It is possible your board work hurt through or across board continuity.

LTG : )

For reference, BR5 has nothing to do with this pathway. BR4 does.

Your problem is the 4-5 volts AC you have on J102-3 and J102-4. The AC Power for the flashlamp circuit originates at connector J102 pins 1,2 and 3,4 (16 volts AC). It then goes through fuse F111, bridge BR4, capacitor C11, LED5/TP7 (20 volts DC), then to connector J107-5, J107-6 (playfield) and J106-5 (backbox).

If you didn't remove the connector, I'd remove connector J102 and test the voltages directly at the pins 3 and 4 of the connector for 16 volts AC. If not there, go into the cabinet and disconnect the connector at the transformer that has the white/red wires in it. Measure on the transformer side for 16 volts AC. If it's there, you have a connector issue. If not, a possible transformer issue.

Also don't make the same mistake I did, I didn't have 20v because I was testing with the coin door open!

Also check that your ASIC chip is seated well.

Has nothing to do with the ASIC.

Ok, I had a buddy with an NBA FB and the flashers didn't work. Touching the ASIC and pushing it in fixed it. I'm out..

I'm sorry if I came off snappy. Long day!

The CPU would have control over when to fire the flashers.

The OP isn't seeing the voltage on the driver board at the connector where it enters the driver board from the transformer. If he had the proper voltages at the connector and headers but didn't have it TP7, it would be either F111, BR4, C11 or a broken trace or cold solder joint. If all those were up to spec, I'd start looking elsewhere, but the OP said he only had 4-5 volts AC at the connector when it should be 16 volts AC. This is what caught my attention.

Sorry to bring up an old thread, but I'm having a similar issue. I disconnected the connector at the transformer and measured the two red/white wires on the transformer side (using the braid screwed into the feet of the transformer for ground). One gets 13.5 VAC, the other 8.2 VAC.

So...does that mean I need a new transformer?

You don't measure VAC against ground. You measure VAC one red/white wire against the other.

Same board as the ST:tnG

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/dm-demolition-man-no-flashers-at-all#post-1745789

If you didn't remove the connector, I'd remove connector J102 and test the voltages directly at the pins 3 and 4 of the connector for 16 volts AC. If not there, go into the cabinet and disconnect the connector at the transformer that has the white/red wires in it. Measure on the transformer side for 16 volts AC. If it's there, you have a connector issue. If not, a possible transformer issue.

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Just to clarify, you would place your test probes on J102-2 and J102-4 to check for 16VAC.

It would be handy if Frax could post the follow-up/ conclusion to this problem.

Thanks for the clarification everyone. Turns out I do have the correct voltage at the transformer and at the connector. Will have to investigate further. I haven't actually tested the bulbs yet, so I guess it's possible they're all out.

Are the flashers wired in series? I have them all unplugged and am just plugging them in one at a time to test. I'm doing this because the very first time I tried to test one, it blew a fuse (one unrelated to the flashers).

Unrelatedly, just had a bit of a setback when I gently set down the glass and it burst into a million pieces. Sigh.

A little more info on what you checked would be helpful.

A couple of quick things:

1) make sure the coin door is closed when testing due to the interlock switch
2) is LED5 lit and have you checked TP7 for 20VDC? (This one you check to ground).
3) have you checked fuse F111 for continuity after removing it from the board?
4) have you checked for cold solder joints at J102, F111, BR4, C11 or J107?

1) Yep - closed.
2) Didn't look at LED5, but TP7 has 20 VDC. Does LED5 being lit mean essentially the same thing as having the correct voltage at TP7?
3) Yes.
4) No - thanks! I will check those out today.

Check for 20VDC at the pins on the driver board at J107-5 and J107-6.

Most games use J107-6 for flashers and some also J107-5, if needed.

I am also having a similar issue with my DM - no flashers at all, even though the rest of the game appears fine. LED5 is off, fuse F111 keeps blowing with J107 plugged in (but not if J106 is in) and I cannot find any evidence of flasher sockets shorting underneath the playfield.

So I have deduced the problem must be with BR4. However I am unsure of how to test it properly. Can somebody please sense-check the steps below? This is my first foray into board diagnostics and I do not want to mess it up.

- Set DMM to volts and diode testing mode
- Turn game off
- Place black DMM lead onto positive BR4 DC terminal
- Place red lead on either BR4 AC terminal.
- Both BR4 AC terminals should read 400-600 mV.
- Place red lead onto negative BR4 DC terminal.
- Place black lead onto either BR4 AC terminal.
- Both BR4 AC terminals should read 400-600 mV again.

Is that the best way to do it? And can this be done with the machine off, or does it need to be turned on at any point?

Thanks for any advice!

