(Topic ID: 262767)

Gorgar sound problems! Just bought first pin

By Steveoshoots

4 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 37 posts
  • 12 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 years ago by frunch
  • Topic is favorited by 3 Pinsiders

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#1 4 years ago

the speaking works but the sound effects dont. I’m clueless on how to repair pins-can someone walk me through repairing or trouble shootings?

Also-flippers are weak, drop targets don’t work, and one of the pops is weak. Help! Haha

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#2 4 years ago

I hate to ask the most obvious questions, but I will.
1) did you put the ball back in?
2) did you add credits?

#4 4 years ago
Quoted from ThatOneDude:

I hate to ask the most obvious questions, but I will.
1) did you put the ball back in?
2) did you add credits?

IT WAS CREDITS! Hahahaha. Flippers are weak, drop targets don’t work and one of the pops is weak. Hoping to learn how to fix these issues!

#5 4 years ago

Also, it’s silent. Gorgar talks-but no other sound works. Is this a setting?

#6 4 years ago

Did you buy your Gorgar from a collector - hobbyist or is it fresh out of a house that had owned it for many years? Those early solid state pinballs can require a lot of "bulletproofing" to make them reliable. If a pinhead owned it for a while, lots of that is probably done. If from a house of many years, maybe not done.

If you are handy with repairing boards, you can do the bulletproofing by following the "vid1900 guide" on pinside. Otherwise there are a number of great board repairmen out there that do this stuff all the time.

Your situation reminds me so much of my own entrance into the pin hobby. Here is my first thread on pinside. It was about my unruly Gorgar and how to fix it. The vid guide link can be found in the thread. https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/gorgar-gorgar-gorgar-ect-ect

#7 4 years ago

flippers on those era williams are always weak.

#9 4 years ago
Quoted from Astill:

flippers on those era williams are always weak.

Disagree, they may not be as powerful as modern flippers but with a proper rebuild and good connectors, switches, etc, they should have ample power. I've played a couple Gorgars that had strong enough flippers to make them fast and challenging.

If anything, perhaps a video would help us determine what OP means by weak flippers.

Also, could you post some pics of the boards in the backbox, @Steveoshoots?

#10 4 years ago
Quoted from Steveoshoots:

Also, it’s silent. Gorgar talks-but no other sound works. Is this a setting?

There are two volume controls, if I recall correctly. Make sure that they are both turned up. If is not that, I would replace the capacitors on the sound board. Be careful with the ribbon connector between the speech board and the sound board.
For the flippers, check the end of stroke switches. If that doesn't fix it, check the plunger and coil sleeve. Clean and/or replace as needed. Also check the switches on the flipper buttons. Make sure that the contacts are clean.
I prefer the snappy feel of fliptronics flippers, but you can certainly rebuild those flippers.

#11 4 years ago

Your flippers probably just need a rebuild. Here's the kit you need:
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/WFLKIT6979
Hard to say what's wrong with the drop targets without more info, but I bet the switch on your pop bumper needs to be adjusted. Is it activating weakly, or is it just not activating when it should? If it's the second one, you can just adjust the switch underneath the "spoon." Try to get the two contacts close to each other without touching.

#12 4 years ago

Also, when you say that the drop targets don't work, what do you mean? Do they not reset, drop or register contacts?

#13 4 years ago
Quoted from Steveoshoots:

Also, it’s silent. Gorgar talks-but no other sound works. Is this a setting?

There is a potentiometer on the left side of the soundboard (upper right board in the backbox) that mixes speech and sound.

As a test, turn the game on and turn pot all the way clockwise and see if you get no sounds at all or the Gorgar heart beat. If you get the beat then set that pot to about its mid-point and you would get both sounds.

#14 4 years ago
Quoted from dozer1:

Did you buy your Gorgar from a collector - hobbyist or is it fresh out of a house that had owned it for many years? Those early solid state pinballs can require a lot of "bulletproofing" to make them reliable. If a pinhead owned it for a while, lots of that is probably done. If from a house of many years, maybe not done.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/gorgar-gorgar-gorgar-ect-ect

It was from a house that had for many years

#15 4 years ago
Quoted from frunch:

Disagree, they may not be as powerful as modern flippers but with a proper rebuild and good connectors, switches, etc, they should have ample power. I've played a couple Gorgars that had strong enough flippers to make them fast and challenging.
If anything, perhaps a video would help us determine what OP means by weak flippers.
Also, could you post some pics of the boards in the backbox, Steveoshoots?

Here are some photos - trying to figure out how to upload a video for you. So now when I turn the machine on I get 1496....until I open coin door and turn off/on 3 times. Then I can play it. For a minute there, Gorgar voice wasn't working either. Completely silent. Now he's talking again.

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#16 4 years ago
Quoted from frunch:

Disagree, they may not be as powerful as modern flippers but with a proper rebuild and good connectors, switches, etc, they should have ample power. I've played a couple Gorgars that had strong enough flippers to make them fast and challenging.
If anything, perhaps a video would help us determine what OP means by weak flippers.
Also, could you post some pics of the boards in the backbox, Steveoshoots?

here are some more pictures

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#17 4 years ago

Yeah, you need a good flipper rebuild there, BUT to me it looks like a very nice condition game! Much nicer then the Gorgar I bought 6+ years ago. Those look like pretty old batteries. They need changing. If you want to not change any of the settings it has now, change the batteries with the game on.

#18 4 years ago

My 2 cents worth on issues that you are having. Some will be intermittent, others might be more stubborn. I would recommend having a pro bullet proof those boards. Have them install NVRAM at that time. No more batteries needed. Your battery holder isn't perfect I see, with the NVRAM it will all be eliminated. That game is totally worth it.

