Performed a complete SD Card replacement of the firmware.

Removed and re-seated all the connections for Node 8.

I also replaced the Node 8 board entirely with a spare. (this didn't fix the problem)

I removed all the connections to the node, and the node could initialize!
I re-attached each connection set one by one, and I could isolate the failure to CN11.
The board would initialize without CN11 attached.

At this point, I called in a technician who helped with the next set of debugging.

We went through each switch attached to this connection and visually inspected each switch to see if it looked ok.
This Elvira is a very new machine with low usage, and everything looked good.

We de-soldered all the switches and disconnected all the optos from the power.
Eventually, we isolated the problem switch. It was #35 'Left Ramp Exit Opto'

We pulled out the ramp and checked the opto. It looked ok to us. However, I saw a weird spot of solder on the opto receiver board, so we decided to resolder it anyway.

Node 8 fully initialized! The technician was stunned; he had never seen a Stern node board fail to initialize from a single switch having a faulty connection.

Hopefully, this post helps someone else out there!
Elvira Switch Layout (resized).pngElvira Switch Layout (resized).pngNode 8 - CN11 (resized).pngNode 8 - CN11 (resized).png

#2 1 year ago

Just for future reference - for folks reading this thread … on every Node 8/9 we have seen blown (there have been a lot …) it’s always the same thing.

The large diode at the end (circled in yellow) has weak solder joints on the legs. That’s why Stern created the “stabilisation kit” which is basically a cable tie … to stop it moving around.

What happens is the solder breaks - the diode builds up energy - the solder touches - boooom all the energy bursts out and blows up the tiny chip downstream (also circled in yellow)

Luckily that’s a 70c chip. But you need to be able to do surface mount soldering to replace it.

Bad design … you can beef up the soldering on the legs to stop it happening again.

There’s probably been 100s of Node 8/9 boards that have been thrown in the trash because of this blown 70c chip.

rd

85505221-1709-44EF-A82F-978A00CE6BD4 (resized).jpeg85505221-1709-44EF-A82F-978A00CE6BD4 (resized).jpeg
#3 1 year ago

RD actually means a NZ$10 regulator and a NZ$5 diode, based on latest repair bill for my node 8 board.

Skippy2904

#4 1 year ago

The part number is: MP24943DN-LF-Z, which is a buck converter.
This part fails on a great many Stern SPIKE boards as it's predecessor, the A8498SLJTR-T.
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.ChrisHiblerPinball.com/Contact
https://www.youtube.com/c/ChrisHiblerPinball
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info

#5 1 year ago

rotordave
Skippy2904

Would either of you have the part number/manufacturer for the diode that needs to be replaced?
It is labeled MBR760, but a Mouser search for that part returns 100's of thousands of parts.
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.ChrisHiblerPinball.com/Contact
https://www.youtube.com/c/ChrisHiblerPinball
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info

#6 1 year ago
Quoted from ChrisHibler:

Would either of you have the part number/manufacturer for the diode that needs to be replaced?

MBR760 schottky barrier diode (TO-220 package).

rd

#8 1 year ago
Quoted from ChrisHibler:

Thanks rotordave
There were many choices.
Would you say that this one would work?
https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/onsemi/MBR760/1054945
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.ChrisHiblerPinball.com/Contact
https://www.youtube.com/c/ChrisHiblerPinball
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info

Alas - I’m no electronics genius … pretty handy with the soldering iron and that’s about it!

That’s the one (I linked) that my surface mount expert mate uses.

rd

#9 1 year ago

Does this issue still occur since the stabilization kit has been implemented?

#10 1 year ago
Quoted from EightiesArcade:

Does this issue still occur since the stabilization kit has been implemented?

Yes.

rd

1 week later
#11 1 year ago

Moved my mando and checked node 8/9 and added some solder. They were pretty light on solder

#12 1 year ago
Quoted from northvibe:

Moved my mando and checked node 8/9 and added some solder. They were pretty light on solder

Yeah, they saved some bucks with the solder.

rd

1 week later
#13 1 year ago

My apologies for a possibly dumb question but what qualifies as light on solder? Any photos of what we should be looking for?

#14 1 year ago
Quoted from AMartin56:

My apologies for a possibly dumb question but what qualifies as light on solder? Any photos of what we should be looking for?

barely enough solder around the leg of something, so if it gets shaken etc it can crack easily.

EDIT: here are some examples I found

pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image1 (resized).pngpasted_image1 (resized).png

11 months later
#15 64 days ago

Going to dredge this back up. I have a node board from a Ghostbusters that is acting flaky. It looks like the MP24943DN is failing, it shows the appearance of being hot on the lower left as I've seen in other threads discussing its demise. So I need to place an order for the MP24943 and I'd also like to pick up some replacement MBR760 diodes as well. Just curious if someone can point me to what I should order on Mouser or Digikey before I end up bashing my head due to all the different form factors and variations that are out there.

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