It is correct, and yes, with the machine "off"
But if you suspect a short in BR4 then it doesn't matter where the RED and Black terminal is placed on the bridge, in case of a short it will beep anyhow.
Be aware that there is a large capacitor in the circuit so the DMM beeps during charging the Cap.

So are you saying that F111 does NOT blow if J107 is removed?

Thanks! I will give this method a try then. Can this be done in the backbox, or does the whole board need to be taken out?

Yes, that's right. If only J106 is in, the fuse is fine. With both J106 and J107 in, the fuse blows. So I concluded that the problem lies with something on the J107 circuit (on the board) rather than something on the playfield.

J106 is your backbox flashers. J107 is the playfield. If the fuse isn't blowing with J107 removed, I'd be looking on the playfield and not the driver board. If BR4 was shorted out, the fuse would blow even with J107 disconnected.

It could be a direct short to ground, shorted bulb or shorted socket. If you replace the fuse and boot the game up, is any particular flasher stuck on? You may have to track down a bad bulb at this point.

There are no flashers stuck on when I replace the fuse. It blows shortly after the game boots (just after the claw moves). I have checked each socket and none of them are touching other components and the bulbs are all new LEDs. Any ideas?

Just did some testing and found that the TIP-102 transistor Q22 is shorted. Could this be related?

GOOD WORK! That would do it. Right ramp flasher. That's why I asked if any flashers were stuck on. I'm sure the bulb is shot, too, which is why it doesn't light up. If you pull J122, F111 shouldn't blow.

Replace Q22 and, possibly, the pre-driver 2N5401 at Q21. You can test Q21 by setting your DMM to diode and placing the black lead of the DMM on the center leg of the transistor and the red lead of the DMM on each of the two outside legs of the transistor one at a time. You're looking for a reading of .4 to .6 volts.

Thanks for the tip! I did some testing. I put in a new fuse and unplugged J122. The fuse didn't blow! And with J122 I now get 21.85v at the TP7 test point. (Is it a problem if I get slightly over 20v?)

The Q21 transistor reads 0.675v on the right leg and 0.663v on the left leg. It looks like that is a little over 0.6v. But I assume these values are still OK, because all of the predriver transistors give the same readings.

So, as far as I can tell, I need to replace the transistor at Q22. How do I deal with the actual problem of the flasher bulb? It is a new LED so I don't know what went wrong with it.

I wouldn't worry about the slightly higher readings. They're in the ballpark and not uncommon. The common belief is that the predriver may have been "stressed". Replace Q22. It may just have been its time to move to the pinball underworld. The LED may or may not work or been the problem in the first place.

I know this is an old thread but I have a follow up on this issue... I replaced Q22 and removed the flasher until I got a new one. I installed a new one the other day and noticed that the right ramp flasher was still not working. I checked Q22 and it has shorted again! Any ideas on what may be causing this? I have checked the predriver at Q21 and the voltages from it are good. If I am correct, the only other thing before that predriver is the 74LS374 IC, But the other flashers are working properly so the IC must still be OK.

Also of note, when I test for a short to ground on the other TIP102s I get a momentary beep from Q52, but only for half a second. What could be causing that?

Thanks for any advice.

Having the same issue with no 20V on our Getaway HS2 (no flashers working). There's 19 vac at J102 pin 1 to 3 or 4 and pin 2 to 3 or 4 at the connector so those all look good. They are clean and tight. F111 ohms to 0. LED5 will usually start out dim and then gets brighter whether 106 and 107 is hooked up or not. TP7, the 20V test point usually starts around 4 vdc to ground then you can sit and watch it start rising as BR4 starts warming up. Pushing around on stuff trying to find cold joints has been futile although the voltage seems to come up faster when rubbing around on BR4. So I'm assuming at this point it's BR4 or the Capacitor C11. Is it better to go through the trouble of pulling the board and replacing those components and checking for any other cold and/or dry joints, etc. or just buy a power board like the Rottendog one that's $299? We don't really have anyone local here to do board repairs and I can do some stuff pretty well but definitely not an electronic tech. On MarcoSpecialties.com they have a rebuild kit that's 5 bridge rectifiers, 5 15000 ufd capacitors and a smaller capacitor for 50 bucks. What's your opinion on moving forward on getting my flashers working on my hs2?

Thank you all for the insights and help on this...

Send the board off to one of the many repair persons on this site such as Chris Hibler or Clive from Coin Op Cauldron.

That's a solid recommendation! I'll hit one up this week... Thanks,

Thank you for leaving this breadcrumb of knowledge here. Turns out I did not have the door closed so that was why it was low.

I have some other issue going ok so I'll keep investigating...

That was my issue - thanks for pointing this out!!