#19 4 years ago
Quoted from dozer1:

Those look like pretty old batteries. They need changing. If you want to not change any of the settings it has now, change the batteries with the game on.

If it shows 1496 on the displays at start-up, I THINK that means the batteries are either completely dead or not making a connection. I had a similar issue with another machine that had a bad battery holder, and I seem to recall that if I turned it off and on a few times I could force it to start a game.

#20 4 years ago

That number means you are in audits mode. Change the batteries, or preferably, remove the need for batteries. Install an nvram or some other substitute.

#21 4 years ago
Quoted from Steveoshoots:

here are some more pictures[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Missing plunger and reset plate or am I crazy? On 3 bank drop target pic.

#22 4 years ago
Quoted from lowbeau67:

Missing plunger and reset plate or am I crazy? On 3 bank drop target pic.

lowbeau67 you are correct! I found it in the bottom, the plate has broken in half. Think I can fix? Or should i just order a replacement.

ALSO ALSO! I fixed the 1496. The right battery wasn’t making a connection-someone Soldered the top part, I simply just removed the battery and bent that metal part down so it would touch the battery. And replaced batteries.

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#23 4 years ago

Just replace it. Too cheap to try and fix: https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/01-6452

Replace the coil sleeve, too.

#24 4 years ago
Quoted from Steveoshoots:

lowbeau67 you are correct! I found it in the bottom, the plate has broken in half. Think I can fix? Or should i just order a replacement.
ALSO ALSO! I fixed the 1496. The right battery wasn’t making a connection-someone Soldered the top part, I simply just removed the battery and bent that metal part down so it would touch the battery. And replaced batteries.[quoted image]

Noticed that right away because I just rebuilt
my drops in my flash. Haha. Had to look
Twice before I posted just to make sure . I'm still
a novice on working on my games and didn't
want to look like an idiot!

#25 4 years ago
Quoted from boscokid:

There is a potentiometer on the left side of the soundboard (upper right board in the backbox) that mixes speech and sound.
As a test, turn the game on and turn pot all the way clockwise and see if you get no sounds at all or the Gorgar heart beat. If you get the beat then set that pot to about its mid-point and you would get both sounds.

boscokid So I did that, and all the way right I got NO sounds. I tried that test button too and it only cycled through Gorgar speech. help! haha

#26 4 years ago
Quoted from Steveoshoots:

So I did that, and all the way right I got NO sounds. I tried that test button too and it only cycled through Gorgar speech. help! haha

I would start with replacing the capacitors. It will only take an hour or so. Are you ok with soldering?

#28 4 years ago

Whether you order from K's or https://www.bigdaddy-enterprises.com/ -- be sure and get a 40-pin interconnect kit along with it. Whether you do the work yourself, or a friend helps you -- you might as well have the parts on hand.

Also -- grab the power supply board kit.

Also -- it looks like for system 6 sound kits, there are two options, make sure you get the right kit for your board.

-mof

#29 4 years ago
Quoted from mof:

be sure and get a 40-pin interconnect kit along with it.

Good point. Go ahead and read through Vid's Sys6 guide and plan on doing all of that at some point.

#30 4 years ago

The coil sleeves on all the coils in the photos look like they need some serious cleaning.
I suggest you install new coil sleeves on all coils and clean the plungers.
Check associated moving parts to make sure they are OK and clean/replace as necessary.
A flipper rebuild kit will have everything that you need in one package, but there is a significant price difference for all the parts.
Check all the diodes on those coils while you do that and replace as necessary.
Coil sleeves and diodes are cheap and will likely make things work better.

#31 4 years ago

It looks like from the picture of the sound board that DS1 dip switches are both on. These control sound and speech. Did you try setting them to off and then back to on? Could be an in-between state? Just something to try. Flip them to the right and then back to the left to make sure the dip switch is set.
Good luck.

#32 4 years ago
Quoted from Enaud:

It looks like from the picture of the sound board that DS1 dip switches are both on. These control sound and speech. Did you try setting them to off and then back to on? Could be an in-between state? Just something to try. Flip them to the right and then back to the left to make sure the dip switch is set.
Good luck.

Good catch Enaud but this wasn't the fix unfortunately

#33 4 years ago

What was the sound like at the seller's house?
-mof

#34 4 years ago
Quoted from mof:

What was the sound like at the seller's house?
-mof

mof - speech only, no sound effects.

#35 4 years ago

Ah shit - now Gorgar speech ain't workin. This thing has a lot of problems! haha feeling a bit overwhelmed...

#36 4 years ago
Quoted from Steveoshoots:

This thing has a lot of problems! haha feeling a bit overwhelmed...

Everyone feels that way at the beginning. Take a breath, then start reading Vid's guide to bullet proofing system 6 machines. Start with what isn't working(the sound card), and repair that. Then move on. You'll get it.

#37 4 years ago

There's also good repair techs you can send your boards to if you don't feel you're ready to take on some of the work that may be involved. Chris Hibler here at pinside repairs boards. I've personally sent mine to the Coin Op Cauldron a few times, and there's many others as well. If you're gonna go that route, you may just want to send them all the boards at the same time and they can bulletproof and fix as needed so everything should be good to go when they're finished (as long as the rest of the game is ok). I personally prefer original boards over aftermarket, and these actually look to be in pretty nice shape. If you plan on keeping the game for a long time, it's worth investing in having these boards professionally fixed/bulletproofed. I love fixing my games, but i sent all the boards out for repair/bulletproofing on my first pin and 15+ years later they've given me very little trouble.

However, if you're up to the task, ThatOneDude's suggestion is right on the money: Vid's guides should have all the info you need to make it happen (or at least provide a good starting point). Plus there's tons of great techs here that are willing to help you along the way (as you see here in this thread )...

Good luck!

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